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• How can I most efficiently batch resize images on a Mac?

  - by Nick Douglas

  I've been batch-resizing images through Preview (OS X) through the menu bar, but I want a simpler workflow, since I do this a dozen times a day. What I want: 1. Select a group of image files in finder 2. Hit a button or two (menu item or keyboard shortcut) to do the following: a. Scale all the pictures to 600 pixels wide b. Save as JPG files at 75% quality What I also want: - All of the above, plus step a(1): Crop images to 200 pixel height I can do all that manually, to a batch of files, through Preview. I can do it one at a time with some keyboard shortcuts in Photoshop or Pixelmator. Automator (using Preview) can scale to 600 pixels on the longest dimension, but it doesn't let me specify width. (It can scale specifically to width before cropping height.) It can change to JPG, but it can't specify image quality. And I can assign a keyboard shortcut to the whole process. Is that my best option on a Mac? Can I accomplish this more efficiently through another app like Quicksilver?

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• Xbox360 Universal Media Remote - out of sync?

  - by Traveling Tech Guy

  Hi, I have the Universal Media Remote from Microsoft, which was included with my HD-DVD package. I've been using it for over a year to watch videos/DVDs on my Xbox360 and it saved me the hassle of navigating with the game controller (which turns itself off every 5 minutes).All of a sudden (it didn't fall or suffer any severe trauma), it does not communicate with the Xbox anymore: it is on, I replaced batteries several times, but the Xbox does not respond to commands. The TV does - volume, channels, etc. - but I need the Xbox functionality.As far as I can see, there's no way to sync the remote with the Xbox - it lacks that small sync button that the game controllers have.I called Microsoft Support and spoke for an hour to someone who, I guess didn't know what to do at all. Bottom line - since it's been over a year, they won't fix/replace it - I have to get a new one.Before I do (if I do), I need to know if there's anything I can do with the existing remote, and will I have the same problem with a new one (i.e. the problem is with the Xbox itself)? Thanks!

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• Linksys WAP54G v3.1 no access, power and link LED solid

  - by user142113

  I'm managing the Network of a small enterprise. A Linksys WAP54G v3.1 used to provide the WiFi network. I was called, because the device did not provide a WiFi network anymore. I first of all tried to ping the device via LAN, but there was no reaction. I've frequently reconnected the AP to the mains and always the POWER and the LINK LED keep solid, even if no network cable is connected. What I've done yet: Reset as documented: Pressed the RESET button for 10 seconds. After that I have tried to access the AP with a direct cable connection to my computer, that I've set to a static ip of 192.168.1.240, but i got no ping response on the default IP 192.168.1.245. Furthermore ipconfig reports "media disconnected". More complex reset method as described here http://bruceshankle.blogspot.de/2005/12/how-to-reset-linksys-wap54g.html as well had no effect. also tried to ping 192.168.1.1 without success Tried this method: http://www.daniweb.com/hardware-and-software/networking/threads/142437/linksys-wireless-access-point-problem#post680245 but there was no ping response when powering up. As well the tftp transfer timed out Finally tried to short pin 15 and 16 of the flash chip on the bottom side of the AP mainboard while booting to provoke a Checksum error. This should lead to the possibility to upload a firmware with tftp, as the AP stops booting and waits for a tftp connection on 192.168.1.1. But I've had no success. As well i've put pin 15 and 16 to ground while booting, also without an effect. After all that I still can't ping the AP, ipconfig still tells me "media disconnected". The POWER and LINK LED are solid. I would appreciate your answers

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• try to attach to a database file but can't browse folder which contains the file

