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  • Does the Noctua NH-U12-DX 1366 cooling system mount on Asus P6T 1366?

    - by Andrea Ambu
    The Noctua NH-U12-DX 1366 is an aftermarket CPU cooler for LGA1366 Xeon CPUs. On Noctua's site they state: Caution: The NH-U12DX 1366 can only be used on mainboards that have a backplate with screw threads for CPU cooler installation (such as the Intel reference backplate for Xeon 5500). The cooler is thus incompatible with Xeon 3500 and Core i7 mainboards that don’t have such a backplate. How do I know if the Asus P6T has this backplate?

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  • Cooling Server Closet - No A/C Is Possible

    - by JamesCo
    We're moving into a new office in an old building in London (that's England :) and are walling off a 2m x 1.3m area where the router & telephone equipment currently terminates to use as a server closet. The closet will contain: 2 24-port switches 1 router 1 VSDL modem 1 Dell desktop 1 4-bay NAS 1 HP micro-server 1 UPS Miscellaneous minor telephony boxes. There is no central A/C in the office and there never will be. We can install ducting to the outside quite easily - it's only a couple of metres to the windows, which face a courtyard. My question is whether installing an extractor fan with ducting to the window should be sufficient for cooling? Would an intake fan and intake duct (from the window, too) be required? We don't want to leave a gap in the closet door as that'll let noise out into the office. If we don't have to put a portable A/C unit into the closet, that'd be perfect. The office has about 12 people; London is temperate, average maximum in August is 31 Celsius, 25 Celsius is more typical. The same equipment runs fine in our current office (same building as new office, also no A/C) but it isn't in an enclosed space. I can see us putting say one Dell 2950 tower server into the closet, but no more than that. So, sustained power consumption in the closet would currently be about 800w (I'm guessing); possibly in the future 2kw. The closet will have a ceiling and no windows and be well-insulated. We don't care if the equipment runs hot, so long as it runs and we don't hear it.

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  • Laptops with easy heat sink service?

    - by Niten
    Can you recommend a current laptop model with easy heat sink access – or better yet, a removable air intake filter – making it easy to periodically clean out the dust and lint that always packs up in these things? Every laptop I've owned has eventually overheated on account of a clogged heat sink. (I suppose it doesn't help that I have a cat who loves to hang out where I'm working, or that my laptop is almost always running.) One of the things I really love about my current system, a Dell Inspiron 1420n, is how easy it is to service its cooling system: whenever I notice the fan starting to work harder and the CPU temperature climbing higher than it should be, I merely have to unscrew a single panel from the bottom of the machine, clean out the heat sink, and then I'm good for another few months. Which current models of the "business laptop" variety offer similar easy cooling system service? I'm looking for something roughly along the lines of: 14- or 15-inch display Nehalem-based CPU Solid construction – magnesium chassis or better (like the Inspiron) TPM (for BitLocker) ideal, but not mandatory Docking adapter ideal, but not mandatory Good battery life For example, the ThinkPad T410 would have been my top choice, but it seems like it would be a serious chore to service its heat sink. For the current MacBook Pros it looks downright impossible. No matter how nice the laptop is in other respects, it'll be of no use to me when it's overheating. So, any suggestions? Thanks in advance... (I'm constantly surprised that customers and manufacturers don't pay more attention to this feature, at least in the business laptop subcategory. In the last couple months I've fixed two friends' laptops which were also overheating due to clogged cooling systems; clearly I'm not the only one affected by this.)

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  • What control to use

    - by Tarscher
    Hi all, I have a list of devices that I need to filter on according to options selected by the user. One such option is cooling: when the user selects cooling only the devices with cooling are shown. If cooling is not selected then all devices (with or without cooling) are shown. I wonder what kind of control I best use for this. My feeling is thata checkbox is not a good control since it represents: No cooling (unchecked) / only cooling (checked) while I want cooling and no cooling (unchecked)/ only cooling (checked). What control is best used here? Thanks.

