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  • A gigabit network interface is CPU-limited to 25MB/s. How can I maximize the throughput?

    - by netvope
    I have a Acer Aspire R1600-U910H with a nForce gigabit network adapter. The maximum TCP throughput of it is about 25MB/s, and apparently it is limited by the single core Intel Atom 230; when the maximum throughput is reached, the CPU usage is about 50%-60%, which corresponds to full utilization considering this is a Hyper-threading enabled CPU. The same problem occurs on both Windows XP and on Ubuntu 8.04. On Windows, I have installed the latest nForce chipset driver, disabled power saving features, and enabled checksum offload. On Linux, the default driver has checksum offload enabled. There is no Linux driver available on Nvidia's website. ethtool -k eth0 shows that checksum offload is enabled: Offload parameters for eth0: rx-checksumming: on tx-checksumming: on scatter-gather: on tcp segmentation offload: on udp fragmentation offload: off generic segmentation offload: off The following is the output of powertop when the network is idle: Wakeups-from-idle per second : 61.9 interval: 10.0s no ACPI power usage estimate available Top causes for wakeups: 90.9% (101.3) <interrupt> : eth0 4.5% ( 5.0) iftop : schedule_timeout (process_timeout) 1.8% ( 2.0) <kernel core> : clocksource_register (clocksource_watchdog) 0.9% ( 1.0) dhcdbd : schedule_timeout (process_timeout) 0.5% ( 0.6) <kernel core> : neigh_table_init_no_netlink (neigh_periodic_timer) And when the maximum throughput of about 25MB/s is reached: Wakeups-from-idle per second : 11175.5 interval: 10.0s no ACPI power usage estimate available Top causes for wakeups: 99.9% (22097.4) <interrupt> : eth0 0.0% ( 5.0) iftop : schedule_timeout (process_timeout) 0.0% ( 2.0) <kernel core> : clocksource_register (clocksource_watchdog) 0.0% ( 1.0) dhcdbd : schedule_timeout (process_timeout) 0.0% ( 0.6) <kernel core> : neigh_table_init_no_netlink (neigh_periodic_timer) Notice the 20000 interrupts per second. Could this be the cause for the high CPU usage and low throughput? If so, how can I improve the situation? As a reference, the other computers in the network can usually transfer at 50+MB/s without problems. A computer with a Core 2 CPU generates only 5000 interrupts per second when it's transferring at 110MB/s. The number of interrupts is about 20 times less than the Atom system (if interrupts scale linearly with throughput.) And a minor question: How can I find out what is the driver in use for eth0?

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  • Mouse Error Code 24. Windows 7

    - by Cj.
    I've had the same mouse for a while, and it's been working fine until one day, it started giving me a message about a device not working properly. I tried updating the drivers, and re-installing, I even deleted old drivers in case my computer should be a little confused. It never made a difference, and my mouse seemed to be working just fine despite getting the permanent error in my device manager, I looked it up several times online, but I never found anything I could actually use, when I go to official websites, I always get the same response "plug in so so into a different place - drivers - install silverlight before you can watch this tutorial, try it on a different machine". so I gave up on that. But now is where I have a real problem, lately, my little strange error evolved into a fullblown Error 24, and my mouse is starting to turn on and off randomely, especially when it is being used, but I do hear it go "badum..dadum" when I'm off doing something else. when I looked up error code 24, I really didn't find much other than it meaning: Code 24 This device is not present, is not working properly, or does not have all its drivers installed. (Code 24) Cause The device is installed incorrectly. The problem could be a hardware failure, or a new driver might be needed. Devices stay in this state if they have been prepared for removal. After you remove the device, this error disappears. But, I have tried uninstalling the device entirely several times, and it'll go right back to its previous state with error 24, and turning on and off randomely. what do I do? I cannot afford taking it to a repair place, I can't really afford a new mouse either, I refuse to buy cheap ones as I am a gamer, in need of more than 3 buttons, and a good grip is important. Could there possibly be some confusion in the registry? I do remember having gotten some early problems after I converted my vista to windows7. But I hardly dare going in there unless I'm 100% certain of what I'm going for, and I can honestly say I am at a loss here. Edit: it is a USB mouse we're talking about here. MX™518 Optical Gaming Mouse (logitech) Edit2: I am seeing no rupture, so it must be on the inside of my mouse, or inside the rubber, protecting the cable, that would be really inconvenient to search for

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  • Windows 8 disk errors

    - by wrongusername
    So yesterday, I forcibly restarted my Windows 8 PC. VMWare Workstation was having some trouble with the guest Linux Mint OS. It wasn't responding for some time, so I tried suspending it September 28th or perhaps even before. It wouldn't suspend -- I forgot what the window looked like, but all options in the power menu were disabled (i.e. "Shutdown," "Power Off," and options like that were all disabled). I eventually killed the VMWare application through Task Manager, though I was too lazy to hunt down the running virtual machine itself, and decided to kill it by just shutting down my PC entirely. The PC wouldn't shut down for quite some time after the monitor went blank, so I did a cold reset by holding the power button. I then powered it on again and Windows briefly gave me some message like "Search for KERNEL_STACK_INPAGE_ERROR." Windows then started diagnosing some problems and gave me the message, "Repairing disk errors. This might take over an hour to complete." That was yesterday night, and I went to sleep without waiting for it to finish. This morning, it said that the repair failed, and that the log was at C:\windows\system32\LogFiles\srt\srtTrail.txt (as I remember it -- I don't have the exact path I wrote down right now). It gave me some other options to troubleshoot, such as resetting Windows (files and settings still intact, but programs not installed through the app store will be erased). That didn't work (no error message given, I was just told it didn't work). I tried rebooting in safe mode, the same diagnosis process begins, except that this time it doesn't bother with the automatic repairs again. So I tried using the command prompt to try to see if my files are at least still there. I was on the X drive, and I couldn't cd to the C drive. I couldn't find my folder under Users (of course?), and couldn't find the srt folder under LogFiles either. I am not sure what to try next. I have backed up everything, but to the cloud, so if absolutely necessary I can start off with a fresh copy of Windows and restore all my data, though it would be a hassle. Any thoughts on what might be wrong or what I can try? My computer was purchased just this June, so the hard drive should still be pretty new.

