Search Results

Search found 90516 results on 3621 pages for 'user smith'.

Page 659/3621 | < Previous Page | 655 656 657 658 659 660 661 662 663 664 665 666  | Next Page >

  • Is there a blog tool with support for tagging posts, only displaying posts with certain combinations

    - by Philip
    What I want: A blog. I can tag posts, e.g. "A" or "B" or "all," and then you can either 1) click to only view posts tagged "A" or "all" or 2) even more ideally, I can set it so you automatically see posts tagged "A" or "all" when you log in. LaTeX support--I can type in LaTeX in the editor and it will show the math properly. No anonymous anything--must sign up and be logged in to view and comment Not as important, but convenient: Admin controls, e.g. detailed statistics, see who posts or views what when, control who posts / views, etc. Hosting: Ideally, if there's some software I can install on "my" own server, that would be ideal. But if we can't host it, it'd still be good to find some free (or maybe even paid) service elsewhere that would host the blog if it provided those tools. Any thoughts? I have no experience with this. Thanks!

    Read the article

  • Diagnose Issues with USB External Hard Drive

    - by Chris Lieb
    I have a 1TB SATA hard drive in a third-party USB enclosure hooked up to my computer via USB. The drive has become increasingly unreliable, randomly unmounting and remounting in Windows, making strange noises on occasion, and every once in a while making lots of noise and then unmounting, only fixable by powering down the enclosure, waiting a while, then powering it back up again. I am unsure if the hard drive or the enclosure is to blame. The random unmount/remount could be the enclosure, but the strange sounds are likely related to the hard drive. Given this uncertainty, I want to figure out which of the two items needs to be replaced. However, I do not know of a way to test each item separately since I do not have an extra SATA-to-USB enclosure to test the hard drive with or an extra SATA hard drive to test the enclosure with. Does anyone know how to figure out what's to blame so that I don't have to replace both unless it is absolutely necessary.

    Read the article

  • Linux error when resume from RAM

    - by TuxPotato
    The last two times that I have resumed my laptop from sleep, it has hung and given me this set of errors: [drm:atom_op_jump] *ERROR* atombios stuck in loop for more than 1sec aborting [drm:atom_execute_table_locked] *ERROR* atombios stuck executing E692 (len 460, WS 0, PS 4) @0xE6D3 hda_intel: azx_get_responce timeout, switching to single_cmd mode: last cmd=0x01170700 ata6: softreset failed (device not ready) ata4: softreset failed (device not ready) [drm:atom_op_jump] *ERROR* atombios stuck in loop for more than 1sec aborting [drm:atom_execute_table_locked] *ERROR* atombios stuck executing E692 (len 460, WS 0, PS 4) @0xE6D3 The last two messages repeat two more times. The first time this happened, Linux's Magic SysRq worked and did a soft reboot, and after that everything was fine till it went to sleep again. It wakes up and gives me this. Here are the laptop stats: Toshiba Satellite L455D-S5976 AMD Sempron SI-42 Processor 2GB DDR2 RAM HD TruBrite Display ATI Radeon Graphics (integrated) Running Ubuntu 10.10 32 bit I'm not sure about the hard drive, but its a 250GB drive with one NTFS partition, two Hidden NTFS, one Linux Swap, and one Ext4. Can someone tell me whats wrong with my laptop? NOTE: This only happens when I close the screen. My computer doesn't go to sleep with the screen open.

    Read the article

  • Disable click action after letting up a mouse wheel hold scroll in Chrome browser

    - by Joe Miller
    I apologize in advance for the confusing title, not sure what the best way to describe this action is. Basically, I am holding down the mouse wheel and then moving the mouse itself up and down to scroll (not actually rotating the mouse wheel forward or backward). This is often the most convenient way to scroll for me. Unfortunately, when I scroll in this way, and then let up the mouse wheel again, it performs a click action, so if the arrow happens to land on a link when I let up the mouse wheel, I end up inadvertently clicking that link. How can I prevent the mouse from performing a click action when I use the mouse wheel to scroll by holding it down and then letting it up when I am done scrolling? It seems like this is only happening in the Chrome browser. Thanks! Windows 7, Chrome Browser, Logitech Mouse

    Read the article

  • Windows 7 and laptop overheating

    - by Nikola
    I am using ArchLinux 99% of my working time, and laptop has absolutely no heating problems. But when it comes to using Windows 7, laptop starts heating and one can clearly hear CPU fan working like crazy. I think it has something to do with CPU itself, because on Linux I can simply manipulate with CPU governors (eg. set it to ondemand), but I can't seem to find any similar software to do the same thing as if in Linux. Or, the heating might be caused because of two graphics cards or something? CPU-Z results http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2310815 Any idea/solution regarding this issue?

