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  • Intel HD 4000 driver not working

    - by Sagar Parakh
    I have a Dell Inspiron 15r se 7520. I have upgraded my system to Windows 8.1 few days back. After the upgrade, my Intel HD 4000 graphics driver stopped working. I have downloaded the latest driver from Dell website but during installation it said that my graphics driver is not compatible or validated and also my dedicated graphics driver AMD ATI Raedon HD 7730m also stopped working. There is also a problem with my screen brightness: I am unable to change it. How to make my graphics driver work?

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  • Is there a way to adjust colors of a specific window?

    - by Synetech
    Is there a (Windows) program or something that will allow the user to adjust the brightness/contrast/gamma of a specific window rather than the whole screen? As a use-case scenario, imagine having a web-page showing on one half of the screen, and another program taking up the rest of the screen. This other program uses the default Windows colors (e.g., white background), so it may be glaringly bright. Alternately, the web-page may be too dark to see. Adjusting the monitor or video-card settings would affect everything which will be no good. Adjusting the default Windows colors is, at best, inconvenient. Instead, there needs to be a way to set the colors of one of the windows to equalize the whole screen.

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  • Best monitor for reading

    - by wajed
    Will response rate make a difference? What is good brightness? What is a good contrast ratio? Definitely there are other things to look for, so please give me your opinion. Also, what screen size is good for reading? What size would you choose from 17-22? I'm thinking of getting one 17-19 for reading, and one 22 for movies. Or maybe 2 22" one vertical and one horizontal is better? I think I should look for lower native res., right?

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  • How to disable screens turn off Windows 8.1

    - by Warpzit
    So recently my computer started turning my screen monitors off after a while without activity, if I move the mouse or hit the keyboard they turn back on. I just want them to stay on. My System is windows 8.1 64 bit, I have 2 screens with mini display port and 1 television with hdmi which often is in regular television mode when this issue happens. Now before you jump to conclusions this is what I've tryed: Disabled screen saver Power saving settings to high with following set: Turn of the display: Never Put the computer to sleep: Never Turn off hard disk after: Settings: Never Sleep: Sleep after: Settings: Never Display: Turn off display after: Settings: Never Display: Enable adaptive brightness: Settings: Off Multimedia settings: When sharing media: Settings: Prevent idling to sleep. Any pointers that get me in the right direction will be greatly appreciated.

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  • Asus V1S screen dimming randomly

    - by Bill
    I have an Asus V1V, which is the same as the Asus V1S except for the video card. I have a problem where the screen will randomly lose brightness or flicker between being lit and not lit. The picture below is of the left hinge, with the cover removed. Pressing one of these cables affects this behaviour, and pressing it in place will resolve the issue for a few hours. My guess means the inverter cable is damaged, based on previous experience. As the picture shows, there are two cables, an LCD cable and what I assume is an inverter cable. I purchased an LCD cable for my model of laptop, but have been unable to find an inverter cable. It seems not to exist. I would like some input on if an inverter cable actually exists, if it is likely the problem, or solutions in general to resolve this problem permanently.

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  • External monitor turning black intermittently

    - by coding crow
    I have installed an external monitor (Dell ST2220L, 21.5 inch) on my laptop (Sony Vaio). I am using a DVI-D cable for connection. Since the laptop does not have a DVI-D port, I have connected a DVI-D to HDMI connector on the laptop end and inserted the cable in HDMI port of the laptop.. I have switched off the laptop display and adjusted the screen resolution on the Dell external monitor to 1920 x 1080 and adjusted colors for the Windows 7 and brightness and contrast from the monitor. The problem is the monitor turns of blank intermittently for 1-2 seconds and turns on again at random interval. What could be the reason for this and how to get rid of this problem?

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  • Missing Driver - Video Controller (VGA Compatible)

    - by arahant
    I have a HP 2000-2106TU Notebook PC running Windows XP. I want to get the brightness keys to work. They are placed over the F2 and F3 buttons and are meant to be used in conjunction with the Fn key. But these combinations do not work, though other Fn keys such as the volume control keys do. I see a missing driver for a device called Video Controller (VGA Compatible) in the Windows Device Manager. The hardware id is PCI VEN 8086 DEV 0106 SUBSYS_1858103C which a Google search suggests is in an Intel HD Graphics family, but I don't know where to locate the driver. HP's driver scan does not help, as it does not show any missing driver related to video/graphics. What can I do next?