  - by Chadworthington

  I am trying to attach to database file (*.mdf, *.ldf) that I placed in the same folder as all my other SQL Server databases. I begin the attach by attempting to browse to the folder which contains the db files as well as all of my active database files. I select "attach Database" and click the "Add" button to add a database to the list of databases to attach to. When I do so, I get this error: TITLE: Locate Database Files - BESI-CHAD ------------------------------ D:\SQLdata\MSSQL10_50.SQLBESI\MSSQL\DATA Cannot access the specified path or file on the server. Verify that you have the necessary security privileges and that the path or file exists. If you know that the service account can access a specific file, type in the full path for the file in the File Name control in the Locate dialog box. ------------------------------ BUTTONS: OK ------------------------------ The path is correct and, as I mentioned, it contains all of my other database files so I wouldn't think that permissions should be an issue, but here is what I see for that folder: Any idea why I cannot browse to that folder and attach to the db files that I have place there?

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• Random Hard Freeze of Windows 7 (is Kaspersky to be blamed for this?)

  - by Christian Ivicevic

  The last few weeks I experienced a new strange behavior of my computer. Sometimes Windows 7 just freezes with no real reason at all. While listening to music for example the playback hangs and you can hear a very nasty sound. Neither mouse nor keyboard input is handled and everything is just stuck. Using Ubuntu this does not happen, so I think it is just a matter of driver issues or a Windows 7 bug. Furthermore I am really suspicious about Kaspersky (Internet Security 11) and so I let it perform a complete virus scan while no other app is running. At about 50% it happened again and I needed to restart the computer by holding the power button the bad way... A really weird thing is that playing Skyrim this happened once, however music playback did not stop. Only the framerate dropped to 0 and sometimes for a few seconds I am able to move. Therefore I am really confused as furthermore no bluescreen pops up. Memtest told me that everything seems to be alright... Can anyone explain me which data you need about my hardware and software (and which tools tools to use to gather the informatik) to be able to provide any help on my problem?

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• Add bookmarks to Delicious and Google Bookmarks at the same time

  - by BrianH

  I have used delicious.com (or back then, del.icio.us) to store my bookmarks for a long time now, and I love it. I was looking through some of my Google services, and realized they have a bookmarking service that integrates with your Google searches (I thought they had a bookmarking service before, but it went away? Maybe not). I like delicious just fine - I'm not interested in leaving. But I also like how my Google bookmarks are highlighted (and I'm guessing, brought to the top) in my search results so I can easily tell if I've bookmarked a site (kind of like the "promote up" feature). I can't even count the number of times I search for a site only to find I've been there months or years ago. If sites I've bookmarked in the past are highlighted in my search results, it makes it easier to pick which search result to go to. My question is around bookmarking tools: Is there a bookmarklet or Firefox addon that will let me save a bookmark to multiple services at the same time, in this case, Google and Delicious? Or maybe a service to sync my delicious bookmarks to Google bookmarks on a regular basis? I have used the Delicious addon since the beginning - it would just be nice to add a bookmark to multiple services with 1 addon. For that matter, it would be nice to add Evernote into the mix - click 1 button to save the page to Evernote, and bookmark the page in Google and delicious. EDIT on 7/30/2009 - Summary: A proposed solution is to use the Delicious addon and the GMarks addon to keep the 2 services in sync. I was not able to get the 2 addons to keep everything in sync, so it was also suggest to use the Google Toolbar with the Delicious addon to keep everything in sync. I personally have reservations with letting Google know about every single site I visit, I believe this solution will work, so I am accepting it as the answer. I still wish there was a solution that would let you post a bookmark/page to multiple services at the same time (delicious, google, evernote, digg, diigo, etc.). Thanks!