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  • Strange monitor issue - screen goes black after a few seconds

    - by Scott Szretter
    My LCD monitor display is going black (turning off). It's a Samsung SYncMaster 2233 widescreen. I am trying to figure out if there is anything I can do about it, or if the monitor is junk. I have tried multiple computers, all have the same issue. I have tried a different vga cable, same issue. Power and video cables are tight / double checked. When I power on the monitor, the blue light turns on at the bottom. Then a second or two later the video comes up as expected and it looks fine. However, about 2-3 seconds after that, the screen goes black. The blue light is still on and solid at the bottom (blue light normally flashes when the monitor is sleeping). If I power cycle the monitor, same thing happens. With no computer connected or when I unplug the vga cable, I see the searching for signal message "digital", then the screen goes black. However it usually shows "digital" then "analog" after that and switches between the two a few times. The buttons on the side do not do anything, although they may be, I just can not see if they are or not. I can usually get the "digital" message by pressing the buttons on the side, but then it quickly goes black again. What is really strange is sometimes I can get it to work fine. I am not sure what the difference is. Last week I connected it up and it worked fine and it stayed fine for at least a week! I did not turn it off or anything, I just let the OS put the display to sleep. Then this week one morning I started having the screen going black issue again. Seems like something is either loose inside or beginning to fail. Do you think there is any hope for it? update: pushing the input select button causes the "digital" and "analog" messages to flash on the screen, but only for a few seconds then it goes black. When it was working properly, those messages would flash back and fourth for probably 10-20 seconds then a message would show saying check input signal, but now just a black screen.

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  • New harddrives failing within weeks.

    - by Jason Kealey
    I've experienced 8 hard disk failures in 3 months and have tried many things to solve the issue permanently but I have failed. I would like to know if you have any advice for me. System was running Win XP on an Asus P5W-DH Deluxe. I have setup a RAID-1 array. I started out with 2 x 500 GB 7200RPM Western Digital drives. One died. I took it out to RMA it. On the same day, the router was fried. Assumed a power surge occurred; connected an older UPS to protect the system. Once I got my hands on an identical disk, I installed it. The RAID array was rebuilt. A few days later, the other one died. Assumed the rebuild caused it to fail. Took it out for RMA. Before the other one arrived, the remaining one died. I then discovered I could re-enable them using the Intel Matrix Storage Manager. I re-enabled both and the system seemed fine for a week, until both died again. I got two new 1.5 TB 7200RPM Seagate drives and re-installed Windows 7. Also replaced the UPS and power supply. They both died again. The voltage on the plug is stable between 120 and 122V as per the UPS. None of the other devices have had any problems (monitors, etc.). At this point, I see two options: a) electrical issue in the house that was, for some reason, not blocked by the UPS. b) something else inside the system causing surges? motherboard? onboard raid controller? Failures happen fairly quickly, between 2 and 14 days after I fix the previous issue. I just gotten a new computer (Core i7) to replace it. If it is stable, I can determine that b) was the problem. If it fries its hard drive again, I can determine that it is an electrical issue in the house. Do you have any other thoughts? Any tools I can run on the drives that failed to get more information about the original SMART event history?

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  • iTunes and Hulu Playback Choppy and Slow?

    - by Bart Silverstrim
    Specs: Windows XP, latest updates 1.7 ghz Pentium 4 1 gig ram DirectX 9.0c NVIDIA GeForce FX 5200 with 256 meg RAM OpenGL 2.1 The story: Okay, I had an older system laying around that I figured I would try turning into a mini-media system to connect to our TV. I put together a lot of older parts, got it into working order, etc. and hooked it up and voila'...slower, but usable system that displayed to the TV. It could run some things decently. I put in iTunes, it played video okay. Not great, but okay. Played Hulu and since we have a 1Mb download rate, the minimum for their site, there were some choppy moments when watching their shows, but I found that (sadly) changing resolution to 800x600 seemed to help with the issue when running full screen. I downloaded the application called Boxee and installed it. It wouldn't run; apparently the video card in the system supported OpenGL 1.2, and needed at least 1.4. I bought a cheap card, the 5200, with four times the memory in it and support for OpenGL 2.1. Installed, everything seemed fine. iTunes seemed to run fine, the video driver (PNY video card) came with OpenGL 2.1, and Boxee finally ran. I then upgraded to the latest drivers for the video card and ran the DirectX updater from MS. After that, the OpenGL Extension Viewer wouldn't run. It just stayed as an icon in the task bar. Also, any and all videos in iTunes stuttered and went out of sync horribly. Unwatchable. I tried watching Hulu video in Boxee, and it displayed video like it was a series of stills in a very bad powerpoint. Playing straightforward audio-only came through fine, no stutters no hiccups. I tried system restore to roll back updates to pre-directX updates (I thought that seemed to be the time that triggered the weird behavior), no joy. I tried uninstalling and reinstalling the video drivers. I installed updated audio drivers (ensoniq audiopci), nothing helped. I finally wiped the drive last night and tried reinstalling everything and restoring my iTunes content via an import from a backup. Fresh install, no updater on the video card or directx. the problem was still there although I haven't tested Hulu, the iTunes player is still stuttering like crazy if I play video, fine if I play audio. I know the processor isn't high in heft, but with one gig of RAM and the fact that it seemed to do okay before I thought that the problem must be software related. Has anyone else run into this sort of issue and have a solution other than "buy a new computer"? What specs seem to work with video at the low end for you? Right now the system is of little use other than keeping my music library and iTunes apps synced with my iPod.

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  • How to flip video feed that's presented upside down?

    - by Zuul
    Skype an other applications running under windows 7 Ultimate are presenting the video captured from the laptop built-in webcam upside down. I've tried many solution that I was able to find regarding issues like this, but to no avail. Some of the most relevant are discussed here: From Skype Support Network, the thread why is my video image of myself upside-down??? From ASUSTek Forums, the thread Built-in camera upside down Both present several potential solutions to this issue, but I've been unable to fix it for the laptop ASUS U6S. What I've already tried: Changing Drivers The driver that works must be the one from Windows, all others available from ASUS drivers either don't install or install but the webcam doesn't provide any video feed. This disallows all options that concern using an older driver or editing the .inf file as to manually adjust the settings. ASUS does not provide drivers for Windows 7, so I've used drivers from Windows Vista 32 Bit. Using the application manycam This application actually solves the issue (temporarily), but creates new ones: If I use the application to flip the video feed, Skype video call cease to work. This application doesn't save the settings, at least I wasn't able to find any way to save the settings I've used to flip the video feed. A computer restart brings all back to how it was, video feed upside down and if the application is still installed, Skype continues to fail on video calls. Regedit I've searched thru Windows Registry Editor as to find any reference to the webcam settings, hopping to find a key with the Flip parameter, since it's up to the driver to flip the image (by what I could ascertain from this problem). Couldn't find any reference to such settings, either they actually don't exist within the Windows Registry or they use some weird name that I could think off. System Configuration I was able to access the webcam system settings from the Windows Device Manager, but the tab that actually has the Image Rotation setting is always disabled. The same goes for the settings available from the Skype webcam options (that essentially is presenting the same settings as Windows Device Manager, just within a custom Skype pop-up). Question: How can I flip the video feed from the laptop's built-in webcam, as to properly see and broadcast the video?

