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  • Git version control with multiple users

    - by ignatius
    Hello, i am a little bit lost with this issue, let me explain you my problem: I want to setup a git repository, three of four users will contribute, so they need to download the code and shall be able to upload their changes to the server or update their branch with the latest modifications. So, i setup a linux machine, install git, setup the repository, then add the users in order to enable the acces throught ssh. Now my question is, What's next?, the git documentation is a little bit confusing, i.e. when i try from a dummy user account to clone the repository i got: xxx@xxx-desktop:~/Documentos/git/test$ git clone -v ssh://[email protected]/pub.git Initialized empty Git repository in /home/xxx/Documentos/git/test/pub/.git/ [email protected]'s password: fatal: '/pub.git' does not appear to be a git repository fatal: The remote end hung up unexpectedly is that a problem of privileges? need any special configuration? i want to avoid using git-daemon or gitosis, sorry, maybe my question sound silly but git is powerfull but i admit not so user friendly. Thanks Br

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  • New monitor connected to HDMI adaptor doesn't show output after booting

    - by Paul
    Hello out there in the multiple monitors’ world. I am a very old newbie in your world and need help. I just purchased a new Asus VH236H monitor and hooked it up the HDMI port of an ATI Radeon HD4300 / 4500 Series display adaptor. I left the old Princeton LCD19 (TMDS) hooked up to the DVI port of the same display adaptor. Both monitors displayed the boot sequence, after I fired good old Sarastro2 (Asus P5Q Pro Turbo – Dual Core E5300 – 2.60 GHz) up. The Asus lacked one half of a second behind the Princeton until the Windows 7 Ultimate SP 1 boot up was complete. Then the Asus displayed “HDMI NO SIGNAL” and went into hibernation. The Princeton stayed lit up as before. Both monitors are displayed on the “Screen Resolution Setup Display” and I plaid around with them for a while. The only thing I accomplished was to shove the desktop icons from the Princeton to the still hibernating Asus. The “Multiple displays:” is set to “Extend these displays”, the Orientation is “Landscape” and the Resolutions are set on both to the “recommended” one. Both monitors show that they work properly in the advanced Properties display. What am I doing wrong, what am I missing? Never mind the opinions about the different resolutions of the two monitors. I always can unhook the Princeton and give it to a Goodwill Store if I do not like the setup. I just would like to make it work. Any constructive help is very much appreciated, Thank you.

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  • How to temporarily stop web pages intercepting a right-click?

    - by callum
    Some websites like Google Drive intercept right-clicks and provide their own context menu. This is usually what I want, but sometimes I still want to do a normal, native browser right-click. Is there any modifier key or something like that to make it so a right-click doesn't trigger a click event on the web page, so it can't show it's context menu? I want to do this per-click, not by changing a setting somewhere. If there are different techniques depending on browser/OS, please list them.

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  • Network Traffic Log

    - by Chris Becke
    Background - On my "home" network I have a Linksys WTR45GL router providing my internet access as well as a wireless AP. Connected I have * 2 Windows PCs (wired) * At least one laptop (Wired) * Some 802.11 enabled handheld consoles (PSPs) * A Nintendo Wii * Some windows XP pcs used by the people in the granny flat. Where I live, South Africa, well, 1Gb worth of monthly cap is, while not expensive, costly enough that I'd like to be sure that all the bandwidth used by devices on my network is ... well ... legitimate and not the result of neighbors parasiting my wireless, malware or just the result of "liberal" download policies in my software. I got the Linksys WRT45GL on the understanding that there were custom firmwares (DD-WRT and Tomato) that allowed bandwidth tracking, but there doesn't seem to be any facility to get a log of traffic that can be examined to see (a) which local devices were the biggest consumers of bandwidth and (b) what they were connected to. What tools are there for logging traffic such that, when it gets to that OMG moment in the month when all my bandwidth is gone, I have a chance to find out what the hell used it all up (and hopefully attempt some corrective action).

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  • How to tackle dell support system? [closed]

    - by Nishant Kumar
    We have purchased a Dell Optiplex 9010 SSFV for our organization's work. Since the first installation two of the USB keyboard keys were not working properly. I had to press those keys two times simultaneously, on first time keys did not work and for for second time it printed two characters (as it were buffering first character.) Two keys that were not working properly: Hexangrave (Below the ESC key: `) Double Quotes (Left the enter key ") We registered our complaint with DELL and they suggested (with some hard to understand and weird ENGLISH accent) some test and tricks, such as switching to different ports, checking keyboard on different PC, and it worked well with diff. PC(with Windows 7 Home Premium installed). It was clear that it is an OS fault, hence they suggested to re-install OS. Problem began here, we have a project on the run and currently a video editing project setup on our system, so can't re-install system in hurry and also DELL persons were not providing any other solution such as updating keyboard driver, etc. Arguments I am a Software Engg. and don't think it is a feasible solution to re-install entire system for simple problems. This prob is coming since the fresh system installation, so I don't think it will solve the problem. Finally, I had to find solution myself and got it here, now I want to show my disappointment to dell persons or at least tell them that they should improve there support system to not advice to re-install entire system for that simple problems. Notes We have purchased 5 years NEXT business day support from DELL for around 8000 INR (Not for that kind of solutions from DELL). So can anyone tell me how to tackle dell support system officially, so that they will pay more attention in near future. Thanks

