Search Results

Search found 19676 results on 788 pages for 'hardware interface'.

Page 111/788 | < Previous Page | 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118  | Next Page >

  • Weird RAM Upgrade Experience

    - by Axel Isouard
    I have a laptop, HP EliteBook 8540p having originally 4GB RAM and I've recently bought Corsair Value Select SO-DIMM 16 Go (2x 8 Go) DDR3 1333 MHz. It fits the required RAM specifications perfectly, and once I've inserted them, the BIOS recognizes the memory correctly, but my linux Gentoo running on kernel 3.1.6 SMP x86_64 crashes immediately when I'm running an app which consumes a lot of memory. The laptop crashes as if there's no more battery left, when the memory reaches at least 6000MB ram. Windows 7 doesn't want to run anymore, it shows a blue screen with the IRQ LESS OR EQUAL error if I set 8GB, and it doesn't boot at all if I set 16GB. Is there something I could do to fix this please ?

    Read the article

  • Broken Motherboard Trace

    - by CoffeeBean
    When you're fairly certain that a motherboard trace is broken near the CPU (i.e.: you suspect heatsink / fan was improperly inserted) is it advisable to attempt a repair? I've heard that it can be done using a substance for repairing embedded windshield defoggers. Has anyone had any experience with this?

    Read the article

  • Jumbo Frames on DIR-655

    - by Spookyone
    Hello, I am trying to set up jumbo frames on my gigabit home LAN but no luck so far. My setup is: D-Link DIR-655 router, HW Revision A3, Firmware 1.21 EU Synology DS107+, Firmware 3.0-1337 Laptop w/ Win7 x64, external PCIx NIC managed by "Generic Marvel Yukon 88E8053 based Ethernet Controller" The router is supposed to support jumbo frames but doesn't feature any relevant setting. I set the Jumbo Packet value to 9000 on both the NIC and the Synobox but it doesn't work, ping -f -l 8972 says "Packet needs to be fragmented but DF set". Is there any other setting I overlooked, the DIR-655 doesn't actually support jumbo frames, or what else could be the problem?

    Read the article

  • Simple electric DC question. Currency consumption

    - by Bobb
    Suppose you have DC power supply and a consumer connected to it (i.e. computer PSU and a hard drive). Suppose PSU which was supplied with the consumer has output 5V 1A. So I assume that the consumer should not consume more than 1A. Suppose the original PSU is broken now and I want to replace it with the one I have which is 5V 10A. My guess is that current is something which depends on the consumer. So if the consumer consumes normally 1A then it will not consume more than that even if it is connected to 10A PSU. In other word - am I right assuming that the consumer will not burn out being connected to a power supply with higher current output? P.S. my understanding is that voltage is something independent from the consumer. If you give it higher voltage it will burn (voltage is from PSU to the consumer). However current must be in opposite - consumer sucks as much current as it need not as much as PSU can provide (of course given that max PSU current is greater than the consumer needs)

    Read the article

  • How cpu writes data to dynamic RAM

    - by Krit
    Hello, I would like to know what kind of electrical signals does a cpu send to a dynamic RAM when it wants to write one bit (a 1 or 0). Is it simply that cpu sends just a single electric pulse, and if that electric pulse's voltage is higher than a certain level, it charges the capacitor to a voltage level that is "1" and if it is at a lower voltage band, it charges capacitor to level that it is "0"?

    Read the article

  • My MacBook Pro (2011) is dead

    - by Dave
    I connected my Sony digital camera with the MacBook and the screen turned black. I wonder why because the Sony camera was not on at the time and technically could not be accessed. So I thought it might be temporary and I turned on my camera. Well, it did not work, but my MacBook Pro has been dead since then. It will not turn on - when I hold the power button for five seconds, nothing happens. When I connect the charger cable, the green light is very dim and blinks a little (with about 20% illumination). I wonder what the problem is. I have to call Apple Care, but just so that I know, what could be wrong? Is my MacBook permanently dead? It might be under warranty but I am not sure.

    Read the article

  • Formatting a 5.25" floppy disk

    - by Spütnik
    So after the massive trouble of finding a 5.25" floppy drive and a connecting it up, then changing the BIOS so it's set as my A: drive, I tried to format a couple of high-density 1.2MB floppy disks using the "format A:" command in Command Prompt. Both times it formatted only 160KB and left it at that. If I then check the amount of space on those disks, it then comes up as 160KB. Why is this the case? How can I get my the full value out of my 1.2MB? For reference, I have a Mitsubishi MF504C-318UG, which should support 1.2MB disks.

    Read the article

  • Is there a USB ethernet (wired) adapter that is really compatible with Windows 7 64-bit?

    - by nbolton
    I've checked the Windows 7 compatibility site, and it lists a fair few USB ethernet (wired, not wireless) adapters that should work with Windows 7 64-bit. However, whenever I Google for the model number and Windows 7 64-bit, there's many forum posts claiming that the devices actually don't work with 64-bit (but do work with 32-bit). I've actually also found this with the LUPO USB ethernet adapter; works with 32-bit win7, but not 64-bit (no drivers available). So is there anyone out there who is 100% certain, and have actually used successfully, a 64-bit win7 capable USB ethernet adapter?