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  • If Nvidia Shield can stream a game via wifi, why can I not do the same via ethernet to any other PC?

    - by Enigma
    I think it absurd that a wireless game streaming solution is the *first to hit the market when a 1000mbps+ Ethernet connection would accomplish the same feat with roughly 6x the available bandwidth. I can only assume that there must be some reason behind this or a limitation preventing this, but what? 150mbps wifi is in no way superior to a 1000mbps LAN connection aside from well wireless mobility. Not only that but I have a secondary laptop and desktop which should by hardware comparison completely outperform anything the Tegra in the Nvidia Shield can do. Is this all just a marketing scheme to force people to buy the shield for the streaming benefit? Chief among these is that NVIDIA’s Shield handheld game console will be getting a microconsole-like mode, dubbed “Shield Console Mode”, that will allow the handheld to be converted into a more traditional TV-connected console. In console mode Shield can be controlled with a Bluetooth controller, and in accordance with the higher resolution of TVs will accept 1080p game streaming from a suitably equipped PC, versus 720p in handheld mode. With that said 1080p streaming will require additional bandwidth, and while 720p can be done over WiFi NVIDIA will be requiring a hardline GigE connection for 1080p streaming (note that Shield doesn’t have Ethernet, so this is presumably being done over USB). Streaming aside, in console mode Shield will also support its traditional local gaming/application functionality. - http://www.anandtech.com/show/7435/nvidia-consolidates-game-streaming-tech-under-gamestream-brand-announces-shield-console-mode ^ This is not acceptable for me for a number of reasons not to mention the ridiculousness of having a little screen+controller unit sitting there while using a secondary controller and screen instead. That kind of redundant absurdity exemplifies how wrong of a solution that is. They need a second product for this solution without the screen or controller for it to make sense... at which point your just buying a little computer that does what most other larger computers do better. All that is required, by my understanding, is the ability to decode H.264 video compression and transmit control/feedback so by any logical comparison, one (Nvidia especially) should have no difficulty in creating an application for PC's (win32/64 environment) that does the exact same thing their android app does. I have 2 video cards capable of streaming (encoding) H.264 so by right they must be capable of decoding it I would think. I haven't found anything stating plans to allow non-shield owners to do this. Can a third party create this software or does it hinge on some limitation that only Nvidia can overcome? (*) - perhaps this isn't the first but afaik it is the first complete package.

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  • Why does Excel now give me already existing name range error on Copy Sheet?

    - by WilliamKF
    I've been working on a Microsoft Excel 2007 spreadsheet for several days. I'm working from a master template like sheet and copying it to a new sheet repeatedly. Up until today, this was happening with no issues. However, in the middle of today this suddenly changed and I do not know why. Now, whenever I try to copy a worksheet I get about ten dialogs, each one with a different name range object (shown below as 'XXXX') and I click yes for each one: A formula or sheet you want to move or copy contains the name 'XXXX', which already exists on the destination worksheet. Do you want to use this version of the name? To use the name as defined in destination sheet, click Yes. To rename the range referred to in the formula or worksheet, click No, and enter a new name in the Name Conflict dialog box. The name range objects refer to cells in the sheet. For example, E6 is called name range PRE on multiple sheets (and has been all along) and some of the formulas refer to PRE instead of $E$6. One of the 'XXXX' above is this PRE. These name ranges should only be resolved within the sheet within which they appear. This was not an issue before despite the same name range existing on multiple sheets before. I want to keep my name ranges. What could have changed in my spreadsheet to cause this change in behavior? I've gone back to prior sheets created this way and now they give the message too when copied. I tried a different computer and a different user and the same behavior is seen everywhere. I can only conclude something in the spreadsheet has changed. What could this be and how can I get back the old behavior whereby I can copy sheets with name ranges and not get any errors? Looking in the Name Manager I see that the name ranges being complained about show twice, once as scope Template and again as scope Workbook. If I delete the scope Template ones the error goes away on copy however, I get a bunch of #REF errors. If I delete the scope Workbook ones, all seems okay and the errors on copy go away too, so perhaps this is the answer, but I'm nervous about what effect this deletion will have and wonder how the Workbook ones came into existence in the first place. Will it be safe to just delete the Workbook name manager scoped entries and how might these have come into existence without my knowing it to begin with?

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  • Educate me - should I buy these prebuilt NAS (which is better) or make my own?

    - by user29336
    I'm trying to learn as much as possible, and I think I've learned quite a bit so bear with me here under my confusion. I found a coupe NAS setups. I'm not sure if one is better than the other, other than the price being higher on some, and some coming with drives VS not. Let me list my setup so you can get an idea of what I want to provide: Macbook Pro Macbook Mini for Media streaming (so far) Windows 7 Gaming Computer Xbox 360 I'd like to provide a storage system for all these devices so they can access files very easily, I'd also like any of these devices to be able to stream media from this storage system. I'd like this storage system to be hassle free in terms of my confidence in the data integrity. If a drive fails, I want to know that I can replace the drive and all my files will still exist. I'd like to access this storage system OUTSIDE of my LAN. If I'm out on a job for work I'd like to go in, or be able to have people DL some files. This brings me to a question, is this what iSCSI is? I'd like this data system to be able to download torrents. I want to mount any drive on this storage system onto my OSX laptop as if it were a local drive attached. (Is this with iSCSI is?) I'd like this system to have a GOOD web based GUI. I don't want to install software to use it. I believe those are the most of my requirements. If I'm missing something that I have no knowledge about, can someone educate me? Here are the systems I found: $729ish on Newegg Lacie 5Big Network 2 (comes with 5TB of space. iSCSI / mac compatible, torrents, nice ui, + others?) Is this overpriced for what it provides? It almost seems like a great deal to me because of the 5TB of space it comes with vs the other NAS systems that don't come with storage but cost $600-700. Should I get a different NAS system? Netgear? Others? Do they have same features? Better? Is it better to buy your own disks? What about making my own? I'm tech savy all around. It seems cheaper to buy a premade one especially with the support/warranty it provides...