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  • External Monitors shut off when Laptop Lid closes

    - by John Lanz
    I have researched the solution... gconftool-2 --type string --set /apps/gnome-power-manager/buttons/lid_ac "nothing" does not fix it. I have two external monitors and when I close my lid the settings are reset and the laptop's monitor is set to the default. Thanks! gsettings list-recursively org.gnome.settings-daemon.plugins.power org.gnome.settings-daemon.plugins.power active true org.gnome.settings-daemon.plugins.power button-hibernate 'nothing' org.gnome.settings-daemon.plugins.power button-power 'nothing' org.gnome.settings-daemon.plugins.power button-sleep 'nothing' org.gnome.settings-daemon.plugins.power button-suspend 'nothing' org.gnome.settings-daemon.plugins.power critical-battery-action 'suspend' org.gnome.settings-daemon.plugins.power idle-brightness 30 org.gnome.settings-daemon.plugins.power idle-dim-ac false org.gnome.settings-daemon.plugins.power idle-dim-battery true org.gnome.settings-daemon.plugins.power idle-dim-time 10 org.gnome.settings-daemon.plugins.power lid-close-ac-action 'nothing' org.gnome.settings-daemon.plugins.power lid-close-battery-action 'nothing' org.gnome.settings-daemon.plugins.power notify-perhaps-recall true org.gnome.settings-daemon.plugins.power percentage-action 2 org.gnome.settings-daemon.plugins.power percentage-critical 3 org.gnome.settings-daemon.plugins.power percentage-low 10 org.gnome.settings-daemon.plugins.power priority 1 org.gnome.settings-daemon.plugins.power sleep-display-ac 600 org.gnome.settings-daemon.plugins.power sleep-display-battery 600 org.gnome.settings-daemon.plugins.power sleep-inactive-ac false org.gnome.settings-daemon.plugins.power sleep-inactive-ac-timeout 0 org.gnome.settings-daemon.plugins.power sleep-inactive-ac-type 'suspend' org.gnome.settings-daemon.plugins.power sleep-inactive-battery true org.gnome.settings-daemon.plugins.power sleep-inactive-battery-timeout 0 org.gnome.settings-daemon.plugins.power sleep-inactive-battery-type 'suspend' org.gnome.settings-daemon.plugins.power time-action 120 org.gnome.settings-daemon.plugins.power time-critical 300 org.gnome.settings-daemon.plugins.power time-low 1200 org.gnome.settings-daemon.plugins.power use-time-for-policy true

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  • Remap keyboard Ubuntu 12.04; Asus Q500A

    - by hydroxide
    I have an Asus Q500A with win8 and Ubuntu 12.04 64 bit; linux kernel 3.8.0-32-generic. I am using gnome-panel, and xserver-xorg-lts-raring. I have been experiencing problems with the keyboard short-cuts since I had a fresh install. fn+f10 is supposed to mute my system, but instead it will repeatedly press d. fn+f11 is volume down, but it presses c. fn+f12 is volume up, presses b repeatedly. Most of the other on-board short-cuts such as adjusting screen and led brightness work most of the time, but sometimes press other letters repeatedly. Also, sometimes my cntr gets held down for no reason. Everything works fine in windows. I have tried installing all recommends and sudo dpkg-reconfigure -a to reconfigure all packages, which did not solve my problem. I have tried using KeyTouch editor to edit keymaps, navigating to /usr/shar/x11/xkb/keymap when I try opening any of these files it says file contains no keyboard element. I think If I were just able to remap my keyboard it might solve my issues, otherwise if anyone knows where I can get asus drivers for 12.04 please let me know Apparently I didn't have all repositories enabled. I executed the following commands and am trying the updates they give me. Getting linux_kernel 3.8.0-33 generic as well as a bunch of other packages. sudo add-apt-repository "deb http://archive.ubuntu.com/ubuntu $(lsb_release -sc) universe" sudo add-apt-repository "deb http://archive.ubuntu.com/ubuntu $(lsb_release -sc) main universe restricted multiverse" sudo add-apt-repository "deb http://archive.canonical.com/ubuntu $(lsb_release -sc) partner"

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  • Fn key sticks down

    - by Oli
    Just bought my significant other a shiny new Samsung Q330 13" netbook, stuck an OCZ Agility in it and installed Maverick. Just as a quick aside, this is a devastating combination. Graphics work perfectly and it cold-boots to desktop in about 7 seconds. Very quick. But (common to laptops) I've got a couple of problems. I'll start with the most problematic and start a new thread for the other. Like a lot of laptops, there is a Fn (function) modifier to allow some keys to have another purpose. When I tried to alter the brightness of the screen by tapping Fn+Down, it worked but kept on going until it was as dim as it could go. I tapped Fn+Up and it went to the other extreme. After that the entire keyboard ceases to work properly because the Fn modifier appears to be locked. Additionally, and as a direct side effect, I think, clicking on things doesn't result in a standard result. It's as if control is being held. A reboot is the only thing that seems to fix these problems. This isn't a problem if you don't touch the Fn key but as there are two of them on the keyboard, an accident is going to happen sooner than later, requiring a reboot (and probably some data loss). I don't have a lot of experience with laptops (I prefer my hulking great desktop) so this isn't my area of expertise. I'm open to all suggestions, even disabling the two Fn keys until we can find a better solution.

