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  • Make the Taskbar Buttons Switch to the Last Active Window in Windows 7

    - by The Geek
    The new Windows 7 taskbar’s Aero Peek feature, with the live thumbnails of every window, is awesome… but sometimes you just want to be able to click the taskbar button and have the last open window show up instead. Here’s a quick hack to make it work better. To better understand the problem, imagine having nine windows of the same type open on your screen, but you are primarily working in just one of the windows at a time. So every time you want to switch back, you have to click the taskbar button, and then choose the one you are using from the list, which can be pretty annoying… Now if you know your Windows 7 shortcuts, you’d know that you can simply hold down the Ctrl key while clicking on the taskbar button, and the last window will show up. In fact, you can keep holding down the Ctrl key and keep clicking, and Windows will cycle through the open windows. It’s a useful shortcut, but hardly something you want to do every single time. Instead, we’ll use a quick registry hack to make the normal click switch to the last open window—if you still want to see the thumbnail list, just hover your mouse over the button for half a second to see the full list. Manual Registry Hack for Last Active Window Open up regedit.exe through the start menu search or run box, and then head down to the following registry key: HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Explorer\Advanced Once you’re there, create a new 32-bit DWORD value on the right hand side, give it the name LastActiveClick, and set the value to 1. Once you are done, it should look something like this: Once you are done, you’ll have to log off and back on, or you can kill Explorer.exe through Task Manager and re-open it. Download the Registry Hack Instead Since you probably don’t feel like registry hacking, we’ve provided you an easy downloadable version. You can simply download the file, extract it, and then double-click on the LastActiveClick.reg file. Once you are done, you’ll have to log off and back on, just like with the manual registry hack. Download LastActiveClick Registry Hack from howtogeek.com Similar Articles Productive Geek Tips Make the Windows 7 Taskbar Work More Like Windows XP or VistaStupid Geek Tricks: Select Multiple Windows on the TaskbarReorganize Your Taskbar Buttons and Tray Icons in XP/VistaKeyboard Ninja: Create a Hotkey to Switch to Your Open Outlook WindowTaskbar Eliminator Does What the Name Implies: Hides Your Windows Taskbar TouchFreeze Alternative in AutoHotkey The Icy Undertow Desktop Windows Home Server – Backup to LAN The Clear & Clean Desktop Use This Bookmarklet to Easily Get Albums Use AutoHotkey to Assign a Hotkey to a Specific Window Latest Software Reviews Tinyhacker Random Tips DVDFab 6 Revo Uninstaller Pro Registry Mechanic 9 for Windows PC Tools Internet Security Suite 2010 Gadfly is a cool Twitter/Silverlight app Enable DreamScene in Windows 7 Microsoft’s “How Do I ?” Videos Home Networks – How do they look like & the problems they cause Check Your IMAP Mail Offline In Thunderbird Follow Finder Finds You Twitter Users To Follow

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  • 12.04 Unity 3D 80% CPU load with Compiz

    - by user39288
    EDIT : I have been able to to determine that the problem is not compiz, but is actually Xorg. I don't know why, but by quickly maximizing terminal and taking a screenshot with top running before the problem went away I am able to see xorg takes up 72% of cpu, with bamfdaemon taking up 18%, and compiz taking up 14%. Seems the nvidia drivers are to blame, will play more with settings and perhaps do a clean nvidia-current install to try to fix the problem. Having a very annoying problem with high CPU usage. Running 12.04 with latest drivers and nvidia-current installed. Have not had any issues for days, now I have a strange problem. Unity 3d runs great most of the time, 1-2% CPU usage with only transmission running in background. Windows open and close smoothly. However,no matter what programs are open, if I minimize all open programs to the unity bar on the left, my CPU jumps to about 80% and slows down all maximize and minimize effects. Mouse movement stays smooth the whole time, but unity becomes unresponsive for up to 30 seconds at times. Hitting alt + tab to bring up even a single window fixes the problem. The window I bring back up doesn't even have to be maximized to solve the problem. Hitting the super button to bring up the dash makes CPU drop back to idle until I close it, then high CPU usage resumes. Believe the problem is compiz, but even just having only terminal running "top", I have to minimize it to the tray for the problem to show, so I can't see the problem process. I can only tell about the high CPU usage using indicator-sysmonitor. Even tried quitting the indicator, but I can still tell very poor performance with all applications when minimized. Reset compiz back to defaults, tried going to the post-release update nvidia drivers, played with vsync settings in both the nvidia settings and compiz. Even forced refresh rate, but cannot solve the problem. The problem does NOT occur in Unity 2D. Specs are core 2 duo 2.0ghz, 4GB ddr2 ram, 2x 320's HDD in RAID 0, and Nvidia GTX 260M graphics card.

