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  • How to load kernel from live cd on UEFI install of Ubuntu 12.10?

    - by Geezanansa
    Running a GYGABYTE FM1 motherboard which is using a AMD 3870k APU with a new WS Caviar 1TB HDD. Following the advice in the Motherboard manual and https://help.ubuntu.com/community/UEFI have now got to grub screen for UEFI install. The dvd.iso being used is Ubuntu 12.10 desktop amd64. The hdd has had a gpt partition table made for, by using gparted when in a live desktop session(booted in bios mode)but decided to leave it unformatted with the intention of using installer to set up partitions. Booting live dvd gives grub list with the option to "install ubuntu" but get "can not read cd/0" and "the kernel must be loaded first" errors; when that option is selected. Any pointers on how to get installer going for UEFI install would be good. Thanks in advance.

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  • My Windows 7 is getting the "An error occurred. Press control+alt+del" message on boot

    - by Maxrunner
    So I upgraded my ubuntu to 12.10 but the Windows 7 problem seems to have happened not after doing the upgrade but later. I am not sure. Ubuntu is running fine, but how can I recover my Windows7? I tried running BootRepair in Ubuntu but it keeps scanning system endlessly... If I recover Windows with the Windows DVD I assume I will lose the GRUB menu and then not possible to start Ubuntu. How do i then proceed to recover the GRUB? Can I recover using the Ubuntu DVD?

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  • Grub rescue doesn't allow me to boot from LIVE CD/USB

    - by Thameem
    I used to have Windows Vista & Ubuntu 12.04 on dual boot. Accidentally, I deleted the Linux partition and landed on Grub rescue on the next boot. The tricky thing for me here is I have been trying to boot through LIVE CD/USB of the ubunutu version, other linux versions but in vain. What happens is, it appears as if it reads the CD/DVD drive or the USB flashes for a while when trying to boot through LIVE versions but the Grub rescue appears after a while. The only option I could think here is to remove the hard disk and connect to the other laptop I have through USB and reinstall a fresh OS. Please suggest me a way to boot through the DVD/USB again. My laptop is Sony VAIO CR32 series.Thanks.

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  • Ubuntu 12.04 installation CD is not booting?

    - by vinodk89
    I am using Ubuntu 8.10 and want to upgrade it to 12.04. I have downloaded 12.04 from the Ubuntu site and burned as ISO image CD in a DVD (because it is 701.3MB). When I insert this DVD into my drive for installation, it does not boot. A blank black screen appears. In 8.10 when I click on update to 9.04 it shows some error. Ubuntu 8.10 is not as good as 12.04. Please friends help me to solve this problem. I want to install Ubuntu 12.04 in my pc.

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  • Remove ubuntu when it's the only OS on the machine

    - by Frances
    I've been trying for hours to remove ubuntu 12 which is the only OS on my laptop. I don't have a Windows installation there. I've followed various bits of help, including trying to get boot-repair to work (I just get error messages when I try to run the recommended commands). Please can someone tell me how to get rid of ubuntu? It won't recognise my .iso copy of Windows - tries to read the DVD and then just boots ubuntu anyway. The DVD is fine - I can use it on other computers and it's perfectly OK. Frances

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  • PC powers off at random times