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• New Computer freezing up at random

  - by Benjamin Frost

  Since I built my system about 4 weeks ago I'v been getting random freezes, Sometimes it can happen directly after startup and sometimes it wont freeze up for 3-4 days of 24/7 running. It seems to be happening under all stress loads but mainly when the CPU is under 10% load. It doesn't give me a BSOD or anything, it simply just freezes and repeats the last sound before the freeze until I shut it down by the power button. I'v re-seated everything in the system except the CPU, Cleaned the RAM sockets and gold fittings. None of the components have been clocked above their factory settings as of yet, don't want to overclock them until I sort out these freezes. Temps are all well under the rated max temps, the highest the temps have been are below CPU: Low load: 16-21°C Full Load (100%) 40-43°C *(From HWMonitor by CPUID) GPU 1: Low Load: 25-30°C Full Load (100%): 45-50°C GPU 2: Low Load: 23-27°C Full Load (100%): 45-50°C *(GPU Temps from Catalyst Control Center) General Case temps Rear: 18-20°C Mid: 20-21°C Front (HDD/SSD Bays): 14-19°C (Case temps may be a little off as it's from the Kaze master pro fan controller) I have Un-installed EVERY driver for Motherboard, GPU & Soundcard and Re-installed twice. Windows is all up to date. To date i'v tried the following Running Memtest for 24 hrs straight, No errors Running Memtest on each individual RAM modules, No errors Reseated everything except the CPU Cleaned DIMM Sockets and Gold inputs Tested the Graphics cards 1 at a time Re-arranged all the SATA devices to run on Chipset controlled ports Re-installing all drivers OS: Win7 Professional 64bit Motherboard: ASRock X79 Extreme9 CPU: i7 3930k 3.2GHz GPU: Sapphire 7950 OC Edition V2 (2 card Crossfire) RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws Z F3-17000CL11Q-16GBZL 16GB (4x4GB) DDR3 Boot Drive: OCZ Agility 4 128GB Data Drive 1: Western Digital Black 2TB Data Drive 2: Western Digital Black 2TB Data Drive 3: Western Digital Green 3TB Power Supply: Corsair AX1200 Gold

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• Issues installing new drivers

  - by Luke

  I have a Windows XP Home SP3 system that won't detect anything on USB. It works on Ubuntu Live (off USB), and the USB keyboard and mouse work in the BIOS. Physically speaking, I'm sure it's fine. I installed the SMBus drivers and the USB driver from the motherboard's website, adn that went fine. If I plug anything in, it can detect the type of thing it is (i.e. keyboard, mouse, flash drive, etc) and even the name sometimes (i.e. Microsoft 5 button mouse), but won't accept any drivers. I have tried putting the Windows CD in the drive, but that didn't help. I have scanned for viruses and CHKDSK with no issues, and ran a MemTest86 with no issues. I am limited to one PS/2 connection for inputs, so I'm using the keyboard and haven't tried WU yet. A colleague suggested trying a new USB controller, so I put in a PCI one that only had drivers for 9x on the CD, so I assume that XP has them built in. It goes through the Found New Hardware wizard, but never actually finds drivers. I have also tried running SFC /SCANNOW and System Restore. SFC just flashes and goes away, making me believe it may be a hidden virus somewhere, but everything else seems to work, including MSE. I have reason to believe it's just an issue with detecting hardware, since even the USB Controller card can't seem to find drivers, but it can detect WHEN a USB device is connected Anyone else run into this, or have a suggestion short of re-installing Windows?

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• Completely automated DVD insert-rip-compress-eject workflow

  - by Kevin L.

  (Partially inspired by this question.) Background: I have a PC hidden away behind an HD LCD in custom-built entertainment center. The only visible part of the PC is an external DVD drive, mounted above the Wii. The PC happens to have Windows XP on it; Hackintoshing and Linux might be possible, but I've had issues with drivers for the sound card before. Let's just assume that OS X and Linux are a no-go unless they provide a truly awesome and simple solution for this particular problem. Goal: I would like to have a completely automated workflow for ripping DVDs. Something like this: Push the eject button on the DVD drive, insert the DVD. PC recognizes that this is a video DVD (as opposed to data). PC rips DVD to hard drive. PC finishes ripping, and ejects the DVD tray. PC compresses DVD image into some format that an Xbox 360 can read. PC copies finished compressed video file to a particular folder, so that it can be read into a WMP11 library and seamlessly played by the Xbox 360. PC cleans up all temporary files. Done. The impetus to have this be completely automated is that I’ll never need to switch the TV to the PC’s input and fiddle with the wireless keyboard. That’s just needless user intervention. The UI doesn’t have to be pretty. Nor do I care about speed. And I can probably bridge several of the gaps with some creative Perl use. But it seems likely that many (or all) of the parts should already exist. Any thoughts?

