Search Results

Search found 21184 results on 848 pages for 'cable internet'.

Page 568/848 | < Previous Page | 564 565 566 567 568 569 570 571 572 573 574 575  | Next Page >

  • Routing WIFI and LAN for specific traffic

    - by jakebird451
    I have two network devices aboard my macbook pro: WIFI (en1): Used for general traffic. Connects to an ip of 192.168.19.* via DHCP LAN (en0): Used for specific traffic. Connects to an ip of 192.168.2.10 as a static IP. Does not connect to a router, only a switch for direct routing connection. I have 4 IP addresses I need to access on the LAN: 192.168.2.1 192.168.2.21 192.168.2.20 192.168.2.30 The rest of the traffic needs to go to WIFI. I have tried setting up a routing table for the specific ip addresses, but I only managed to mess up my network. I do not venture out into the world of networking too often, but this was the latest command I have been trying: sudo route add -host 192.168.2.30 -interface en0 This command killed my ability to use ping. It told me that ping could not allocate memory (is that even possible)? It also killed my wifi access. Logging out and back in fixed the issue. I really do not mind to make this solution permanent, so I am fine with a temporary routing. EDIT: If I currently have been trying: sudo route flush sudo route add default 192.168.19.1 This gets everything to work for about a minute. But after such minute it "forgets" the routing to WiFi while retaining LAN's (en0) routing. If I unplug and replug my LAN (en0) cable, the process works for another minute.

    Read the article

  • I must clear my cmos to be able to boot

    - by Fredou
    I have this Asus p7p55d-e pro for about 8 months(got it last July) and for this last 3-4 days I cannot boot without clearing my CMOS what I have is: Seasonic M12D 750W ASUS P7P55D-E Pro Intel Core i5 760 Quad Core Processor Lynnfield LGA1156 XFX GeForce® 8800 GT Alpha Dog 512MB DDR3 Standard (PV-T88P-YDF4) 2x Corsair XMS3 CMX4GX3M2A1600C7 4GB DDR3 2X2GB DDR3-1600 CL 7-8-7-20 I tried to remove all the unnecessary stuff: HD/dvd/pci card/usb cable/etc I tried with only 1 dimm filled, instead of my 4, each one individually it didn't work I tried changing the battery, here goes a few dollars to nowhere, didn't work if I don't reset the CMOS it sometime stock on RAM led, sometime on BOOT DEVICE led, when this happen, it stuck on CPU speed detection when I boot right after the reset, i MUST click on the F2 option (boot with default bios setting) if i go into the bios and save/restart, i have to reset it again when booted, everything is rock solid stable, tried memtest, cpu stress, etc, etc. without issue what should be my next step? trying a new psu? (i need to find one..) doing rma? (i need this mb since it's my only computer...) something else?

    Read the article

  • Le bataille du chiffrement fait rage pour Google en Inde, les autorités locales demandent à accéder aux données privées de Gmail

    Le bataille du chiffrement fait rage pour Google en Inde, les autorités locales demandent à accéder aux données privées de Gmail Google est en train de passer un mauvais quart d'heure en Inde. Les autorités locales y sont plutôt irritées et cherchent à mettre leur nez partout. Au cours de l'année, elles ont déjà fortement agacé RIM (en tentant d'avoir accès aux données des utilisateurs de BlackBerry avec une deadline au 31 janvier). Le gouvernement du pays demande à obtenir des informations techniques sur le chiffrement mis en oeuvre. Désormais, le Ministère de l'Intérieur local veut étendre ses prérogatives à l'Internet, et demande expressément à Google de lui livrer les informations de chiffrement relatives à son client Gmail ; e...