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  • Enable/Disable a network adapter with a keyboard shortcut

    - by Carlos
    I started out trying to use a shortcut to display the Local Area Connection Status window on my desktop by creating a shortcut and assigning it Ctrl+, (comma). Windows didn't like that, so it added Alt, which ended up being Ctrl+Alt++,. Since I couldn't figure out a way to eliminate Alt as part of the shortcut keys, I am now trying a different strategy and it's not working. My latest attempt is to use AutoHotkey with the following command: ^,::Run, explorer ::{BA126ADB-2166-11D1-B1D0-00805FC1270E} Which is what the shortcut target number is, but it won't open the window.

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  • How do I remove initial indents on numbered lists?

    - by Peter
    In Word 2007 I want all numbers in a numbered list to be down the LH margin in line with the paragraphs. When a numbered list is selected, the numbers 1,2,3 are indented by a default 0.63cm. Ctrl-Shift-M will shift this indent back to the left margin. How do I permanently remove that initial indent and save that change to the normal template so that all new documents have zero indent on a newly inserted numbered list? (Same issue in Word 2010)

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  • How to disable auto insert notification in Windows 7?

    - by White Phoenix
    Alright, here's the problem. My hard drive activity light on my custom built PC is blinking exactly once every second. Microsoft has this to say on the issue: http://support.microsoft.com/kb/138598 There has been discussion on this issue several months ago: Why does my hard drive LED light blink every second? The problem seems to stem from primarily Windows 7 polling the CD-ROM/DVD drive every second to see if something is inserted. The Windows 7 users in the thread that was linked in the superuser question, https://social.technet.microsoft.com/Forums/fi-FI/w7itprohardware/thread/4f6f63b3-4b58-4154-9298-1566100f9d00, have confirmed that this IS a known issue with Windows 7. Some people point at the motherboard circuitry causing the CD-ROM and SATA activity to both be linked to that hard drive activity, but whatever the case, the temporary solution seems to be to disable the CD/DVD-ROM drive in Device Manager. In fact, disabling the CD/DVD-ROM does stop the blinking, but of course this solution is counterproductive, because I shouldn't have to entirely disable a device to fix this problem. I've done the following suggestions in that thread: Change the autorun registry entry to 0 Completely disable autoplay in the autoplay control panel Disable autoplay in the Local Group Policy Editor. None of these stop the blinking from happening - apparently these solutions work for both XP and Vista, but it seems to be different in Windows 7. So I'm wondering if anyone has found out how to completely disable the polling in Windows 7, or if this will just have to be an issue we will have to deal with. There's no option to disable the auto insert notification when you go to the device within device manager (there was in XP), so I got no idea where this option is hidden, or if there's a registry key entry I could change to stop the polling. Anyone have any idea?

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  • Microsoft Excel 2010

    - by Bruce
    I've one "master" sheet in the Excel 2010 file with all my outstanding orders detail and also reflecting how many days the orders have been outstanding. I've 4 other sheets, I'd like to extract the orders from the "master" sheet to to each of these sheets grouping them into these criteria. The 4 sheets need to reflect as follows <60 Days 60 Days <90 Days 90 Days <120 Days 120 Days Can someone assist?

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  • Hard drive failed, suspected filesystem corruption, still cannot salvage any data from harddrive

    - by Hippy-Head
    Firstly, I am terribly sorry if this is a duplicate, but I couldn't find a similar issue to mine, so here goes. I have a 1TB hdd bought around 8 months ago used as backup hard drive. I have not used the drive for a period of time whatsoever, and when I was trying to get back to some files on it, it was completely wiped just like that. At first it would not boot I tried everything from command line chkdsk and filesystem recovery software to rebuilt it. After a few attempts I managed to initialize it, at that time it was an achievement. The problems started when I tried to recover the data inside, I have used A LOT of software free and commercial software on both Mac and Windows, with the help of cmd or Terminal commands, however no data of any kind was recovered, even after leaving it thoroughly scan for around 9-10 hours all night sometimes longer, with no results at all. I am somewhat desperate, I am usually good at retrieving data from corrupt hard drives, but this is not the case. Call me paranoid, but I do not want to give it to someone to fix it for me, as I have a lot of photos and personal stuff that I do not want anyone to see.