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• Skip all warning prompts on ACPI shutdown?

  - by N Rahl

  When I issue an ACPI shutdown command to a Windows XP guest machine from the host VM server, I want Windows to shutdown. The problem is, Windows always wants to ask some question or another, rather than just shutting down. I need shutdown to be reliable, no matter what is running or going on, so I can automate shutdowns from the host machine. But I want it to be as graceful as possible, rather than just pulling the plug. Some problems: If a user is logged in, ACPI shutdown causes a box to appear that says, "are you sure you want to shutdown while other users are logged in"? And this prevents shutdown until someone connects to the machine and clicks "yes". In this case, it should try its best to gracefully log out all users, using force if necessary, and then shutdown without promoting. Busy or non-responding programs or programs asking to save data can prevent Windows from shutting down until a user answers a prompt. This should attempt to save data, wait maybe 30 seconds for non-responding programs, but should get aggressive with stubborn programs. "nope, time's up! 3,2,1, Goodbye!" Is there a registry setting that I can change from: ACPI_Shutdown: "Shut down if Windows feels like it" to ACPI_Shutdown: "Just do it. Kill programs, bump users, try to be graceful about it, but when I come back, I expect you to be off." This should respond to the ACPI shutdown command, and not be a script on windows, unless that script is triggered by the ACPI power button. I'm hoping this can be changed with registry options.

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• HP LaserJet 2550 has a carousel motor error

  - by Arlen Beiler

  I have a LaserJet 2550, and it's worked pretty good for a long time (except for some slowness a while back, spooling I think), but just recently it suddenly quit working. We moved this summer, but left it at our other place, and just recently when my Dad went over there to try to print something out, it didn't work. When you turn it on, you hear the fan give a false start (basically a quick pulse), and the carousel goes through its usual thing. Then it starts up in earnest like it's getting ready to print something. All of a sudden it just stops. Everything stops, and the three lower lights are steady. When I push the Go button, the Go light (bottom of the 3) turns off, but the other two stay on. I looked it up on the HP website and it says it is a carousel motor problem. I called HP, but they said it is out of warranty. I've opened the cover and held the switch with a screw driver so I could watch it, and it goes through its thing like I described (doesn't seem to make a difference whether the imaging drum is in or not), then when it stops it kind of seems to jump back a little bit (the carousel). I hope this all makes sense (I know you like details), and hopefully you also know what to do to fix it. Thanks.

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• Wireless USB keyboard and mouse can wake system, but then receiver is inactive

  - by BlueMonkMN

  I have a Microsoft brand USB device that acts as a receiver for a wireless Microsoft Keyboard and a wireless Mouse. When it's operating normally, there are LEDs on the device indicating Caps Lock, Num Lock and Function Lock, of which the latter 2 are usually lit. It is plugged into a Dell Isnpiron 531 with Windows 7 32-bit running on an AMD Athlon 64 X2 Dual Core processor 5000+. When the computer goes to sleep (the power indicator on the main box is flashing), I can wake it by moving the mouse. So far all is good. However, something changed in, I think, the past couple weeks (I suspect due to a Microsoft driver update problem). Before the change, after waking the computer, everything would operate normally as far as I could tell, but now after waking the computer, the receiver has no lights on, and the keyboard and mouse are completely unresponsive (which is odd, considering the mouse woke up the computer). There is a button on the receiver that's supposed to reset the wireless connection and flash the lights while it does so, but it has no effect in this state. It's like the receiver doesn't have power (but how would the system know I moved the mouse, unless the power was on until it woke up?). I have checked the BIOS/CMOS settings or whatever you call them, and did not see anything related to USB in the power management section. I have checked Windows 7 device manager and ensured that all the USB Root Hub devices have the setting unchecked for allowing the USB power to be turned off. Like I said, this was working before, and the only thing I can think of that's changed is applying Windows Updates.

