Search Results

Search found 56140 results on 2246 pages for 'super computer'.

Page 177/2246 | < Previous Page | 173 174 175 176 177 178 179 180 181 182 183 184  | Next Page >

  • External SATA drive does not work without the optional USB cable *also* connected

    - by Software Monkey
    I have Vantec NST-260SU external eSATA/USB drive enclosure (which came with an optional separate power supply) connected to a relatively new Windows 7 computer. The drive should work as a SATA drive with either the separate power supply or using a USB cable solely for power. I would prefer to use the external power supply because I have used all my rear USB ports. Now, if I connect both the eSATA and USB cable, then: The drive shows in the BIOS list of AHCI drives (and not in the list of attached USB devices). Everything I can see about it in Computer Management seems to show it as a SATA driver (for example, it shows as "Location 0 (Channel 5, Target 0, Lun 0)" like my other SATA drives (and not "on USB Mass Storage Device" like my USB flash-drives). It seems very fast, very much faster than my USB flash drives. However, if I disconnect the USB cable and attach the power adapter instead, the drive does not show in the BIOS list and cannot be seen by Windows. The power LED on the enclosure is lit, and the drive enclosure becomes warm after running for a bit, so I am sure it is receiving power. Does anyone know if this device requires both the USB and eSATA cable, and if so, why? Or is there possibly something I need to do to reset the enclosure to not need the USB - the install instructions are pretty clear that you must connect the SATA cable before connecting the USB cable in order for the drive to function as SATA, which I am sure I did. PS: I have reviewed the small manual which came with it, which has not been of help.

    Read the article

  • I get "An error occurred while Windows was synchronizing with [name of time server]." when trying t

    - by ChrisF
    Prompted by the answers to this question I decided to give the Windows built in time synchronisation another go. However, no matter what time server I use I get this error: "An error occurred while Windows was synchronizing with [name of time server]." The help suggests the following as reasons for failure: You are not connected to the Internet. Establish an Internet connection before you attempt to synchronize your clock. Your personal or network firewall prevents clock synchronization. Most corporate and organizational firewalls will block time synchronization, as do some personal firewalls. Home users should read the firewall documentation for information about unblocking network time protocol (NTP). You should be able to synchronize your clock if you switch to Windows Firewall. The Internet time server is too busy or is temporarily unavailable. If this is the case, try synchronizing your clock later, or update it manually by double-clicking the clock on the taskbar. You can also try using a different time server. The time shown on your computer is too different from the current time on the Internet time server. Internet time servers might not synchronize your clock if your computer's time is off by more than 15 hours. To synchronize the time properly, ensure that the date and time settings are set close to your current time in the Date and Time Properties in Control Panel. Now the first reason is clearly wrong - I am connected to the internet. I can see the 2nd being the most likely cause. I have Sygate Personal Firewall running, but it normally asks if something it trying to connect for the first time. Does anyone know I can unblock the NTP protocol - or at least check if it is blocked?. I don't think it's #3 or #4 as I've tried a number of different servers including the one currently used by Atomic Clock Sync. Though if someone knows the address of a UK time server I can double check this.

    Read the article

  • Gigabit LAN not working on ASUS M2N-MX

    - by chmod
    Today I replace my FastEthernet switch with a newly bought gigabit switch (DGS-1008A). All computers in my house are displaying that the connection speed is 1 Gbps except for one. The computer that is not working is an ASUS M2N-MX which contain an onboard gigabit NIC. See ASUS link for confirmation http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_AM2/M2NMX/ Here are some info of the machine OS: Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 64bit BIOS version: 1004 (latest) Driver: installed via Windows update (latest from Windows update) Windows Update: fully updated The machine is reformatted 3 days ago, so it's pretty clean, no junk, no virus, etc Cable: Amp CAT5E 5 meters In device manager, the name of the NIC is "NVIDIA nForce 10/100/1000 Mbps Ethernet" What I have try: I did try to install the driver provided in ASUS website, but there isn't any for Windows 7 64 or Vista 64. I did try to install the latest nForce340/6100, downloaded from Nvidia website. However, the LAN driver refuse to install, it complain that I already have the best driver installed. I looking in the property -- advance tab -- Speed/duplex settings, in an attempt to force it to run at 1000Mbps, but there is no 1000Mbps choice, only 10 and 100Mpbs. I change the CAT5E cable (use one from another computer that is running gigabit without problem) Anyone have this issue or know how to solve it? Thanks