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  • SSH from external network refused

    - by wulfsdad
    I've installed open-ssh-server on my home computer(running Lubuntu 12.04.1) in order to connect to it from school. This is how I've set up the sshd_config file: # Package generated configuration file # See the sshd_config(5) manpage for details # What ports, IPs and protocols we listen for #Port 22 Port 2222 # Use these options to restrict which interfaces/protocols sshd will bind to #ListenAddress :: #ListenAddress 0.0.0.0 Protocol 2 # HostKeys for protocol version 2 HostKey /etc/ssh/ssh_host_rsa_key HostKey /etc/ssh/ssh_host_dsa_key HostKey /etc/ssh/ssh_host_ecdsa_key #Privilege Separation is turned on for security UsePrivilegeSeparation yes # Lifetime and size of ephemeral version 1 server key KeyRegenerationInterval 3600 ServerKeyBits 768 # Logging SyslogFacility AUTH #LogLevel INFO LogLevel VERBOSE # Authentication: LoginGraceTime 120 PermitRootLogin no StrictModes yes RSAAuthentication yes PubkeyAuthentication yes #AuthorizedKeysFile %h/.ssh/authorized_keys # Don't read the user's ~/.rhosts and ~/.shosts files IgnoreRhosts yes # For this to work you will also need host keys in /etc/ssh_known_hosts RhostsRSAAuthentication no # similar for protocol version 2 HostbasedAuthentication no # Uncomment if you don't trust ~/.ssh/known_hosts for RhostsRSAAuthentication #IgnoreUserKnownHosts yes # To enable empty passwords, change to yes (NOT RECOMMENDED) PermitEmptyPasswords no # Change to yes to enable challenge-response passwords (beware issues with # some PAM modules and threads) ChallengeResponseAuthentication no # Change to no to disable tunnelled clear text passwords #PasswordAuthentication yes # Kerberos options #KerberosAuthentication no #KerberosGetAFSToken no #KerberosOrLocalPasswd yes #KerberosTicketCleanup yes # GSSAPI options #GSSAPIAuthentication no #GSSAPICleanupCredentials yes X11Forwarding no X11DisplayOffset 10 PrintMotd no PrintLastLog yes TCPKeepAlive yes #UseLogin no #MaxStartups 10:30:60 #Banner /etc/issue.net Banner /etc/sshbanner.net # Allow client to pass locale environment variables AcceptEnv LANG LC_* Subsystem sftp /usr/lib/openssh/sftp-server # Set this to 'yes' to enable PAM authentication, account processing, # and session processing. If this is enabled, PAM authentication will # be allowed through the ChallengeResponseAuthentication and # PasswordAuthentication. Depending on your PAM configuration, # PAM authentication via ChallengeResponseAuthentication may bypass # the setting of "PermitRootLogin without-password". # If you just want the PAM account and session checks to run without # PAM authentication, then enable this but set PasswordAuthentication # and ChallengeResponseAuthentication to 'no'. UsePAM yes #specify which accounts can use SSH AllowUsers onlyme I've also configured my router's port forwarding table to include: LAN Ports: 2222-2222 Protocol: TCP LAN IP Address: "IP Address" displayed by viewing "connection information" from right-click menu of system tray Remote Ports[optional]: n/a Remote IP Address[optional]: n/a I've tried various other configurations as well, using primary and secondary dns, and also with specifying remote ports 2222-2222. I've also tried with TCP/UDP (actually two rules because my router requires separate rules for each protocol). With any router port forwarding configuration, I am able to log in with ssh -p 2222 -v localhost But, when I try to log in from school using ssh -p 2222 onlyme@IP_ADDRESS I get a "No route to host" message. Same thing when I use the "Broadcast Address" or "Default Route/Primary DNS". When I use the "subnet mask", ssh just hangs. However, when I use the "secondary DNS" I recieve a "Connection refused" message. :^( Someone please help me figure out how to make this work.