    - by Timo Huovinen
    Short Version After experiencing some problems with Mobo batteries my PC started to power off at random times, the power off is instant and sudden and does not restart afterwards, need help figuring out the cause. Facts: Powers off when PC is playing games Powers off when PC is idle Powers off when PC is in safe mode Powers off when PC is in BIOS Powers off when PC is booted through a Windows installation USB Replaced the motherboard battery several times Replaced the 650W PSU with a 750W PSU Replaced the RAM Swapped the RAM between slots Re-applied thermal paste to the CPU Checked if the motherboard touches the case Nothing is overclocked PC Specs PC specs: OS: Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 RAM: klingston 1333MHz 4GB stick CPU: AMD Phenom II x4 955 Mobo: Gigabyte 88GMA-UD2H rev 2.2 Motherboard battery: CR2032 3v HDD: 500GB Seagate ST3500418AS ATA Device Graphics: ATI/AMD Radeon HD 6870 Very Long version Around 10 months ago I built a brand new gaming PC. Around 6 months ago it's time setting in windows started resetting to the year 2010. I swapped the Motherboard battery for a new one of the exact same size and shape and voltage, and the problems disappeared...for around 2 weeks. Then the same problem happened again, time gets reset, I swapped the battery again, and the problem was gone for good and everything was great for about 3 months.. then another problem started happening, the PC started to power off suddenly and without warning at completely random times, sometimes the PC works for and hour, sometimes 5 minutes. So I read on the forums that it might be either the PSU or the motherboard Battery or RAM or HDD or the Graphics card or the CPU or the motherboard or the drivers or a Virus or Grounding issues, or something short circuiting, basically it can be anything... I spent some days researching, and decided to remove the possibility of a virus. I reset the CMOS, cleared all BIOS settings and reinstalled windows 7 after a full format of the HDD, but the random power off kept happening. I then disabled the restart on error option in windows and looked at the event log for error events, but they did not help me figure out the problem. Network list service depends on network location awareness the dependency group failed to start Source Kernel Power Event 41 Task Category 63 Source Disk Event ID 11 Task Category None The driver detected a controller error on device disk I took apart the PC, every little piece, re-applied some expensive thermal paste to the CPU, and double checked that none of the pieces are touching the PC case. The problem was gone, the PC no longer powered off randomly I re-attached the graphics card and all was good for 4 months... then the power off problem appeared again, but was happening at high intervals, the PC would shutdown once in 2 days on average, at random points in time, sometimes when it's idle all day long, sometimes when it's running CRYSIS 2. I checked the CPU temperature, because I know that AMD CPU's have a built in protection mechanism that switches off the PC if the CPU gets too hot, and the Temp was 50C system temp, and 45C CPU after running the PC all day long (I did not do tests to see if there are any temperature spikes, don't know how to do them) Originally the PSU that powered the PC was 650Watts and had one 4 pin cable to power the CPU, I replaced it with a new 750Watts PSU which has two 4 pin cables for the CPU, but the problem remained. I removed the graphics card and let the motherboard use the built in one, but the PC kept suddenly powering off at random times. I took apart the PC completely again, and re-applied thermal paste to the CPU, added lots of insulation, and checked for any type of short-circuit possibility again and again, but the problem remained. The problem was like that for some months. I replaced the Battery a couple of times over the time, changed lots of options in windows, and tried everything I could, but it kept powering off, so I stopped using the PC as much as I used to, just living with the random power offs from time to time, until a couple of days ago, when the power off happens almost immediately after powering on the PC. I replaced the RAM with a brand new one, but that did not help. Took apart the PC again, checked for anything anywhere that might cause it, found some small scratches on the very edge of the motherboard to the left of the PCI express x16 slot. This might cause the problem, I thought, but the scratch looks very superficial, not deep at all, and if the scratch did harm the motherboard, wouldn't it cause it to not start at all? And why did it start to power off a while ago, and then suddenly stop powering off? The scratches could not have vanished??? did chkdsk \d but it powered off when it was at 75% I removed the hard disks, the graphics card, while I fiddled with the BIOS settings, and suddenly the PC shut down while I was looking at the BIOS version. This makes me realize, it is not caused by: HDD, Windows, Drivers or the Graphics card I cleared the CMOS again, updated the BIOS from F5 to F6f beta, but that did not help, it might even seem that the PC powers off even sooner. The shutdown even happened to me while I booted through a windows 7 installation USB and was in the repair console. I removed one of the cables powering the CPU, now only one 4pin cable powers it, and it worked for 30mins after doing that, which makes me think that it's the CPU overheating, and because it gets less power, it overheats slower? The things that I am still considering: CPU overheating (does not seem to overheat, maybe false readings?) Motherboard short circuiting (faulty motherboard?) I desperately need some advice in what is faulty, is it a faulty Motherboard or an overheating CPU? or maybe something else? I have been breaking my head over this problem over a span of 6 months. I'm not sure if this is a good place to ask this question, if it is not, then tell me where I can get some experienced help. More info I have also discovered a mysterious piece that seems to have fallen out of the motherboard i119.photobucket.com/albums/o126/yurikolovsky/strangepiece.jpg What is it? Looks like each time that it powers off the datetime gets reset I also found another forum post tomshardware.co.uk/forum/… except I don't have Integrated PeripheralsUSB Keyboard Function option in BIOS :S Comments summary (asked by Random moderator) Q. tell me, if the computer restarts, is it immediately? Does it take a second and then restarts? Do you see (BSOD) or hear (PSU, short circuit) any suspicious when it happens? After reading trough it, it remains the mainboard that is faulty. – JohannesM A. Immediate power off, all the fans stop instantly, all the light turn off instantly, no sound or anything, and it remains off until I turn it back on. Thanks for the feedback, faulty motherboard is what I fear. Q. Try stress-testing the system with Prime95 and see if errors or shutdowns occur when the CPU is under full load. – speakr A. Prime95 heat stress test peaked CPU heat at 60C after 5mins, it powered off after 30mins of testing in the middle of the test with no errors, Prime95 Heat test or the stress-testing with low RAM usage (small or in-place FFTs) do not report errors while testing for 10-60 mins. The power off does not seem like it is affected by Prime95 at all Makes me wonder if it's a CPU or Motherboard issue at all. Q. I had similar random/intermittent problems with my old board. It gave one of a few different symptoms: keyboard and/or mouse would die and/or the RAM wouldn't work and/or it would shut down. It was in bad shape. One problems was that my old PSU had literally burned the connector on it (browned around the pins), another was that a broken lead inside the layers of the PCB would work sometimes if it happened to be hot or if I bent the board—by jamming a hunk of wood behind it. I managed to keep the board alive for several years, but eventually nothing I did would make it work correctly anymore. – Synetech A. I will try that as the last resort, ok? ;) Q. Have you tried a different power cord, surge protector, outlet (on a different circuit). It's worth a shot just to ensure it's not subpar wiring or a week circuit (dips in power may cause shutdown if the PSU can't pull enough juice from the wall). – Kyle A. yes, I attached the PC to an entirely different outlet on a different circuit and the problem persists. After connecting it to a different outlet after starting the PC it gave me 3 long beeps and 1 short one, then the PC immediately proceeded to boot up normally. Q. Re-check your mainboard manual and all PSU connections to your mainboard to be sure that nothing is missing (e.g. 12V ATX 4-pin/6-pin connector). If you can provoke shutdowns with Prime95, then consider buying new hardware -- a stable system should run Prime95 for 24h without any errors. Prime95 mentions errors in the log when they occur and gives a summary after the stress test was stopped manually (e.g. "0 errors, 0 warnings", if all is fine) – speakr A. Re-checked, there are no more PSU connectors that I can physically connect, except the one ATX 4-pin (there are 2 that power the CPU) that I disconnected on purpose, I have reconnected it but the problem persists. Q. With one PC I had a short curcuit. The power button on the front plate had its cables soldered, but not isolated, and the contacts were very close to the metal case. A heavier touch was enough to cause a shutdown. The PC's vibration could be enough – ott-- A. yes, it seems to switch off with even the lightest touch, I switched on the PC, then pulled out the front panel power cable that connects to the motherboard so the power button does not work anymore, after 5 mins of working like that, with the power button completely disconnected, just sitting idle, the PC powered off again, I don't think it's the power button. Q. I wonder if you dare to operate components without the case, that is remove motherboard, power, disk ( just put the motherboard on a wooden desk). Don't bend the adapters when running like that. – ott-- A. yes, I do dare to do that, but only tomorrow, too tired/late right now.