    Read the article

  • HP Pavillion dv6 laptop - 15 beeps on startup and a black screen?

    - by dunc
    Usual story - girlfriend's step-brother's laptop is broken. I don't know a huge amount about what occurred before it broke, but I do know the following: When you try to turn the laptop on, it beeps 15 times exactly. The screen remains black. The LED on the Caps Lock key flashes continuously. If left on, the laptop never boots - as far as I can see. If left on, on a stable surface with decent ventilation for a relatively short period of time, the laptop (below keyboard, but not where the RAM/HDD are) gets very hot. I've tried doing what most websites appear to recommend for similar problems, which is to disconnect AC and battery then hold the power button down for a minute before reconnecting the AC and trying to turn the laptop on - no difference. EDIT I've also tried re-seating the RAM, to no avail. Any ideas? Thanks in advance,

    Read the article

  • FreeBSD after motherboard replacement; should I have any concerns?

    - by cc
    So after three years my motherboard (Asus M2N-0MX) has died off. As I go shopping for i's replacement tomorrow I have a concern about the data that I currently have on the drives wtihin. I'm currently running BSD 6.2, and am wondering if there would be any concern with installing a new OS on that system, would it be better to jsut install the latest BSD version, and are their any pitfalls that I should watch for to make sure I don't end up losing 750gb's of data. The setup consists of the following(to the best of my knowledge): Pioneer DVD drive 3ware RAID card four 250gb SATA drives in RAID 5 config thanks to anyone that can offer some advice, or just to confirm if I am over thinking things.

    Read the article

  • HP Pavilion dv6000 QuickPlay power on

    - by user22559
    Hello I have a question for HP Pavilion dv6000 owners. If your laptop is powered down, and you press the QuickPlay button or the DVD button (NOT the power button), does the laptop start up? More info: I am asking this because I have got a hold of a broken HP dv6000. If I power it up, the power light lights up, and then the laptop powers down. It seems to be because of a broken motherboard. But the laptop does the same thing if you press the QuickPlay or DVD buttons, and I want to know if that's supposed to happen, or if it's something else that is wrong.

    Read the article

  • Recovering data from failed Raid configuration with 4 drives and two raid sets (Asus P6T / Intel ICH10r)

    - by user56365
    I've added the complete detailed version for my question below for those who can help, but want to quickly summarize my question first. I setup two Raid arrays using (4) WD Raptors, a striped set for the OS and 1+0 set for crucial data. After booting once out of the 50 times a cable fell out, the drive wasn't recognized in the array anymore. After trying to fix it, another drive did the same. I now have two drives remaining, luckily with the parity information. I know the striped set is gone, but I need the data on the other set. Can anyone recommend anything to recover the data, or fix the two drives that doesn't allow the raid controller to recognize the drives, even though they are listed on the utility screen as still apart of the configuration but that they are not found? More Details I recently upgraded to a ASUS P6T motherboard with an Intel ICH10R raid controller and changed my previous 4 drive raid array from strictly a Raid 1+0 set to a Raid 0 for the OS/Page/Scratch drive and a Raid 1+0 set for crucial data. I never had problems after upgrading with my configuration, even when a drive died and was replaced. I managed to rebuild the array fine. Unfortunately this time around, a cable came unattached and I booted my system up until the raid status screen with the degraded error. This shouldn't have been a problem, but after I attached the drive it was no longer recognized as a member in the array. Both drives actually show up as a non-member disk. I've spent a very, very long time online trying to find information or support and haven't had much luck. After spending time trying to scan the drive for errors, damaged partition info, etc.. another drive in the set decided it didn't want to be recognized as a part of the array. At this point, I have two out of the four drives still functioning, but the Raid 1+0 array went from degraded to failed and I must find a way to retrieve that data. I think the two drives still in the array have the parity information because they show up as OS (110GB),BACKUP(80GB) and OS:1(110GB),BACKUP(80GB) under windows data management. The other two are simply 74gb Raw unallocated Is it possible recover the data using those two drive only, and which tool would I use? Could it be a simple partition table or any other error that is repairable with hard drive utilities out there? I know the Raid 0 set is done for, but I would assume because the correct drives failed in a 1+0 config to save the data I can retrieve it some how.

    Read the article

  • 3 wire computer fan won't run continuously

    - by Ben
    I had an old computer that didn't work anymore, so I took the CPU fan out to see what I could make with it. The fan is NMB model number BG0903-B044-VTL, like this. It has three wires coming off of it, red, black, and white. I know that the white wire is usually a speed sensor. Does this wire need to be connected to something in order for the fan to run continuously? Right now when I apply power to the red and black wires (from a 9-volt battery) the fan will spin very briefly, and then slow down until it stops. The fan's motor only spins in the instant that the power is turned on, but doesn't continue, even though the power is still applied. How can I get the fan to spin continuously?