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  • I can't delete a directory inside a junctioned directory

    - by Fredy Muñoz
    So this is the deal. A couple of days ago I moved my profile folder C:\Documents and Settings\fmunoz to a different drive D:\fmunoz. Today, I created a directory in my desktop using the point-and-click method: Right-click on an empty space in the desktop Select New Select Folder Leave the default name New Folder and press Enter I tried to delete the folder using the point-and-click method: Right-click the New Folder directory Select Delete After five seconds, I got the following message: --------------------------- Error Deleting File or Folder --------------------------- Cannot delete New Folder: Access is denied. Make sure the disk is not full or write-protected and that the file is not currently in use. --------------------------- Initially I thought that there must be some sort of indexing services locking the directory so I got a list of open files using the TuneUp Process Manager tool but the New Folder directory wasn't there. I double-clicked My Computer, navigated to the desktop directory C:\Documents and Settings\fmunoz\Destkop, tried to delete the New Folder directory using the same point-and-click method described above and got exactly the same message at the same amount of time. In the same window, I navigated to the actual location of the desktop directory D:\fmunoz\Desktop, tried to delete the New Folder directory and this time it worked. I thought that this behavior was due to some special treatment that Windows gives to the desktop or the profile directories so I tried doing the same thing with a different set of directories: Created a folder D:\dummy Created a junction C:\dummy pointing to D:\dummy Created a New Folder directory in C:\dummy Tried to delete New Folder from C:\dummy. Didn't work. Tried to delete New Folder from D:\dummy. It worked. I tried creating the folder in the actual directory rather than the junction directory: Created a New Folder directory in D:\dummy Tried to delete New Folder from C:\dummy. Didn't work. Tried to delete New Folder from D:\dummy. It worked. I also tried using the Delete button instead of using the Delete option of the context menu but it didn't work. When using the Shift+Delete sequence, it works. It also works by using the rd command in the console, but in both cases the deleted directory doesn't goes to the Recycle Bin, which is my intention when using the Delete context menu option or the Delete button.

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  • USB hard drive not recognized

    - by user318772
    Until recently I was using the portable USB hard drive in my win 7 laptop and ubuntu laptop. Suddenly now none of the laptops recognize it. This is the message i get by doing lsusb... Bus 001 Device 004: ID 1058:1010 Western Digital Technologies, Inc. Elements External HDD Bus 001 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub Bus 005 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0001 Linux Foundation 1.1 root hub Bus 004 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0001 Linux Foundation 1.1 root hub Bus 003 Device 003: ID 0b97:7762 O2 Micro, Inc. Oz776 SmartCard Reader Bus 003 Device 002: ID 0b97:7761 O2 Micro, Inc. Oz776 1.1 Hub Bus 003 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0001 Linux Foundation 1.1 root hub Bus 002 Device 002: ID 413c:a005 Dell Computer Corp. Internal 2.0 Hub Bus 002 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0001 Linux Foundation 1.1 root hub fdisk doesn't show the external hard drive Disk /dev/sda: 80.0 GB, 80026361856 bytes 255 heads, 63 sectors/track, 9729 cylinders, total 156301488 sectors Units = sectors of 1 * 512 = 512 bytes Sector size (logical/physical): 512 bytes / 512 bytes I/O size (minimum/optimal): 512 bytes / 512 bytes Disk identifier: 0x0004a743 Device Boot Start End Blocks Id System /dev/sda1 * 2048 152111103 76054528 83 Linux /dev/sda2 152113150 156301311 2094081 5 Extended /dev/sda5 152113152 156301311 2094080 82 Linux swap / Solaris when i do testdisk TestDisk 6.14, Data Recovery Utility, July 2013 Christophe GRENIER <[email protected]> http://www.cgsecurity.org TestDisk is free software, and comes with ABSOLUTELY NO WARRANTY. Select a media (use Arrow keys, then press Enter): >Disk /dev/sda - 80 GB / 74 GiB - ST980825AS Disk /dev/sdb - 2199 GB / 2048 GiB testdisk-> Intel->analyse I get partition error Disk /dev/sdb - 2199 GB / 2048 GiB - CHS 2097152 64 32 Current partition structure: Partition Start End Size in sectors Partition: Read error Here is the output of dmesg [11948.549171] Add. Sense: Invalid command operation code [11948.549177] sd 2:0:0:0: [sdb] CDB: [11948.549181] Read(16): 88 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 08 00 00 [11948.550489] sd 2:0:0:0: [sdb] Invalid command failure [11948.550495] sd 2:0:0:0: [sdb] [11948.550499] Result: hostbyte=DID_OK driverbyte=DRIVER_SENSE [11948.550505] sd 2:0:0:0: [sdb] [11948.550508] Sense Key : Illegal Request [current] [11948.550514] Info fld=0x0 [11948.550519] sd 2:0:0:0: [sdb] [11948.550525] Add. Sense: Invalid command operation code [11948.550531] sd 2:0:0:0: [sdb] CDB: [11948.550534] Read(16): 88 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 08 00 00 [11948.551870] sd 2:0:0:0: [sdb] Invalid command failure [11948.551876] sd 2:0:0:0: [sdb] [11948.551880] Result: hostbyte=DID_OK driverbyte=DRIVER_SENSE [11948.551885] sd 2:0:0:0: [sdb] [11948.551888] Sense Key : Illegal Request [current] [11948.551895] Info fld=0x0 [11948.551900] sd 2:0:0:0: [sdb] [11948.551905] Add. Sense: Invalid command operation code [11948.551911] sd 2:0:0:0: [sdb] CDB: [11948.551914] Read(16): 88 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 08 00 00 If possible i want to retrive at least some data from this hard drive. If thats not possible I would like to format it and use it. Any help will be greatly appreciated Thanks

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  • Cannot access boot menu with compaq 8510p

    - by pinouchon
    I have a problem with my HP compaq 8510p laptop: when I start it, the fan starts and the power light is on, but the screen displays nothing. When I insert a bootable hard drive, it activates the hard drive light (meaning that the CD is recognized) but it stops after a few seconds. Same thing with any hard drive: the drive is recognized but does not boot. What I've tried so far: Changing the hard drive or booting with no hard drive (same problem) Plugging anoher display via VGA : no display on the other screen Inserting a windows-7 CD (same problem) Booting only on battery, with battery and power cable, only with power cable (same problem) So it looks like something is preventing the laptop from booting and displaying the boot menu. Do you have experienced something similar with a laptop ? What could be wrong ? The laptop is out of warranty. The system used to be windows-7 x64. Edit: I went to the help desk of my university. A guy took a look (he also tried to plug an external screen) and said that the computer is dead: on the HP laptops eventually the GPU card dies and so does the motherboard because they are linked. He saw this many times, and even if I can fix the problem, the laptop would crash again after a while. Do you have similar experience with HP laptops ? (mine is 4 years old) Edit 2: Believe it or not, my laptop is magically working again. I have no clue about what is going on. Now it is like starting and old car: when you turn it on you secretly hope it will actually start... With that said, I expect my laptop to break again in the near future (its an HP after all) and I will accept an answer or add my own accordingly. Edit 3: As expected, the laptop is down again. This time, sometimes when I power it up, it shuts down automatically after 3 seconds, sometimes not at all. In addition, when it does not shut down on its own, the power button does not work : the only way to shut it down is by unplugging the battery. As before, the screen is black, and only the power and battery lights are on. (the other ones: hard drive and wifi are off). I have tried to plug in another power plug, removing the battery and removing the hard drive without success. I might buy another laptop. I've brought the laptop to a repair shop. The problem is indeed that the graphic card is down. It will be replaced by a new one.

