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• how did my laptop lose daylight savings time on power loss?

  - by EndangeringSpecies

  it was an old laptop that may or may not have dead CMOS battery (at least it had time reset to 0 when I dusted it off). So, it was plugged into power for awhile without the main battery and the clock was correct. Then there was a power outage. When I subsequently turned it on, surprise-surprise, it had one hour off correct time. So the clock apparently kept running during the outage, but daylight savings time info vanished (from disk? where is it stored?) How come?

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• Should laptops remain plugged in when their battery is 100% charged?

  - by Click Upvote

  I've been hearing mixed responses to this, so would like to hear the final answer. When your laptop's battery is 100% charged, should you leave it plugged in so any battery power doesn't get used, or will that cause overcharging, overheating. etc? Should the laptop be unplugged when battery is 100%? I'm asking because my laptop's screen tends to get dim when unplugged, so I don't like to run it on battery. (Any fixes to this would also be helpful.)

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• Could I replace a stock PSU fan with a more quiet one?

  - by GaryJL

  I have a cheap 450W PSU with an exhaust fan at the rear. This fan, however, is very loud. Is it a good idea to replace the stock PSU fan with a quiet fan with similar airflow? The PSU fan is hard-wired to the PCB in the PSU so I was intending on snipping the stock fan wires and sealing the loose ends with electrical tape. I would then connect the new quiet fan to the PWR_FAN socket on the motherboard. Has anyone done this before themselves? Is it a good idea in the first place? Considering if my PSU fails, it could take out a couple of other components too.

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• DELL Inspiron N 5050 doesn't Power On until I Plug-in the Charger

  - by hannanessay

  I bought a Dell Inspiron N 5050 last week, and recently discovered a problem with my laptop. It doesn't Power On until and unless I Plug-in the charger. After I plug-in the charger, it boots up fine, and continues to work well after disconnecting the charger. I don't know what the problem is exactly? I was planning to contact Customer Care, but I wanted to know if I could fix it myself. Please help!

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• Computer wont start, just blinks on and off

  - by Ryan

  This is really strange. I had a comp that was working fine for over a year, then suddenly it started to shut off, it got so bad that I press the power button and in around 30 secs while booting windows it would shut off, then 20 secs... then 10 secs, then it refused to start all together. So I bought a new PSU (850w Thermaltake, the old one was 550w corsair) thinking that was the problem, I fitted the new PSU now and its the same thing, I press the power button and my fans start for a split second (they have led lights on them, so the lights come on) and then everything goes off again. I thought maybe it was my power button that was loose on my comp, luckily I had another chassis near by so I disconnected the powerSW from the old one and put ran the powerSW from the new chassis, press the power on the new chassis and same thing, it blinks for a split second and off again. Double checked connections from the PSU to the cpu power as well as board mobo power, its tight. It's pretty unlikely both the PSUs have the same exact problem so am lost... Suggestions?

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• Will an Australian power adapter with an American plug charge a Laptop safely?

  - by leeand00

  A friend of mine has a laptop that she brought from Egypt to America, and she is afraid to charge it. She told me the laptop was purchased in Australia and it has a plug like this: And the power adapter reads The relevant text on the power brick reads: Wide Range Input 100-240V-1.7A(1.7A) 50-60Hz 18.5(18.5V) = 3.5A(3.5A) 65W The other end of the power adapter looks like this: Laptop make and model: HP Pavilion dv5-1045TX

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• Which PSU should one chose? The biggest is the best?

  - by Shiki

  I'm fully aware of PSU's "Active PFC" and that they won't consume the written W all the time. (Makes sense). But now I'm before a PSU replacement (Guys: NEVER buy a Chieftec. Seriously.) The question is: If one can get a bigger one (in my case 750W and 650W) ... should that person go for the bigger one ? (The difference in price is not much). No, I don't think I'll soon use all that much. (Please help (if you want of course) to make the question more generic if the question is really not OK in this form. I've been wondering about this for a time already. In my case it would be XFX Black Edition Silver 750W and 650W) (Basically about "which one" I would go with XFX/Antec/something which comes with industry qualified parts. Like Duracell but in a PSU. :) But the performance is a different thing.)

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• does leaving the laptop cord in break the cord?