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• The email address used to help trust my PC, is no longer valid, how do I fix that?

  - by Rod

  A few nights ago I upgraded my Windows 7 PC to Windows 8. This morning, when I logged into my PC, I noticed the little flag in the system tray, in desktop mode, had a red "X" on it. I checked it and one of the issues was my needing to tell Windows 8 that I trusted my PC. I clicked on the link to trust my PC, and saw the button to tell it to trust my PC, and so I did. After doing that it send it had sent out an email to a really old email address I had, which hasn't been valid for many years. Now what? Will that "trusting my PC" be invalid, because I can't respond to it (which certainly isn't true, if it's sending messages to so old email address). I didn't even know that Windows still had such an old email address. I'm concerned that I won't have a trust relationship with my own PC, that somehow or other whatever holds onto my information has old information and that I am not sure how to change it in as fast a manner as possible so that I can trust my own PC. How do I do these things?

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• Connect bluetooth headphones both to PC and phone at the same time

  - by Sergiy Byelozyorov

  I have recently bought Philips SHB6110. Extract from the 13th page of manual: Therefore you can connect your Bluetooth stereo headset. with a Bluetooth stereo enabled phone to both listen to music and lead calls, or with a Bluetooth phone that does not support Bluetooth stereo (A2DP) to lead calls and at the same time to a Bluetooth audio device (Bluetooth enabled MP3 player, Bluetooth audio adapter etc.) to listen to music. Make sure to pair the phone first with your Bluetooth headset, then turn both the phone and headset off to then pair the Bluetooth audio device. With the SwitchStream feature you can listen to music and monitor your calls at the same time. Even while listening to music, you will hear a ring tone when receiving a call and can switch to the call simply by tapping the button. The manual however doesn't specify how do I connect to both device at the same time. I use Toshiba Satellite Pro P300-1CG laptop with Belkin Mini Bluetooth Adapter and Nokia N95 phone. Operating system is Windows 7 64-bit and I have Skype installed. Both phone and compute can be used for listening to music and talking on the phone (on PC via Skype). Best solution would be if I could connect to PC and phone as the same time and monitor calls both mobile and Skype calls while listening music from Winamp. If that is not possible, then I would like at least to be able to listen music from PC, while monitoring calls from mobile. So, please tell me how do I connect both PC and phone to headphones?

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• How can I find out which processes on my computer are accessing the microphone?

  - by Vinayak

  After reading this interesting Lifehacker post and reading the comments on the page, one person was wondering if it would be possible to use the Physical Device Object Names of other hardware such as the microphone to find out the names of processes using that device. I tried the same approach, but so far it only seems to work for the webcam. Is there any other way I could get this to work in Process Explorer? UPDATE: The Lifehacker post was about finding out which Windows process is currently using your webcam. This is how they went about doing it: Start Device Manager (WIN+R → "devmgmt.msc" → OK) Find your webcam among the list of devices (check under Imaging Devices) Open the properties window of the device and switch to the Details tab (Right click → Properties → Details) In the dropdown menu, select Physical Device Object Name and copy the string(Right click → Copy) Download Process Explorer Make sure you have opened Process Explorer in Administrator Mode(File → Show Details for All Processes) Hit CTRL+F and enter the string you copied earlier(it should be something like \Device\000000XX) Hit the Search button and you should see a list of processes using the webcam(if there are any)

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• Asus n61Ja notebook bios update