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  • 12.0.4.3 - Missing Battery Icon, auto Suspend not working, Keyboard shortcuts volume up/down no longer working

    - by Navraj
    Problems I am experiencing: Battery Icon not showing up unity bar (top right corner). Volume Up/Down/Mute not working. Bluetooth hot keys described above also not working.Brightness up/down keys on this keyboard no longer working (apple wireless keyboard) Laptop no longer suspends when lid is shut. I have to go to 'power' button on top right corner and click on 'Suspend' All was working flawlessly until I did the following: I have recently upgraded to Nvidia propriety driver version 319 {version recommended}. Installed Xscreensaver and then removed it and went back to default screensaver. Done a system update (1st since installing) and now currently running: Linux 3.8.0-32-generic #47~precise1-Ubuntu SMP Wed Oct 2 16:19:35 UTC 2013 x86_64 x86_64 x86_64 GNU/Linux NOTE: Base system was ubuntu 12.04.3 installed from ISO however lsb_release reports "No LSB modules are available" 4.installed psensor. I have check power setting (via Settings) and power setting via dconf-editor and set to recommended settings as described in posts detailing solution to this problem. - I have disabled 1) Nvdia settings at startup and 2) psensor at startup but this does not help. I am using an HP DV7 with 2GB Nvidia card. Not using any fancy graphics features. Recommendations? Thanks.

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  • High Power Consumption and Wakeups on my Asus X54H with 12.04

    - by Marogian
    So I've been using powertop to try and reduce the power consumption on my laptop as I only seem to get about 3 hours of battery. From reading other threads on here it seems my power consumption and wakeups are strangely high, here's a summary: The battery reports a discharge rate of 10.2 W Summary: 651.8 wakeups/second, 0.0 GPU ops/second and 0.0 VFS ops/sec The things which stand out as odd: 1.31 W 4.0 ms/s 166.7 Interrupt PS/2 Touchpad / Keyboard / Mouse So more than 10% of my battery is being consumed by my touchpad/keyboard? That doesn't seem right. 548 mW 34.3 ms/s 45.9 Process compiz 5% from Compiz. Is this correct? 376 mW 1.8 ms/s 47.5 Interrupt [51] i915 298 mW 1.4 ms/s 37.7 Timer tick_sched_timer Another few percent from these things- not quite sure what they are. For reference I've installed Laptop Mode Tools, Jupiter (on power save), the CPU governor is definitely on powersave and brightness is on minimum. What else can I do/Any ideas? I've seen other posts on here reporting laptop battery lives of ~8 hours and power consumption of 4W rather than my 10W... Thanks!

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  • The battery indicator in Unity panel not showing up

    - by user61415
    I installed Ubuntu 12.04 with Wubi. Well after being completely dazzled with the amount of free content in the Software Centre, I decided to go deeper and start messing with settings. Well after changing the screen brightness the highest level I noticed that there wasn't an indicator for how much battery was left in my laptop. I looked up online on got 2 suggestions on how to fix: Right click on the Unity panel and add an indicator Set it to show in the power settings menu. Well I did both when I right click at the top menu nothing comes up and setting it to show does nothing either. Then I tried installing something in the Software Centre. I got something but when I activated it it said I had 0% power left even though I was charging and at %100 according the Light in the front of my laptop. So now I'm thinking that it doesn't even recognise my computer as a laptop which is weird because in the display settings it says my screen size is set to laptop. How can I install it? I don't know what version it is other then Ubuntu 12.04 and no matter what the icon does not appear with the

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  • Ubuntu crashes with menu bar launcher freeze during software centre use

    - by UbunUser
    I recently reinstalled Ubuntu 12.04 LTS on a Dell Studio 1588 64-bit and ran into crashes as I was installing some software on the software centre. Before this, I had display/screen problems that I needed to fix so I will briefly describe that in case it has any connection to the crashes. The problem was of screen crash/flickering (related to ATI Mobility Radeon HD 5400x) when trying to adjust brightness and so I followed guidance from an earlier chain (question 131967) to (a) use jockey to install fglrx update driver (deactivate experimental beta driver) and (b) edit grub to add acpi_backlight=vendor dell_laptop.backlight=0 The crashes that happened (twice, while software centre was just finishing installation in the background) was that all tabs (on open Firefox window) stayed open along with cursor control with mousepad but all menu bars disappeared completely along with the launcher and the keyboard also turned unresponsive. So there seemed to be no way to close windows or shut down the computer except for a forced hard shut down of the system using the start button. This is very similar to Questions #167540 and #298843, which seem to be closed. Why is this happening? Is there some update or fix I need to make? Thanks!

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  • convert pixels into image