    Read the article

  • Long Gigabit Ethernet Run

    - by Timothy R. Butler
    I am trying to get an Gig-E network between two buildings that are approximately 260 ft. away. While some TRENDnet switches failed to be able to connect to each other over Cat 6 at that distance, two Netgear 5-port Gig-E switches do so just fine. However, it still fails after I put in place APC PNET1GB ethernet surge protectors at each end before the line connects to the respective switches. So I find myself wondering if I simply need to find a better surge protector that doesn't degrade the signal as much (if so, what kind would you recommend?) or if I should give up on copper and use fiber between the buildings. If I opt to go the latter route, I could really use some pointers. It looks like LC connectors are the most common, but I keep running into some others as well. A media converter on each end seems like the simplest solution, but perhaps a Gig-E switch with an SFP port would make more sense? Given a very limited budget, sticking with my existing copper seems best, but if it is bound to be a headache, a 100 meter fiber cable is something I think I can swing cost wise.

    Read the article

  • Export Outlook Express XP into Outlook 2007 Windows 7

    - by Jason Moore
    I've searched the forum and it seems my need is a little different than the posts which have already been made. I have an old XP laptop which I was using Outlook Express for one of my mail accounts (a work account). I also ran regular Outlook for another (personal). I want to have both of these accounts on my new PC. My new PC is running Windows 7 wiht Office 2007. I used the Windows transfer cable and things worked failry well. My regular Outlook files all came over well, but nothing for Outlook Express. I really would like to take this time to somehow export my OE files into my Outlook 2007. I would really like to keep the account which imported in on Outlook seperate. Question 1: Is there a way to import my OE files into Outlook 2007? Question 2: Is there a way to have two seperate email accounts in Outlook without combining them? Basically I want to have a work email and a personal and keep them seperate. If I can't have two seperate emails with Outlook, can anyone suggest something which would allow me to export my old Outlook (the old personal emails) into another program so that I can at least use my work email on Outlook 2007? Hopefully this isn't too confusing.

    Read the article

  • [GEEK SCHOOL] Network Security 3: Windows Defender and a Malware-Free System

    - by Ciprian Rusen
    In this second lesson we are going to talk about one of the most confusing security products that are bundled with Windows: Windows Defender. In the past, this product has had a bad reputation and for good reason – it was very limited in its capacity to protect your computer from real-world malware. However, the latest version included in Windows 8.x operating systems is much different than in the past and it provides real protection to its users. The nice thing about Windows Defender in its current incarnation, is that it protects your system from the start, so there are never gaps in coverage. We will start this lesson by explaining what Windows Defender is in Windows 7 and Vista versus what it is in Windows 8, and what product to use if you are using an earlier version. We next will explore how to use Windows Defender, how to improve its default settings, and how to deal with the alerts that it displays. As you will see, Windows Defender will have you using its list of quarantined items a lot more often than other security products. This is why we will explain in detail how to work with it and remove malware for good or restore those items that are only false alarms. Lastly, you will learn how to turn off Windows Defender if you no longer want to use it and you prefer a third-party security product in its place and then how to enable it back, if you have changed your mind about using it. Upon completion, you should have a thorough understanding of your system’s default anti-malware options, or how to protect your system expeditiously. What is Windows Defender? Unfortunately there is no one clear answer to this question because of the confusing way Microsoft has chosen to name its security products. Windows Defender is a different product, depending on the Windows operating system you are using. If you use Windows Vista or Windows 7, then Windows Defender is a security tool that protects your computer from spyware. This but one form of malware made out of tools and applications that monitor your movements on the Internet or the activities you make on your computer. Spyware tends to send the information that is collected to a remote server and it is later used in all kinds of malicious purposes, from displaying advertising you don’t want, to using your personal data, etc. However, there are many other types of malware on the Internet and this version of Windows Defender is not able to protect users from any of them. That’s why, if you are using Windows 7 or earlier, we strongly recommend that you disable Windows Defender and install a more complete security product like Microsoft Security Essentials, or third-party security products from specialized security vendors. If you use Windows 8.x operating systems, then Windows Defender is the same thing as Microsoft Security Essentials: a decent security product that protects your computer in-real time from viruses and spyware. The fact that this product protects your computer also from viruses, not just from spyware, makes a huge difference. If you don’t want to pay for security products, Windows Defender in Windows 8.x and Microsoft Security Essentials (in Windows 7 or earlier) are good alternatives. Windows Defender in Windows 8.x and Microsoft Security Essentials are the same product, only their name is different. In this lesson, we will use the Windows Defender version from Windows 8.x but our instructions apply also to Microsoft Security Essentials (MSE) in Windows 7 and Windows Vista. If you want to download Microsoft Security Essentials and try it out, we recommend you to use this page: Download Microsoft Security Essentials. There you will find both 32-bit and 64-bit editions of this product as well versions in multiple languages. How to Use and Configure Windows Defender Using Windows Defender (MSE) is very easy to use. To start, search for “defender” on the Windows 8.x Start screen and click or tap the “Windows Defender” search result. In Windows 7, search for “security” in the Start Menu search box and click “Microsoft Security Essentials”. Windows Defender has four tabs which give you access to the following tools and options: Home – here you can view the security status of your system. If everything is alright, then it will be colored in green. If there are some warnings to consider, then it will be colored in yellow, and if there are threats that must be dealt with, everything will be colored in red. On the right side of the “Home” tab you will find options for scanning your computer for viruses and spyware. On the bottom of the tab you will find information about when the last scan was performed and what type of scan it was. Update – here you will find information on whether this product is up-to-date. You will learn when it was last updated and the versions of the definitions it is using. You can also trigger a manual update. History – here you can access quarantined items, see which items you’ve allowed to run on your PC even if they were identified as malware by Windows Defender, and view a complete list with all the malicious items Windows Defender has detected on your PC. In order to access all these lists and work with them, you need to be signed in as an administrator. Settings – this is the tab where you can turn on the real-time protection service, exclude files, file types, processes, and locations from its scans as well as access a couple of more advanced settings. The only difference between Windows Defender in Windows 8.x and Microsoft Security Essentials (in Windows 7 or earlier) is that, in the “Settings” tab, Microsoft Security Essentials allows you to set when to run scheduled scans while Windows Defender lacks this option.