    Read the article

  • How to change Windows 8 Start Background Image and Color Scheme?

    - by Lukas Schmelzeisen
    I want to change the style of the Windows 8 Start Screen: Under Charmsbar > Settings > More PC Settings > Personalize > Start Screen you can choose out of 20 predefined background images and between 25 predefined color schemes: How can you specify your own custom Windows 8 Start Background Image and Color Scheme? There were multiple Tools for the preview version like Windows 8 UI Tweaker or My WCP Start Screen Customizer, however none of them seem to work in the final release version of Windows 8.

    Read the article

  • Why do my speakers get distorted randomly on Windows 7?

    - by Daniel Fischer
    I have a studio monitor setup. I have 2 KRK 6's and a Focusrite Firewire Pro 24. Every few hours my speakers sound distorted and my solution has been go to sound levels Properties of Saffire Audio Device Advanced Default Format Toggle to 16 bit then back to 24bit. Why does it screw up every few hours? Sometimes one speaker doesn't output too and this same process resets it but that's more rare. Is this a OS issue or Focusrite Driver Issue?

    Read the article

  • Windows 7 external 2.5 hard drive read write permissions format

    - by user76918
    Working with Windows 7 professional. While trying to format western digital 250GB sata laptop drive; receiving error not initialized. Went to elevated command line to diskpart to clean all; received error message write protected. Went to Disk Management & Virtual disk drive shows as disk 2 not initialized. No format options available greyed out. Went back to command line tried to see attributes disk is read only. How do I take owner ship to change the permissions & format.

    Read the article

  • What causes "A disk read error occurred, Press Ctrl + Alt + Del to restart"?

    - by Mehrdad
    I have a virtual machine containing Windows XP SP3. When I resized the VHD file (and the embedded partition), and tried booting, I got: A disk read error occurred Press Ctrl + Alt + Del to restart Some notes: FixBoot and FixMBR don't help. ChkDsk doesn't help. The partition is indeed active. The partition starts at sector 63 (it also did so before the problem) of cylinder 1, head 1, and is marked as type 0x07 (NTFS) My host OS reads the VHD and the partition completely fine I'm interested in knowing the cause rather than the fix. So "re-format the disk", "reinstall Windows", etc. aren't valid solutions. It's a virtual machine after all... I have nothing to lose, so I don't care about fixing it. I just want to know what's causing this problem, in case I run into it again on a physical machine (which I have done before). More info: The layout of the original, dynamic VHD (which works correctly): +-----------------------------------------------------------------------------+ ¦ Disk: 3 MBR/GPT: MBR ¦ ¦ Size: 127.00GB CHS: 16578 255 63 ¦ ¦ Sectors: 266338304 Disk Signature: 0xEE3EEE3E ¦ ¦ Partitions: 1 Partition Order: 1 ¦ ¦ Media Type: Fixed Interface: SCSI ¦ ¦ Description: Msft Virtual Disk ¦ +-----------------------------------------------------------------------------¦ ¦Pos Idx Type/Name Size Boot Hide Start Sector Total Sectors DL Vol Label ¦ +--- --- --------- ---- ---- ---- -------------- -------------- -- -----------¦ ¦ 1 1 07-NTFS 1.5G Yes No 63 3,148,677 F: <None> ¦ +-----------------------------------------------------------------------------+ The layout of the resized, fixed-size VHD (which doesn't work): +-----------------------------------------------------------------------------+ ¦ Disk: 3 MBR/GPT: MBR ¦ ¦ Size: 1.50GB CHS: 196 255 63 ¦ ¦ Sectors: 3149824 Disk Signature: 0xEE3EEE3E ¦ ¦ Partitions: 1 Partition Order: 1 ¦ ¦ Media Type: Fixed Interface: SCSI ¦ ¦ Description: Msft Virtual Disk ¦ +-----------------------------------------------------------------------------¦ ¦Pos Idx Type/Name Size Boot Hide Start Sector Total Sectors DL Vol Label ¦ +--- --- --------- ---- ---- ---- -------------- -------------- -- -----------¦ ¦ 1 1 07-NTFS 1.5G Yes No 63 3,148,677 F: <None> ¦ +-----------------------------------------------------------------------------+

    Read the article

  • What changes does McAfee make to the registry?