    Read the article

  • Printer spooler service stop running when sent print job

    - by Hanan N.
    Every time i am sending a print job to the printer, i am don't get any response from the printer, and at the printer job list at the status of the job, i see that there was an Error, but it don't give me any clue on what could be the problem. After some investigation i found that every time that i send the print job to the printer the printer spooler service stops to run, then after a second or two it start again (i think that this behavior is related to the printer spooler settings to rerun it self after it stops). Things that i have tried so far: Remove and Install again the Driver. After removing the driver, i have removed the unnecessary registry keys according to this article from Microsoft, these are: Rename all files and folders in: c:\windows\system32\spool\drivers\w32x86 Remove anything but Drivers Print and Processors: HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Print\Environment\Windows NT x86 Remove anything in here: HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Print\Monitors but: BJ Language Monitor Local Port Microsoft Document Imaging Writer Monitor Microsoft Shared Fax Monitor Standard TCP/IP Port USB Monitor WSD Port Disconnect and Reconnect the Printer. Clean the computer from Viruses & Spywares. Currently i am stuck, i have no more things to try, if anybody know about any kind of solution please let me know about it. Since i am want to keep this post as general problem that relate to the printer spooler, and not just my particular problem, i didn't included inside the windows version & the printer model, they are (although i think that it isn't relate just for that particular model): Windows 7 32bit, HP Officejet 4500 G510g-m (connect to the computer via USB). Thanks.

    Read the article

  • High fan speed with no reason

    - by Klaus
    For a few weeks, the fans of my Lenovo B590 laptop, running on Xubuntu 14, turn to high speed a few minutes after it is turned on. The fans won't speed down until I turn the computer off. This is quite strange, since This didn't happen before The temperatures are quite low (are they ?) $sensors Adapter: Virtual device temp1: +36.0°C (crit = +88.0°C) temp2: +30.0°C (crit = +126.0°C) coretemp-isa-0000 Adapter: ISA adapter Physical id 0: +37.0°C (high = +72.0°C, crit = +90.0°C) Core 0: +34.0°C (high = +72.0°C, crit = +90.0°C) Core 1: +31.0°C (high = +72.0°C, crit = +90.0°C) thinkpad-isa-0000 Adapter: ISA adapter fan1: 0 RPM pkg-temp-0-virtual-0 Adapter: Virtual device temp1: +37.0°C $sudo hddtemp /dev/sda /dev/sda: ST500LT012-9WS142: 33°C The computer is under low load: top - 08:30:15 up 16 min, 2 users, load average: 0.28, 0.23, 0.23 Tasks: 197 total, 1 running, 196 sleeping, 0 stopped, 0 zombie %Cpu(s): 0.8 us, 0.5 sy, 0.0 ni, 98.7 id, 0.0 wa, 0.0 hi, 0.0 si, 0.0 st KiB Mem: 3607944 total, 1973956 used, 1633988 free, 99660 buffers KiB Swap: 3744764 total, 0 used, 3744764 free. 789936 cached Mem The BIOS is up to date (and there are no fan settings in it) The fan is clean and dust-free Why would the BIOS turn the fans to high speed where there seem to be no reason for that ? It seems that we cannot control the fan manually with this model, so I guess the only solution is to understand why this happens.

    Read the article

  • no administrator password for Windows 7

    - by huskergirl78
    I'm a secretary and my boss set up my new Windows 7 OptiPlex 7010 (Dell) computer for me while I was on vacation (he does not remember setting any "administrator" password). We are a small office so there is no system password set, either. I've used it for 6 months, all the while I couldn't access network drives, etc., without an administrator password. It was annoying, but I could still get my work done. Finally, on a slow day I took it upon myself to "fix" the problem, and in all my infinite wisdom, I managed to change my user account from administrator to standard user, so now I really can't do anything. I can't download or install any programs, move or rename files, etc. I tried the Dell suggested solution, but the BIOS tells me there is no password set, so it has to be a Windows 7 problem. All the solutions I have come across require an administrator password to let me do them. What can I do to find out the admin password so I can use my own darn computer!? Is there a default admin password?