    Read the article

  • Using pre-made patch cables on a punch down block?

    - by Trevor Harrison
    I need to add a 24 port switch to my wiring closet. In the (distant) past, I usually just punched each port of the switch to a 110 block on the wall (using hand-made cables), and cross connect between that and the 110 block that has the runs to each workstation. To save time, I'm thinking of buying 12 pre-made drop cables, cutting them in half (so 24 single ended cables), and punching those to my 110 block. The things I'm worried about are wire type (ie. solid vs. strands) and color scheme. I really don't know if they use different wire types (still?), but I remember that being an issue at one point. Can anyone comment on this? (I definitely won't feel comfortable trying to punch stranded wiring on my 110 block) Also, picking up a random pre-built cable I had laying around, I noticed that the color scheme used didn't appear to be T568B, but T568A, which would clash with the rest of my wall. Anyone know of an online source that specifies these things? I've looked at www.cablesforless.com (which does have nicer prices) and www.cablestogo.com (which seem stupid expensive) so far. Cables For Less doesn't specify wiring scheme, Cables To Go does specify T568B. Both seem to specify stranded wires instead of solid.

    Read the article

  • GDL Presents: Van Gogh Meets Alan Turing

    GDL Presents: Van Gogh Meets Alan Turing How can art and daily life be joined together? Host Ido Green chats with creators Uri Shaked & Tom Teman about tackling this question with their "Music Room" -- a case study in the power of Android -- and with Emmanuel Witzthum on his project "Dissolving Realities," which aims to connect the virtual environment of the Internet using Google Street View. Host: Ido Green, Developer Advocate Guests: Uri Shaked and Emmanuel Witzthum From: GoogleDevelopers Views: 0 0 ratings Time: 00:00 More in Science & Technology