    - by AUTO
    I'm wondering if anyone knows exactly what McAfee does to the registry. I've got a computer on which JavaScript no longer works. I read online that McAfee replaces the script interpreter dll path in the registry to point to its own dll, which filters, and in turn calls the official "jscript.dll". I found multiples of these in the registry, and corrected them, but it still hasn't fixed the problem - JavaScript still does not work. I'm considering just reinstalling, and then re-uninstalling McAfee to fix it. However, for the record, I still want to know if anyone has, or can provide an online list of all the changes McAfee makes to the registry. Details: Windows 8 x64I found these JScript registry changes: HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\CLSID\{f414c260-6ac0-11cf-b6d1-00aa00bbbb58} HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\CLSID\{f414c261-6ac0-11cf-b6d1-00aa00bbbb58}

    Read the article

  • How can I most efficiently batch resize images on a Mac?

    - by Nick Douglas
    I've been batch-resizing images through Preview (OS X) through the menu bar, but I want a simpler workflow, since I do this a dozen times a day. What I want: 1. Select a group of image files in finder 2. Hit a button or two (menu item or keyboard shortcut) to do the following: a. Scale all the pictures to 600 pixels wide b. Save as JPG files at 75% quality What I also want: - All of the above, plus step a(1): Crop images to 200 pixel height I can do all that manually, to a batch of files, through Preview. I can do it one at a time with some keyboard shortcuts in Photoshop or Pixelmator. Automator (using Preview) can scale to 600 pixels on the longest dimension, but it doesn't let me specify width. (It can scale specifically to width before cropping height.) It can change to JPG, but it can't specify image quality. And I can assign a keyboard shortcut to the whole process. Is that my best option on a Mac? Can I accomplish this more efficiently through another app like Quicksilver?

    Read the article

  • Setting up a wireless connection

    - by shadeMe
    I've got a DLINK router connected to my ADSL modem that forms the hub of my home network. I've two clients - A desktop with an onboard wireless adaptor and a laptop that's outfitted with the same. The former runs Windows 7 x64, the latter Windows XP x86. I'd like to setup a wireless connection between the two that would allow me play games over to and to a lesser extent, transfer and stream data. How would I go about doing it ?

    Read the article

  • How to stop Time Machine on Mac to use removeable disk?

    - by ablmf
    One of my friend recently bought a Mac and somehow when she connect her removeable disk to the computer, Time Machine took control of this device use it as backup device automatically. So she could not use the disc for other purpose any more. When we connect it to windows, it could not be recognize any more. How can we get it back under control?

    Read the article

  • How to configure DNS Server on Fedora

    - by user863873
    I want to learn how to configure my home PC server into a web server with domain and host. My IP is 109.99.141.133 and now points to a phpinfo page host on my home server. My registed domain is: anunta-anunturi.ro I searched for a tutorial and I've read that I have to configure /etc/named.conf and the file sources for the new zone that I create. So, from the tutorials, my /etc/named.conf looks like this: // // named.conf // // Provided by Red Hat bind package to configure the ISC BIND named(8) DNS // server as a caching only nameserver (as a localhost DNS resolver only). // // See /usr/share/doc/bind*/sample/ for example named configuration files. // options { listen-on port 53 { 127.0.0.1; }; listen-on-v6 port 53 { ::1; }; directory "/var/named"; dump-file "/var/named/data/cache_dump.db"; statistics-file "/var/named/data/named_stats.txt"; memstatistics-file "/var/named/data/named_mem_stats.txt"; allow-query { localhost; }; recursion yes; dnssec-enable yes; dnssec-validation yes; dnssec-lookaside auto; /* Path to ISC DLV key */ bindkeys-file "/etc/named.iscdlv.key"; managed-keys-directory "/var/named/dynamic"; }; logging { channel default_debug { file "data/named.run"; severity dynamic; }; }; zone "anunta-anunturi.ro" IN { type master; file "/etc/anunta-anunturi.db"; }; zone "." IN { type hint; file "named.ca"; }; include "/etc/named.rfc1912.zones"; include "/etc/named.root.key"; My /etc/anunta-anunturi.db file looks like this — I'm not sure if this is okay, or if it's the easy one. $TTL 86400 anunta-anunturi.ro. IN SOA serveur.anunta-anunturi.ro. root.serveur.anunta-anunturi.ro. ( 1997022700 ; Serial 28800 ; Refresh 14400 ; Retry 3600000 ; Expire 86400 ) ; Minumun IN NS serveur.anunta-anunturi.ro. IN MX 10 mail.anunta-anunturi.ro. serveur.anunta-anunturi.ro. IN A 192.168.1.37 www.anunta-anunturi.ro. IN A 192.168.1.37 mail.anunta-anunturi.ro. IN A 192.168.1.37 Extra info: At home I receive internet from my ISP through a router. My home PC and server recieve their IP automatically from the router when I start/restart. In my local home network, my server receives the IP 192.168.1.37 from the router. When I enter 109.99.141.133 in my browser, it points to the rooter that forwards port 80 to local IP 192.168.1.37 (my home server) Questions: Are my two files good? What/where is my nameserver that I need to copy/paste to my top level domain (where I registered my domain: rotld.ro)?