    - by Zeta Op
    what i am trying to do is to convert a pixel from a video cam, into an image to expalin it better imagine a 3d model so.. the pixels would be each polying, and i want to do is to conver each polyigon into an image. what i have so far is this ** import processing.video.*; PImage hoja; Capture cam; boolean uno, dos, tres, cuatro; import ddf.minim.*; Minim minim; AudioPlayer audio; float set; void setup() { //audio minim = new Minim(this); // audio = minim.loadFile("audio"); // audio.loop(); // uno=false; dos=false; tres=false; cuatro=true; size(640, 480); hoja=loadImage("hoja.gif"); cam = new Capture(this, width, height); cam.start(); } void draw() { if (cam.available() == true) { cam.read(); if (uno==true) { filtroUno(); image(cam, 0, 0, 640, 480); } if (dos==true) { filtroDos(); } if(tres==true){ filtroTres(); } if(cuatro==true){ filtroCuatro(); image(cam, set, 0,640,480); } } // The following does the same, and is faster when just drawing the image // without any additional resizing, transformations, or tint. //set(0, 0, cam); } void filtroUno() { cam.loadPixels(); hoja.loadPixels(); for (int i=0;i<cam.pixels.length;i++) { if (brightness(cam.pixels[i])>110) { cam.pixels[i]=color(0, 255, 255); } else { cam.pixels[i]=color(255, 0, 0); } } for (int i=0;i<cam.width;i+=10) { for (int j=0;j<cam.height;j+=10) { int loc=i+(j*cam.width); if (cam.pixels[loc]==color(255, 0, 0)) { for (int x=i;x<i+10;x++) { for (int y=j;y<j+10;y++) { // println("bla"); int locDos=i+(j*cam.width); cam.pixels[locDos]=hoja.get(x, y); } } } } } cam.updatePixels(); } ** the broblem is that each pixel is creating me a matrix, so.. is not recreating what id that to do. i had the method filtroUno but it wasn't showing ok.. and was the result void filtroUno() { cam.loadPixels(); hoja.loadPixels(); for (int i=0;i<cam.pixels.length;i++) { if (brightness(cam.pixels[i])>110) { cam.pixels[i]=color(0, 255, 255); } else { cam.pixels[i]=color(255, 0, 0); } } for (int i=0;i<cam.width;i+=10) { for (int j=0;j<cam.height;j+=10) { int loc=i+j*hoja.width*10; if (cam.pixels[loc]==color(255, 0, 0)) { for (int x=i;x<i+10;x++) { for (int y=j;y<j+10;y++) { // println("bla"); int locDos=x+y*hoja.height*10; cam.pixels[locDos]=hoja.get(x, y); } } } } } cam.updatePixels(); } i hope you can help me thanks note: each red pixel should be the gif image the imge size is 10x10

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  • How to get "Fn" keys to work (Asus 4830T)? (specificly, the "suspend" key)

    - by Pointy
    I've got an Asus 4830T onto which I've just re-installed 12.04 because I installed an SSD. I was running 12.04 before too, which had been upgraded over a few releases. At some point on that old install, I had gotten all the "Fn" keys to work, or at least all the ones I cared about. (Oh except I think the screen brightness keys never worked.) I have no recollection of what I did. Anyway now things are fine, and some of the Fn keys work: the one to turn of the trackpad and the one to turn off wireless (grr I hate that one). However, the "suspend" key for some reason does not work. Now the system will suspend and resume just fine, but I'm having to do it from the menu. Is there an easy (or hard) way to make those work? I'm running straight Ubuntu but with Xfce installed as my normal desktop. (In other words, it's not Xubuntu, though I doubt it matters.) I recall at some point having found some arcane mapping mechanism to bind the Fn keys to actions, but I can't find it now. (I'm perfectly OK with editing weird files; I'm a long-time Unix user.) (Very long-time.)

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  • How do I reconstruct depth in deferred rendering using an orthographic projection?

    - by Jeremie
    I've been trying to get my world space position of my pixel but I4m missing something. I'm using a orthographic view for a 2.5d game. My depth is linear and this is my code. float3 lightPos = lightPosition; float2 texCoord = PostProjToScreen(PSIn.lightPosition)+halfPixel; float depth = tex2D(depthMap, texCoord); float4 position; position.x = texCoord.x *2-1; position.y = (1-texCoord.y)*2-1; position.z = depth.r; position.w = 1; position = mul(position, inViewProjection); //position.xyz/=position.w; // I comment it but even without it it doesn't work float4 normal = (tex2D(normalMap, texCoord)-.5f) * 2; normal = normalize(normal); float3 lightDirection = normalize(lightPos-position); float att = saturate(1.0f - length(lightDirection) /attenuation); float lightning = saturate (dot(normal, lightDirection)); lightning*= brightness; return float4(lightColor* lightning*att, 1); I'm using a sphere but it's not working the way I want. I reproject the texture properly onto the sphere but the light coordinates in the pixel shader seems to be stuck at zero even if when I move the light volume update properly.

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  • How do I turn off PCI devices?

    - by ethana2
    With the purchase of an Intel SSD and 85WHr Li-ion battery and the linking of wifi and bluetooth to my laptop's wireless switch, extensive Intel PowerTop usage, switching from compiz to metacity, stopping of the desktop-couch daemon, removal of Ubuntu One and several other services from my startup, disabling of everything possible in my BIOS, and physical removal of my optical drive, I've gotten my battery life up fairly high, but I think there's still more to be done. Specifically, when I'm in class taking notes, I want to temporarily but completely power down: Ethernet Firewire USB ports SD card reader Optical drive Webcam Sound card PCMCIA slot ..without turning them off in my BIOS like they are now, if possible, because then I have to restart my computer to use any of them. As it stands, I still haven't managed to power down: Firewire USB connection to webcam sound card How do I tell Linux to disable and power down these devices? Is it true that any PCI slot can be physically powered down? My current idle power consumption is 7.9 watts plus the screen. (10.0W at min. brightness) Also, how do I set the screen timeout to ten seconds? gconf editor isn't honoring it when I set it to that. Will switching from nVidia to Nouveau save any significant amount of power?