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  • QNAP (469L) with Debian: can't connect to router

    - by agtoever
    I've been running my QNAP 469L with Debian (Wheezy deb7u3) for a few months. Yesterday I upgraded the memory to 4 GB. The system boots fine, but since the upgrade, I'm not able to connect the server to my router (a TP-Link WR941ND). My configuration: The router runs a DHCP server (192.168.67.100 and up), with a preconfigured ip address for the QNAP (192.168.67.10). The router is on 192.168.67.1. As said, Debian is installed on the QNAP (which can be regarded as a normal computer). Networking hardware on the QNAP: Intel PRO/1000 Network Connection using the e1000e kernel module. This is what I have tried so far: Replace the network cable (tried 3 different cables on different router ports). Check for messages from the kernel: dmesg | grep eth. Besides the normal hardware messages I get a ADDRCONF(NETDEV_UP): eth0: link is not ready for each call to ifup. Manually restart the network sudo server networking restart Check sudo ifconfig (eth0 is up, but no ip addresses). Check the /etc/network/interfaces which has (besides the loopback device) an allow-hotplug eth0 and iface eth0 inet dhcp, which is afaik the default Debian configuration. Since the server has two ethernet ports, I checked if I'm using the right port (checked the hardware address that ifconfig reports for eth0 is the same as the hardware address that is in the preconfigured ip address for the server in the router. Do a manual sudo ifdown eth0 && sudo ifup eth0 with no results (but an extra ADDRCONF(NETDEV_UP): eth0: link is not ready in the kernel log) Do a dhcp request dhclient -v eth0: for about a minute requests are send (according to the terminal) and at the end I get a No DHCPOFFERS received. No working leases in persistent database - sleeping.. Check the router system log if DHCP requests are received. I see them for some devices (my Mac, my iPhone) but not from the QNAP. The log entry looks like: DHCPS:Recv REQUEST from 84:85:06:07:75:6A and then a DHCPS:Send ACK to 192.168.67.101. There are no records from the QNAP's hardware address. So the two error messages that I do get are: ADDRCONF(NETDEV_UP): eth0: link is not ready for every ifup and No DHCPOFFERS received. No working leases in persistent database - sleeping. for every DHCP call.

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  • Galaxy Tab 3 producing continuous LightSensor error in LogCat

    - by Richard Tingle
    I am using a Galaxy Tab 3 as a test device for writing an android app. As such I'm interested in the output of the LogCat which is being filled with these error level messages. The device itself appears to work correctly, apps which rely on the light sensor correctly respond to it and the number in the error itself goes down if the light sensor is obscured. If I wasn't using it to develop apps I wouldn't even be aware of the issue but I believe it is an issue with the device itself not my app: simply plugging the tab 3 into the computer and using Eclipse - ADT to look at the LogCat without any app running leads to these errors being shown. I know I could filter the LogCat to ignore these errors but inconvenience aside; they concern me. A sample of the log cat is below (it generates errors continuously). This is on verbose so it includes some debug level (D/) messages as well as the error level messages (E/). How can I correct the device to no longer generate these errors. 06-11 10:08:45.789: E/LightSensor(377): LightSensor::readEvents mPendingEvent.light = 14 06-11 10:08:45.992: E/LightSensor(377): LightSensor::readEvents mPendingEvent.light = 14 06-11 10:08:46.195: E/LightSensor(377): LightSensor::readEvents mPendingEvent.light = 14 06-11 10:08:46.398: E/LightSensor(377): LightSensor::readEvents mPendingEvent.light = 14 06-11 10:08:46.601: E/LightSensor(377): LightSensor::readEvents mPendingEvent.light = 14 06-11 10:08:46.804: E/LightSensor(377): LightSensor::readEvents mPendingEvent.light = 14 06-11 10:08:47.007: E/LightSensor(377): LightSensor::readEvents mPendingEvent.light = 14 06-11 10:08:47.210: E/LightSensor(377): LightSensor::readEvents mPendingEvent.light = 14 06-11 10:08:47.414: E/LightSensor(377): LightSensor::readEvents mPendingEvent.light = 14 06-11 10:08:47.617: E/LightSensor(377): LightSensor::readEvents mPendingEvent.light = 14 06-11 10:08:47.820: E/LightSensor(377): LightSensor::readEvents mPendingEvent.light = 14 06-11 10:08:48.023: E/LightSensor(377): LightSensor::readEvents mPendingEvent.light = 14 06-11 10:08:48.039: D/dalvikvm(15201): GC_CONCURRENT freed 1947K, 17% free 16973K/20359K, paused 13ms+13ms, total 50ms 06-11 10:08:48.226: E/LightSensor(377): LightSensor::readEvents mPendingEvent.light = 14 06-11 10:08:48.429: E/LightSensor(377): LightSensor::readEvents mPendingEvent.light = 13 06-11 10:08:48.632: E/LightSensor(377): LightSensor::readEvents mPendingEvent.light = 13 06-11 10:08:48.632: D/STATUSBAR-NetworkController(472): refreshSignalCluster: data=0 bt=false 06-11 10:08:48.835: E/LightSensor(377): LightSensor::readEvents mPendingEvent.light = 14 06-11 10:08:49.039: E/LightSensor(377): LightSensor::readEvents mPendingEvent.light = 14 06-11 10:08:49.242: E/LightSensor(377): LightSensor::readEvents mPendingEvent.light = 14 06-11 10:08:49.445: E/LightSensor(377): LightSensor::readEvents mPendingEvent.light = 13 06-11 10:08:49.632: D/STATUSBAR-NetworkController(472): refreshSignalCluster: data=0 bt=false 06-11 10:08:49.648: E/LightSensor(377): LightSensor::readEvents mPendingEvent.light = 14 06-11 10:08:49.851: E/LightSensor(377): LightSensor::readEvents mPendingEvent.light = 13

