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  • Have it fixed or buy a new one?

    - by Workshop Alex
    My dual-monitor system has just become a single-monitor system again when the older monitor decided it would be nice to just turn to black. It's a Samsung LCD monitor and is over three years old. Not sure if the warranty is still valid but I just wonder what option would me more efficient: 1) Have the monitor fixed for a small amount. 2) Buy a new monitor for a slightly bigger amount. When monitors were still expensive, I wouldn't doubt about this and would just have my monitor repaired. But prices are so low nowadays, (and repairs are expensive) that I wonder if it's worth the trouble... Of course, I'm in no hurry since I still have another monitor. It's just that I liked the dual-monitor setup. Solved! Just ordered a new monitor. A Samsumg Syncmaster T260HD 25,5". Much more than it would cost me if I just had my old one repaired but I noticed that this one has a build-in TV tuner, plus speakers. It's way more expensive than a repair, but it's worth the additional value it provides.

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  • Suggestions for wireless adapter

    - by Michael Kniskern
    I recently purchased a desktop computer and it did not come with a wireless network card. I am currently using the Belkin Wireless G USB Adapter and it is a very sub par product. It has very slow response times and download speeds with just basic browsing and downloads podcasts through iTunes. Does anyone have a better suggestion for a wireless adapter? Should I go with another USB adapter or one that connects directly into the motherboard? I am current using Windows Vista 64 bit Home Premium.

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  • Computer won't start unless power is removed for ~5 minutes

    - by Paul Tarjan
    I have a fairly standard 2-year old desktop computer (quad-core intel, single hard drive, decent video card, 300W power supply) which recently started acting up. I'm not sure what the cause is, so hopefully you can help. Sometimes (once a week-ish) I press the power button and nothing happens. No blinking, no sounds, no nothing. If I remove the power cord (or flip the switch on the power supply) I hear a capacitor discharge. If I leave it in the "no power at all" state for about 5 minutes then I can put the plug back in and the computer works perfectly. What is the issue? What do you think I have to replace?

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  • Small (Micro) 16GB USB flash drive

    - by cust0s
    I'm looking for a small 16GB USB flash drive, that's good looking, will stand the test of time and can be attached to a key ring. I don't want extra software (like that found on the SanDisk Micro Cruzer) and it needs to be compatible with Windows, Mac and Linux. Also, I'd rather pay a bit more than buying a cheap flash drive and then it crapping out on me.

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  • How do I re-enable the IPMI temperature sensors?

    - by NobleUplift
    I've never had a problem reading temperature sensors with ipmitool on my server, but recently the temperature readings started showing up as disabled: # ipmitool sdr list Temp | disabled | ns Temp | disabled | ns Ambient Temp | 21 degrees C | ok CMOS Battery | 0x00 | ok VCORE | 0x00 | ok VDDIO | 0x00 | ok VDDA | 0x00 | ok VTT | 0x00 | ok VCORE | 0x00 | ok VDDIO | 0x00 | ok VDDA | 0x00 | ok VTT | 0x00 | ok VDD 1.2V PG | 0x00 | ok Linear PG | 0x00 | ok I am using OpenIPMI 2.0.19 and ipmitool 1.8.12. How can I re-enable my temperature sensors?

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  • Can anyone explain these cpu specs?

    - by Kevin
    Intel® Core™ i7-640M (2.8~3.46GHz, 35W) w/4MB Cache - 2 Cores, 4 Threads - 2.5 GT/s SO i'm buying a new laptop, which i have not done in 6 years. So i am not familiar with any of these cpu specs. It was the highest option for intel for this laptop. So i am assuming it is somewhat fast. But i'd like to learn what these specs mean. Any help would be greatly appreciated. i am not really a computer guy but would love to learn about what I am buying. Thanks!

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  • Old notebook internal display randomly not recognized

    - by jfcfar
    I have an old Acer TM4001 notebook. If the laptop is powered-off, with the lid closed, when I power it on, it generally works. Then, without touching anything, if I reboot the computer the internal display wil not work anymore. To make it working again I need to shut down the pc, close and reopen the lid and then turn it on. If I close and reopen the lid if it is not working after power the pc on, it won't work. When the screen is working, closing and opening it has no effect (the data cable seems ok). The external monitor always works as expected: If the internal display is not detected, the external will be the main (and only) display. This is not OS-related. When the screen is not working I cannot see the POST. What could be the cause for this?

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  • Can two Identical devices be present on the same bus in any PCI Topology

    - by vaibbhav
    As per the PCI standard, devices are identified on the basis of Vendor Id, Device Id and the bus no. All devices of same type have identical vendor id and device id. If I put two such devices on the same bus say bus 0. How will the PCI Software Subsystem distinguish between the two? If such a case is not possible in PCI, then can such thing be possible through PCI Express Switch?