    Read the article

  • Can find any /.ecryptfs dir to retrieve my encrypted home dir

    - by Roberto de Armas
    At firs sorry for my english, it isn't my native languaje. I've readed some questions similar but no the exactly whith the same problem. I've moved my home directory to a separated partitión (Ubuntu 11.10) following this tutorial http://www.ubuntu-es.org/node/58233 After checking that they were all my files and folders (forgetting that one of dirs was encrypted by ecryptfs) i've installed fedora 16. Well, suprised when in my home folder was an Readme.txt advising me that my folder was unmounted for security reasons and proposing to type in comand line "ecryptfs-mount-Private" (din't work) or make click on labeled icon "acces your private data desktop" (neither din't work). After three days reading all i could find on the internet, i follow The Dustin Kirkland tutorial in http://blog.dustinkirkland.com/2011/04/introducing-ecryptfs-recover-private.html, but any /.ecryptfs was found. I'm sure that the data are somewere (the size of the moved dir is identical to the original one). Any help would by greatly appreciated. Thaks a lot.

    Read the article

  • LTO 2 tape performance in LTO 3 drive

    - by hmallett
    I have a pile of LTO 2 tapes, and both an LTO 2 drive (HP Ultrium 460e), and an autoloader with an LTO 3 drive in (Tandberg T24 autoloader, with a HP drive). Performance of the LTO 2 tapes in the LTO 2 drive is adequate and consistent. HP L&TT tells me that the tapes can be read and written at 64 MB/s, which seems in line with the performance specifications of the drive. When I perform a backup (over the network) using Symantec Backup Exec, I get about 1700 MB/min backup and verify speeds, which is slower, but still adequate. Performance of the LTO 2 tapes in the LTO 3 drive in the autoloader is a different story. HP L&TT tells me that the tapes can be read at 82 MB/s and written at 49 MB/s, which seems unusual at the write speed drop, but not the end of the world. When I perform a backup (over the network) using Symantec Backup Exec though, I get about 331 MB/min backup speed and 205 MB/min verify speeds, which is not only much slower, but also much slower for reads than for writes. Notes: The comparison testing was done on the same server, SCSI card and SCSI cable, with the same backup data set and the same tape each time. The tape and drives are error-free (according to HP L&TT and Backup Exec). The SCSI card is a U160 card, which is not normally recommended for LTO 3, but we're not writing to LTO 3 tapes at LTO 3 speeds, and a U320 SCSI card is not available to me at the moment. As I'm scratching my head to determine the reason for the performance drop, my first question is: While LTO drives can write to the previous generation LTO tapes, does doing so normally incur a performance penalty?

    Read the article

  • unix systems programming jobs in India [closed]

    - by mnunna
    Hi, I am currently working on a HP-UX platform and my role as a prod support team member involves mostly to write shell scripts. But i want to branch out into core systems programming in unix. A quick search on the internet threw no "unix systems programming jobs" in india. I'm confused as what to do. I really would like to continue with unix as my core competency, but unix jobs in india are mostly of sys admin/ prod support type, of which i do not want a part of. Can anyone of you give me an informed advice on the career oppurtinities that await unix professionals in india?? Any advice would be appreciated.

    Read the article

  • Wireless iwconfig rate auto too low

    - by Jamie Kitson
    Hi, left to its own devices my wireless connects at too low a speed. I have a 20meg internet connection and my wireless is slowing it down to like 3meg. When I reboot into windows it's fine. When I run iwconfig eth1 rate 24M or even 48M the connection is much faster and runs fine, why won't it automatically go higher? Is this the fault of the driver? I am running Broadcom's driver compiled from source. Would adding iwconfig eth1 rate 24M to rc.local be the right way to force it at boot? Output from iwconfig when rate=auto: eth1 IEEE 802.11 ESSID:"honeypot" Mode:Managed Frequency:2.417 GHz Access Point: xxx Bit Rate=1 Mb/s Tx-Power:24 dBm Retry min limit:7 RTS thr:off Fragment thr:off Encryption key:off Power Management:off Link Quality=5/5 Signal level=-47 dBm Noise level=-91 dBm Rx invalid nwid:0 Rx invalid crypt:2 Rx invalid frag:0 Tx excessive retries:0 Invalid misc:0 Missed beacon:0 Thanks, Jamie

    Read the article

  • Why do I get this message from chrome when navigating to https://www.amazon.com?