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  • Need Help with partitions and such Dual Booting 13.10 w/ windows 7

    - by Aymax
    so I've spent the past couple days freaking out about this and looking for answers, and I decided to resort to asking on forums. probably should have before I wasted 2 entire days. so I am trying to DUAL-INSTALL Ubuntu 13.10 with my x64 Windows 7 home premium computer. I have 6 gb of ram, 1TB hard drive, and a 3.3GHZ dual core processer (just in case it matters). I've managed to figure some things out. I've burned the ubuntu files onto a DVD, and I have been able to successfully run it off the disk. I also shrunk my Windows partition by 120Gb and partitioned that for Ubuntu (all using the windows Disk Manager). Problems: When I turn my computer on with the DVD in the tray, the computer cant find windows. it flashes a screen real quick that says something about not being able to find an operating system, and then goes to "grub" and asks what i want to do with Ubuntu. this scares me, because I don't know if that means that I will not be able to boot windows if I install Ubuntu. The Ubuntu 13.10 installer does not detect my Windows operating system. I only have the options to Erase everything on my drive, or "something else." I choose that, which brings me to 3 I don't understand the partition table. I have no idea which drive im selecting to install stuff on, much less which one to select. I tried to tell by the amount of memory partitioned off, but none of the numbers seem to be accurate. Plus, all the names are dev/sda(#). I know Ubuntu knows the name of my partition, because on the sidebars it shows the names of the different drives, including the partition I made; so why don't they use the names? I have no idea what I'm going to be erasing. I've read that I should know which is which by the file system type, but they are all NTFS, including the one I made. my only other option was FAT, none for EXT2 or any of that like people said to do. My main concerns are that of accidentally erasing windows or not being able to access windows. any feasible solution is helpful, weather it helps me with the install or to make Ubuntu see windows. I realize this question has been asked much, but i have found no feasible answers so far. I am relatively new to this, and have never installed an operating system before, so I do not know most of the jargon. please keep it relatively simple, please. I am not a programmer. Thanks.

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  • "No more threads can be created in the system" in Network and Sharing Center

    - by Zell Faze
    A while back I noticed on one of our laboratory computers (Windows 7, very little extra software installed) that the network connection icon in the system tray would claim that it had no network connection, even though it did. This issue would go away after the computer was rebooted, but would surface again the next time I looked at the computer (a few days later). Upon opening the Network and Sharing Center I am shown an actual error message, but not one that seems to give me a lot of information about what the problem is. In the place of the usual information about network adapters and whether you are connected to the Internet it simply says: "No more threads can be created in the system." The Event Viewer shows hundreds of events from different services also with the same message. "Volume Shadow Copy Service error: Unexpected error calling routine CoCreateInstance. hr = 0x800700a4, No more threads can be created in the system."; "The WinHTTP Web Proxy Auto-Discovery Service service failed to start due to the following error: A thread could not be created for the service."; "The IP Helper service terminated with the following error: No more threads can be created in the system." As far as I can tell, this message seems to mean that there is some sort of resource leak in Windows where something is creating a large number of threads and those threads are not being killed off? I've tried restarting WMI and several services related to networking, without avail. Can anyone provide more information on what "No more threads can be created in the system" might mean and what I might be able to do to fix the issue? Currently the only solution appears to be restarting.

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  • Put one monitor of a dual monitor windows system into standby

    - by Psycogeek
    Standby not Disabled! When running 2 monitors on windows 7 or Windows XP, I would like to be able to put one of the monitors at a time into standby. The method can be manual. When running 2 monitors , the second monitor is not always needed, shutting off the monitors own power switch will turn off the monitor, that does work Ok. Problems with that are , the delay with the monitor logo at turn on, and the power switch is not very accessable, and the switch might not live forever turning it on and off so many times. Using disable methods like devcon, WIN-P and Display, causes all the windows to properly move to the other monitor. While that is what a person would want to happen so they can get hold of the windows, that is not what I want to happen, and some things on the other monitor have to be re-arranged after a re-enable. By putting it into standby mode, nothing changes other than the monitor going into standby. Disconnecting the DVI cable still can cause the system to (properly) shift all the windows over to the one monitor, just like any of the disable methods do. That makes a mess of the windows, and is so unacceptable, that I would prefer to leave the monitor on, wasting power and the hardware, when it could easily go into standby for some time. For both monitors I am using a "MonitorOff" program that puts both monitors into standby, but I can not find a utility that will put only ONE monitor into standby for the windows system. If someone comes along and suggests "ultramon" you must know for a fact that it will put One of either of the monitors into actual standby. And it does not really suit me to use ultramon, I tested it (it was nice) and I did not feel that it was a program I wanted. The 2 monitors are running off of an ATI 4890 card, they are both hooked up DVI-I, the OS is both Windows 7 (primary) and Windows XP. In addition it would also be interesting to have seperate standby activity timers, and follow mouse kind of standby changes, but any manuel method , shortcut, batch , tray, or gadget kind of operation would be a good start.