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  • Ripping CD Audio simultaneously from 2 drives on one PC via USB or PATA - rip accuracy preserved?

    - by Rob
    I'm considering ripping audio (reading audio) from CDs using 2 drives simultaneously to speed up the process of ripping the CDs - i.e. 2 at a time rather than 1. Are there any issues with achieving maximum rip accuracy? In general I wondered if people have tried this and if the simultaneous streams from both rip activities would overload the host machine and cause packet loss or read retries resulting in a sub-standard CD-DA Audio CD rip? If it just means the rip is slightly slower (but still faster than sequentially doing one rip followed by another) but still of maximum accuracy then that is OK for me. I will be using dbPowerAmp to rip the CDs and converting to FLAC lossless format. Specific examples: There are 2 machines I intend to do it on: A Toshiba NB100 1.6Ghz Atom netbook, 2Gb RAM, running Windows XP Home with 1 external LG DVD/CD burner and external 1 LG Blu-ray burner attached via USB 2.0, ripping to the machine's 5400rpm internal hard drive. This rips from one CD drive very well, more than adequate, it is a nippy, fast little machine for its specification. A Desktop PC running Windows 7 Home Premium with MSI P4M900M2-L/ MS-7255v2.0 motherboard and 1.86Ghz Intel Core 2 Duo E6320, 7200rpm hard drive and 2Gb RAM, with an internal LG PATA DVD/CD burner (master) and a Philips DVD/CD burner (slave) on the same PATA bus (perhaps separate buses would be another option to consider here). Thoughts?

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  • Can I have a single solid state drive and a RAID array on the same machine?