    Read the article

  • Strange WiFi problem - network is "not connected" but works

    - by GalacticCowboy
    Background I'm using a Windows XP tablet PC connected to my home network. I do broadcast the SSID, but otherwise the wireless network is locked down as tight as I can make it - WPA2 with a strong key, MAC filtering, etc. I've had this computer for about 4 years and the router for about 6 months. Before that, the previous router was set up in the same way, and I've never had any particular problems. Problem This morning - as I type this, as a matter of fact - Windows is reporting that none of my network connections are connected. Yet somehow my Internet connectivity still works! ipconfig reports a valid IP address, domain, etc., even though Windows apparently doesn't know about it. I tried repairing the connection and it had no effect - the repair eventually timed out. I'm pretty sure that I could reboot the computer and/or the router, etc. and it would fix the problem. However, I'm more interested in knowing if any of you have ever seen anything like this, and what might have caused it? Since it works I'm not inclined to mess with it too much. My concern is that it's a precursor to bigger problems.

    Read the article

  • Dell XPS 1530 DVD-RW firmware problem

    - by josecortesp
    Hello everyone. I have this XPS laptop since a year and a half ago. About 2 months ago, with the waranty expired, i tried to run the optiarc slot load DVD-RW firmware update, and said everything was okay. Then I restarted it and the problem started: Now, every single time I turn on my computer, it get stuck at the BIOS POST until the drive sounds like "ready" and then the computer starts normally. And this happen EXACTLY the same when it's getting back from sleep. I'm pretty sure is not a software issue, because I tried with Vista Home Premiun 32 bits, Ubuntu (from 8.10+)32 & 64, and with W7 64. Already tried to run the firmware installer like a million time, in case it is a failing install with no luck. Also, google it to see if someone has the same problem, and again, no. The Drive performs pretty okay once the System is on, but waiting to the drive to be ready everytime is really annoying. The Firmware I updated was this, and the drive is: K937C Assembly, Dvd+/-rw, 8, SLOT, 1530 Sony Nec Optiarc Inc. I'll apreciate any help you can give me

    Read the article

  • Why can't I mount an image hosted on a read-only HFS+ partition via Boot Camp?

    - by deceze
    I have come across the following phenomenon and would like to know how leaky Windows' file system abstraction is or if there's something else involved. I partitioned the hard disk of my MacBook Pro and installed Windows 7 (64 bit). The Boot Camp driver package includes file system drivers that enable Windows to access the Mac OS HFS+ partition. It's read-only access, but it works. Now, I have some disk images of stuff I usually install, so I grabbed a copy of Daemon Tools to mount them. When I mount an image saved on the HFS+ partition, about two out of three installers on these disks (usually InstallShield) crash with all sorts of weird errors. Most are just gibberish that lead to all sorts of non-solutions on Google, one was "This application is not the right type for your computer, check if you need 32 or 64 bit versions." When moving the image files to another Windows 7 computer on the network and mounting them from the network share, they work fine. My question now is, why do applications behave differently depending on whether the read-only image file, which should be abstracted away through the read-only virtual Daemon Tools drive, is located on a read-only HFS+ partition or on a Windows network share? And I'll just roll this into the question as well since I was wondering: Does the file system of a network share matter? Does the client system need to understand the file system of the share host or is that abstracted away in SMB?

    Read the article

  • Windows 7 hangs on black screen for a while after log in

    - by steini
    I get the welcome screen. I click on my user and get the "logging on" screen. After that all I get is a black screen with a mouse cursor. I can't even start task manager. No ctrl+alt+del or ctrl+shift+escape. It stays like this for about 10 minutes, then the desktop finally starts loading. According to the hdd led on my case, windows isn't even trying to access the hard drive for that whole time. It's just hanging doing nothing it seems. What I have tried: Uninstalled video driver and removed leftovers with driver sweeper Disabled all startup programs and non microsoft services Loaded "last known good configuration" Ran the alleged "black screen fix" from prevx against my best judgement (don't really like running random exes without knowing what they do at all) None of that works. I can boot into safe mode normally. My specs: i7 920 Gigabyte X58-UD3R Gigabyte HD5870 1GB 12GB Mushkin Silverline 1333MHz Windows 7 Ultimate x64 I'm also having another problem which I suspect is related. After I have gotten the computer up and running, everything works perfectly, but when it's been on for a while it starts behaving strangely when changing display modes. When I start up a game or anything that changes the screen resolution the computer freezes for about a minute every time until I reboot again. I think this is probably related to the black screen problem. Just thought I'd check to see if anyone has had the same problem. Let me know if I should post any more details about my system to help diagnose this. Thanks in advance.