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  • Completely automated DVD insert-rip-compress-eject workflow

    - by Kevin L.
    (Partially inspired by this question.) Background: I have a PC hidden away behind an HD LCD in custom-built entertainment center. The only visible part of the PC is an external DVD drive, mounted above the Wii. The PC happens to have Windows XP on it; Hackintoshing and Linux might be possible, but I've had issues with drivers for the sound card before. Let's just assume that OS X and Linux are a no-go unless they provide a truly awesome and simple solution for this particular problem. Goal: I would like to have a completely automated workflow for ripping DVDs. Something like this: Push the eject button on the DVD drive, insert the DVD. PC recognizes that this is a video DVD (as opposed to data). PC rips DVD to hard drive. PC finishes ripping, and ejects the DVD tray. PC compresses DVD image into some format that an Xbox 360 can read. PC copies finished compressed video file to a particular folder, so that it can be read into a WMP11 library and seamlessly played by the Xbox 360. PC cleans up all temporary files. Done. The impetus to have this be completely automated is that I’ll never need to switch the TV to the PC’s input and fiddle with the wireless keyboard. That’s just needless user intervention. The UI doesn’t have to be pretty. Nor do I care about speed. And I can probably bridge several of the gaps with some creative Perl use. But it seems likely that many (or all) of the parts should already exist. Any thoughts?

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  • The email address used to help trust my PC, is no longer valid, how do I fix that?

    - by Rod
    A few nights ago I upgraded my Windows 7 PC to Windows 8. This morning, when I logged into my PC, I noticed the little flag in the system tray, in desktop mode, had a red "X" on it. I checked it and one of the issues was my needing to tell Windows 8 that I trusted my PC. I clicked on the link to trust my PC, and saw the button to tell it to trust my PC, and so I did. After doing that it send it had sent out an email to a really old email address I had, which hasn't been valid for many years. Now what? Will that "trusting my PC" be invalid, because I can't respond to it (which certainly isn't true, if it's sending messages to so old email address). I didn't even know that Windows still had such an old email address. I'm concerned that I won't have a trust relationship with my own PC, that somehow or other whatever holds onto my information has old information and that I am not sure how to change it in as fast a manner as possible so that I can trust my own PC. How do I do these things?

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  • Dropbox failing to update?

    - by Mick
    I have two PC's at home. One XP the other Windows 7-64bit. I have a word document that I edit on either PC - to enable this I have the file stored in a Dropbox folder. This usually works fine - but sometimes I find that the file does not get updated on my windows7 PC. I.e. I edit the file on my Windows XP machine, then go to my Windows 7 PC and see that there is a previous, old, datestamp on the file and sure enough if I open up the file to have a look, I see that the latest edits are not included. If I right-click on the file and select "Browse on Dropbox website" I see that the latest file is correctly there. Surely there must be some option to say please update this file - but can find no such thing. Has something gone wrong? I should point out that my wireless internet connection is a little intermittent - could this have caused some glitch? By the way I do not leave the old file open in word on my Windows-7 PC as I can well imagine that would cause trouble. Also I should mention that the icon on the document has the little green tick on it showing that Dropbox is not in the process of doing a transfer. Also the Dropbox icon in my system tray also has the green tick - so Dropbox is not busy transferring some other file(s). If I hover the mouse over the Dropbox icon I get the tooltip "All files up to date".