    - by jaminto
    Hi- To summarize, i'm looking to use a single solid state drive as my primary drive, and two conventional sata drives in a RAID 1 configuration for data. I am trying to install 64-bit Windows 7 onto this configuration. Is this possible? Here are the details: I built a desktop that has been running 64-bit Vista on two 500Gb in a RAID 1 array for a few years. I just purchased an Intel X25-M 80Gb Sata Solid-State Drive, and was planning on using this a my primary drive, and keeping the RAID 1 array as my data drive. I added the SSD drive and in the RAID setup, configured it as a RAID 0 array of only one disk. Then, I tried to do a clean install of windows 7 64-bit, but got stuck in the "Missing driver for CD/DVD drive" black hole of selecting driver files and Windows telling me that i don't have the appropriate driver for my hardware. The missing hardware is NOT a CD/DVD drive, since i'm installing off of my only CD/DVD drive. Plus at one point i was able to point it at a driver for my raid controller, and then my hard drives magically showed up as browsable sources for finding drivers for some other unnamed device that setup couldn't recognize. After a few hours of trying drivers (this was a very slow process) i decided to reboot and look at the BIOS settings. I'm using an ASUS M2A-VM motherboard which has an ATI SB600 RAID controller on board. I switched the "On board SATA Type" setting from "SATA" to "AHCI" thinking that since AHCI is an Intel thing, this would help. Unfortunately, this abandoned my RAID configuration, and my previously mirrored drives are showing up as separate drives when i boot into my current windows installation. Am i trying to do the impossible here? Should i just buy a separate SATA/RAID PCI card and plug the SSD into that? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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  • How to disable auto insert notification in Windows 7?

    - by White Phoenix
    Alright, here's the problem. My hard drive activity light on my custom built PC is blinking exactly once every second. Microsoft has this to say on the issue: http://support.microsoft.com/kb/138598 There has been discussion on this issue several months ago: Why does my hard drive LED light blink every second? The problem seems to stem from primarily Windows 7 polling the CD-ROM/DVD drive every second to see if something is inserted. The Windows 7 users in the thread that was linked in the superuser question, https://social.technet.microsoft.com/Forums/fi-FI/w7itprohardware/thread/4f6f63b3-4b58-4154-9298-1566100f9d00, have confirmed that this IS a known issue with Windows 7. Some people point at the motherboard circuitry causing the CD-ROM and SATA activity to both be linked to that hard drive activity, but whatever the case, the temporary solution seems to be to disable the CD/DVD-ROM drive in Device Manager. In fact, disabling the CD/DVD-ROM does stop the blinking, but of course this solution is counterproductive, because I shouldn't have to entirely disable a device to fix this problem. I've done the following suggestions in that thread: Change the autorun registry entry to 0 Completely disable autoplay in the autoplay control panel Disable autoplay in the Local Group Policy Editor. None of these stop the blinking from happening - apparently these solutions work for both XP and Vista, but it seems to be different in Windows 7. So I'm wondering if anyone has found out how to completely disable the polling in Windows 7, or if this will just have to be an issue we will have to deal with. There's no option to disable the auto insert notification when you go to the device within device manager (there was in XP), so I got no idea where this option is hidden, or if there's a registry key entry I could change to stop the polling. Anyone have any idea?

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  • Why my hard disk can't boot from the BIOS?

    - by Mario
    I installed a new sata DVD burner. When I turned on the machine (windows 7) it didn't boot. It can boot from a lubuntu CD. There is an option on lubuntu to boot form the first hard disk. If I select it, the machine boots normally to windows 7. So from the CD I can boot but not from the BIOS. I checked all the options more than once: boot from HD, not boot from removable, boot from USB, boot from optical. The order of the boot sequence is HD then DVD. I tried booting only with the HD; I disconnected both DVDs. I even tried recovery of the MBR: bootsect, bootrec, fixmbr, buildbcd, nt60, etc. So, the question is, does this have a reason, what's the difference between booting from the BIOS (as I think) to from the DVD?. The BIOS is intel, it has BIOS codes on the right bottom corner, it stays at 5A for a while. 5A is "Resetting PATA/SATA bus and all devices".

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  • Best way to convert episodic DVDs for Windows Media Center?

    - by Roger Lipscombe
    I'm archiving my DVD collection. My goal is to be able to play them back in Windows Media Center. For feature-length DVDs, I'm using AnyDVD and CloneDVD, which is working well. For playing back TV shows (and other episodic content), I'm using Media Browser, which doesn't support a VIDEO_TS folder per episode. It expects the shows to be broken up into one file per episode (e.g. "Willo the Wisp - S01E12.avi"). For this, I'm attempting to use Handbrake, which, for extracting the episodes from DVD (or already-ripped VIDEO_TS folder), is working pretty well. The problem that I have is that the default x264 encoder over-compresses the resulting video stream, which results in hideous artifacts in animated shows. The aforementioned Willo the Wisp is a particularly bad example, because the original DVD is particularly "noisy". If I switch to using the ffmpeg encoder, the artifacts are gone in Windows Media Player, but I can't get the resulting files to play back in Windows Media Center. I see the first frame, and then there's an error message. I've installed the CCCP codec collection, but it doesn't seem to have made any difference. So: what's the best way to convert VIDEO_TS to individual episode files for playback in Windows Media Center?