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  • Rackmount temperature/humidity control

    - by Evan Plaice
    This may seem like a strange question because it involves a non-traditional approach. What I'm looking for is a standard rackmount cooling/humidity control module. The idea is to build a portable server rack (in a case) that can be deployed to the field but limit the cooling/temperature control requirements to just the case that the server gear is contained in. I understand that the chiller may warm it's surrounding environment so, as an additional approach, it will be possible to have a separate case for the chiller alone. Do these exist? What are they called? Where can I find one?

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  • Enable CPU fan always on

    - by Gundars Meness
    I am using 3 years old overheating laptop and I want my CPU fan to be spinning 24/7 regardless of the consequences. How to make it spin? The problem is that CPU & GPU heats up to 68°C (154 F) right after boot and never goes down, because CPU fan is not spinning full throttle. It starts spinning faster when temperature goes over 70°C and stops when it reaches seventy again. When doing heavy work on databases, it gets from 70 to 90 in no-time and automatically powers off. Bios does not contain any "fan spin 100%" options, just "spin slowly all the time" and "auto" which is more useless than the first one since my fan doesn't have pwm wire. Currently I'm solving this with cooling stand (3x5V), but it isn't much of a help. I would rather use the CPU fan since it is the only fan directly responsible for cooling down CPU/GPU. But how to make it spin 100% all the time? Should I attach it's red power wire to motherboard to get constant 5V (is there such option?), or is there an option to control it via software? Laptop: Samsung R528 2.3 GHz Intel i3 with Nvidia GeForce 310M Bios: Phoenix 03KT.M003.20100622.KSJ (and that is latest update) OS: Ubuntu 12.04.2 LTS with 3.2.0.51 kernel CPU fan: Image/Description Has 5V 0,4A and only 3 pins, no pwm. P.S. Yes, I did clean everything with alcohol, freed the air vents, changed thermal paste etc; that reduced temperature by 4 degrees.

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  • Motherboard booting without RAM in Dimm1

    - by Jesus Ramos
    Is it possible to have a motherboard boot without placing RAM in the DIMM1 slot? Our new cooling solutions for motherboards are causing us issues where some boards that have RAM with raised heatsinks will not actually fit because the DIMM1 slot is partially blocked. Currently we mount the RAM in DIMM1 and DIMM3 because it's dual channel, are there any settings that can be changed on the BIOS to allow motherboard to boot without RAM in DIMM1 such as placing the RAM in DIMM2 and DIMM4?

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  • Is a chill-pad necessary for a laptop similar to the ASUS K73E?

    - by leeand00
    Cooling fan necessary for a laptop similar to the ASUS K73E? I'm not entirely sure about this, after working with one the other day for a client, it seemed like it was running pretty cool, but I'm not sure if the computer was actually running cool or if it had more to do with IceCool Technology feature that keeps the mouse and palm rest area cool. The bottom of the laptop didn't seem very warm either...does anyone have any experience with the ASUS K73E where the thing burned up with normal usage?

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  • Data Center Design and Preferences

    - by Warner
    When either selecting a data center as a co-location facility or designing a new one from scratch, what would your ideal specification be? Fundamentally, diversified power sources, multiple ISPs, redundant generators, UPS, cooling, and physical security are all desireable. What are the additional key requirements that someone might not consider on the first pass? What are the functional details someone might not consider during the initial high level design?

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  • Games + Closed Lid = Hibernation

    - by Isaac Rabinovitch
    I have an ASUS N53S that I mainly bought for its RAM capacity. (I run a lot of VMs.) But as a bonus, it came with a fancy ATI video card. So I decided to install GTA 4 and plug it into a big monitor and settle down for some casual mayhem. But after about 5 minutes, it goes into hibernation! What gives? Since I was using an external monitor and didn't need the keyboard (using an XBox controller) I closed the lid on the laptop. Gaming is compute-intensive, so my GPU and CPU were both working hard and generating heat. Closing the lid interfered with cooling. Since I have the laptop configured to hibernate when I press the power button, the heat-triggered shutdown caused hibernation.

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  • Will an SSD help prevent laptop overheating?