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  • Toshiba Satellite U500 - Totally Damaged LCD

    - by ivan
    I accidentally damaged my Toshiba Satellite U500 laptop which resulted in a totally unusable LCD. The LCD panel has some cracks on it, and I can only see black & white spots; the laptop frame became broken/bent to where I can partially see inside the PC; the accident disassembled the CD tray, and bent the keyboard frame (which now has a weird hump). The system is still working though. It responds to my inputs (eg, turning it on/off, typing my password @ Windows Login, etc). What I want to do now is to transfer all of my important data from that laptop to my external drive. But I don't know how since the LCD screen is unreadable. I know I can connect it to an external monitor or a TV (I have a Samsung 1080p TV) but I don't know how. What cable should I purchase to connect the TV? Which ports on the laptop and TV should I connect it to? Do I need press something while/after connecting it? Can I boot my laptop using the TV?

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  • Google Desktop Search problems - unable to disable indexing and no index status page

    - by Howiecamp
    I've been running Google Desktop (I've used both the regular and Enterprise versions) without issues on my Windows 7 64-bit PC for a long time with no issues. I just paved my PC and reinstalled Google Desktop (regular edition). Initially, I want to use it only for the CTRL-CTRL launcher capability - I don't want it to do any indexing. So I unchecked all the items in the configuration dialog as well as excluded c:. Despite this, it is indexing all the content on my hard drive as well as Outlook email, etc. In my previous installations I had the same options set and they worked properly. The other problem I have is that when you right-click on the Google Desktop system tray icon, there used to be an option for "Index Status" which showed you the percentage complete the index creation process was, as well as an option to clear and rebuild the index. Those are no longer there. I uninstalled the regular edition and installed the Enterprise Edition, but same problems. Any ideas?

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  • Menu command stuck on screen

    - by 280Z28
    For some reason, periodically when I select a menu command, the command label gets "stuck" on the screen and won't go away. I can close all open applications, including whichever one I was using when it got stuck, but it still won't go away. In the screenshot below, I opened an new instance of IE just to show how the label stays on top. The label was not created by this instance of IE. Edit with the source: The label that gets stuck is the first menu command I select in IE. If a label is already stuck, a new one does not get stuck (regardless of which instance(s) of IE are involved). Based on this knowledge, I now just open IE on my secondary monitor, carefully open the context menu so the Properties command is in the bottom corner, and click it. This is not a solution... The label never moves and is transparent to mouse input (if I click it, it's as if I clicked the item behind it). The label does not go away if I close all running applications. I haven't tried stopping services or closing system tray items like Live Mesh. The label does go away if I change the screen resolution and then change it back. Any ideas how I can stop this from happening? It's happened a half dozen times since yesterday and it's becoming quite disrupting to my work. Obviously I added the circle in MS Paint. That part isn't stuck. ;)

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  • corrupted, hidden, wireless network adapter from "Network Connections" in Windows 7

    - by srihari reddy
    The issue is that when I install a wireless network adapter on my Windows 7 Professional machine I have no connectivity, the system tray icon has a red X. First, I tried the obvious, install updated drivers from the manufacturer. When I did this, the Network Connections icon had gray bars and there was no connectivity. So I tried installling the network adapter on a different computer on the same network and I verified that it does work with no issues. Next, I ran scan disk with no issues. Next, I ran sfc as admin with no issues. At this point I turned to the router and turned SSID broadcast on but that didn't help. I turned MAC address filtering off at the router but that didn't help. Whenever I installed the original network adapter (a wireless N usb adapter with WPA2 TKIP+AES) it showed up as "Wireless Network Connection 2" with a grayed out icon and no connectivity. Lastly, I tried installing two different "verified working" usb wireless adapters on to the Windows 7 Pro machine. The results were the same "Wireless Network Connection 2" that had a green bar icon but no connectivity. I installed the manufacturers software and it indicated the NIC was not there even thought the driver installed successfully in Device Manager. I guess I should mention, I first tried (insanely in vain) to use the (worthless) Windows Network troubleshooter. The results were....drumroll please... There is a problem with the network adapter... well No Duh! Also, during all of this the network adapter is always showing as "Working Properly" in the properties dialogue of Device Manager for the wireless NIC. I checked for hidden devices in Device Manager but there were none. Here is my fundamental question that I've tried to find in the Windows 7 support center with no luck. How do I remove/delete/uninstall network adapters from the Windows 7 registry? in particular hidden, corrupted network adapters, that used to be working.