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  • Slow boot for OS and external devices

    - by Derek Van Cuyk
    I have been having this problem intermittently but as of yesterday, it has become more consistent. It originally started when I rebooted my PC at home and the OS (Windows 8) sat in a loop appearing to do nothing while loading. I figured since this was a new installation, that something may have just become corrupted and I decided to reinstall. So I tried to boot off of the thumb drive which had the installation iso and encountered pretty much the same issue. Same with the DVD drive. So, I rebooted once again and left it to load the entire night just to see if it ever would and sure enough this morning, Windows had finally loaded. Authentication had the same roblem albeit not quite as long (took about 5 minutes to authenticate). However, once I was in, everything appeared to be working fine and as quick as normal with the exception of when I tried to scan the C drive for any errors, which ran unbearably slow (45 minutes and before I left for work and was not finished scanning a 64GB SSD drive). I mention that I have had this issue but never when loading the OS. Before it occurred when trying to install windows 7 from a different DVD drive than the one I have now. It took me about 3 hours to do it since I had to wait sometimes 30+ min for each step to finish processing. Does anyone have an idea as to what can cause this? I am assuming it is the motherboard since it is responsible for communication with all the devices I'm having issues with but I cannot find anyone else who has had a problem like this and don't want to drop more money on a MB if it isn't the problem. Hardware: Motherboard: Asus M4A78T-E Socket AM3/ AMD 790GX/ Hybrid CrossFireX Hard Drive: Kingston SSDNow V+180 64GB Micro SATA II 3GB/S 1.8 Inch Solid State Drive SVP180S2/64G Optical Drive: Samsung Blu-Ray Combo Internal 12XReadable and DVD-Writable Drive with Lightscribe SH-B123L/BSBP Thanks, Derek

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  • CDROM does not appear on desktop, MACOS 10.5.7

    - by Cheeso
    When I pop a CDROM into the drive of my Macbook Pro, It spins up, I hear it, but no icon appears on the desktop. (I think it's 10.5.7; actually not sure how to verify this on Mac, but I think I saw a 10.5.7 flash by somewhere). In the finder preferences, I have "Show these items on the Desktop" set to show HDs, External Disks, and CDs, DVDs, and ipods. All three of those are checked. I do see the internal HD on the desktop. In Disk utility I can see the CD/DVD hardware. It says "MATSHITA DVD-R UJ-857E...". From Disk Utility I can eject the drive. But in Finder, there is never a CD/DVD listed under "Devices". When I insert a disk, nothing happens, I cannot see it. I also cannot boot from bootable CDROMs by holding C down . Suggestions? I am not very experienced with Mac; I have used Windows for years. EDIT Two updates: I saw this article on support.apple.com, and modified the hostconfig appropriately. It did not have the AUTODISKMOUNT entry, so I added one, rebooted. Same behavior. It does not see the CDROM in Finder, does not mount it on desktop. I put an old manufactured CDROM into the drive, and voila! it showed up on the desktop. The CD that does not appear is a GNome Partition Editor Live CD, which I guess is based on debian. That CD boots in other (non-Mac) PCs. I want to use this to adjust the Bootcamp partition. Suggestions?

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  • A driver (service) for this device has been disabled. Is how the code 32 starts off:

    - by E S
    A driver (service) for this device has been disabled. An alternate driver may be providing this functionality. (Code 32) No drive letter show in device manager, and the dvd/cd is now not useable because it is not seen. This all happened, when i starting using a new, external usb hard drive from Buffalo. I have win 7 64bit. Everything else looks to be working fine. I even out of desperation, tried to hook up, and external dvd that had worked fine in the past. Just too slow and ate up memory, so i never used it. It tries to use the same drives, and when you click to update drivers, it says this is the best one. HELP.... even if i wanted, (WHICH I DON'T), to use the factory win 7 re-installation dvd, how,lol. No drive to install it from in this situation. I am at a lose here, and Buffalo tec was of no help at all. Just said he could not help. Any help would be much appreciated.

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  • During Vista Repair - No operating system is listed.