    - by alex
    My laptop has a severe overheating problem, even though it's quite new (< 6 month). It's still regularly overheating to the point where it shuts down. This usually happens while playing games but sometimes while watching videos or using Skype video calls for a long time. I'm already keeping it mid-air on a cooling tray with 2 external coolers, but that doesn't seem to help. The only other thing I can think of is installing an SSD instead of the current HDD. I've read up that they generate less heat then hard drives, but can it actually make a serious difference to the heat level of the laptop? If there are any other suggestions, please feel free to comment. The laptop is a Toshiba Satellite L650D-11R.

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  • Dell Inspiron 1564 overheating but fan not switching on, how to diagnose?

    - by Smugrik
    I've got a Dell Inspiron 1564 laptop that is about one and a half years old. Since about a week, the laptop started to overheat, causing it to switch off unexpectedly... The cpu fan is working erratically, it can start to spin for a while, doing its job and cooling down the cpu before it stops, but then the temperature goes up, and the fan doesn't reacts, once the temperature reaches a critical point (over 85 celsius, checked with speedfan...), the laptop switches off... I already cleaned the vents and fan from dust, to no avail, and it was actually quite clean anyway. Drivers and bios are up-to-date, no crapware was ever installed on this machine. I don't know how to diagnose the problem, could it be the temperature sensors that sends wrong information, so the fan doesn't reacts? but then I believe the computer wouldn't detect the overheat and stop... Is there a way I can pin point the problem? Maybe some low-level diagnostic tools to check functionality of sensors and fans??? The warranty is already over so any suggestion would be welcome. Thanks!!

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  • My desktop has started overheating -- how hot is hot?

    - by Jerry
    I have a two year old desktop, some random quad core HP desktop. It used to run very quietly, but in the past month, the fans start up anytime anything "serious" is being done -- compiles, playing video, etc. Right now, speedfan and speccy report the cores are between 50C and 70C. Speedfan reports this as hot. (Nice flame icon.) Well, the system does sit on my carpet, so two weeks ago, I took off the lid, and cough *cough* it was pretty filled with dust. I got out an air can, turned on a vacuum and carefully got out all the dust that I saw on the CPU fan the case fans any fan I saw (graphics board) and blew out all the dust I could from all the circuit boards. And then I closed the case back up. It has definitely run cooler since then, but it still runs hot, and I hear high speed fan noise I never heard before. How hot is too hot? At what temps do consumer grade CPUs die? What should I be looking to do? Replace CPU fan? (It seems to work) Replace power supply fan? Assuming the dust problem is gone, where should I be looking to determine why the machine is heating up? Epilogue: After following the various pieces of advice given here, the system did run cooler, but it was still noticeably running louder (hotter) than just a few months prior. I ended up purchasing a new cpu heatsink and fan and during installation found the cooling grease from the original heatsink was just a dried, cracked layer, probably more of an insulator than heat transfer agent. With the new fan AND the new heatsink compound, the system ran much much cooler and the fan rarely turns on.

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  • Is the exhaust fan necessary?

    - by Borek
    On my new PC, the component making the most noise is the rear exhaust fan on my case (it is the only exhaust fan in my PC). I tried to disconnect it and watched temperatures in SpeedFan and CPU was usually at about 35C, peaking to about 50C when the system was under load - this doesn't look too bad. So I'm considering that I'll leave the exhaust fan disconnected permanently after which the computer is very quiet - the only noise-making components are Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro Rev.2 (CPU fan) and PSU fan (Enermax Pro 82+), both being quiet enough as far as I can tell. (My GPU has a passive cooler.) Also, those 2 components are moving parts so will provide some air flow in the case and, even better, PSU fan sucks the air out of the case so it kind of is an exhaust fan in itself. Does anyone run with the exhaust fan disconnected? You don't have to tell me that it's always better to have more air flow than less, I know that, but the noise is also a consideration for me and temperatures around 40C should be fine shouldn't they? (I might also consider getting a quieter case fan but I'm specifically interested in your opinion on the no exhaust fan scenario.)