  - by firedrake

  i recently got a new cord for my laptop because the cord i had before broke.im not sure how it got messed up, but one moment it charged my laptop and the next moment it didn't. i then got a new cord. the new cord worked perfectly fine until now, and it has only been a month. the cord wont work unless i am pressing it into the socket, which i am currently doing. the only thing i can find in common with the cords is that i leave them plugged in 24/7. my brother says that is the problem, but i do not think it is.any tips or hints? im going to use duct tape to keep the pressure on the cord till i can find a better solution(im also thinking it could be the hole i plug it into on the back of my computer, but im focusing on the other idea for now.if i wiggle the plug part in the socket of my computer it will stop charging unless im pressing it in or to the side) any help or ideas are appreciated. not sure if this will help but i use a gateway with windows vista. thanks

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• Re-cased my computer now the power plug keeps shorting

  - by dunc

  I've just re-cased my computer. I got the new case free and thought I'd be able to swap everything over myself but apparently I've done something wrong. I'm OK with components generally but wasn't totally confident about doing this. So, my question is, when setting up a new PC or moving old components into a new case, what could I have done which causes the power cable plug to short/fuse when I plug it in?. Is this likely to be an issue with the cables from my PSU, or could it be the internal case connectors? What steps would you take to diagnose the problem? I'd rather not start again if I don't have to...! Thanks in advance,

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• How to fix Asus Eee PC 900 startup issues after failure?

  - by EBrown

  My Asus Eee PC 900 shows no signs of life. I push the power button and get no response from anything. No lights, no power, no boot-up screen. It has been like this since I received it from a friend. I asked her what happened and she said that smoke came from the keyboard, it shut down and hasnt turned on since. I have tried removing and cleaning the RAM, the computer charger still connects and works, but the battery receives no charge and the computer won't power on. Any ideas as to what is going on?

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• (Why) are IEC C5/C6 connectors a necessity? Why not use C13/C14?

  - by Mike

  That's a question I was asking myself the first time I saw such a weird C5 plug. That was a while ago, but I came across it again and haven't found an answer yet. The only thing I could find out is that C5 is with 2.5A and C13 with 10A. But I guess it would technically be no problem building an AC adapter (e.g. for laptops) in which you plug the far more common C13 connector. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEC_connector

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• DH61AG's mythical 2 pin 19v power socket and is too low of votage bad?

  - by Nick Orton

  I have an intel dh61ag motherboard. It has an external 19v power adapter. It also has a 1x2 pin 19VDC internal power connector. Now I cannot find a psu or adapter or anything that will plug into this. In an intel forum, one person said that he plugged half of a 2x2 psu connector in and it worked. Since this would deliver 12v into a socket that asks for 19v, I suspect that this is a bad idea. I don't know much about hardware. Can anyone explain to me why this would be a bad idea?

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• Using a 20V power block on a 19V notebook

  - by user4444

  Is that dangerous : for the computer (without the battery) for the cells If possible, explain why. Edit : Here are some more assumptions : Without the battery included, there is no risk of overheating the cell, or over charging them. But there is still some dc to dc conversion taking place on the motherboard. I assume this dc to dc stage to be quite tolerant. What kind of trouble can I run into when using 20V instead of 19V ? Overheating ?

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• Which PSU should I chose? The biggest is the best?

  - by Shiki

  I'm fully aware of PSU's "Active PFC" and that they won't consume the written W all the time. (Makes sense). But now I'm before a PSU replacement (Guys: NEVER buy a Chieftec. Seriously.) The question is: If one can get a bigger one (in my case 750W and 650W) ... should that person go for the bigger one ? (The difference in price is not much). No, I don't think I'll soon use all that much. (Help (if you want of course) to make the question more generic if the question is really not OK in this form. I've been wondering about this for a time already. In my case it would be XFX Black Edition Silver 750W and 650W)

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• Can I copy a cross compiler tool chain between systems (I did before)?

  - by Jamie

  I tested fairly extensively with Ubuntu 10.04 Beta 2 Server in a VM, and was able to simply copy (read tar x) a cross compiled tool chain from an Ubuntu 8.10 VM. I created the tar myself, which is essentially a lot of stuff in \usr\local. Now that I've got a bare metal installation of Ubuntu 10.04 proper, the copy isn't working. In particularly, I'm getting the error: $ arm-linux-gcc -bash: /usr/local/bin/arm-linux-gcc: No such file or directory I've got the systems side by side in SSH windows ... any suggestions?