    - by Denis
    This is probably not the site you are looking for! You attempted to reach www.amazon.com, but instead you actually reached a server identifying itself as *.voxcdn.com. This may be caused by a misconfiguration on the server or by something more serious. An attacker on your network could be trying to get you to visit a fake (and potentially harmful) version of www.amazon.com. Intermittently, I get a blank page when going to http://www.amazon.com. So I stuck an 's' in the URL, making it https://www.amazon.com and got that message above (with the nice red screen) from Chrome indicating there might be some monkey business going on. After hammering on the URL a bunch of times and pulling it up in Chrome's developer tool to look at the network traffic on it, the url (without the s) started behaving. The url with the s just hangs, but the red screen no longer comes up. Some specs... I've got a macBook Pro, Snow Leopard, Time Warner cable. I've had enough strange stuff happening over the past couple months (google.com, youtube.com, amazon.com not coming up or loading strange error messages with random reference numbers) that I finally decided to switch to OpenDNS. Still having problems, though.

    Read the article

  • Need Drivers for D-link DWA 525 PCI Wireless adapter

    - by Hari
    I'm using Ubuntu 12.10 32-Bit Edition. I have racently purchased D-link DWA 525 PCI Wireless Adapter. But i can't find the drivers for the adapter. I have been searching in internet for a while. Tried many options, including ndiswrapper. When i run lspci command, it detects and shows as below. 04:00.0 Network controller: Ralink corp. RT5360 Wireless 802.11n 1T/1R My kernel version is 3.5.0-18-generic. Please help me out.

    Read the article

  • Can I do an install onto a 4GB usb stick which is smaller than the recommended installation size?

    - by Radek
    I've read through this question: How do I install Ubuntu to a USB key? So I am aware how to install Ubuntu onto a USB stick. I'm also aware that the minimum recommended HDD requirement for ubuntu is 5GB. my question is specifically, can I squeeze the install of Ubuntu 11.10 onto a 4GB usb stick? Can I do so without downloading alternate version of Ubuntu? All I want is firefox wi-fi What I have live USB of Ubuntu 11.10 notebook without hdd internet access 4GB usb stick The reason why I need full install is to install new programs (skype) and do upgrade (of flash player)

    Read the article

  • Synergy on macbook with osx mavericks wifi connection

    - by user332956
    I'm trying to set up Synergy with my macbook pro running OS X 10.9.3 as a client and my Windows 7 desktop as a server. I'm having some pretty bad connection problems though when I try to use my mac. Every couple seconds the mouse or the keyboard will stop working entirely then come back. I ran some tests and found that the ping from my desktop to my mac would be very high every third ping or so(1000+ ms) or sometimes even time out. If I ping my desktop from my mac the pings are all reasonably low. I believe that this is a power saving feature of Mavericks and I have found a way to get around it by continually pinging my router on my mac, keeping my wifi card from going to sleep. I'm using this right now to type this up with synergy and have had zero issues. Has anyone else ran into this issue and found a better solution? So far, I think my best bet would be to buy an ethernet adapter but I'd rather not have yet another cable running across my desk.

    Read the article

  • MythTV GUI problems

    - by oli206
    Hi, I'm using MythTV to watch TV on my ubuntu computer and I'm having a problem with the resolution. It seems that the GUI resolution is matched with the channel resolution, so If I'm watching a HD channel, I get a nice GUI but If I'm watching a SD channel, then it's crap. A couple of screenshots to show the difference: High Definition Channel: Standard Definition Channel: I haven't found any similar issue in the internet and neither an option in the settings menu of MythTV (backend and frontend). I have another small problem that you can see in the first screenshot, the channel name is cut (it shows "Telemadri" and the last letter is not completely shown). Anyone know how can I fix this too? Thanks in advance