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  • Utility to store/cache all web pages and YouTube videos

    - by jonathanconway
    I found myself in the following situation. I'm travelling abroad with my laptop. I connect to a WiFi point and do a bit of browsing and play a YouTube video or two. Then I disconnect and hop on either a plane or taxi. Now I want to go back to some of the webpages I was browsing before and continue reading them, or watch some more of that YouTube video. Unfortunately it seems like none of these resources are cached, or if they are, I have no idea how to access them. Here's what I'd like: A utility that starts when my computer boots and sits in the background, silently caching all the web pages that I view. Not only that, but also the resources such as YouTube videos. Later, when I re-navigate to a site while disconnected, the browser automatically pulls the pages from my cache rather than giving me a 404 error. Or I can click an icon in the system tray and see a list of all the pages/videos in the cache and view any that I like. I'm sure Internet Explorer had a feature like this at some point, like "Offline Mode" or something. But these days it doesn't seem to work. Even when I select that option I still can't view pages that I'm certain I downloaded before. So has the utility I'm talking about been developed yet?

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  • Vista WHS Client stopped resolving local names

    - by andrewcr
    I’m running Windows Home Server PP2 in my home, with 3 client computers: two XP and one Vista. I have a router that provides my local DHCP and the server has a static IP address. The other day the Vista machine hung, and on reboot stopped resolving local names. It will show the green home server client icon in the system tray, but if I attempt to log in to the console, I get a “This computer cannot connect to your home server” message. If I ping the server name from the command line, it does not resolve, and gives a “could not find host” message. Oddly enough, if I browse the network, I can see the server, but double clicking on it fails. The other machines on the local network have no problems seeing the server, and the Vista machine has no problems resolving names from the internet, it just can’t see any local machines. I’m aware that I can work around this by adding entries to my HOSTS file (it does work), but I’d like this to work the way it’s “supposed” to. I’m an experienced computer user and developer, but not a networking whiz. Can anyone tell me how local name resolution is supposed to work in my environment and/or suggest ways to troubleshoot this? Thanks, Andy

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  • I can't connect to my network, except in safe mode

    - by eidylon
    My laptop cannot connect to my network all of a sudden except in safe mode. When it boots, it will show the networks available in the tray popup, but if I click connect on any, it says "Unable to connect" and the troubleshooter is useless. Shortly thereafter all the networks disappear. I have tried removing IPv6 support as I have seen that cause problems. No joy. I've also tried removing the wireless network adapter in Device Manager and reinstalling it, also no joy. I've also tried attaching a USB wireless adapter, and it has the same problem. If I boot in safe mode, then it has no problems at all. Three other devices in the house connect fine, so I am pretty sure it is nothing to do with the router. Any ideas what to check next? I am running Win7 Ultimate on a 2GHz Quadcore with 8GB RAM with a Broadcom 802.11n wireless card. EDIT: RE wired connections: What is very weird is that if i plug in a wired connection, then not only does it connect via the wired connection, but the wireLESS also starts working perfectly. And a soon as I unplug the wire, then the wireLESS stops working again! So it seems the wireless is right now working only in safe-mode, or when a wired connection is also plugged in.

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  • BIOS unable to boot CD or Hard Drive

    - by Gabriel
    Motherboard Intel DQ35MP. HDD Caviar Green 1TB. I'm having problems with my BIOS and/or hard drive/disc drive. Came back from a trip, booted my computer, and realized that the BIOS wasn't booting anymore, just a black screen with no beep sounds. Only fans and lights on. Then I thought it might be caused by the video card, I removed it, and still no BIOS screen. Then I removed the hard drive and voila BIOS screen is back again. If the hard drive is defective then I can check that with a Rescue Disk. I inserted the CD on the Disc Tray but the computer did not respond to it, the screen freezes in black with an "E7" string at the bottom right corner just after the BIOS screen, this happens with or without discs. BIOS settings are set to default, and CD reading is on top of the boot device list. EDIT I removed the BIOS battery, rebooted the CPU, the BIOS screen showed up, and then it freezed in E7. Placed the BIOS batttery, rebooted and same thing, we are stuck with the E7 string. I uploaded a video to illustrate the problem http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=13jPdBcIrBU

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  • "Safely remove hardware"...doesn't.