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• PC doesn't POST with a certain model of PSU

  - by Core Xii

  I have this PC with an Asus P5N32-E SLI motherboard and an Intel Q6600 CPU. I got a new RX-5300 PSU, but it didn't work. The motherboard power LED is on fine When I switch power on, the PC powers up briefly (0.5-1 sec) then shuts down From there on out when I switch power on, it stays on, all fans and components seem to be receiving power, but the motherboard won't POST. No video output, no PC speaker beeps, nothing If I turn the hard switch on the PSU off and then back on again, go to step 2; The PC turns on and then off immediately again, and on subsequent power-ups it stays on but won't POST I disconnected every component but the motherboard, CPU and PSU. Still nothing. I tried three other models of PSU on this PC, both of higher (600) and lower (<300) wattage than the 530 on the RX-5300 and they all work fine. At this point I was convinced the PSU was faulty so I returned it. When the replacement arrived, it behaved exactly the same. So two different units of RX-5300 both with the same symptoms, neither working with this motherboard + CPU. Yet, three other models of PSU work perfectly fine. The PC store couldn't reproduce my problem with the returned PSU. I tried resetting the CMOS with the jumper. I tried with both the 4 and 4+4 (with and without the extra +4 connected) CPU connectors (curiously the RX-5300 comes equipped with both). Could it be a statistical probability that I get two units of the same model of PSU that are faulty in the exact same manner? Could the RX-5300 model itself be somehow incompatible with this motherboard? I was under the impression that PSUs were pretty much universal so long as you have the wattage. Could the motherboard be broken in some such a way as to work with certain PSUs but not others? What's going on here?

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• Is it ok to remove a laptop battery while the laptop is running on AC power?

  - by Lynx

  I have a charged laptop battery in a laptop that is running on AC power and charging the battery. Would it damage the battery if I remove it while the computer is running?

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• What power cord does a WD16001032 hard drive use?

  - by llcf

  I have a Western Digital 160GB My Book USB external hard drive (WD16001032), but I can't find its power cord (or, at least, figure out which one it is in my box of cords). It might be that only one power cord would fit, but I'm a bit cautious since I just tried one of the cords with a router and could smell electronics burning when I used an incorrect one. What voltage/amps are needed for this drive? I can't find specs on Western Digital's site. I'm assuming this is due to it being an older drive.

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• Pc sometimes turns on sometimes not

  - by cprogcr

  Some time ago, the PC gave the same problem. It wouldn't turn on. When i pressed the button, it turned on but showed nothing. I had replaced the CPU and that seemed to work. I didn't use the PC that much, rarely you know. But now, after some time, it gives the same problem. It turns on, the front light is on, it makes the normal noise the pc makes when it's turned on , but if I try to shut it down by holding the power button it just doesn't work. So again, I tried replacing the CPU and it worked again. I kept it all day working, just to be sure, and sometimes I would restart it and it would work again. No problems at all. So I turned it off at night, and next morning it just would make the same problem. So I tried replacing the PSU. And it worked again. Now while I had the PC with the new PSU, i tried to insert the old CPU, and again, it would turn on. The same thing, tried restarting too, and it would work. But this morning the same problem happened. Edit: I also tried another CPU today and yet no signs of working. I don't know now what to think.

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• My computer makes weird sounds that you can only hear through a speaker

  - by Mury

  I recently got a brand new computer. Everything was fine until I plugged my electric guitar into my amp. When I switch on my guitar amp (guitar speaker) I can hear a weird noise. It sounds like the noise that that goes through your speakers when you put your mobile phone next to it. There is nothing wrong with my guitar or guitar amp and I didn't have any similar problems with my old computer. Can anyone help me?

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• computer randomly restarting. both in game and out of game

  - by eric

  first my specs are. AMD Phenom II x4 955 processor 3.2ghz 20gb ddr3 ram 4Gb Nvidia Geforce GTX 770 850w Corsair tx850w psu Gigabyte ud3 mobo Windows 7 professional I recently uprgraded my vid card to gtx770 and upgraded my psu to the 850w thats in it now. i did a reformat with the installation of the new gpu and psu and started fresh and only have a couple programs installed (diablo3, nvidia control panel, wow, and steam). all drivers are up to date and everything is hooked up correctly. the problem is it will randomly shut down. no blue screen. just turns itself straight off and reboots after a couple seconds. occasionally i will have to unplug the power cable from the psu for a few minutes then reconnect and it will start up. it seems pretty random. sometimes it does it when my pc is just sitting there on the home screen. and sometimes it does it during games. and sometimes it doesnt do it for days at a time. i noticed the psu felt hot so i put an extra fan blowing straight onto both the psu and gpu and neither feel overly hot after it shuts down now. could it just be that it is a psu problem. the psu was taken from another machine but wasnt having this problem in that machine. i have seen a few articles online about gtx770 doing the same thing. but i havent found any answers or solutions. any help will be appreciated. im sure the 850w is enough to power my machine, im just stumped and ran out of ideas to fix it. i have even returned the video card for another thinking it might have been an issue with that particular card, but still gettin the same problem.