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  • Display is slightly blurry on (native) 1920x1080 resolution

    - by Martin Tuskevicius
    I have a computer monitor that is approximately 23" in size. Its native resolution is 1920x1080, and Windows 7 will not allow it to be any higher. However, I cannot make the resolution a little lower as well. When I right-click on my desktop and select 'Screen resolution,' the vertical slider has only two options: 1920x1080 and 1280x720. There are no real problems that I am having besides the fact that the image is slightly blurry. I can easily make things out and see them, but I definitely feel that the image is not as clear as it could be. My graphics card is ATI Radeon HD 5450 and it has the latest graphics drivers installed. I've tried playing around with the AMD VISION Engine Control Center to see if I can change an option to make the image clearer, but I had no luck. I did find one odd thing, though. When I lowered the refresh rate from 60Hz to 50Hz, the image kind of "zoomed in" but it also became perfectly clear like I would expect it to look. The problem is that when I use 50Hz, the image zooms in a little on the center and I lose maybe an inch and a half of the screen (I do not see the bar at the top of applications, I do not see the Windows taskbar thing, etc). I figured if I could somehow zoom in so that the entire image fills the screen (not the slightly cropped version) then I would have the perfectly crisp image of 50Hz, and also the uncropped image of 60Hz. However, upon zooming in, the image began to look blurry again just like it did with 60Hz. So I am at a loss here. I do not know how to make the image look as clear as it should. I have the latest drivers (I updated them today) and I know that my monitor supports the resolution that I am trying to use. Has anybody experienced something like this before? I'd really appreciate any input - thanks! Update: I have figured out how to make the display look crisp! I set it to the 50Hz option, and then I changed the scaling through the monitor itself, rather than software. Now, however, I am finding that games look pretty bad because since it is clear, the lower quality really becomes apparent. I cannot run new games at 1080p, so I run them at the lowest resolution possible (1280x720, since it is the only other option offered, as I have mentioned). So I am wondering, is there a way to have Windows display more resolution options?

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  • How to install RAID drivers on already installed Windows 7?

    - by happysencha
    64-bit Windows 7 Ultimate 6GB RAM Intel i7 920 Intel X25-M SSD 80GB 2,5" Club 3D Radeon HD5750 GA-EX58-UD4P Motherboard I've been running fine with Windows 7 installed on the SSD. I wanted to create an mirrored Raid-1 setup for backups using two hard disks, so I ordered two Samsung HD203WI. This motherboard supports two different RAID controllers, the Intel's ICH10R and Gigabyte's SATA2 SATA controller. There are 6 SATA ports behind the ICH10R and 2 SATA ports for the Gigabyte controller. I googled around and seemed that the ICH10R is a better choice and since then I've been trying to make it work. When I activate the [RAID] mode from BIOS, the Windows 7 gives BSOD exactly as described by this guy: "Windows 7 will start to boot, it gets to the screen where there are 4 colors coming together and it blue screens and restarts no matter what I do." First thing I did: turned off the RAID and booted to Windows and tried to install the SATA RAID drivers from Gigabyte. I launch the driver installation program and it gives "This computer does not meet the minimum requirements for installing the software" error. I then tried Intel's Rapid Storage Technology drivers (which apparently is the same as the one offered at Gigabyte's site), but it resulted in exactly the same error. I then detached the new Samsung hard disks from the SATA ports, but left the [RAID] enabled in BIOS. To my surprise, it still BSOD'd, so at this point I knew it is an OS/driver issue. Also, I tried with the Gigabyte's RAID enabled (while the ICH10R RAID disabled) and it booted just fine. So then I thought, that maybe I can't install the RAID drivers from within the OS. So I caused the BSOD on purpose once again, and then with ICH10R RAID activated and Samsung hard disks attached, I choose the Windows 7 Recovery mode in the boot menu. It sees some problem(s), tries to repair, does not succeed and does not ask for drivers (which I put on a USB stick) to install. I also tried to use the command-line in the recovery: "rundll32 syssetup, SetupInfObjectInstallAction DefaultInstall 128 iaStor.inf" but it gave "Installation failed." So I'm clueless how should I proceed. Do I really need to re-install Windows 7 and load RAID drivers in the Win7 setup? I don't want to install any OS on the RAID, the Windows 7 is and will be on the SSD. I just want to have a RAID-1 backup using those two hard disks. I mean why would I need to re-install operating system to add RAID setup?

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  • Wireless Network suddenly cant connect after Windows update

    - by vinir
    UPDATE: As my patience started to end, the laptop started to display symptoms of other malfunctions, so I ended up returning it to Asus and actually had the price of the laptop back in store credit. I did not solve the problem per se, but as I don't have the notebook and the screen, the keyboard, the touchpad and other parts were malfunctioning, I can safely assume that it was put to rest. I don't know how to behave when my question isn't actually answered, but was "solved", so I placed this over here. Anyone that knows how to end this topic, I would appreciate the heads up. Thanks for everything, everyone, it's nice to see that this topic in the community was active even when all this time had passed. vinir So I bought an ASUS K43E notebook earlier this year and built a wireless conection to link it to. It worked great for the first weeks, but then I updated my Windows 7 Home Basic with the daily updates; After that my home network couldn't be reached no matter what I did. I have linux on dual boot on the same notebook and it can connect to my home wireless network flawlessly. I have a hunch that it's somehow related to the Network Profile settings. I have noticed my network was set as "Home network", but after the system updates I got changed to "Public". Now I can't connect to it to change the profile settings. My Atheros Network adapter is updated to the latest driver (march 2012), and I still can't connect. The funny thing is that the same thing happened to my mother's notebook, as it has the same Network Adapter, Atheros AR9285, as I recall it. I managed to fix it on my mother's computer by using an specific network LSP and profiling reset that was available through her notebook's antivirus program, avast! Internet Security. I can't get that to work on my notebook, but I suspect that some related tool might just make it work too. So the question is: how to modify a network's profile and settings that were stored in my notebook? I can't connect to the specific network on Windows, as stated before.