    - by Jack Marchetti
    After a Windows update, my brother's Gateway computer loads to the "Step 3 of 3: 0%" and reboots. Safe Mode does not work. I placed a Vista DVD in the drive, and re-booted. (Note, this is my Vista DVD, not the Recovery/System disc that would come with a computer. Gateway does not give you CD's anymore. I believe they store recovery on a partition, but that partition has been wiped out). I chose "Repair Your Computer" I get a dialog box, but no operating system is listed. I'm then prompted to "Load Drivers". What drivers am I supposed to be loading here and where from? I placed a CD in the drive to "load drivers" but I don't see my DVD drive listed. All I saw where X:/Sources along with several Removable Media slots that were empty. On another screen I tried Startup Repair, which didn't do anything. I attempted to use System Restore - but it doesn't detect the hard drive. I'm guessing that I'm missing some sort of SATA driver and that is why the hard disk is not being found. Any ideas on this?

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  • Install Windows 7 from ISO image

    - by Albert
    Hi, I have an ISO file of the Windows 7 DVD and I want to install it on my PC which currently only runs Linux. I don't have any DVD drive. I have some unpartitioned space on one disk where I want to install it in. When I am doing this for Linux, I usually just create the partitions from the running system, format them, mount them, copy files over, chroot into it, setup the stuff and I can boot into it (or I use some of the uncountable available scripts which do exactly that automatically). However, I have no idea how to do the same thing with Windows. So far, I tried with VMware, i.e. I gave it direct full access to the disk where I want to install it in, installed it there, then tried to boot natively into it. The Windows logo showed up but after maybe 3 seconds or so, it crashes. Safe mode also crashes. I already expected that this probably would exactly behave the way it does right now because I have heard that Windows is quite sensible about hardware changes (i.e. the VMware hardware and the real hardware). However, how can I fix it now that it works? Or I could also just delete it again and try just over. But how exactly? I also searched for ways to boot directly into an ISO file. There seem to be ways to do that via GRUB (and maybe some additional boot loader), although quite complicated. I already tried one method (GRUB: map ...iso (hdX)), however, that didn't worked. Also, even if it does work, I will get into trouble when I boot into the newly installed Windows and it requests for the DVD (because it does that at the first boot into the new system). Seems all quite complicated. Isn't there some easy way like I would do it for Linux? Or what would be the easiest way to get what I want?

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  • BSOD: PFN_LIST_CORRUPT and IRQ_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL

    - by David Lively
    I built a desktop about a year ago that has, until a few weeks ago, been running without a hitch using Windows 7 Ultimate. Recently, the PC started occasionally rebooting with a blue screen indicating a "PFN_LIST_CORRUPT" error. Also, I've seen at least once the error IRQ_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL. I seem to remember temporarily connecting an internal DVD burner about the same time this happened. I burned a DVD for another machine and promptly removed the drive. Yesterday, I reformatted the drive and installed Win7 Ultimate x64. During the first install, the PFN_LIST_CORRUPT bluescreen reared its ugly head again. A second install attempt completed with no errors. The fact that this error happened during a clean install leads me to believe that this is not a driver or OS issue. I also ran the memory diagnostic from the Win7 32-bit install DVD. It completed both passes with no errors. Periodically, the screen will flicker, as if explorer or the video are resetting. In the event log, I see a series of 8 or so errors indicating that some services unexpectedly stopped, and were apparently reset. These include an HID service and some others (I don't have a list in front of me). The PC is a Phenom X2 3 Ghz with a 500GB Seagate drive, 4GB of Corsair XMS2 cm2x2048-6400c5c. Anyone know what would suddenly cause a couple of sticks of RAM to go bad?

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  • New SSD, is the MBR broken? DISK BOOT FAILURE

    - by Shevek
    I've been running Windows 7 on a WD 500gb SATA single drive, single partition setup for some time with no issues. I've just installed a new Kingston V Series 64gb SSD and performed a clean install of Win7 to it, deleting the partitions on the 500gb and using that as a data drive. All was well for a few reboots but then I started to get "DISK BOOT FAILURE, INSERT SYSTEM DISK AND PRESS ENTER" messages. If I put the Win7 install DVD back in the drive it boots fine. Tried a clean install again, after replacing SATA cables and swapping SATA ports, with a complete partition wipe of both drives. Again, rebooted fine a few times then back with the "DISK BOOT FAILURE" error. Looked on the web and found some discussions about it so I then started from scratch again. This time I wiped the MBR on both drives using MBRWork, disconnected the 500gb and reinstalled to the SSD. Removed the install DVD and installed all the drivers which involved many reboots, all with no problem. To make sure I also did a few cold boots as well. Reconnected the 500gb, initialised, partitioned and formatted it. Copied data to it and did some more reboots and shutdowns. All was ok. Then out of the blue comes another "DISK BOOT FAILURE" and again, if the Win7 install DVD is in the drive it boots fine. So, is the SSD a bad'un? TIA UPDATE: It was a BIOS issue! I found a hidden away option for HDD boot order, which was separate from the usual HDD/CDRom/FDD boot order option. The WD was set to boot before the SSD... Swapped them round and all is well. Still don't understand how it worked at first though... Thanks Solaris