    Read the article

  • Hints on diagnosing performance issue in OpenBSD firewall

    - by Tom
    My OpenBSD 4.6 pf firewall has started having really bad performance in the past few weeks. I've isolated the firewall (as opposed to the WAN connection, switch, cable, etc.) as the problem, but need a hint on how to further diagnose or fix the problem. The facts: Normal setup is: DSL Modem - FW Ext. NIC - FW Int. NIC - Switch - Laptop Normal setup described above gives only 25 Kbps! Plugging the laptop straight from the DSL modem gives a 1 MBps connection (full speed, as advertised). Therefore, the DSL connection seems to be OK. Plugging the laptop directly into the firewall's internal NIC (bypassing the switch) also gives only 25 Kbps. Therefore, the switch does not seem to be a problem. I've replaced the ethernet cables, but it didn't help. Here's the weird thing. Reloading the ruleset (/sbin/pfctl -Fa -f /etc/pf.conf) causes the laptop's connection to go up to 1 Mbps (i.e. full speed) for a few minutes before it gradually degrades back down to 25Kbps again. Any ideas on what's wrong or how I could further diagnose the problem?

    Read the article

  • Setup basic proxypass in Apache

    - by Eric
    I have a web application that communicates to a web service deployed on the same server. The web app was written with Tibco General Interface and works well only when it is running locally on the development system. When I deploy the web app to the Apache server it fails with code 200 apparently due to cross domain data. I use Firefox as a browser. I have tried changing Internet Explorer to access cross domain data and it works however IE is not an option. Web application runs on 192.168.2.205 (port 80). Web service runs on 192.168.2.205:8040 I have tried a number of things with proxypass inside Apache with no luck.

    Read the article

  • Add an Image Properties Listing to the Context Menu in Chrome and Iron

    - by Asian Angel
    Is the lack of an Image Properties listing in the Context Menu of your favorite Chromium-based browser driving you crazy? If you have been missing this extremely useful function, then the Image Properties Context Menu extension is here to save the day. As soon as you get the extension installed you can start enjoying access to image property information as seen here. Very nice! Image Properties Context Menu [via Shankar Ganesh (@shankargan)] Latest Features How-To Geek ETC How To Make Hundreds of Complex Photo Edits in Seconds With Photoshop Actions How to Enable User-Specific Wireless Networks in Windows 7 How to Use Google Chrome as Your Default PDF Reader (the Easy Way) How To Remove People and Objects From Photographs In Photoshop Ask How-To Geek: How Can I Monitor My Bandwidth Usage? Internet Explorer 9 RC Now Available: Here’s the Most Interesting New Stuff Never Call Me at Work [Humorous Star Wars Video] Add an Image Properties Listing to the Context Menu in Chrome and Iron Add an Easy to View Notification Badge to Tabs in Firefox SpellBook Parks Bookmarklets in Chrome’s Context Menu Drag2Up Brings Multi-Source Drag and Drop Uploading to Firefox Enchanted Swing in the Forest Wallpaper

    Read the article

  • USB To Serial under OpenSuse 11.3

    - by Exsisto
    I have a LogiLink USB-To-Serial adapter. This has the PL2303 chip inside. When I insert the device: [26064.927083] usb 7-1: new full speed USB device using uhci_hcd and address 9 [26065.076090] usb 7-1: New USB device found, idVendor=067b, idProduct=2303 [26065.076099] usb 7-1: New USB device strings: Mfr=1, Product=2, SerialNumber=0 [26065.076105] usb 7-1: Product: USB-Serial Controller [26065.076110] usb 7-1: Manufacturer: Prolific Technology Inc. [26065.079181] pl2303 7-1:1.0: pl2303 converter detected [26065.091296] usb 7-1: pl2303 converter now attached to ttyUSB0 So the device is recognized and the converter is attached to ttyUSB0. When I do screen /dev/ttyUSB0 9600 I get the error: bash: /dev/ttyUSB0: Permission denied So I went looking in the file permissions. ls -l from the /dev folder reports: crw-rw---- 1 root dialout 188, 0 2011-04-26 15:47 ttyUSB0 I added my user lars to the dialout group. When I use the commands groups under lars it shows that I'm in the group. Though I still recieve the permissions denied error, as lars, and as root. I'm trying to connect to a console cable to configure some Cisco switches. My OS is OpenSuse 11.3 x86_64 with kernel version 2.6.34.7-0.7-desktop.