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  • Is text-only mode a saving or a problem for battery savings?

    - by Robottinosino
    A friend is flying to the US from Europe and asked me a very thought-provoking question, which I am not remotely able to answer with substance so I am asking it here: How to absolutely maximise battery life on an Ubuntu (laptop) install? do not rush to mark this as duplicate, there is an important point here: does -GNOME- help or worsen battery life? Let me provide some context: The only task he needs to perform is: edit text files in Vim. He is unsure whether running GNOME will drain his battery life more or actually save him some battery life given the smarts of GNOME's power management features like "switch this peripheral to -power save- after X minutes..." (GNOME might just be a configuration front-end for settings that are governed by command-line utils for all I know?) He could perfectly well boot the system in text-only mode and use the automatic 6 virtual consoles for his needs, if that's a saving at all over running tmux (I think so because of all the smart buffering/history/etc the latter does by default?) Exactly how would you advise him to run his laptop during his flight? What I told him already: power off WiFi in the BIOS, not from the "GUI" power off Bluetooth switch off the courtesy light and use low monitor brightness play music off of his phone, not mp3blaster do not use his tiny portable mouse (and do not attach any other USB gimmicks like "screen light", etc) stop development services he will not be using, especially apache2, tomcat, dovecot, postgresql, etc. Potentially: - switch off his cron jobs? (he does an rsync + tar + 7za of his "work in progress" every so often) I think the above is standard stuff one could get off StackExchange, and with many duplicates... the core of this question is, I think: __ will running Ubuntu in text-only mode be a saving in terms of battery life or a problem? why? (provide some technical arguments) __ I think it will be a saving but I am also scared about "other things" detecting and enabling advanced chipset power management features only when some services are started.. and fear these "services" may be off in text-only mode?

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  • Blank screen during boot after clean Ubuntu 11.10 install (Intel N10 graphics)

    - by Coen
    After a clean install of Ubuntu 11.10 on my Asus eee PC 1005p, Ubuntu seems to boot correctly, except for initialization of the LCD screen. What I observe: I choose Ubuntu 11.10 in the GRUB 2 menu A blank screen with a blinking cursor in the top left of the screen, for 15-20 seconds. The ubuntu logo with 5 red dots in the center of the screen, for 1 second. The LCD screen is entirely blank The startup sound plays (Ubuntu is configured to auto-login) Still, the LCD screen is entirely blank. When I press Fn-F8 (the switch between LCD screen and external VGA), the LCD screen shows my desktop correctly and everything seems to work fine. Except for the adjust contrast buttons (Fn-F5 and Fn-F6), these seem to cycle through random brightness modes. Something like: 0% - 50% - 20% - 0% - 20% - 0% Any ideas what's causing this or how to solve this? coen@elpicu:~$ lspci -v 00:02.0 VGA compatible controller: Intel Corporation N10 Family Integrated Graphics Controller (prog-if 00 [VGA controller]) Subsystem: ASUSTeK Computer Inc. Device 83ac Flags: bus master, fast devsel, latency 0, IRQ 44 Memory at f7e00000 (32-bit, non-prefetchable) [size=512K] I/O ports at dc00 [size=8] Memory at d0000000 (32-bit, prefetchable) [size=256M] Memory at f7d00000 (32-bit, non-prefetchable) [size=1M] Expansion ROM at <unassigned> [disabled] Capabilities: <access denied> Kernel driver in use: i915 Kernel modules: i915 00:02.1 Display controller: Intel Corporation N10 Family Integrated Graphics Controller Subsystem: ASUSTeK Computer Inc. Device 83ac Flags: bus master, fast devsel, latency 0 Memory at f7e80000 (32-bit, non-prefetchable) [size=512K] Capabilities: <access denied>

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  • Battery life low on notebook using ubuntu 11.10 vs. windows 7

    - by les
    Im using a brand new Dell XPS notebook (bought mar 2012) which has 4.5 hrs battery life using a 6 cell battery-when i use windows 7. The machine uses an Intel core 17 2670qm processor, and a 64 bit operating system. I downloaded Ubuntu 11.10 and installed it on a USB drive, which is how i use it. I still have Windows 7 on the machine. When the machine is booting up I hit F12, and run Ubuntu from the flash drive instead of the machine booting Windows, as it normally would. On the Ubuntu menu, on the top right area, there is a battery menu, which shows how long to charge battery, or how much life left etc..with a fully charged battery the most Ubuntu will give me is 1.5 hrs. I've adjusted all power setting etc by clicking on the battery meter where i can make these adjustments, and have even turned down the brightness on the monitor. I've read through these questions here, and a user wrote to install Ubuntu 12(?)(the alpha version) when it's out this month(april), and this has better power management. Other forums (Ubuntu wiki) state that windows 7 controls power management effectively because it's configured to work with the hardware. I'd like to install Ubuntu and wipe windows but can't because of this issue. I need my notebook to go hours, not an hour and a bit. Can anybody recommend possibly a good software to use, that will work with the machines bios under Ubuntu? Another thought of mine, is- since I didn't yet wipe windows off my hard disk, is windows still possibly controlling the power mgmt aspect on the machine? I've thought of calling tech support at Dell and asking for help there, maybe Dell has something (a tweak?), I can download that'll work under Ubuntu. Looking forward to any help/suggestions i can get here, i'm really stuck on this..