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  • Migrate Windows Server 2008 to a new hard disk

    - by MainMa
    Hi, I have a machine with Windows Server 2008. I want to change the hard disk drive, but keep everything else. I don't have a cd/dvd drive and don't want to buy it. My first idea was to make a byte-to-byte copy of the disk with Paragon Advanced Recovery. The problem is that when I try to boot from a new hard disk, it says that there were hardware changes and that Windows must be repaired, inviting me to insert the installation disk and follow repair instructions. I searched and found that 1:1 copy is not a correct way to do things. The correct one is to restore Windows to a new hard disk from a full system backup. But to restore, I need to have a dvd drive. I tried to make a copy of the Windows Server 2008 .iso on an USB flash drive, but the drive is not bootable (while the same procedure applied to Paragon Advanced Recovery ISO produces a bootable recovery USB flash drive). Now what else can I do (except buying a dvd drive)? Is there a way either to make Windows work without doing recovery or recover Windows 2008 without using a cd drive?

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  • Borked ubuntu uninstall - need to delete boot partition (i think)

    - by Max Williams
    I just got a new pc laptop with windows 7 and wanted to install Ubuntu on it. Which i did, no problem there, by downloading the installer, burning it to dvd then booting off the dvd and installing. Then, i realised that the new Ubuntu 12.04 uses the Unity desktop, which i immediately disliked, and after some research, began to hate. So, i decided (after a little googling) to install Linux Mint instead. So, thinking i'd better start from scratch, i went to the Windows 7 disk manager and wiped the Ubuntu partition that had been created. Now, when i start up, i get an error from grub, the ubuntu boot manager: error: unknown filesystem grub rescue> _ and a blinking cursor where i can enter commands. I suspect that what i've done is deleted the main ubuntu partition but NOT deleted another partition which is a boot partition, or something like that? Can anyone tell me how i can rescue or unbork this? I'd like to either a) get back to my original windows-only setup OR b) install linux mint off dvd (which i have), into the empty partition, fixing any grub confusion in the process. Any suggestions? Thanks, max BTW please don't answer if you're just going to tell me to stick with 12.04, or install a different distro or something. I definitely want Mint and just want to fix this mess - thanks :)

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  • Win 7 Media Center - TV - No audio on HD channels

    - by Chuzein Part II
    I wonder if you can help. I have recently purchased a PCTV Nanostick DVD-T2 290e I am running Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit and I use Windows media center for almost everything. I run a media center machine in my lounge through my Sony AV Amp onto my HD TV. I bought the Nanostick to watch ‘Freeview HD’ programmes when watching the TV through the Media Center – I also have a Sony Freeview Plus system that the Mrs uses. I installed the Nanostick with relatively no issues and as described by many user reviews Media Center picked up the new USB tuner and scanned all the new channels and I was presented with all the HD channels. The issue I have is that there is no audio sound from the HD channels but perfect video. SD works fine. The software that comes with the Nanostick works fine – both sound and vision are perfect for the HD channels. As mentioned, I run my Media Centre lots. I have an extensive DVD and BD collection stored on a server and DVD and BD all play perfectly through Arcsoft Total Media Theatre 5 – with no issues on either SD or HD. My sound card is built into my motherboard and that sends the audio signal to my gfx card and that in turn passes it through to my Sony AV Amp that decodes the audio to be heard on my 5.1 set up. Does anyone have any ideas. I have searched lots on the net and I cant find anyone else with the same issue. I am aware of codecs etc but I don’t really understand it. It also puzzles me that when I read the user/buyer reviews for this product so many people tell the story of faultless installations on the same kind of set up as me.

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  • Did my hard drive fail or is it something else?