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  • How to find the process(es) which are hogging the machine

    - by Aaron Digulla
    Scenario: All of a sudden, my computer feels sluggish. Mouse moves but windows take ages to open, etc. uptime says the load is 7.69 and raising. What is the fastest way to find out which process(es) are the cause of the load? Now, "top" and similar tools isn't the answer because they either show CPU or memory usage but not both at the same time. What I need is the single command which I might be able to type as it happens - something that will figure out any of System is trying to swap 8GB of RAM to disk because process X ... or process X seeks all over the disk or process X uses 400% CPU" So what I'm looking for is iostat, htop/atop and similar tools run into one with an output like this: 1235 cp - Disk trashing 87 chrome - Uses 2&nbsp;GB of RAM 137 nfs_bench - Uses 95% of the network bandwidth I don't want a tool that gives me some numbers which I can analyze but a tool that tells me exactly which process causes the current load. Assume that the user in front of the keyboard barely knows how to write "process", but the user is quickly overwhelmed when it comes to "resident size", "virtual memory" or "process life cycle". My argument goes like this: A user notices a problem. There can be thousands of reasons ... well, almost :-) The user wants to know the source of the problem. The current solutions give me lots of numbers, and I need to know what these numbers mean. What I'm looking for is a meta tool. 99% of the data is irrelevant to the problem. So what the tool should do is look for processes which hog some resource and list only those along with "this process needs a lot of CPU, this produces many IRQs, this process allocates a lot of RAM (and it's still growing)". This will be a relatively short list. It will be much more simple for someone new to this to locate the culprit from this list than from the output of, say, htop which gives me about 5000 numbers but requires me to fold multi-threaded processes myself (I have 50 lines which say VIRT 2750M but only 16 GB of RAM - the machine ought to swap itself to death but of course, this is a misinterpretation of the data that can happen quickly).

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  • Can't install .NET framework 4.0 on Windows XP professional version 2002 SP3 (OS bug?)

    - by that guy
    .NET framework 4.0 install fails on Windows XP professional version 2002 SP3: I tried to run setup using "run as..." to make sure the admin rights are used ("protect my computer..." tick was deselected of course). I tried everything: installing using online/offline setup, windows update. install goes a little and then "rolls back" and says: Installation did not succeed .NET Framework 4 has not been installed because: Fatal error during installation. for more information about this problem, see the log file. the full log: http://pastebay.net/1433771 Any ideas? EDIT1: I have found this in the log: "BlockIf: You must install the 32-bit Windows Imaging Component (WIC) before you run Setup. Please visit the Microsoft Download Center to install WIC, and then rerun Setup...." So I found it, and launched "wic_x86_enu.exe" - but it said: WIC Setup error Newer version of update is already on the system. I have already installed: .NET framewrok 2.0 SP2 .NET framewrok 3.0 SP2 .NET framewrok 3.5 SP1 but I need 4.0 . EDIT2: another attempt and it's log. (this time better copy of log file): http://pastebin.com/gmGfbM9a (copy to notepad and save as .htm and open with internet browser). I have tried all the solutions I could find - and nothing helped. I have found something weird: when I formatted the hard drive and installed windows xp again - the .NET framework 4.0 installed ok, but when I plugged my 100Mbit internet cable - the operating system kind off "locked itself" and the bug returned - I could no longer install .NET framework 4.0 again. There was no reason for that to happen, for example I have windows server 2003 in local network, but I don't have active directory enabled on it or anything like that - the server just has some folders shared and thats all (all server's "features" are default). I had the second pc with the same problem - with XP on it too. This seems like the bug of Operating System to me. I couldn't find what was causing the problem. After many days I gave up: backuped everything, formatted HDD and installed Windows 7 professional 64bit. .NET framework 4.0 installed with no problem on it.

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  • Recovering damaged external hard disk by installing internally

    - by nfarshchi
    I had a 1TB Western Digital (My book series) 3.5" USB3. One day, the SATA to USB3 converter board was damaged and has not worked since. I decided to open the cover and use the HDD as an internal HDD. When I attached the HDD to my PC and booted up in Windows, it asked me which type of ????? I want to use "MBR or GBR" (I dont remember the exact question) I chose MBR and Windows gave me a 1TB empty Hard drive. I tried to recover with recover my files and some other recovery programs but no success. Some one told me that you should choosed GBR instead of MBR . How can I do that now? Another guy told me that the SATA to USB3 converter board is coded to save data on HDD and you can not use them internally without losing data, and I should find another SATA to USB3 board (exact same). It is impossible to find because they are not produced any more. Please help me to find a solution to bring back my data. UPDATE I have 1TB WD "Mybook" USB 3. the board that convert sata to usb3 was damaged. so when the HDD was in the box computer did not recognize it. I opened the box and remove HDD to use it internal. after connecting to my PC windows showed me one massage that I had two choice MBR or GPT I choosed MBR one and windows gave me 1TB empty new volume. I tried many recovery software to recover my data but no success. I brought it to one expert recovery company and they told me the converter board (SATA to USB3) make some encryption on data and with out that board you cannot recover any thing. so I bought another empty WD box and put the HDD inside but even after that also there is no file. I tried to recover again in this state but no success. so I have some unanswered question. does this converted boards make any password or encryption? if yes how can I solve it? does using many recovery programs affected my data? any suggestion or solution for bring back my data? I had use recovery programs such as : recover my files , EaseUS data recovery, easy recovery, test disk, Ontrack easy recovery . Note: when I was using test disk it asked me to choose which partition table I want to use. as it was I choose NTFS, does this made any change on data?

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  • TrueCrypt partition will no longer mount

    - by sparkyuiop
    I am hoping for some advice to help me out of my situation, with luck. I have a computer running Windows 7 Ultimate x64 with 3 hard disks installed. On my 2TB hard disk 2 (non-system disk) I have 4 partitions. One is for music, another for video, a downloads partition and a 500GB RAW Truecrypt encrypted partition / volume that I had setup to mount with 4 photographs used as keyfiles. The 4 photographs are located in my 'Documents' partition which is one of four partitions on my 1.5TB hard disk 1 (non-system disk) When I setup the disk encryption I did not (I'm 99% sure) create a password, I only used the 4 photograph keyfiles to mount the volume. Recently my 1TB hard disk 0 (system / boot) started to fail so I decided to replace it. I was going to clone the old disk to a new disk but decided that a fresh installation would be more beneficial. Once I had transferred all the required 'User Data' from my old hard disk 0 (C: disk) I discarded it. I reinstalled Truecrypt, pointed to the partition, selected my 4 keyfiles photographs and I mounted my encrypted volume with no issues. In fact I mounted it several times after re-installing Windows and after reboots. Now all of a sudden when I try and mount it I get the message "incorrect keyfile(s) and/or password or not a Truecrypt volume". Now I am not sure why this happened as I do not recall exactly what I did between last mounting the volume successfully and it not mounting. Here are some of the possible things I may have done to cause it to stop working but I am at a loss as to where to start to try and resolve the problem. 1. I had swapped the drive letters to a preferred order. 2. I possibly swapped the physical SATA connectors on the mainboard. 3. I enabled 'Hot Plugging' for the two non-system hard disk SATA ports and the DVD SATA port in the BIOS. I have tried changing the encrypted partition drive letter as suggested in another post but this does not help. On my old system the encrypted drive was drive "X". I have about tried it with all the other free drive letters but alas nothing changes. I do not recall what drive letter was allocated to the encrypted partition before I changed them all. I have not tried to change the letter back to what it possibly was to start with as I am happy with the current layout. I will try this is anyone thinks it would be worthwhile though. I do hope I have managed to convey my situation in an understandable manner and live in hope someone could help me recover years of personal files. Thank you very much for taking the time to read my post and for any suggestions you may offer. Regards Phillip Thorne (UK) Anyone???