    Read the article

  • Task scheduled to wake laptop - only works when lid is open

    - by JD Pack
    I am running Windows 7 Starter on an Acer Aspire One laptop. I want my laptop to automatically run a task (backup the HDD to a network drive) once a week in the middle of the night. I scheduled the task in "Task Scheduler" and checked the box to wake the computer to run the task. I also changed the advanced power settings to allow wake timers. This was half of the solution. It now works flawlessly when the lid is open... the computer can wake itself up from either sleep or hibernate mode to perform the backup. When the lid is closed however, its sleeping beauty. Any ideas? I don't want to have to remember to open the lid once a week. It sort of defeats the purpose of an "automatic" backup. Update: I discovered that it can wake from sleep (or hybrid sleep), but not from hibernate when the lid is closed. This is good news. I'd still be curious about how to get it to work from hibernate, but I'm pretty happy about waking from sleep at least.

    Read the article

  • "Ethernet" doesn't have a valid IP configuration

    - by Xuzuno
    I'm using an ethernet cord to connect to my internet and it has been working well until Thursday morning when I turned on my laptop (Windows 8) to see a yellow triangle sign in the bottom right hand corner, in front of the ethernet connected symbol. Since then I haven't been able been able to access the internet from my computer. When I hover over it, it says that it is an "Unidentified network" and there is "No internet access". I've run the Windows 8 troubleshooting and it says that the problem found was ""Ethernet" doesn't have a valid IP configuration", but I'm unsure how to fix it. I'm thinking that the problem is to do with my computer rather than my network, because I've tried another laptop (Windows 7) through the same ethernet cable and connection and the internet works fine on the other laptop. I've tried so many fixes that I've found online, with none of them actually working. Yesterday I even tried a full system reset, where I re-installed Windows 8, re-partitioned and wiped everything off the hard drive, but it still appears have the exact same problem. Today I also purchased and tried a new ethernet cable which didn't work, so I then purchased a USB to Ethernet adapter, to make sure that it wasn't my ethernet port on my laptop that was faulty. That didn't work either, and the same problem still remains. I feel like I've tried everything, so can someone please help me?

    Read the article

  • Looking for a real DisplayPort hub/splitter

    - by squircle
    In my search for a new display, I came across the Dell Multi-Monitor Hub MMH11, which seemed to be an alternative to my search for daisy-chainable DisplayPort displays. However, before I cave and spend $179 on this device, I am wondering if this will be similar to other splitting devices where it appears to the computer as one big monitor and the device does the splitting (which I don't want). Or, does this use the packet-based nature of DisplayPort to present two/three separate displays to the computer? Also, would this device work on my MacBook Pro? (I know the Dell site says it's for Windows, but it also says that no driver installation is required. I'd assume since the MBP supports DP 1.2 it would work, but it's better to ask). Thanks! Edit: I've checked out the similar-looking Cirago DisplayPort splitter, but I have extreme doubts as to whether or not it's a genuine displayport splitter, or just another monitor-conglomerate. Their DVI solution looks identical to Dell's, which I'm pretty sure won't do what I want. I also don't want to order this DisplayPort "hub" and find that it doesn't do what I want it to.

    Read the article

  • Mac dev folder missing, SSH not working

    - by SamGoody
    A few days ago, SSH stopped working. When I try logging in a get the following message: PTY allocation request failed on channel 0 stdin: is not a tty fatal: unrecognized command '' Connection to 74.52.61.194 closed. Web searches have shown me that there might be something wrong with /dev/std. But my computer lacks a /dev/ drive. There is an Alias to /dev/ [hidden, but I've revealed hidden files to do this search], but when I try to open it I am told that it cannot find the folder it is aliasing. Now, many a web search tells me that without a dev folder, the computer doesn't work, but it does seem to work, except the SSH. Also, are there any tools that can save my SSH preferences so that I don't have to, each time, type out the username@adrees, password, path all of which are long and complex? Not looking for a Filezilla type client, there are many of those. Looking for a command line like putty, that lets me use bash on the remote client. Am on Macbook Pro, latest version of Tiger.