    Read the article

  • Is there any online web application for daily activity logs [closed]

    - by user25
    I am looking for daily calendar-like apps, but ones that have some text editor attached for every day. All I want to do is that when I open that page, it should open the text editor for that day and I could enter some data of what I have accomplished, then save it. The next day I'd like it so when I open the application, then I can go to new page, but I have all of the previous day's data to have a look at what I have done. Something like Google calendar, but I need an associated text editor to paste some notes, stuff, etc. on a daily basis with logs.

    Read the article

  • How to make Notepad++ take over from the standard notepad.exe

    - by Nick
    I could do this easily with TextPad, then I got irritated with Textpad once I'd played with Notepad++. Now that I've removed Textpad: I want Notepad++ to take over the right-click Edit option in Explorer, and I want Notepad++ to come up when I type notepad in the command prompt. I know that Notepad++ has a shell extension that allows one to do right-click Edit in Notepad++. But my old right-click Edit link remains, and I keep finding myself clicking on it, only to be rewarded with an error.

    Read the article

  • Logitech MK300 : "no driver found"

    - by Oystein
    Hi I bought kewyboard and mouse from Logitech. The model is MK300. I wanna run 64-bits Windows 7 with this. When I connect the USB-receiver, Windows is trying to install it but gives me the error message: "no driver found". I tried to download SetPoint 4.80, but that didn't help. I have rebooted the computer several of times, tried different USB'ports, and have allso tried menye different mouses from Logitech. Non of this works. Have someone any suggestions for how I can fix my problem?

    Read the article

  • Why do GPUs overheat?

    - by JAD
    About a year ago, I added a 9800GT (1 GB version) and a Corsair CX500 PSU to an HP M8000N computer. A few weeks ago, the HDD overheated and I decided to transfer the GPU & PSU to a new build, which consists of: i3 @ 3.3Ghz Gigabyte H61 Micro ATX Mobo 4GB RAM 500GB WD HDD DVD RW Drive Cooler Master Elite 430 Tower Once I had Win7 up and running, I installed all the essential drivers that came with the Gigabyte Mobo CD. However, whenever I tried installing the Graphics Media Accelerator driver, the computer would crash and enter an endless boot sequence on the next startup. I skipped installing this driver and installed the CD driver for the 9800GT, which by now is a year old. Everything was working fine, WEI rated my GPU at 6.6 graphics & aero performance. However, after updating my Nvidia drivers to the latest, the WEI dropped my rating to 3.3 for Aero, and 4.7 for graphics performance. Just to make sure that everything was ok, I ran Bad Company 2 on medium settings. The first few minutes ran just fine at a smooth framerate, so I dismissed this as Windows being Windows. About 6 hours later, I ran BC2 again. This time I averaged anywhere from 2-5 FPS. I checked the GPU temperature through GPU-Z, and it came back as 120C. The problem with this, is that the computer was on for six hours up to that point. Wouldn't the card have experienced a reactor core meltdown a lot sooner than that? Granted, the computer was "sleeping" some of the time, but still... The next day I took out a temperature gun and ran some tests. I would point the laser at a very specific area on the reverse side of the card (not the fan or "front"), and compare the temp reading with GPU-Z. After leaving the system on idle on idle for a few minutes, I ran BC2 twice. Here are the results: GPU-Z Reading / Temp Gun Reading / Time Null / 22.3°C / Comp is Off 53°C / 33.5°C / 1:49 78°C / 46°C / 1:53 - (First BC2 run; good framerate) 102°C / 64.6°C / 2:01 - (System is again on idle) 113°C / 64.8°C / 2:10 119°C / 71.8°C / 2:17 - (Second BC2 run; poor framerate) I should also mention that I also took a temp recording of another part of the GPU from 2:01-2:17. The temp in this area jumped from 75°C to 82.9°C in that time frame. This pretty much confirms that GPU-Z is reporting the temperature accurately, and the card is overheating. But I'd like to know why; the cars is doing nothing and still the temperature climbs at a steady rate. I thoroughly cleaned the GPU and PSU when I salvaged them from the old HP M8000N computer with a can of compressed air, dust cant be the issue. Similarly, the rest of the computer is brand new. I installed various Nvidia drivers, but no luck. It seems strange to me that a year-old card is suddenly failing on me; aren't they supposed to last at least two years? Could this be a driver issue? Is the motherboard faulty? Could the PSU be overfeeding the card on voltage? Neither case seems likely, as the CPU, RAM and otherwise the rest of the comp has worked flawlessly and has stayed well within respectable temp ranges (the i3 lingers around 50C, the HDD stays at 30C, so does the PSU). How can I pinpoint the issue?