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  • When machine is turned on, only the fan runs

    - by Gopal
    Hi, I have an issue slightly similar to this one posted here, http://superuser.com/questions/127016/troubleshooting-monitor-never-turns-on-system-fans-running-dvd-rom-does-not-op My configuration is as follows: EPOX 9NPA+ Ultra motherboard AMD Athlon 64 CPU Corsair 2 x 1GB PC3200 DDR RAM 1 DVD RW drive and 1 CD ROM Drive SATA 250 GB Hard drive 400W Power supply EVGA 256MB graphics card I have had this configuration for about four years. Last month, I started having issues in starting the machine. It wouldn't start when I press the ON button in the front of the case. So I used to pull out the power cord and plug it back in and then switch on in the front, and it used to work fine. And then one fine day, when I plugged in the power cord at the back, even without switching on the power-on button at the front, I saw that the fan at the back was running. So I opened the system. Then I could see that all the fans inside were running. I replaced the power supply. No luck there. Then I replaced the CMOS battery. Again nothing improved. Even when I removed all the cards and memory, I still get one short beep. That's it. Any idea how to proceed on this? Anything else could be checked? I want to confirm if this is a motherboard failure, before proceeding to replace it.

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  • Are there any good soft keyboards?

    - by oo
    My office is right next to my daughter's room and my typing sometimes wakes her up. Are there any soft keyboards that anyone recommends that would not make as much sound as a regular keyboard when typing?

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  • Restarting an IBM BMC without restarting the server itself

    - by SRobertJames
    I have a few servers with IBM BMC (Baseboard Management Controller). I'd like to power cycle the BMC without restarting the server. Is this possible? How? Note: On one of them, the web interface is down; so I'd need to either do this by physically restarting the BMC (not sure how to do this - even the power button on the server isn't supposed to recycle the BMC, I believe) or via the UDP or SNMP interface (again, not sure how to do that either)

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  • Looking for a good computer repair kit

    - by johnny
    I'm afraid I'll get ripped if I get the generic kit from Tigerdirect or whatever. For clarity this is not software I am after but physical tools. It should include something for occassional soldering of electronics, crimper, other things I cannot remember. Hoping for ideas or product links (yes I am searching also). Thank you.

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  • Is it a good idea to have the operating system on a solid state drive?

    - by Kenji Kina
    There is something I don't quite understand. I know a SSD helps with OS load times, but I'm not sure if all this boost is only noticeable/interesting when booting, or gives an all around considerably better experience thereafter. I am interested in having a quick and responsive environment after booting, which leads me to think that it'd be better to spend the SSD capacity in my most used apps (and the page file? Another inside question) and not the OS itself. This, of course, means that I don't know just how much the OS reads/writes its files during normal usage. So, how good an idea is it to dump the whole 20GB+ of Windows 7 OS into the SSD (considering the hefty price per GB of SSD capacity) if I can put up with the usual hard disk boot times? Would I be missing on a lot if I didn't?

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  • Windows XP Home Edition SP3 cant recognise PCMIA SD Card

    - by Pozo
    System Specifications: Laptop : Dell Inspiron 6000 OS: Windows Home Edition SP3 SD Adapter: Hagiwara Smart Media Adapter I inserted the card into the slot, windows xp recognises the device, lists the pcmia controller on the device manager list, an entry appears under the IDE ATA/ATAPI category on the device manager as well. However, the device does not show under my computer and the driver does not get assigned a letter number. I checked the system logs from the device manager and there were no logged errors. Checking the Hagiwara support website, the manufacturer indicates that the adapter driver is the same as the windows xp pcmia controller. Checking Dell's website, no specific drivers were listed for that either. General Search on the web indicates that multiple people face similar problems with their SD cards, yet none actually spell out the route issue that causes this. Please let me know if you have any suggestions for further debugging. Thanks in advance

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  • Computer does not boot after ram upgrade

    - by Calmarius
    I have a Dell Optiplex GX520 desktop (it's abount 5 yr old) PC with 512 MB DDR2 RAM. Since my computer always swapping I thought I should upgrade my RAM. I bought a Kingmax 2GB DDR2 RAM. But my system does not boot. The status leds are on 2 and 4. The user manual says 'video card failure' wtf? I put back the original module and everything works. I tried many combinations. When I leave the old 512 RAM in and put the 2GB next to it to the other socket my system completes the POST and I'm able to enter the BIOS menu. It says my system has 2.5 GB installed, one 0.5GB and one 2GB in dual asymmetric channel mode. It's seemingly right. Exiting the BIOS setup GRUB loads successfully, but when I try to boot Ubuntu it crashes with kernel panic immediately. Trying to load Windows XP does not get past the loading screen, it crashes with 0x8E stop error. Does this mean the ram I bought is faulty? Or is it just mean that the memory module I bought is too new to be handled my computer? I this case I may exchange the RAM with my friends. No other computer is in my house (my very old box has DDR1 ram, my systers new box has DDR3 ones. I can't plug my memory in neither one.) I'm going to return the RAM to store to replace it with a better one tomorrow. Is there any hope to get this new module work?