    Read the article

  • Laptop goes black after a minute or so

    - by ZEDA-NL
    I have a laptop that is behaving strangely. When I turn it on, it does everything what it is supposed to do, but after a minute or so I hear a Click and all goes black. It's like it turns off the power. It doesn't matter what the laptop is doing. It also happens when it's just waiting in the Bios setup menu. Has someone experienced this before? Can it be the power supply? Can it be a cooling problem? Any ideas? By the way, it's a Compaq Presario Laptop, maybe 3 years old already.

    Read the article

  • How does one go about fixing a pixelation issue?

    - by Tyler
    I've been having a lot of trouble with pixelation and also in-game display driver crashes. At first I thought the problem may have been my graphics card (Sapphire 5750) but I have RMA'd it three times and I'm still having trouble. So what I think it might be is my PSU, its 650Watt but its made by Azza so it was cheap and not made by a necessarily good company. Or maybe it could be the CPU (AMD Phenom Black Edition 3.4Ghz) It runs hot (60C) but it passes Everest's test. Someone told me it could be the memory (8GB DDR3) but I don't really see how RAM has anything to do with my problem. So what are some of you suggestions? Here is a video a made awhile ago of what is happening. http://www.metacafe.com/watch/4392213/ati_radeon_5750/ That was just a stress test most games tend to just freeze and crash or lock my system up.

    Read the article

  • Computer keeps restarting [closed]

    - by Joris
    I have a strange problem with my desktop pc, when I start it, it just restarts immediately, it displays the bios/motherboard logo and then restarts. I can't access the bios to edit settings because it restarts to fast. Then I tried different things to fix it with mixed success. (I also tried to reset the bios without success) I noticed that a capacity from the graphics card was broken (it looked exploded) so I ordered a new graphics card & plugged it in the computer. It didn't change much, still the same problem. Then I unplugged everything that's not necessary and put only 1Gig RAM in the motherboard (usually it has 4 x 1Gig RAM) and the computer started, then I putted another gig of RAM and the computer still started. (starting=booting windows) When I putted in the 3th RAM it didn't boot anymore (again restarting all the time) so I removed this 3th gig of RAM and this is where it gets weird. I expected the computer to boot again because it is exactly the same configuration as before - which worked - but the computer didn't want to start. It just gave the same problem as before (restarting all the time.. ) Anyone an idea what might be wrong?

    Read the article

  • Why PowerConnect and Juniper are so rare ? Why do enterprises stick with Cisco ?

    - by Kedare
    Hello ! I have a little question, I'm actually studing in IT in France, and when looking on alternative on the very [...] very expensive Cisco equipment, I've found Juniper and DELL PowerConnect pretty attractive on features and price, but I rarely see something else than the classics Cisco/LinkSys, HP Procurve and Netgear.. Why it's so rare to find those switch ? They looks really great but... I've never seen any Juniper or Powerconnect... Why do enterprises stick with the expensive Cisco ? I've tried to find how to buy both, it's quite easy with PowerConnect, everything is on the DELL website, but it looks it's very hard to find Juniper equipment in France :( Thank you !

    Read the article

  • Video card not detected in POST on initial boot.

    - by Jeff M
    I have a minor problem with my desktop computer after cleaning it out for dust. When I first boot up the computer, the video card does not get detected so I can't see anything. In POST, I'm getting the "can't detect video card" beeps. The boot sequence continues normally, just without video. However, if I restart it (using the restart button) anytime after POST, it would boot up normally. I have no reason to think that the motherboard, video card or PSU got damaged in the process. It was working fine before, works fine after resetting. Took all the necessary precautions while cleaning. On the initial boot, I can hear the video card's fan power up but immediately power down and try again one more time only to fail. After the beep, resetting gets everything running and sounding normally. I've reseated the card a couple of times and reset the BIOS but doesn't seem to help. I'm hoping I won't have to take it out and remove and reinstall everything again. Does anyone recognize these symptoms to know exactly what the problem is? My guess is that the video card isn't getting enough juice initially to be running stable to be detected. I just don't know what I did (or didn't do) to get it to be in this state. It's not a high priority thing for me at the moment, just means I have to always reset it after initially turning it on but will eventually remove everything and reinstall if it comes to that. I don't think the specs are relevant here but just in case, here's the relevant stuff: Motherboard: Gigabyte P35-DS3P Video: EVGA GeForce 8600 GTS PSU: Antec True Power Trio 650W Built ~2 years ago, still running well

    Read the article

  • How to build a cheap and fanless server

    - by dag729
    Any advice about how to build a cheap and fanless server? It's main uses would be web and file servering, but it could be a day when I'd like to add some streaming and mailing capabilities as well. OS of choice: GNU/Linux Thanks in advance

    Read the article

< Previous Page | 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118  | Next Page >