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  • Replacement for Picasa [closed]

    - by January
    Possible Duplicate: What is the best alternative to Picasa? I use Picasa not because it is a great photo manager -- it's not, the manager is "sort of OK" for my taste. However, it combines a passable photo manager with a good "quick and dirty" image editor. It has the basic functions like cropping, resizing, contrast and color adjustment, and the one great feature -- "I'm feeling lucky" button, that works in 90% of the cases. Also, from time to time, I use one or two of the effects (like saturation or sharpening). GIMP is great and I use it on a regular basis, but in most cases I just want to go quickly through the photographs of my kids birthday and make them more presentable without much fuss. I'm looking for a native, open source replacement, something that would not miss the editing capabilities of Picasa and would allow me to quickly go through a collection of photographs and make basic edits. A function similar to "I'm feeling lucky" (automatic adjustment of contrast, color and brightness) would be most welcome. EDIT: Yes, I have already tried a number of alternatives, if it is necessary I can produce a detailed list here, along with the problems I found. I'm posting that question because I hope to see a new name.

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  • HTG Reviews the CODE Keyboard: Old School Construction Meets Modern Amenities

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    There’s nothing quite as satisfying as the smooth and crisp action of a well built keyboard. If you’re tired of  mushy keys and cheap feeling keyboards, a well-constructed mechanical keyboard is a welcome respite from the $10 keyboard that came with your computer. Read on as we put the CODE mechanical keyboard through the paces. What is the CODE Keyboard? The CODE keyboard is a collaboration between manufacturer WASD Keyboards and Jeff Atwood of Coding Horror (the guy behind the Stack Exchange network and Discourse forum software). Atwood’s focus was incorporating the best of traditional mechanical keyboards and the best of modern keyboard usability improvements. In his own words: The world is awash in terrible, crappy, no name how-cheap-can-we-make-it keyboards. There are a few dozen better mechanical keyboard options out there. I’ve owned and used at least six different expensive mechanical keyboards, but I wasn’t satisfied with any of them, either: they didn’t have backlighting, were ugly, had terrible design, or were missing basic functions like media keys. That’s why I originally contacted Weyman Kwong of WASD Keyboards way back in early 2012. I told him that the state of keyboards was unacceptable to me as a geek, and I proposed a partnership wherein I was willing to work with him to do whatever it takes to produce a truly great mechanical keyboard. Even the ardent skeptic who questions whether Atwood has indeed created a truly great mechanical keyboard certainly can’t argue with the position he starts from: there are so many agonizingly crappy keyboards out there. Even worse, in our opinion, is that unless you’re a typist of a certain vintage there’s a good chance you’ve never actually typed on a really nice keyboard. Those that didn’t start using computers until the mid-to-late 1990s most likely have always typed on modern mushy-key keyboards and never known the joy of typing on a really responsive and crisp mechanical keyboard. Is our preference for and love of mechanical keyboards shining through here? Good. We’re not even going to try and hide it. So where does the CODE keyboard stack up in pantheon of keyboards? Read on as we walk you through the simple setup and our experience using the CODE. Setting Up the CODE Keyboard Although the setup of the CODE keyboard is essentially plug and play, there are two distinct setup steps that you likely haven’t had to perform on a previous keyboard. Both highlight the degree of care put into the keyboard and the amount of customization available. Inside the box you’ll find the keyboard, a micro USB cable, a USB-to-PS2 adapter, and a tool which you may be unfamiliar with: a key puller. We’ll return to the key puller in a moment. Unlike the majority of keyboards on the market, the cord isn’t permanently affixed to the keyboard. What does this mean for you? Aside from the obvious need to plug it in yourself, it makes it dead simple to repair your own keyboard cord if it gets attacked by a pet, mangled in a mechanism on your desk, or otherwise damaged. It also makes it easy to take advantage of the cable routing channels in on the underside of the keyboard to  route your cable exactly where you want it. While we’re staring at the underside of the keyboard, check out those beefy rubber feet. By peripherals standards they’re huge (and there is six instead of the usual four). Once you plunk the keyboard down where you want it, it might as well be glued down the rubber feet work so well. After you’ve secured the cable and adjusted it to your liking, there is one more task  before plug the keyboard into the computer. On the bottom left-hand side of the keyboard, you’ll find a small recess in the plastic with some dip switches inside: The dip switches are there to switch hardware functions for various operating systems, keyboard layouts, and to enable/disable function keys. By toggling the dip switches you can change the keyboard from QWERTY mode to Dvorak mode and Colemak mode, the two most popular alternative keyboard configurations. You can also use the switches to enable Mac-functionality (for Command/Option keys). One of our favorite little toggles is the SW3 dip switch: you can disable the Caps Lock key; goodbye accidentally pressing Caps when you mean to press Shift. You can review the entire dip switch configuration chart here. The quick-start for Windows users is simple: double check that all the switches are in the off position (as seen