    Read the article

  • How do you enable view source in ie8 when it gets magically diabled

    - by Tim Meers
    I have multiple computers that all seem to have View Source disabled from the content menu when you right click on a web page. Now I know it's not that the web page is some how disabling it, I'm pretty sure thats not even possible. But alas I have at least 3 machines in my office (not on AD) that have this problem. I have also worked on clients computers that have this same issue. It's down right maddening! I tried to Google for it, but it just shows results from the dawn of IE6 in all of it's "glory" with a bug where if the cache was full it would be disabled. But this is not the case in IE8. Any body have a clue why this is happening, or a fix for it? Maybe a reg setting? Update: So I got a little closer to solving it, but there was still an issue on one computer where it allowed it not is HTTP, but not in HTTPS. One other computer works correctly in both. I Found these two keys missing in the registry: [-HKEY_CURRENT_USER\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\View Source Editor] [-HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\View Source Editor]

    Read the article

  • Windows media scaling/interpolation method

    - by MichaelH
    Usually in Windows, if videos or other media is upscaled from a certain resolution to a higher resolution (e.g. "monitor size"), a bilinear filtering algorithm or similar is used, such that the upscaled material doesn't look blocky. On my system however, the used interpolation algorithm changed from 'bilinear' to 'nearest neighbor' at some point, with the effect that upscaled videos (e.g. viewed in MPC or WMP, and also Skype video streams) and games (e.g. from PopCap) appear rather blocky. Not sure what the common factor between those is, could be DirectShow(?). I am not aware of having changed any setting that could have affected this state, in fact I am not even aware such a setting exists. I'm guesing that some installed software must have changed something on my computer. My computer is running Windows 7, but I had already experienced the same effect on an XP machine some while ago, where it changed back again to the more pleasing bilinear interpolation after a while, as magically as the first time. What could be wrong with this installation, and how can I change this upscaling interpolation behavior?

    Read the article

  • Can I boot up a virtual machine natively?

    - by Anshul
    My question is: Is is possible to run a virtual machine natively on your hardware if you have installed the proper drivers etc? In other words, can I use a VHD as a regular hard drive to boot from? The reason I want to do this is that I do both graphics-intensive and audio-intensive work, but my computer is not powerful enough to handle both at the same time and many times I install a bunch of audio programs that I don't want affecting the stability of my graphics programs. Basically I wanted to have sandboxing between the two sets of applications. So I tried running the graphics-intensive programs in a VirtualBox VM and the audio-intensive work natively (simply because it's a pain to route ASIO audio devices in/out of VirtualBox). This kind-of works - the graphics-intensive stuff is tolerable, but still relatively slow, because it's running inside a VM. So my next idea was to just dual-boot and install the graphics and audio programs in separate partitions but I frequently use them in tandem, so it wouldn't be practical to reboot my machine every time I need to use the other set of programs. But I could live with this scenario: If I need to do more audio-intensive stuff, I'll just boot up to the audio partition and run the graphics programs in a VM, and then when I'm working heavily on the graphics part, I'll just boot the graphics partition as a regular OS directly on the hardware. Is this possible? For example by booting up a VHD as a regular hard drive? Or by setting up dual-boot, and every time the audio partition is shut down, synchronize the graphics VM VHD with the native graphics partition? Is it practical, given the above scenario? And if it's not possible, barring buying another computer, can anyone suggest a best-of-all-worlds setup (the two worlds being performance, sandboxing, and running in parallel) for the above scenario? Thanks in advance.

    Read the article

  • No boot device found. Press any key to continue

    - by Andrew Banks
    I took out the hard drive from my Dell Latitude E5420 notebook, put in an ADATA S599 solid state drive, and installed Ubuntu 11.10. When I boot, the Dell BIOS splash screen appears with a progress bar, which quickly fills up, and the screen goes black. All of this is like it was before. At this point, the OS splash screen should fade in. Instead, I was dismayed to see simply the following, in white text on a black screen: No boot device found. Press any key to continue After looking around for the Any key (just kidding) I press a key, and the Dell BIOS splash screen appears again with a progress bar, which quickly fills up, and the screen goes black. This time, however, the Ubuntu splash screen shows up, Ubuntu opens up, and all is normal. Every time I shut down, however, this happens again. It's like a game the computer and I play together. The computer has never started up without first saying: No boot device found. Press any key to continue and it has always started up after I press any key to continue. It also starts up fine if I click Restart instead of Shut Down. Thoughts?