    - by Julian
    Last night while I was watched a movie on my laptop the external monitor just went blank and the built-in display froze. Weird I thought, so I restarted it only to be greeted with this heart-breaking message. "No Operating System Found". After a few panicked restarts I accepted the fact that my hard drive might be done :(. Being the resourceful technie that I am, I whipped out Ubuntu Live on my old Flash Drive and was up and running before day break. I cannot access the hard drive through Ubuntu (which I expected) but I also cannot access my DVD drive either! This got me thinking that it might not be the hard drive and some other component that they hdd and the dvd uses. Hopefully this is the case. Which component is the most likely culprit? What tools can I use from Ubuntu Live on my USB flash drive to find out? I'm in a bad place without my hdd, thanks in advance for any assistance provided! P.S. My laptop makes a weird noise when I try to access or eject my DVD within the slot. Also my HDD makes a weird noise sometimes. Not sure how to describe it. System Specs: Dell 1558

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  • Can I have a single solid state drive and a RAID array on the same machine? [closed]

    - by jaminto
    Hi- To summarize, i'm looking to use a single solid state drive as my primary drive, and two conventional sata drives in a RAID 1 configuration for data. I am trying to install 64-bit Windows 7 onto this configuration. Is this possible? Here are the details: I built a desktop that has been running 64-bit Vista on two 500Gb in a RAID 1 array for a few years. I just purchased an Intel X25-M 80Gb Sata Solid-State Drive, and was planning on using this a my primary drive, and keeping the RAID 1 array as my data drive. I added the SSD drive and in the RAID setup, configured it as a RAID 0 array of only one disk. Then, I tried to do a clean install of windows 7 64-bit, but got stuck in the "Missing driver for CD/DVD drive" black hole of selecting driver files and Windows telling me that i don't have the appropriate driver for my hardware. The missing hardware is NOT a CD/DVD drive, since i'm installing off of my only CD/DVD drive. Plus at one point i was able to point it at a driver for my raid controller, and then my hard drives magically showed up as browsable sources for finding drivers for some other unnamed device that setup couldn't recognize. After a few hours of trying drivers (this was a very slow process) i decided to reboot and look at the BIOS settings. I'm using an ASUS M2A-VM motherboard which has an ATI SB600 RAID controller on board. I switched the "On board SATA Type" setting from "SATA" to "AHCI" thinking that since AHCI is an Intel thing, this would help. Unfortunately, this abandoned my RAID configuration, and my previously mirrored drives are showing up as separate drives when i boot into my current windows installation. Am i trying to do the impossible here? Should i just buy a separate SATA/RAID PCI card and plug the SSD into that? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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  • UEFI boot options gone

    - by user1797930
    I ran into some issues booting Windows after trying to make a complete backup of the disc. After searching for information about some of the error codes, I found advise to change some BIOS settings, but instead I thought I would just "restore defaults" to make sure all settings were set as originally intended. After doing so, all UEFI boot options except for "Windows Boot Manager" are gone. That means, including the CD/DVD drive, so I cannot even boot from a recovery DVD anymore - and as explained, Windows is not able to boot either. Do you have any advice? When I added a secondary drive originally, it was automatically added to the boot options menu. Even when removing and re-adding the drive physically, the option does not appear again. I have tried unplugging power, and hold down start button for 10 seconds, and boot afterwards - no change. It's a laptop so removing CMOS battery is not an option. I have read information that it is an issue with data removed from NVRAM, but I am unable to find a way to recover it. "Add new boot options" requires a path - but the CD/DVD was originally available without any CD's in the drive - so there is no path available to add the drive. I did try to open EFI shell, but it seems not to be embedded in the UEFI/BIOS. It just says "not found". I'm really lost here - any advice is appreciated.

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  • Multiboot USB (OSX only): How to customize partition name?

    - by wrk2bike
    Trying to deal with all the Mac OSX recovery disks I've got by moving them to bootable USB images. I've got a big USB drive with multiple partitions for each recovery disk, and it's easy to use Disk Utility to "restore" the recovery DVD to a partition. When I boot my target Mac while holding down the Alt key, I can see all my bootable images and they work great. Problem is, they've all got the same name: "Mac OS X Install DVD." I manage Macs of various vintages. If my target Mac needs 10.6.3 for example, my only option seems to be to try each one until I get past the "Mac OSX can't be installed on this computer" message. I originally named my partitions with the OSX revision number, but that name is replaced by the disk image name during Disk Utility restore. Is there any way to customize the name during or after Disk Utility restore? I tried making a new DVD image on disk first and renaming it, but when I restore it to my recovery partition it has the original name. EDIT: After booting to the wrong partition, and getting the "..can't be installed" message, I can open the Startup Disk menu and see the other partitions - and as I select each one, the info at the bottom indicates which OS revision is on that partition. So I know the info is in there! Just want it at the boot screen if possible.

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