  - by zKs

  I wanted to update the bios, with an official bios update, from version 207 to 211. I didn't use winflash, I used easyflash in the bios. Everything seemed to be going okay; it deleted the old files, wrote the new ones, verified the new ones. Then it said: shutdown in/after 2 seconds and it shut down. Then nothing happened anymore. Power button completely unresponsive. The battery light was still on, and I'm not sure if I should've just waited... I didn't though, I thought I had to remove the battery, take the power off completely to be able to start it up again. So I'm wondering: what are my options here? My warranty expired and I don't really have the money to send it in and pay hundreds of bucks on repairs. Is there anything I can try? CMOS battery reset? Anything??? Please help me out! I would be very grateful :) ps. What was sort of odd btw, was that easyflash said something like that it was an unsigned bios and if I wanted to flash it anymore, if i wanted to 'force' it or something. It was with 100% certainty the correct update from the Asus.com support site, so I didn't take that 'warning' seriously.

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• Apple Service Diagnostic application on USB key?

  - by Matt 'Trouble' Esse

  I found the following in a text file, and I would like to use the Apple Service Diagnostic Application from a bootable USB key but I cannot find where to download it or set it up? Also is this free software or does it require a separate licence? It sounds like it would be a useful tool for diagnosing Mac problems. The Apple Service Diagnostic application is designed to run both EFI and Mac OS X tests from an external USB hard drive. Apple Service Diagnostic (EFI) runs low-level tests of the hardware directly and does not require Mac OS X, while Apple Service Diagnostic (OS) uses Mac OS X to run tests. Booting and Using the Apple Service Diagnostic Application - Before using Apple Service Diagnostic, disconnect any Ethernet network, USB, and audio cables. - With the USB hard drive containing ASD 3S123 plugged into a USB port, restart the computer and hold down the option key as the computer boots up into the Startup Manager. To run ASD (EFI) select the "ASD EFI 3S123" drive icon and press return or select it with a mouse click. To run ASD (OS) select the "ASD OS 3S123" drive icon and press return or select it with a mouse click. ASD (EFI) will load in 20-30 seconds; ASD (OS) will load in 2-3 minutes. - After running ASD (OS) or ASD (EFI), press the Restart button to restart the computer back into the normal startup volume, or hold down the option key to get back to the Startup Manager. ASD is no longer delivered as an image to be restored onto a DVD. ASD 3S117 and newer versions requires installation onto an external USB hard drive. For more information, please refer to the document "Installing ASD on a USB hard drive".

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• Why does my Internet slow to a crawl unless I reboot my router every few days?

  - by Lord Torgamus

  A few weeks ago, I noticed that my Internet connection had slowed down to a crawl. I waited a few days hoping it would go away on its own, but it didn't get better. So I asked this question about how to make it faster. The problem went away after I updated to the latest firmware, so I didn't follow up too carefully. But every few days since then, my Internet has slowed down again. Unlike before, all I have to do to fix it is open the router administration page and press the "Reboot" button. Nothing else seems to work, though I'm sure there are options I haven't tried. If it makes a difference, my girlfriend and I both transfer large amounts of data fairly routinely for school (videoconferencing, downloading entire recorded lectures). The router is a Cisco/Linksys 160N V3 that's about a year old. Most of the time, it deals with just two standard Windows 7 laptops. The only thing I came across while searching for answers/dupes was this question, which seems similar superficially, but probably doesn't have the same root issue. Anyways, it's not resolved. What could be causing these slowdowns, and how can I get rid of them?

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• Remote desktop solution where the desktop sharing party contacts the computer it wants to share with