    Read the article

  • I can't get my PC to start up by a normal way.

    - by ssice
    I couldn't write a more accurate title. I am just unable to start the computer by pressing the Power On button. I checked the Power Supply and it seems to give good voltage values in every pin. And this is not a BIOS malfunction because of bad overclocking or anything that may come to your mind. And I will tell you why. It happens that EPS (or any ATX-based) power supply has the ability to be powered-on by the Motherboard by jumping the 13th pin of the 24-pin-ATX-connector to COM/GND. I did it, after pushing the power on button (without any visual response) and, pwhaa! The machine turned on. I was able to read (and even write, if I wanted) BIOS values and then start any OS installed. Machine starts, so it's not any kind of misconfiguration. It seems some hardware related. I am able to power the machine on only if I already pushed the power on button. Though pushing it without jumping the 13th pin to ground for a second does not power the machine. Of course, jumping the pin without pushing the power on button does not tell the motherboard anything, so the computer would not start up either. It's as if the logic that connects the power button with the 13th pin derivation to GND was unable to be activated. What can be the issue? How can I solve it? My configuration is as follows: CPU: AMD Phenom 9850 X4 Black Edition MB: ASUS Formula II AM2 RAM: 2x2GB Corsair Dominator 5-5-5-15 2T @ 1066MHz DDR2 Tested also with only 1 module GPU: 2x XFX nVIDIA GeForce 9600 GT XxX Alpha Dog Edition @ Core: 540Mhz [SLi] Power Supply: Xilence 700W (ATX 12V 2.3 / EPS 12V 2.92 compatible) PS: I know the machine is like 2 years old. I hardly use it now, but my parents do.

    Read the article

  • win 7 something is causing excessive disk usage, maybe chrome?

    - by camcam
    On my Win 7 computer, this happens: I work for several hours without problems, also using Chrome Suddenly, just after refreshing a page in Chrome, disk starts being used excessively (here I can close Chrome or not, no matter, the disk won't stop) Disk diod is on all the time and I hear it running like crazy, all computer is a little slowed down It last 5-10 minutes In the meantime, I go to Windows Task Manager and observe what processes are using disk and turn them off one by one - but no success in stopping the excessive disk usage After approximately 10 minutes everything stops I go to Chrome (or re-open it) and refresh the page with mixed results - sometimes the whole process repeats immediately, sometimes not Basically, it is almost always Chrome refreshing random page that starts the excessive disk usage, but killing Chrome process does not stop the disk. Going to the same page in Firefox is not causing problems. Windows Search is turned off. I would like to know what is really happening. Perhaps there is a utility which would allow me to see which process is really using the disk, so that I can disable the service ? (not chrome, because killing chrome does not change anything) or even better, perhaps there is a way to fix it?

    Read the article

  • CPU temperatures high on new build after gaming

    - by Reznor
    My friend had a problem with his computer a while back. His games were crashing, even within the menus. He was stumped as to what the problem was, so I posted on here requesting help. He found out the day later, when his computer would start up but wouldn't display anything on the screen. His video card must have came screwed up. So, he got a replacement. Now, there's a new problem. His temperatures, which were acceptable before, are now insanely high. His GPU temperature runs 70-80c, which is understandable considering he's running his games maxed out, but the real problem here is his processor and motherboard temperatures. All four of his cores are running at 88-90c after coming out of a game. His motherboard temperature was also 70c at one point. In terms of cooling, his case should definitely be adequate. He has an Antec Twelve Hundred. He's using stock fans. The cable management in his case is very good; better than average. He's using the stock heatsink with the processor too, but note, it was fine before the replacement, so it isn't like there's some inherent problem. He has checked the case too. Everything's fine! No cables in the way. The heatsink is seated properly. He turned his case fans up to high, as well, but the temperatures are persisting. Could the processor be overheating due to running games maxed out? Any ideas?

    Read the article

  • How can laptop keyboard keys be removed and replaced?