in the photo above) and then simply toggle SW6 on to enable the media and backlighting function keys (this turns the menu key on the keyboard into a function key as typically found on laptop keyboards). After adjusting the dip switches to your liking, plug the keyboard into an open USB port on your computer (or into your PS/2 port using the included adapter). Design, Layout, and Backlighting The CODE keyboard comes in two flavors, a traditional 87-key layout (no number pad) and a traditional 104-key layout (number pad on the right hand side). We identify the layout as traditional because, despite some modern trapping and sneaky shortcuts, the actual form factor of the keyboard from the shape of the keys to the spacing and position is as classic as it comes. You won’t have to learn a new keyboard layout and spend weeks conditioning yourself to a smaller than normal backspace key or a PgUp/PgDn pair in an unconventional location. Just because the keyboard is very conventional in layout, however, doesn’t mean you’ll be missing modern amenities like media-control keys. The following additional functions are hidden in the F11, F12, Pause button, and the 2×6 grid formed by the Insert and Delete rows: keyboard illumination brightness, keyboard illumination on/off, mute, and then the typical play/pause, forward/backward, stop, and volume +/- in Insert and Delete rows, respectively. While we weren’t sure what we’d think of the function-key system at first (especially after retiring a Microsoft Sidewinder keyboard with a huge and easily accessible volume knob on it), it took less than a day for us to adapt to using the Fn key, located next to the right Ctrl key, to adjust our media playback on the fly. Keyboard backlighting is a largely hit-or-miss undertaking but the CODE keyboard nails it. Not only does it have pleasant and easily adjustable through-the-keys lighting but the key switches the keys themselves are attached to are mounted to a steel plate with white paint. Enough of the light reflects off the interior cavity of the keys and then diffuses across the white plate to provide nice even illumination in between the keys. Highlighting the steel plate beneath the keys brings us to the actual construction of the keyboard. It’s rock solid. The 87-key model, the one we tested, is 2.0 pounds. The 104-key is nearly a half pound heavier at 2.42 pounds. Between the steel plate, the extra-thick PCB board beneath the steel plate, and the thick ABS plastic housing, the keyboard has very solid feel to it. Combine that heft with the previously mentioned thick rubber feet and you have a tank-like keyboard that won’t budge a millimeter during normal use. Examining The Keys This is the section of the review the hardcore typists and keyboard ninjas have been waiting for. We’ve looked at the layout of the keyboard, we’ve looked at the general construction of it, but what about the actual keys? There are a wide variety of keyboard construction techniques but the vast majority of modern keyboards use a rubber-dome construction. The key is floated in a plastic frame over a rubber membrane that has a little rubber dome for each key. The press of the physical key compresses the rubber dome downwards and a little bit of conductive material on the inside of the dome’s apex connects with the circuit board. Despite the near ubiquity of the design, many people dislike it. The principal complaint is that dome keyboards require a complete compression to register a keystroke; keyboard designers and enthusiasts refer to this as “bottoming out”. In other words, the register the “b” key, you need to completely press that key down. As such it slows you down and requires additional pressure and movement that, over the course of tens of thousands of keystrokes, adds up to a whole lot of wasted time and fatigue. The CODE keyboard features key switches manufactured by Cherry, a company that has manufactured key switches since the 1960s. Specifically the CODE features Cherry MX Clear switches. These switches feature the same classic design of the other Cherry switches (such as the MX Blue and Brown switch lineups) but they are significantly quieter (yes this is a mechanical keyboard, but no, your neighbors won’t think you’re firing off a machine gun) as they lack the audible click found in most Cherry switches. This isn’t to say that they keyboard doesn’t have a nice audible key press sound when the key is fully depressed, but that the key mechanism isn’t doesn’t create a loud click sound when triggered. One of the great features of the Cherry MX clear is a tactile “bump” that indicates the key has been compressed enough to register the stroke. For touch typists the very subtle tactile feedback is a great indicator that you can move on to the next stroke and provides a welcome speed boost. Even if you’re not trying to break any word-per-minute records, that little bump when pressing the key is satisfying. The Cherry key switches, in addition to providing a much more pleasant typing experience, are also significantly more durable than dome-style key switch. Rubber dome switch membrane keyboards are typically rated for 5-10 million contacts whereas the Cherry mechanical switches are rated for 50 million contacts. You’d have to write the next War and Peace  and follow that up with A Tale of Two Cities: Zombie Edition, and then turn around and transcribe them both into a dozen different languages to even begin putting a tiny dent in the lifecycle of this keyboard. So what do the switches look like under the classicly styled keys? You can take a look yourself with the included key puller. Slide the loop between the keys and then gently beneath the key you wish to remove: Wiggle the key puller gently back and forth while exerting a gentle upward pressure to pop the key off; You can repeat the process for every key, if you ever find yourself needing to extract piles of cat hair, Cheeto dust, or other foreign objects from your keyboard. There it