    - by Kev
    I have an external USB harddisk that I have scripted to safely shut down after a backup, so the backup operator can unplug it, and knows not to if the lights are still on for some reason. It's always worked fine using the DevEject command-line utility. This week it failed for some reason: DevEject 1.0 2003 c't/Matthias Withopf Ejecting 'USB Mass Storage Device' [USB\VID_0411&PID_002A\00000704C8D2]...FAILED (23,5) Error ejecting device USB Mass Storage Device, vetoed (15,5)! Worse yet, using the SRH tray icon, I click Stop, click OK, it pauses about 5 seconds with OK and Cancel greyed out, closes the sub-window, and then the main window with the Stop button still shows the device, and Stop is still available. I can keep doing that and it never gets rid of the device. I can still access it in Explorer. LockHunter reports that nothing is locking the drive. I've made no changes to the backup configuration or anything to do with the drive this week. Why the sudden flake-out? Short of a restart, which I can't do today before the backup operator goes home, how do I fix it?

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  • Trouble with HP printer

    - by reyjavikvi
    I have a HP Photosmart C3180 (it's a printer/scanner). For some reason, it recently stopped working. The power light is blinking (I think all the other lights are one, but don't remember, I'm not there right now), and the only way to turn it off is to unplug it. It won't print anything, and when you put a page in the tray it sucks it in without printing anything on it and stops when the paper is on its way out (Again, I don't remember how we managed to get it out, sorry). This printer is hooked up to a computer running XP, but it doesn't work either when printing from the network. Weirdly, the scanner works fine. Do you have any ideas on what could be the problem? Could it be a driver problem? By the way, sorry if the question lacks a bit of detail. I don't know much about printers, and I don't have it here so I can't remember exactly all the details. If needed I can update the question tonight or tomorrow.

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  • Disc drive busy on MacBook, with disc stuck inside.

    - by ayaz
    I have a white MacBook, running Snow Leopard, 10.6.3 with the latest updates. I popped in a DVD that the system failed to mount. I did not see any conspicuous errors. As a result of this failure, the DVD got stuck in the drive. Neither pressing the eject button on the keyboard nor running the diskutil eject command caused the DVD to come out. The commands drutil eject and drutil tray open could not get the DVD to budge at all. The 'mount' and 'eject' buttons on the window for Disk Utility are dimmed out, while it is written in the middle for the DVD drive that that particular disc drive is busy. This is not the first time this has happened with me. I know that I will ultimately have to resort to rebooting the system and holding down the eject button to get the DVD to come out. But, is there any workaround that does not involve rebooting the system and prying the disc out? The drive on this MacBook does not have a needle-pin reset button -- at least, I couldn't find it anywhere. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Many thanks.

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  • Windows XP can't connect to wireless network

    - by mikez302
    I have a desktop computer with a wireless card, running Windows XP SP3. For a little while, I had a remote network connection set up for my job, but I didn't need the remote connection so I deleted it. Now, I am unable to connect to the internet at all from that computer through my wireless router. I can connect through my router using my laptop, and I can connect through my neighbor's router using my desktop, but for some reason I can't connect through my own router using my desktop. I see the "Wireless Network Connection 5" icon in my system tray, but it tells me it is not connected. When I click on the icon, I see a list of wireless networks, including my own, which is set up to automatically connect, although it doesn't. When I try to connect to my network on my own (by clicking on it, then clicking "Connect"), it asks me for my network password like it usually does. I see a box come up saying "Waiting for network to be ready..." and it hangs there. On the list of wireless networks, my network says "Acquiring network address" but it doesn't actually connect. How can I fix this? I tried rebooting my computer, repairing my connection, and restarting my router, and I am still having this problem.

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  • Why my internal hard disk can be ejected?

    - by Bear Bear
    I have 6 hard disks in my computer and one DVD. The disk that I connect to the 6th SATA port is a regular disk. But my Windows 7 64 bit shows it as a removable drive. I can eject my hard disk! Just like a pen drive. If I connect another disk to the 6th port, I can eject that disk too. So it has nothing to do with the physical disk, it must be something related to Windows or BIOS I don't understand why Windows 7 is seeing a normal hard disk as removable. In Computer Management - Disk Management, the disk looks identical to the others - there is nothing there to suggest the drive is different from the others. But in the tray I have the icon to eject it. The motherboard model is ASUS F2A85 V PRO FM2. All the disks are formatted normally, no Dynamic Disk, no RAID, nothing special. How can I tell Windows 7 to treat the disk exactly like the others, so it can't be ejected?