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  • How to get the installed Memory Type

    - by balexandre
    Windows 7 could be better at this, it tells everything about the computer CPU but only the Memory amount Microsoft should add information about DDR type, speed and maybe CL as well. While this never happens, What's the best and easy way to check the installed memory so we can buy and upgrade it? I was thinking a simple software so I don't need to install the full SiSoft Sandra for example, just looking for something small, only for the memory part.

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  • What precautions should I take once defective RAM has been replaced?

    - by DustByte
    I recently discovered that my RAM is faulty (MemTest86+). I am waiting for new RAM to be sent to me.  It was through sheer luck that I discovered something was wrong. I was copying a large amount of big files and decided to verify the copies by their checksums. I discovered strange discrepancies, and noticed that checksum computation for the same file was not consistent. Now, this is the only problem I have encountered; no BSOD, no crashes, no errors. In a sense this makes me more worried than if I would have had massive crashes. I have no idea for how long the RAM has been faulty, and I have no idea if corrupt bits have been saved into files on my hard drives. I do know the RAM was fine two months ago (tested it back then). I am a user of Adobe's Lightroom and I am worried that photos or the catalog itself could carry corrupt data. Question: what should I do once new healthy RAM has been installed? Reinstall Windows (I'm using Windows 7, 64 bit)? Is there a risk that I will be presented with nasty surprises in the future if I don't? What about personal files? I have backups of some of the files but for newer files I'm not sure I can even trust the backups. It's going to take me many hard hours to manually replace files with older versions, or compare checksums.

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  • Laptop turns off after 20 minutes of use

    - by Christoph
    My laptop a sony vaio VGN-NW11S http://www.trustedreviews.com/Sony-VAIO-VGN-NW11S-S---15-5in-Laptop_Laptop_review. Everytime i turn it on, in safe mode or not, if i try to open an application i.e. run a process such as google chrome or event viewer, defrag, virus scan, it completely turns off without warning, nor giving a trace of events the next time I switch it on. Apart from that, I had worries it might be my battery or power supply but I dont think it is that, I took the laptop apart cleaning fans etc. and have ordered some cpu paste as I checked to see the condition of the processor. I will post to see if re-applying the paste works. One more thing, when the heavy processes kick in, the fan starts to make a lot of noise, maybe trying to cool down the CPU? Any ideas on what else it could be and what I could do to test what is wrong?

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  • Why would a machine ruin three "power supply"s?

    - by Moshe
    A client of mine has an XP era eMachines. The power supply has died and been replaced 3 times. I've discharged the motherboard and checked the surge protector. In the middle of a scan with ComboFix, the machine died. It powers on and hangs before the BIOS and shows a solid yellow light. I believe the model # is T5062 or something like that. Aside from a bad outlet, what would cause the PSU to die a few times?

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  • A PCI-to-PCI bridge cannot start

    - by midtiby
    Hi I'm trying to use a DeLock PCMCIA adapter, CardBus to 2 x FireWire to get firewire connectivity on my laptop. It worked a few weeks ago, but now I get the message. "This device cannot start (Code 10)" when I look it up in Device manager. Any ideas of how to get it up and running? I am running Windows XP SP3

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  • Two different subwoofers aren't working on my machine or my phone

    - by Philluminati
    I have speakers that come with my computer. Two small desktop speakers and a subwoofer with a base volume control on the back. It's worked for years. I was listening to Spotify on my speakers as loud they would possibly go and with the base turned up to max and suddenly the subwoofer stopped working. I've plugged the speakers into my Android HTC Desire Z handset and again, the desktop speakers play music but the subwoofer doesn't (even after fiddling with the volume control). So I figured I'd broken it. I went to Amazon and bought a replacement one. I bought this one: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002N46YD8/ref=pe_217191_31005151_dp_1 but it doesn't work either, on either my desktop nor my Android phone. I had a play with alsamixer and the LFE and center controls are switched on and the speakers are okay... but still no base. Am I unlucky enough to bought a new subwoofer which is already broken out of the box or is there something else which is wrong and I could look into please? Are there any other tests which I could perform to see if the problem is me or not?

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  • Bad Intel DQ965GF motherboard? Fails memtest, but memory is good.

    - by Boden
    I've got a machine with a DQ965GF motherboard. Two days ago it started locking up hard. Ran memtest 3.3, 1.7, and TestMem 4. TestMem just freezes, memtest failed on moving 8 bit inversions. Letting memtest run eventually causes the system to restart. I pulled memory sticks one by one, and then replaced the memory with a couple of known good sticks. No luck. I switched power supplies, didn't help. Swapped video cards just to be safe. No help. When I start the machine I get a single beep before it POSTs. According to the manual, a single beep means: 1 beep - Refresh Error (with nothing on the screen and it is not a video problem) I'm assuming that the motherboard has failed since it's obviously not a RAM or power issue. Do you agree? NOTE: I also tried resetting BIOS defaults, and even flashed the BIOS to the latest version. I also ran the Mersenne Prime Test and the CPU seems to click along just fine. (Tried logging in to superuser with openid but it's not working for me today. Hope this gets through)

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