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  • Max. Temp. on Intel Burn Test for Stock Dell Precision T3500

    - by HK1
    I'm troubleshooting an issue on a Dell Precision T3500. As part of my troubleshooting I've decided to try running a stress test using Intel Burn Test software. This machine is a stock configuration with 12GB of RAM and a Xeon W3670 processor (nothing overclocked). When I run IBT using the standard mode, SpeedFan reports a processor temperature in excess of 80C. I've seen numbers as high as 90C but even at that temperature the machine does not become unstable or crash. However, it seems way too high. This processor has a TCase of 67.9C according to Intel's website. I'm guessing that means I'm in the danger zone any time I go over that temperature. I've checked the cooling system and everything looks fine. I've even took out the heat sink and reinstalled it with new thermal compound. This did not appear to make the problem better or worse. Is there a discrepancy somewhere here in the way temperatures are measured or displayed? I've also tried using HWMonitor from CPUID and it reports the same temperatures. Should I just let the Standard Test go and disregard the temperature outputs?

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  • Is there any way to limit the turbo boost speed / intensity on i7 lap?

    - by Anonymous
    I've just got a used i7 laptop, one of these overheating pavilions from HP with quad cores. And I really want to find a compromise between the temp and performance. If I use linpack, or some other heavy benchmark, the temp easily gets to 95+, and having a TJ of 100 Degrees, for a 2630QM model, it really gets me throttling, that no cooling pad or even an industrial fan could solve. I figured later that it is due to turbo boost, and if I set my power settings to use 99% of the CPU instead of 100%, and it seems to disable the turbo boost, so the temp gets better. But then again it loses quite a bit of performance. The regular clock is 2GHz, and in turbo boost it gets to 2.6Ghz, but I just wonder if I could limit it to around 2.3Ghz, that would be a real nice thing. Also there is another question I've hard time getting answer to. It seems to me that clocks are very quickly boosting up to max even when not needed, eg, it's ok if the CPU has 0% load, the clocks get to their 800MHz, but even if it gets to about 5% it quickly jumps to a max and even popping up turbo, which seems very strange to me. So I wonder if there is any way to adjust the sensitivity of the Speed Step feature. I believe it would be more logical to demand increased clock if it hits let's say 50% load. I do understand that most of these features are probably hardwired somewhere in the CPU itself or the MB, which has no tuning options just like on many laptops. But I would appreciate if you could recommend some thing, or some software. Thanks

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  • Cannot get temperatures in Dell Studio 1558

    - by Athul Iddya
    I could never get proper temperatures on my Dell Studio 1558. lm-sensors and acpi give wrong readings. The output of sensors is, $ sensors acpitz-virtual-0 Adapter: Virtual device temp1: +26.8°C (crit = +100.0°C) temp2: +0.0°C (crit = +100.0°C) acpi -V gives me, $ acpi -V Battery 0: Full, 100% Battery 0: design capacity 414 mAh, last full capacity 369 mAh = 89% Adapter 0: on-line Thermal 0: ok, 0.0 degrees C Thermal 0: trip point 0 switches to mode critical at temperature 100.0 degrees C Thermal 0: trip point 1 switches to mode passive at temperature 95.0 degrees C Thermal 0: trip point 2 switches to mode active at temperature 71.0 degrees C Thermal 0: trip point 3 switches to mode active at temperature 55.0 degrees C Thermal 1: ok, 26.8 degrees C Thermal 1: trip point 0 switches to mode critical at temperature 100.0 degrees C Thermal 1: trip point 1 switches to mode active at temperature 71.0 degrees C Thermal 1: trip point 2 switches to mode active at temperature 55.0 degrees C Cooling 0: LCD 0 of 15 Cooling 1: Processor 0 of 10 Cooling 2: Processor 0 of 10 Cooling 3: Processor 0 of 10 Cooling 4: Processor 0 of 10 Cooling 5: Fan 0 of 1 Cooling 6: Fan 0 of 1 I suspect even hddtemp gives bogus readings as its always at 46 $ sudo hddtemp /dev/sda /dev/sda: ST9500420AS: 46°C I have gone through some bug reports and some used to have the same problem after resuming from suspend. But I always have this problem. I had updated to the latest BIOS from Windows a couple of weeks ago, will updating from Ubuntu change anything? CORRECTION: hddtemp's readings do change. Its now at 45.

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  • Does "Noctua NH-U12-DX 1366" mount on Asus p6t 1366?