    Read the article

  • DHCP Server on local machine

    - by EralpB
    Hello I am trying to setup a dhcp3-server on Ubuntu. But my question is more generic, if dhcp server is in a blockbox and all clients are connected to it I think I get what is going on but when dhcp server is installed on one of the "clients" that confuses me. When I send a dhcp packet from that client to the dhcp server, will my ethernet card read and write at the same time? Or will it handle it internally without writing any data to ethernet cable. It's the first time I am encountering these network things so I am a little bit confused. Also I wonder If I am in a big network with lan IP let's say 192.168.0.100 and I install a dhcp server to my computer, can any other computers accidentally get IP from my dhcp server? Every computer has one ethernet card (if that matters?). And every computer is connected to one router. I guess the answer is no because the broadcast message won't reach to my computer since when router receives a dhcp search packet it will answer and it won't let other computers know about it because they don't need to. And without router sending that packet one by one, it cannot travel further. I'd be glad if someone enlightens me. Thank you very much.

    Read the article

  • What determines what resolutions a laptop is willing to output over VGA?

    - by Joshua McKinnon
    I'm responsible for several conference rooms and have setup 1080p projectors and I provide both HDMI and VGA connectivity. HDMI for DisplayPort and Mini-DisplayPort, and VGA as a fallback, universal option. Contrary to what I expected, people seem to have much more trouble with the HDMI than VGA, so VGA gets used a lot more than you'd think (even as most workstation laptops made in the last 3-4 years have DisplayPort or Mini-DisplayPort...). Also to my surprise, VGA outputs over 1080p on a 50ft cable run with very minimal degradation on certain laptops - other laptops just don't offer 1080p as a resolution choice and top out at 1600x1200 or something else. Specific example: a ThinkPad W530 will do 1080p, a W520 won't, over VGA. (both do 1080p over displayport/mini-DP) What determines what resolutions a laptop is willing to output over VGA? I'm thinking this will come down to either a video driver that says it supports only certain resolutions for output, or limitations of the RAMDAC (which wouldn't be in play, at least DAC wise, on a digital output, but WOULD on VGA, an analog output). The basic reason for the question is that I noticed, say, a ThinkPad W520 with 1080p built in display, will output 1080p fine over DisplayPort to a 1080p projector, but will cap out at 1600x1200 (practically the same pixel count, just a little shy) on VGA. Now, this wouldn't be surprising at all except SOME laptops have no issue outputting 1080p over VGA, even with lower native resolutions. Why do I care? Well if there's some way I could enable it... for situations where my users end up using VGA anyway, it's preferable for display mirroring if they can output their laptop's native resolution, which, you guessed it, is very often 1080p on 15" models. DISCLAIMER: This is primarily a curiosity, I'm not claiming 1080p over VGA is ideal by any means, but hey, if it works. I've seen HDMI start artifacting more over same-length, same gauge cabling (up to 50' run in certain rooms). If you think this is better suited to SuperUser, please move it, but this is framed from an IT standpoint of something that affects a real pool of users in a multiple conference room, 50+ deployed laptop scenario.

    Read the article

  • Torchlight II Drops Today; New Classes and Miles of Atmospheric Dungeon Crawling Await

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    Torchlight II, sequel to the extremely popular Torchlight action-RPG, is available for sale today. With four new classes and a massively expanded world, you’ll have plenty to explore. The new release features extra classes, extra companion creatures, in-game weather systems, and of course: updated graphics and a massively expanded game universe. Trumping all these additions, however, is LAN/internet co-op multiplayer–by far the feature most requested and anticipated by Torchlight fans. Check out the trailer video above to take a peak at the game, read more about it at the Torchlight II site, and then hit up the link below to grab a copy on Steam–you can pre-order it any time but it won’t be officially available for download until 2PM EST, today. Torchlight II is Windows-only, $19.99 for a single copy or $59.99 for a friend 4-pack (which includes a copy of Torchlight I). Torchlight II How To Create a Customized Windows 7 Installation Disc With Integrated Updates How to Get Pro Features in Windows Home Versions with Third Party Tools HTG Explains: Is ReadyBoost Worth Using?