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• Using a 20V power block on a 19V notebook

  - by user4444

  Is that dangerous : for the computer (without the battery) for the cells If possible, explain why. Edit : Here are some more assumptions : Without the battery included, there is no risk of overheating the cell, or over charging them. But there is still some dc to dc conversion taking place on the motherboard. I assume this dc to dc stage to be quite tolerant. What kind of trouble can I run into when using 20V instead of 19V ? Overheating ?

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• No SATA drives after PSU Upgrade

  - by hauptbenutzer

  I know this sounds a lot like this but I just confirmed that my MBR is fine as well as the SSD drive in question. What happened: I upgraded my be-quiet 700w PSU to the 1000w dark power pro. When I tried booting the system and none of the drives (all SATA) were detected, resulting in the "Boot device failure" error. After that I unplugged all but the boot drive, triple checked that all cables were in fact nice and tight inside their sockets, replaced both e-SATA and power cables ; still with the same outcome. Finally I reconnected my old PSU and sure enough the PC booted without any hassle (except of course for the direful construction that is currently occupying my desk). Does anybody have any advice on how to proceed? Surely, it is possible the PSU is faulty but are there other explanations? Thanks in advance PS. if of any help: Motherboard is GIGABYTE GA-PH67A-UD3-B3 H67 LGA 1155

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• Computer will freeze/ lock up after doing relatively stressful things

  - by GrowingCode247

  I'll first start off by saying that the issue GENERALLY doesn't occur unless I'm doing something remotely stressful for my computer. This issue used to occur whenever it felt it was necessary, however has not occurred completely randomly for a while now (thankfully) My computer's specs: CPU: AMD Phenom II X4 960T GPU: GeForce GTX 760 Memory: 16 GB RAM Resolution Used: 1680x1050, 59Hz (strange number for refresh rate?) res is highest for monitor Nvidia Driver version: 331.65 OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate (64-bit) Sometimes I will be able to go 2-3 games (about an hour, depending) and sometimes it will go maybe one game (20-30 minutes) and then my computer will run sluggishly and leave me unable to do much of anything. I can sometimes interact with programs at a very basic level (maximizing, minimizing), and I usually cannot close them in any way, not even through Task Manager. The highest temperature my GPU reaches is 76C, with the average being around 73C. During the time the temperatures are around 73C, my GPU's RAM usage is anywhere between 1250-1300 (out of 2GB). My CPU's temperature never goes over 60C, thankfully. The PSU should be fine. It's very mildly dusty but I feel as though that would not be causing this problem... I will clean it out as soon as everything else has been ruled out. Honestly I have no clue how to test the PSU for problems - same goes for my Motherboard. I cannot really think of what could be causing these freezes otherwise. Event Viewer details: EventID: 1 - VDS Basic Provider (I've no clue what this is) EventID: 3 - Kernel-EventTracing (Again, lost) EventID: 8003 - bowser (this seems fishy) and the one critical that I know others have been dealing with as I've browsed some other responses on the web: EventID: 41 - Kernel-Power any help to solve this problem would be GREATLY appreciated.

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• Any reasonable UPS for a Desktop PC, just to shut it down?

  - by Michael Stum

  While I do have a surge protector to protect against overvoltage (hopefully), I have nothing against undervoltage. When a lightning storm hits, I had the lights flickering at some point. The PC continued to run, but it got me thinking of getting a UPS as a way to a) have a clean 120V/60Hz power source and b) have a way to shut down the PC in case something bad happens. I heard not all UPS' protect against power spikes, so I wonder if someone has a recommendation? It does not need to keep the PC on for a long time if the power goes out, it's good enough if it shuts down the PC after 5 minutes or so. There are 2 PCs connected. One is a Core i7-860 with a Radeon 5870 running Windows 7 Ultimate (so quite power hungry. It uses a 600W PSU but I have no measurements of the actual usage), the other one is a Windoes Home Server, running WHS/Windows Server 2003. Any recommendations in the low-price segment?

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