is, the naked switch, the source of that wonderful crisp action with the tactile bump on each keystroke. The last feature worthy of a mention is the N-key rollover functionality of the keyboard. This is a feature you simply won’t find on non-mechanical keyboards and even gaming keyboards typically only have any sort of key roller on the high-frequency keys like WASD. So what is N-key rollover and why do you care? On a typical mass-produced rubber-dome keyboard you cannot simultaneously press more than two keys as the third one doesn’t register. PS/2 keyboards allow for unlimited rollover (in other words you can’t out type the keyboard as all of your keystrokes, no matter how fast, will register); if you use the CODE keyboard with the PS/2 adapter you gain this ability. If you don’t use the PS/2 adapter and use the native USB, you still get 6-key rollover (and the CTRL, ALT, and SHIFT don’t count towards the 6) so realistically you still won’t be able to out type the computer as even the more finger twisting keyboard combos and high speed typing will still fall well within the 6-key rollover. The rollover absolutely doesn’t matter if you’re a slow hunt-and-peck typist, but if you’ve read this far into a keyboard review there’s a good chance that you’re a serious typist and that kind of quality construction and high-number key rollover is a fantastic feature.  The Good, The Bad, and the Verdict We’ve put the CODE keyboard through the paces, we’ve played games with it, typed articles with it, left lengthy comments on Reddit, and otherwise used and abused it like we would any other keyboard. The Good: The construction is rock solid. In an emergency, we’re confident we could use the keyboard as a blunt weapon (and then resume using it later in the day with no ill effect on the keyboard). The Cherry switches are an absolute pleasure to type on; the Clear variety found in the CODE keyboard offer a really nice middle-ground between the gun-shot clack of a louder mechanical switch and the quietness of a lesser-quality dome keyboard without sacrificing quality. Touch typists will love the subtle tactile bump feedback. Dip switch system makes it very easy for users on different systems and with different keyboard layout needs to switch between operating system and keyboard layouts. If you’re investing a chunk of change in a keyboard it’s nice to know you can take it with you to a different operating system or “upgrade” it to a new layout if you decide to take up Dvorak-style typing. The backlighting is perfect. You can adjust it from a barely-visible glow to a blazing light-up-the-room brightness. Whatever your intesity preference, the white-coated steel backplate does a great job diffusing the light between the keys. You can easily remove the keys for cleaning (or to rearrange the letters to support a new keyboard layout). The weight of the unit combined with the extra thick rubber feet keep it planted exactly where you place it on the desk. The Bad: While you’re getting your money’s worth, the $150 price tag is a shock when compared to the $20-60 price tags you find on lower-end keyboards. People used to large dedicated media keys independent of the traditional key layout (such as the large buttons and volume controls found on many modern keyboards) might be off put by the Fn-key style media controls on the CODE. The Verdict: The keyboard is clearly and heavily influenced by the needs of serious typists. Whether you’re a programmer, transcriptionist, or just somebody that wants to leave the lengthiest article comments the Internet has ever seen, the CODE keyboard offers a rock solid typing experience. Yes, $150 isn’t pocket change, but the quality of the CODE keyboard is so high and the typing experience is so enjoyable, you’re easily getting ten times the value you’d get out of purchasing a lesser keyboard. Even compared to other mechanical keyboards on the market, like the Das Keyboard, you’re still getting more for your money as other mechanical keyboards don’t come with the lovely-to-type-on Cherry MX Clear switches, back lighting, and hardware-based operating system keyboard layout switching. If it’s in your budget to upgrade your keyboard (especially if you’ve been slogging along with a low-end rubber-dome keyboard) there’s no good reason to not pickup a CODE keyboard. Key animation courtesy of Geekhack.org user Lethal Squirrel.       

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  • Objective-C RGB to HSB

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    Let's say I've got the colour FF0000, which is red. Finding a darker colour is easy, I just type maybe CC instead of the FF, but let's say I've got the colour AE83FC, which is a complicated colour, how the heck would I find a lighter or darker version of it automatically? I figured the easy way to do this is to convert my RGB to HSB [Hue, Saturation, Brightness] How would I do that in Objective-C? Let's say I've got a RGB which is: 1.0, 0.0, 0.0. That's red. CGFloat r = 1.0; CGFloat g = 0.0; CGfloat b = 0.0; How would I convert that to HSB and then transform the colors and make it go back to RGB to I can use CGContextRGBSetFillColor? Are there any HSB functions? Please help. :)

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  • Image Application in WPF and Perfomance.

    - by Harsha
    Hello All, I am planning to build Image processing application using WPF. Brightness /Contrast and Histogram are main operation of this application. I have downloaded the application " Foundations: Bitmaps and Pixel Bits" from http://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/magazine/cc534995.aspx . But when I tried to open the images which are more than 1200x1600, It is very slow. How to increase the performance. Is any one worked on Image processing in WPF. Please suggest me how to solve this perfomance issue in WPF for image(more than 1600x1200) operation. Thanks you, Harsha

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