    Read the article

  • iPhone apps causing battery to drain out

    - by saurabh
    Hi, Recently my iPhone battery started to discharge in just one day. I do not use my iPhone much (less than 1 hour a day). and then while discussing it with couple of colleagues, I heard that there are some apps which even if installed on your iPhone can cause your battery to drain out faster. It does not matter if you are not using those apps, only having them installed was enough to cause battery drain. I have heard this from couple of my techie friends as well and thus had to put some credibility to it. Being an iPhone developer, I don't think that is possible. Do you think if this is possible for an app to cause battery drain just by being installed there on iPhone?

    Read the article

  • Filtering junk mail in Outlook 2007

    - by Faruz
    I keep getting mail which I try to filter as junk. Problem is, it is sent from my e-mail address while writing that the name of the sender is "Viagra yada yada yada ([email protected])" I can't add a rule to outlook according to sender's name, right? Is there any other way I can filter those e-mails (I can't add a rule to junk-mail my own e-mail address). The subject of the e-mails keeps changing in the following formats: "Faruz 76% discount now!" "Faruz 80% discount now!" "Now! 78% discount Faruz" (They seem to have infinite ideas of saying the same thing... :) ) So I also seem to have problems filtering according to subject. ideas?

    Read the article

  • Retail windows xp prof sp 2 Lost key but have the genuine cd , what to do?

    - by AdityaGameProgrammer
    I had recently formatted my system only to find out i have lost the cd key to my original cd. i had used the option to enter the product key later. Yes, i know its a stupid thing to do but i bought the cd in 2008 from a retail store and i lost the original packaging. the actual label on the cd is includes service pack version 2002 .@2004 microsoft corporation reserved. There are some numbers on the back side of the cd in the inner ring. i cant for the life of me figure out how what is the use of the genuine cd i have with me when i cant seem to activate it. what exactly is the advantage of having the original cd in your possession in situations like this?. i have tried the unattend.txt and it doesnt contain the correct key. and there does not exist any winnnt.sif file in the cd. where on the cd or in it can i find the product id information i stay in india . and my attempts at trying the microsoft support site keeps getting me directed to page which says they had stopped support for windows xp in 2011. lets say by some miracle i do contact microsoft. what information would i have to provide them? and would they be giving me the product key for my cd key from their database? or a new key?

    Read the article

  • graphics-card makes sound-card produce a buzzing sound

    - by Markus von Broady
    Recently I bought a new GPU: GeForce GTX 550 Ti, and after installing it I get a strange buzzing sound. It's not always there, just sometimes (mostly when I open some game, but sometimes also in browsers etc.). It's not a capacitor or a fan, as unplugging speakers from sound-card makes the 'bzzzzzzz' go away. However, muting windows doesn't mute this sound. I'm pretty sure it is fault of the new GPU, but how is this happening and can I fix it? Can it be a low power supply? I thought of buying a stronger unit, but as everything works, and computer doesn't shut down, I hesitate.

    Read the article

  • Ericsson W35 ssh administration

    - by jblaster
    I picked up a Ericsson W35 at a pawn shop the other day and when I login to the administration section at 192.168.1.1 I get an error message about connecting to the database. It apparently supports ssh administration and I get a password prompt when attempting to ssh [email protected] but no passwords I try work and theres no documentation for it. Has anyone had success with ssh on the Ericsson W35 and is this issue fixable? Thanks.

    Read the article

< Previous Page | 655 656 657 658 659 660 661 662 663 664 665 666  | Next Page >