  - by Kent

  I'm in a situation where I act as a sort of techinical support to my family and less techinically experienced friends. I'm looking for a remote desktop solution where it's possible to setup a "zero-install, double click an icon"-solution where the client computer contacts me so that I may interact with their desktop. The last part is important as the people in need of my help don't know how to configure their router or even the firewall software on their own computer. They are able to click an accept button when asked if a program should be able to make outgoing connections. They have many different kinds of routers, as well as software firewalls, and I rather not deal with the problem of how to connect to them using whatever as well as the actual problem they are having. It must be: Free of charge for non-commercial use. Possible to use it in a mode where the computer wanting to share its desktop should be able to make a connection to my computer. My computer has a DNS name we can use. Compatible with both Windows XP and Windows 7. Independent of a third party server or infrastructure. Explanations of the above: I don't want to spend money on it when I help them for free. If it's free as in freedom, all the better! I guess this boils down to being callable like showdesktopto.exe opscomputer.com where opscomputer.com is my computers DNS name. If that is possible then I can create a shortcut they can use to connect to me when they need help. It's nice if it's possible to specify a password or key file which I can use to authenticate myself, but it's not required. They use the OS which their machine comes installed with. That means Windows XP or 7. I want something which will work in the long run. Using a third party service which might not be available when I need it disqualified such solutions.

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• How to wake from screensaver directly to the login screen in Ubuntu

  - by torbengb

  (a.k.a. How to switch users without entering password, part II) (see part I) I've got Ubuntu 9.10 with a user account for my wife, and one for myself. "Wake-from-screensaver" should result in "choose user" without having to enter any password. I know how to do that in Windows, but I'm not good with Linux (yet). Part of this was answered in my earlier question which helped me get past the login screen without passwords (after booting, and after choosing "switch user"), but once the screensaver kicks in and I wake it up again, the system does not present the "choose user" screen. Instead, it either turns off the screensaver and presents the desktop of the most recent user, or (if the screensaver is set to lock the screen) prompt for the user's password (which can be handily surpassed by clicking the "switch user" button and choosing the same user again). So, the login ("choose user") screen has been dealt with. How do I make the (any) screensaver return to the login screen at wake, rather than to the current user's desktop? Windows can do this, I'm sure Linux can too - but how?

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• Creating Windows 8.1 system image error

  - by Random

  I'm experiencing "not enough space" error when trying to create system image to a USB hard drive: Detailed error: ERROR - A Volume Shadow Copy Service operation error has occurred: (0x8004231f) Insufficient storage available to create either the shadow copy storage file or other shadow copy data. Blah, blah... There is not enough disk space to create the volume shadow copy on the storage location. Make sure that, for all volumes to be backup up, the minimum required disk space for shadow copy creation is available. This applies to both the backup storage destination and volumes included in the backup. Minimum requirement: For volumes less than 500 megabytes, the minimum is 50 megabytes of free space. For volumes more than 500 megabytes, the minimum is 320 megabytes of free space. Recommended: At least 1 gigabyte of free disk space on each volume if volume size is more than 1 gigabyte. ERROR - A Volume Shadow Copy Service operation error has occurred: (0x8004231f) Insufficient storage available to create either the shadow copy storage file or other shadow copy data. I'd tried both - PowerShell wbAdmin start backup -backupTarget:E: -include:C: -allCritical -quiet and via Control Panel - File History button Clearly both EFI and Windows Recovery Environment partitions don't meet requirements coming from System Image tool (pic below) On top of that all system partitions are now shown as 100% free in Disk Management, it's disturbing but far from the actual state. My question is - hot to create System Image in Windows 8.1?

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• Need to find jni.h in cmake on Mac

  - by Ilan Tal

  I am trying to make VTK compile on a Mac Air machine. I am using CMake 2.8-9, using Xcode4 as the generator. If I press the Configure button with VTK_WRAP_JAVA not checked, it will go with no errors. However I definitely need to use the wrap java since my main program is in Java and I need to get to VTK which is c++. As soon as I check the wrap Java, I get Could NOT find JNI. It apparently is looking for jni.h which in Linux there is no problem finding, but in the Mac it apparently can't find it. I did a locate jni.h and got new-host-2:~ geraldkolodny$ locate jni.h /Applications/Xcode.app/Contents/Developer/Platforms/MacOSX.platform/Developer/SDKs/MacOSX10.7.sdk/System/Library/Frameworks/JavaVM.framework/Versions/A/Headers/jni.h /Applications/Xcode.app/Contents/Developer/Platforms/MacOSX.platform/Developer/SDKs/MacOSX10.8.sdk/System/Library/Frameworks/JavaVM.framework/Versions/A/Headers/jni.h /Library/Java/JavaVirtualMachines/jdk1.7.0_07.jdk/Contents/Home/include/jni.h I tried to manually put into JAVA_INCLUDE_PATH2 either entry 2 or 3 (without the jni.h at the end), but it still can't find jni.h. Xcode used to have a template for jni but that is now gone in the latest version. I am fresh out of ideas on how to solve this problem. I'd be grateful for any suggestions. Thanks, Ilan