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  • Mac OS X duplex printing problem: one- vs. multi-paged documents

    - by Christian Lindig
    I like to print on pre-printed stationery using the Preview.app and a duplex-capable HP Color Laserjet 4700 (PostScript) printer. The print dialog handles one and two-paged documents differently: the paper needs to be placed differently into the tray if the document contains one page versus when it contains two pages. This is not obvious when printing on plain paper but becomes obvious when front and reverse side of sheets are marked. Otherwise the first page would end up on the reverse side of the first sheet. I believe the problem is caused by the printer driver setting duplex printing to false (using the PostScript setpagedevice operator) when emitting a single-page document versus keeping it set to true when emitting multi-page documents. All this despite that duplex printing is always specified in the printer dialog. When printing a single-sided document, duplex=true and duplex=false seem to make a difference with respect which side of a sheet gets printed on. It would be also helpful if others could confirm the problem actually exists. I suspect this problem is not limited to specific printers. I'm on OS X 10.6 and I checked two different HP printers.

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  • DVD drive won't work after installing software

    - by Dan
    DVD drive was already region-free but for some reason would not play a certain DVD as it was the "wrong region". This is the first time I've played a DVD on the drive, but I've imported a lot of CDs before and they always worked fine, even CDs bought from the USA (I live in the UK). To get around this, I downloaded a piece of software called "DVD Region Killer". (Clicking the link won't start the download, so go ahead and check it.) After this, the drive isn't recognised. It won't show up in "My Computer", and when I insert a disc it will start to whir but not take action, i.e. iTunes won't recognise that I have put a CD in. In the Device Manager, the drive shows up with a caution-sign. The device status reads: Windows cannot start this hardware device because its configuration information (in the registry) is incomplete or damaged. (Code 19) Disabling, uninstalling and reinstalling does not help. Clearly the software download is the issue, but it is difficult to remove. The only files I can find in Program Files are: C:\Program Files (x86)\Elaborate Bytes\DVD Region Killer which contains a changelog and a HTML document which has no info on uninstalling. It doesn't show up on "Add or Remove Programs", or even as a background process when I press ctrl-alt-del. Apparently it has no interface as such, and can be accessed by an icon in the system tray, (see review in link) but I don't see the icon. If it helps to know, I have a Dell Inspiron running Windows 8 64-bit, and the model of the DVD drive is: MATSHITA DVD+-RW UJ8C2 Thanks in advance.

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  • This .mpg video clip doesn't play well

    - by Roey
    I've installed K-lite mega codec pack v6.9.0 with playback essentials without player. My default and only media player is windows media player. here are the clip's media info: General Complete name : D:\Users\Roey\Downloads\B384MV.mpg Format : MPEG-PS File size : 273 MiB Duration : 4mn 59s Overall bit rate : 7 643 Kbps Video ID : 224 (0xE0) Format : MPEG Video Format version : Version 2 Format profile : Main@High Format settings, BVOP : No Format settings, Matrix : Default Format settings, GOP : M=1, N=15 Duration : 4mn 57s Bit rate mode : Variable Bit rate : 7 363 Kbps Nominal bit rate : 9 000 Kbps Width : 1 920 pixels Height : 1 080 pixels Display aspect ratio : 16:9 Frame rate : 25.000 fps Color space : YUV Chroma subsampling : 4:2:0 Bit depth : 8 bits Scan type : Progressive Compression mode : Lossy Bits/(Pixel*Frame) : 0.142 Stream size : 261 MiB (96%) Audio ID : 192 (0xC0) Format : MPEG Audio Format version : Version 1 Format profile : Layer 3 Mode : Joint stereo Duration : 4mn 59s Bit rate mode : Constant Bit rate : 128 Kbps Channel(s) : 2 channels Sampling rate : 44.1 KHz Compression mode : Lossy Stream size : 4.56 MiB (2%) Menu When I play it there is no sound (just a little "kahhhh" noise every 10-20 seconds) and the frames are moving very slow - it "jumps" frames. A blue tray icon [FFa] "ffdshow audio decoder" pops with the following details: Input:MP3, stereo, 44100 Hz (libavocodec) Output:PCM, stereo, 44100 Hz, 16-bit integer Any help will be much appreciated. Thanks

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