    Read the article

  • How to Use Steam In-Home Streaming

    - by Chris Hoffman
    Steam’s In-Home Streaming is now available to everyone, allowing you to stream PC games from one PC to another PC on the same local network. Use your gaming PC to power your laptops and home theater system. This feature doesn’t allow you to stream games over the Internet, only the same local network. Even if you tricked Steam, you probably wouldn’t get good streaming performance over the Internet. Why Stream? When you use Steam In-Home streaming, one PC sends its video and audio to another PC. The other PC views the video and audio like it’s watching a movie, sending back mouse, keyboard, and controller input to the other PC. This allows you to have a fast gaming PC power your gaming experience on slower PCs. For example, you could play graphically demanding games on a laptop in another room of your house, even if that laptop has slower integrated graphics. You could connect a slower PC to your television and use your gaming PC without hauling it into a different room in your house. Streaming also enables cross-platform compatibility. You could have a Windows gaming PC and stream games to a Mac or Linux system. This will be Valve’s official solution for compatibility with old Windows-only games on the Linux (Steam OS) Steam Machines arriving later this year. NVIDIA offers their own game streaming solution, but it requires certain NVIDIA graphics hardware and can only stream to an NVIDIA Shield device. How to Get Started In-Home Streaming is simple to use and doesn’t require any complex configuration — or any configuration, really. First, log into the Steam program on a Windows PC. This should ideally be a powerful gaming PC with a powerful CPU and fast graphics hardware. Install the games you want to stream if you haven’t already — you’ll be streaming from your PC, not from Valve’s servers. (Valve will eventually allow you to stream games from Mac OS X, Linux, and Steam OS systems, but that feature isn’t yet available. You can still stream games to these other operating systems.) Next, log into Steam on another computer on the same network with the same Steam username. Both computers have to be on the same subnet of the same local network. You’ll see the games installed on your other PC in the Steam client’s library. Click the Stream button to start streaming a game from your other PC. The game will launch on your host PC, and it will send its audio and video to the PC in front of you. Your input on the client will be sent back to the server. Be sure to update Steam on both computers if you don’t see this feature. Use the Steam > Check for Updates option within Steam and install the latest update. Updating to the latest graphics drivers for your computer’s hardware is always a good idea, too. Improving Performance Here’s what Valve recommends for good streaming performance: Host PC: A quad-core CPU for the computer running the game, minimum. The computer needs enough processor power to run the game, compress the video and audio, and send it over the network with low latency. Streaming Client: A GPU that supports hardware-accelerated H.264 decoding on the client PC. This hardware is included on all recent laptops and PCs. Ifyou have an older PC or netbook, it may not be able to decode the video stream quickly enough. Network Hardware: A wired network connection is ideal. You may have success with wireless N or AC networks with good signals, but this isn’t guaranteed. Game Settings: While streaming a game, visit the game’s setting screen and lower the resolution or turn off VSync to speed things up. In-Home Steaming Settings: On the host PC, click Steam > Settings and select In-Home Streaming to view the In-Home Streaming settings. You can modify your streaming settings to improve performance and reduce latency. Feel free to experiment with the options here and see how they affect performance — they should be self-explanatory. Check Valve’s In-Home Streaming documentation for troubleshooting information. You can also try streaming non-Steam games. Click Games > Add a Non-Steam Game to My Library on your host PC and add a PC game you have installed elsewhere on your system. You can then try streaming it from your client PC. Valve says this “may work but is not officially supported.” Image Credit: Robert Couse-Baker on Flickr, Milestoned on Flickr

    Read the article

< Previous Page | 564 565 566 567 568 569 570 571 572 573 574 575  | Next Page >