    - by Lord Torgamus
    I'm trying to fix a laptop keyboard that has issues with keys on its left side. Just by feel, it's clear that something sticky got under there. There could be something crunchy too, but that might just be the sound of the key's spring releasing itself from the sticky. I don't know the cause because it's not my computer and the owner isn't sure, but I'm guessing soda spill for now. The computer is an HP dv2500. I've removed the keyboard and blown under it but that hasn't helped. I didn't use compressed air because I just don't have any available, but I suspect it wouldn't help with sticky. So, I'd like to pop they keys off and clean with damp cotton swabs or similar. Is there a proper way to remove the keys? I've found some instructions via Google for non-laptop keyboards, but they don't seem like they'd work for me. Alternate solutions to the problem also welcome, but I've been curious about how to remove the keys for some time for other reasons.

    Read the article

  • iTunes Home Sharing only works one way between 2 Windows XP PC's on the same LAN

    - by scunliffe
    Both PC's have the latest iTunes installed. PC (A) can "see" that there is a shared library "B library" but attempts to connect to it return this error message: The shared library "{Username}'s Library" is not responding (-3259) Check that any firewall software running on either the shared computer or this computer has been set to allow communication on port 3689. however the reverse works fine. e.g. PC (B) can "see" shared library "A library" and can access all content. Notes: Both PC's have Home Sharing enabled (turned off/on several times to verify). Both PC's have Windows Firewall turned on, but in the exceptions tab, iTunes is allowed, and Port 3689 is also added as a firewall exception (just in case) Both iTunes accounts have been "authorized" on both PC's Both PC's connect via LAN via D-Link DIR-615 router. In the advanced application rules, iTunes has also been added to allow traffic on port 3689 un-hindered. Is there any other magical setting/configuration option that I should be aware of and set in order to get this to work? I could care less about sharing apps etc. I just want the music sharing to work. Update: Solved! It turns out on PC (B) there were multiple accounts set up. 1 of the accounts had the checkbox checked under the Windows firewall "On" option which states "No exceptions" thus even though it was added to the exception list on the main user account, this other account was blocking access.

    Read the article

  • OS X won't boot up unless I hold down option key

    - by Gazzer
    I have a strange issue on an early 2008 Mac Pro running OS 10.6: if I restart the computer it restarts normally if I shutdown and boot, it stops at the grey screen just before the boot process if I shutdown and boot but hold down the option key, I can select the boot disk and all is good. I've just cloned the disk, and the same thing happens. The disk is a SAMSUNG HD154UI The disk is partitioned (the second partition holds a clone of the Snow Leopard Install disk) One weird thing on the original disk was one of the partitions said 'EFI Boot' in a non-aliased font rather than the name of the disk when the disks are listed upon holding down option. Solution: it seems that there was a problem with the disk. Part of the difficulty in finding the solution was that you need to remove the disk from the computer completely. For example, a good disk in Bay 3, wouldn't boot up if the bad disk was in Bay 2. So for ages I thought the problem was hardware related in Bay 3. So if you think you have a dodgy disk remove it totally if you are testing the hardware with a 'clean' disk. Cleaning the PRAM helped to get the new disk to work too.

    Read the article

  • CPU not working on a specific motherboard

    - by Shaman
    I'm making a computer for someone and I met a weird problem. The CPU that I have doesn't work on this motherboard. The CPU is an Intel Pentium D 925 and the motherboard is an ECS G41T-M6, which in theory should work together. The only thing reused is the power source(400W). When I start the computer, the fans start, and that's it. The BIOS doesn't boot. I tried my own power source (600W Corsair) and nothing. Removed the RAM, no warning. In desperation I tried the last thing, swaped my own CPU with this one (Core2Duo E7200). Lo and behold, it worked. Both. The Core2Duo worked on the ECS with the old power source and the RAM that I used in the first place, and the Pentium D worked on my Gigabyte G31M-ES2L. What I discovered was that the Pentium D didn't receive power on the ECS, because I tried running it without the cooler and it remained at room temperature. On a side note, I also removed the HDDs just in case. So, in conclusion, any ideas? I can't return it, and I can still use it to upgrade another PC, but I would really prefer not to buy another CPU if possible.

    Read the article

< Previous Page | 173 174 175 176 177 178 179 180 181 182 183 184  | Next Page >