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  • OEM sound card with no drivers or support

    - by randy
    I thought my sound card was going out so I bought a sound card online. Everything seemed to work ok, I do have sound. But after a few months, I noticed the extra software that downloaded with the sound card drivers didn't work. I ended up contacting creative and after a month of e-mail support, they asked for the serial number and/or model number. Their reply back was I had purchased an OEM sound card and they could not provide support for that, and informed me that that is why their drivers and software didn't work. They informed me that I had to contact the company that distributed the sound card and install their software. Is there anything I can do to find out who distributed this sound card, or is there anything I can do to get other features to work? I have 4 speakers and a sub but only 2 speakers produce sound. The only control I have is the volume. Creative's driver update program will find my sound card, download updates and even added software, but if I try to click on a downloaded program like Creative's Toolbox or Media Center, I get an error that it cannot find the devise. That is why I contacted creative in the first place. EDIT Thanks for the responses everyone. Here's an update. I thought I'd go thru my old computer stuff for my classes at school. I have a lot of old stuff saved, boxes and cables and stuff. I found the box the sound card came in. It looks like a box you'd buy at the store, like Best Buy or CompUSA. I worked with creative for such a long time, it went past the point of being able to return it to the junk online store this shipped from. The box did have an install CD, so I thought I'd start over to reinstall the drivers and software that shipped with the card. I noticed that the install would uninstall a program, then reinstall it. so I thought things were working out. But no good. Everything still works but the programs were still bad. I'd get an error trying to load them - not found. I'll look on the card the next time I get a chance and see if I can spot any kind of name on it.

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  • netbook intel GMA 3150 external monitor 1920x1080 flicker problem

    - by seyenne
    Dear all, i recently purchased a acer netbook (apsire one d260). It runs flawlessly. Yesterday I bought a samsung 23" TFT with a native resolution of 1920x1080. According to the information found in the internet and my local computer dealer, the intel chipset can handle the native resolution of the monitor. However, this is only partly the case. I use the VGA cabel to connect, the monitor instantly switches to the native resolution and now the problem: Occasionaly, especially the first 2 hours after booting up, I have a flickering all over the screen, sometimes the entire screen is shaking and spinning around like crazy. I figured out, that lowering the resolution avoids the flicker but this helps only for some time. I can rule out that it's the monitor's problem since I found no issues with another notebook. Right now, I have no problems with the netbook, for about 30 minutes I didn't experience any issues... But I don't know for how long, it occurs without warning :-) I'm worried that if I would bring the netbook back to the dealer and explain my problem, after testing it on an external screen in the local shop, everything works just fine... And I won't get helped with the problem because I can't prove it. (I'm currently in Thailand and over here, customer service is nothing like back home in Germany) What can I do? Is this a driver related issue? (I installed the latest GPU driver) Is it because of the VGA cable? (But why does it work sometimes without any problems and with no issues on the other notebook) I monitored the GPU/CPU temperature, nothing changes really over time..Can it simply be a faulty GPU and is a replacement justifiable? I'm really stressed now because for the time I'm writing, the flickering didn't occur...but for sure, soon or later it will happen again.. I Forgot to mention, the problem also happens if the netbook runs on battery, unplugged. So the only hardware that is plugged is the TFT screen. ...........and here it comes again, flickering has just begun. NEED HELP! Thank you all for reading through this and giving any suggestions if possible. Cheers

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  • windows 7 virtual wireless adapter keeps going to sleep

    - by conners
    Just a quick question that I can't see mentioned anywhere online. I have a Windows 7 box configured like these guys recommend http://www.itgeekdiary.com/windows-7-as-an-wi-fi-access-point/ simply so that I can have my Windows 7 box as a wifi access point or a wifi emitter. It's also called a Microsoft Virtual WiFi Miniport Adapter. But it powers off and shuts down automatically and stops working. Basically everything works as intended and then - well -it will stopped working when I am not at the Windows 7 PC for a long time. The problem seems to be that every time my PC goes to "power save / sleep" and in the morning the Windows 7 machine "wakes" but blooming heck the wifi has stopped and you have to power cycle the PC (which is very uncool). When I power Cycle I have to do the following as administrator C:\Windows\System32\netsh.exe wlan start hostednetwork I then tried a gazllion things involving services and power management and eventually discovered that if I run the following commands as administrator it will be ok (for a bit) but every 3rd ot 4th time I try this "trick" it simply fails. the trick that seems to work 3 out of 4 times (i.e. "most" of the time) C:\Windows\System32\netsh.exe wlan stop hostednetwork C:\Windows\System32\netsh.exe wlan start hostednetwork But why does this only work "some" of the time? What else I did by myself: on every manage adapter properties (that relates to the wifi) I right clicked [configure] [power management] /disabled/ "allow the computer to power off to save power" <- this made no difference Also (and this is a bit annoying) there is no system tray app/GUI for the Microsoft Virtual WiFi Miniport Adapter output signal ... none... so (lame as it sounds) the ONLY way I can check if it's on is to physically go to another device and SCAN.. lame so my question can probably be solved by any of the following: a) can I stop Windows 7 sleeping this wifi when the machine sleeps b) can I force Windows to force wake this process on wake? if so how? c) what is the service / process REALLY called and how do I restart it if it crashes d) how can I flush the wifi properly rather power cycle the host machine e) anyone have a link to an program or app that can sit in the system tray that shows windows 7 wifi hotspot emission status (on/off/etc etc) Since I am a programmer I can easily write a vbs script / windows exe to fix this (and I will share this solution) and the gui problem if I can work out the actual service that is running that netsh stops/starts

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