    - by Andrea Ambu
    On Noctua site they state: Caution: The NH-U12DX 1366 can only be used on mainboards that have a backplate with screw threads for CPU cooler installation (such as the Intel reference backplate for Xeon 5500). The cooler is thus incompatible with Xeon 3500 and Core i7 mainboards that don’t have such a backplate. How do I know if Asus p6t has it?

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  • Portable server room air-con options

    - by Bridgette
    We are looking for portable industrial aircond for our server room which whould blow hot air to the sealing cavity, split-system is not an option (http://www.ikoo.com.au/Aircond.png). Something exactly like this would be ideal, but unfortunately not available in AUS: http://www.apc.com/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=ACPA4000&ISOCountrycode=us http://www.apcmedia.com/salestools/ASTE-6Z2RUU_R1_EN.pdf. So we pretty much looking for competing products to the APC's NetworkAIR PA4000 available in AU. ? We currently have 3 x DeLonghi Penguino PACT120, but space is limited and getting more of these is prob not ideal.

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  • What's the maximum safe temperature for a HD Radeon 6870?

    - by Adrian Grigore
    I'm running a passively cooled HD Radeon 6870 in my PC. While using 3D Acceleration, the temperature climbs up to 95 degrees Celsius according to SpeedFan. It seems a bit hot, but on the other hand I've seen other GPUs being specified to run up to 120 Degrees Celsius. The system is very stable, but Battlefield 3 crashes every few hours or so. On the other hand it might be the game's fault and not related to the GPU temperature at all. Does anyone know where I can find some manufacturer specs on the maximum allowed temperature for this GPU? Thanks, Adrian

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  • Can I use LGA775 heatsink on LGA1156 CPU?

    - by Ghostrider
    Will cooler that is designed to LGA775 CPUs install on LGA1156 CPU or are they mechanically incompatible? I'm building my first 1U server and surprise-surprise - Intel stock cooler doesn't fit (unless I'm willing to keep the case open). Places that I prefer to buy stuff from are currently out of stock on 1U 1156 heatsinks so I'm wondering if LGA775 would do the trick.

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  • Acer Aspire One getting extremely hot

    - by ascom
    I have an Acer Aspire One D250-1197. I really better type fast before it overheats again... For some reason, I'm having a problem with heat on my netbook only when I run Joli OS (Ubuntu 9.10 LTS?). When I leave it idle, with nothing running (other than the regular Joli OS desktop and a couple of doing-nothing terminals), heat slowly builds up to the point where the netbook is burning hot to the touch. I have never had this problem when running Windows 7 Starter (even though it gives me plenty of other headaches). It seems that the fan is spinning, but not fast enough to keep up with the heat buildup. Is there something wrong with the fan drivers? The computer doesn't seem to recognize that it is overheating. What can I do to solve this problem (other than shut it off or use Windows)? I'm currently on the wrong side of Earth (I mean, on vacation), so I just need a temporary fix, such as a driver I can install. Also, I have to use Linux, because I have to share out the wired connection in hotels wirelessly to the iPhones. EDIT: I'm switching from Joli OS to a more "proper" and up to date distribution (Xubuntu 13.04). I'll see if it still has the heat problem and try @nod's cpufreq idea.

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  • My hard drive seems to be overheating... what should I do?

    - by George Edison
    After a cold boot, the hard drive in my notebook jumps to 56? within an hour or so of idling. Is 56? a cause for alarm? Notes: The notebook is on a flat desk and none of the vents are obstructed. The video card is currently at 55? and the CPU at 50?. It's a Western Digital 250GB hard drive. SMART reports the drive healthy but does warn that: Edit: this problem had a very surprise ending. I inverted the notebook and unscrewed some of the panels on the back (there was one covering the hard drive, and one that provided access to the memory). I couldn't see any dust, so I simply screwed everything back together and powered it on... and it worked! The temperature is now staying at 46?, and it feels notable cooler to the touch. So I can only assume that some internal fan was malfunctioning or something. Whatever the case, it's working now so I won't complain. Edit: I have an SSD now, so temperature isn't as big an issue as it was when I had a mechanical drive.

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