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  • How to sniff for wireless MAC addresses in area - My laptop got stolen

    - by Mr AJL
    A few days ago my apartment got broken in, and they took all the electronics, including my $1500 laptop. We are pretty sure it's an inside job (as in someone from the same building), so I believe that the stuff is in someones apartment. Is there any tool that tells you what wireless adapters are active within range? I have my laptops MAC address, so I could use that to find out who stole it. I think it's worth a shot. Any help is appreciated thanks!

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  • Linux Mint 14 severe overheating

    - by agvares
    I've tried switching to Mint (it was Mint 12) about 6 months ago, but failed to do it due to enormous overheating which made it virtually impossible to run any applications more complex than Gedit. Time had passed, and now I'm back again with Mint 14, but feeling way more determined. What I face are the following issues: 1) Great overheating (and by great I mean that just by doing nothing my CPU temp is floating around 70-75 C, which I find a lot) 2) Running multiple applications (let's say Chrome, Skype and Pidgin) results in critical overheating and immediate shutdown of the system 3) Due to the stuff listed above, my battery drains in about 10-15 minutes, pretty much turning my laptop into a crippled desktop machine I've got a HP-dv6 laptop (i7, 6gb RAM, dual graphics) Here's the output of lspci: 00:00.0 Host bridge: Intel Corporation 2nd Generation Core Processor Family DRAM Controller (rev 09) 00:01.0 PCI bridge: Intel Corporation Xeon E3-1200/2nd Generation Core Processor Family PCI Express Root Port (rev 09) 00:02.0 VGA compatible controller: Intel Corporation 2nd Generation Core Processor Family Integrated Graphics Controller (rev 09) 00:16.0 Communication controller: Intel Corporation 6 Series/C200 Series Chipset Family MEI Controller #1 (rev 04) 00:1a.0 USB controller: Intel Corporation 6 Series/C200 Series Chipset Family USB Enhanced Host Controller #2 (rev 05) 00:1b.0 Audio device: Intel Corporation 6 Series/C200 Series Chipset Family High Definition Audio Controller (rev 05) 00:1c.0 PCI bridge: Intel Corporation 6 Series/C200 Series Chipset Family PCI Express Root Port 1 (rev b5) 00:1c.1 PCI bridge: Intel Corporation 6 Series/C200 Series Chipset Family PCI Express Root Port 2 (rev b5) 00:1c.2 PCI bridge: Intel Corporation 6 Series/C200 Series Chipset Family PCI Express Root Port 3 (rev b5) 00:1c.3 PCI bridge: Intel Corporation 6 Series/C200 Series Chipset Family PCI Express Root Port 4 (rev b5) 00:1d.0 USB controller: Intel Corporation 6 Series/C200 Series Chipset Family USB Enhanced Host Controller #1 (rev 05) 00:1f.0 ISA bridge: Intel Corporation HM65 Express Chipset Family LPC Controller (rev 05) 00:1f.2 SATA controller: Intel Corporation 6 Series/C200 Series Chipset Family 6 port SATA AHCI Controller (rev 05) 00:1f.3 SMBus: Intel Corporation 6 Series/C200 Series Chipset Family SMBus Controller (rev 05) 01:00.0 VGA compatible controller: Advanced Micro Devices [AMD] nee ATI Whistler XT [AMD Radeon HD 6700M Series] 07:00.0 Ethernet controller: Realtek Semiconductor Co., Ltd. RTL8111/8168B PCI Express Gigabit Ethernet controller (rev 06) 0d:00.0 Network controller: Broadcom Corporation BCM4313 802.11b/g/n Wireless LAN Controller (rev 01) 13:00.0 Unassigned class [ff00]: Realtek Semiconductor Co., Ltd. RTS5209 PCI Express Card Reader (rev 01) 19:00.0 USB controller: NEC Corporation uPD720200 USB 3.0 Host Controller (rev 04) what i've tried to do already: 1) I've edited my grub file to add some "splash" arguments there 2) Installed jupiter and powertop 3) Tried to upgrade to newer kernels (up to 3.8), btw running anything newer than 3.5 results in both resolution and wi-fi detection fail 4) Read lots of forum threads devoted to the topic So, my question is simple: What else might I do to become finally able to use Mint as my default OS without the risk of being burned alive by the CPU heat?