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• How can I disable the CTRL-ALT-DEL key combination completely on XP/Vista/7?

  - by Travesty3

  I have been googling extensively to figure this out, and nobody seems to be able to give a direct answer. Let me start by saying that I'm NOT talking about requiring CTRL-ALT-DEL to enter logon information. I'm working on a golf simulator program which is used at golf centers. I need the ability to completely disable the CTRL-ALT-DEL key sequence so that the golf center customers can't get out of the program and access the computer at all. I realize there are other key combinations that need to be handled as well, we already have this entire feature working in XP, but we're going to be switching to Windows 7 soon, and CTRL-ALT-DEL is the only one that doesn't seem to work in Win7. I'd really like an all-around solution if at all possible. This same program may also be installed on a client's personal computer for an in-home golf simulator, but the computers that really need this feature (golf center computers) are provided to the golf center by us, so would the best option be to write a new shell? I don't know anything about that at all, other than others that suggest writing a new shell for kiosk mode. I'd really like a simpler option, like modifying the registry in some way. I have heard that you can remove some buttons from the menu screen that pops up, but unless I can remove pretty much all of them (including the shutdown/restart button in the bottom-right corner), this won't be enough of a solution for me. Thanks for taking the time to read this and thanks again for any help you could provide! -Travis

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• Outlook 2007 "Mark as Not Junk" Dialog Confusion

  - by David

  Outlook 2007's "Not Junk" button opens the "Mark as Not Junk" dialog. The dialog works correctly if I keep the "Always trust e-mail from <email address>" option checked. That is, the message is removed from the Junk folder and returns to the Inbox. However, if I uncheck the "Always trust" box, pressing OK dismisses the dialog, but nothing else happens. Why not? According to Outlook help, "When you mark a message as not junk, you are given the option of adding the sender or the mailing list name to your Safe Senders List or Safe Recipients List." That sure makes it sound like this is just an option, and not necessary for the core functionality of the action. I really don't want to trust a (possibly forged) From: address, but I do want my mail back in the Inbox. I could manually drag it, but I'm assuming that marking a message as not junk also trains some kind of bayesian filter. Am I mistaken? Thanks.

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• Changing dual-monitor settings without closing the laptop lid on OS X

  - by hekevintran

  I have a Unibody MacBook hooked up to an external display. By default when I boot up, the system will go to dual-monitor mode. I want to use only the external display. The Apple supplied solution to this problem is to close the lid of the laptop which puts the machine into sleep mode and then move the mouse around to wake it up again. Because the machine is being woken up with the lid closed, when the displays are detected the system finds only the external. After the system is functional again, you can open the lid if you want and the laptop screen will be non-functional until you either tell the system to detect displays from the system preferences or you turn off the external display. Every time I want to use only the external display, I must reach my hand over to close the lid, wait for the machine to sleep, jigger the mouse, wait for the machine to wake up, and finally open the lid again because I don't want the machine to overheat. I feel that this is very stupid to have to do. Why is there no button or menu option that says "don't use this screen"? Is there any third-party software way to change the screen setup that does not involve physically closing the lid and playing a game of "are you sleeping" in order to switch such a simple software setting? We are in the 21st Century and honestly this is childish.

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