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  • VPN - force a selective range of ip to run on VPN (linux)

    - by Francesco
    Preface: I know there are similar question here and there however I'm a kind of newbie on Net stuff so I need an answer on this specific scenario, hoping that can help others too as it is a common problem Let say I cannot do anything on the local switch to change the local ip range, I don't want to use any complicate trick as use VMachine to hide the local ip range but I want to use net tools to solve the issue. Scenario my local net assign me an IP of this class 192.168.1.xxx (ex. 192.168.1.116) and my VPN (VPNC) assign me IP of same class 192.168.1.xxx (ex. 192.168.1.247) Obviously I need VPN to access local address (ex. 192.168.1.100) but when I open any address of the class 192.168.1.xx the route point to my local net and not to the VPN ones. I'm on linux and i'd like gui solution (network manager) in case it is not possible let play with route command. here what network manager offer me: Here my actual route once connected to the VPN: Here some route information (route -n) Destination Gateway Genmask Flags Metric Ref Use Iface 0.0.0.0 0.0.0.0 0.0.0.0 U 0 0 0 ppp0 169.254.0.0 0.0.0.0 255.255.0.0 U 1000 0 0 wlan0 182.71.21.106 192.168.1.1 255.255.255.255 UGH 0 0 0 wlan0 182.71.21.106 192.168.1.1 255.255.255.255 UGH 0 0 0 wlan0 192.168.1.0 0.0.0.0 255.255.255.0 U 9 0 0 wlan0 192.168.1.246 0.0.0.0 255.255.255.255 UH 0 0 0 ppp0 Here my ifconfig : ppp0 Link encap:Point-to-Point Protocol inet addr:192.168.1.247 P-t-P:192.168.1.246 Mask:255.255.255.255 UP POINTOPOINT RUNNING NOARP MULTICAST MTU:1400 Metric:1 RX packets:3415 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 frame:0 TX packets:2525 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 carrier:0 collisions:0 txqueuelen:3 RX bytes:3682328 (3.6 MB) TX bytes:402315 (402.3 KB) wlan0 Link encap:Ethernet HWaddr 4c:eb:42:06:a3:a6 inet addr:192.168.1.116 Bcast:192.168.1.255 Mask:255.255.255.0 inet6 addr: fe80::4eeb:42ff:fe06:a3a6/64 Scope:Link UP BROADCAST RUNNING MULTICAST MTU:1500 Metric:1 RX packets:72598 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 frame:0 TX packets:42300 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 carrier:0 collisions:0 txqueuelen:1000 RX bytes:76000532 (76.0 MB) TX bytes:13919400 (13.9 MB) The Question So basically I would like to add a rule to force this particular address (192.168.1.100) on the VPN and not on my local net

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  • Disaster After Removing Two HDD From LaCie RAID 0 Case

    - by John
    This is the second time this has happened. I own a LaCie IDE RAID 0 Enclosure and the RAID went bad. The system gave me a warning that the data could be read from the RAID but that nothing could be written, and to remove the data ASAP. I did that and erased and reinitialized the RAID. System reported it was fine, no issues. I wrote to the RAID again and the system reported the same issue. So, I removed the drives and tested them individually thinking one must have gone bad. Sure enough, one HDD reported all bad blocks, every single one after the Master Boot Record. I didn't think much about it because of the age of the drives, 5 years old. So, I bought two new drives plugged them in and started up the RAID again. Exactly the same thing happened. All was fine after initializing the RAID and then the next day after powering on the RAID the exact same issue. The HDD sitting in the same position as the first "bad" HDD reported all bad blocks. Obviously, this is an issue with LaCie's bridge board not with the drives. No utility I have used has been able to bring this HDD back to life. I thought I would just copy the MBR from the good drive to the new one using a sector editor but am hesitant. Is it possible the firmware on the HDD has been corrupted by the LaCie bridge board?? What else could be the cause of such an issue? How can I fix this drive?

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  • How to analyze CBS.log file by SFC command to detect corrupt files in Windows 7?

    - by energydream2007
    Hey I have some problems with my Win7 so I've ran sfc /scannow and I got this message: "Windows Resource Protection found corrupt files and was unable to fix some of them..." I also told to look at the folder of the log file to find the cbs.log. After that I've ran this command to pull out the actual problems/corrupt files: findstr /c:"[SR]" %windir%\Logs\CBS\CBS.log >"%userprofile%\Desktop\sfcdetails.txt" This command have created an sfcdetails text file (download). Can someone help me to analyze this file? I haven't found a detailed article about it so far.

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  • Cliq Wireless questions

    - by Nathan Adams
    Heres the deal: I am by no means a Linux expert, even less when it comes to the Android OS but lets see if we can't solve this problem. The problem I am having is that on the Cliq we have a broadcom chip. In order to use the wireless card you must first insert the module into the kernel. Fine: # insmod /system/lib/dhd.ko insmod /system/lib/dhd.ko # lsmod lsmod dhd 164936 0 - Live 0xbf000000 # BUT netcfg (or ifconfig in busybox) does not recognize that there is a wireless adapter there: # netcfg netcfg lo UP 127.0.0.1 255.0.0.0 0x00000049 dummy0 DOWN 0.0.0.0 0.0.0.0 0x00000082 rmnet0 UP 14.67.164.2 255.255.255.252 0x00001043 rmnet1 DOWN 0.0.0.0 0.0.0.0 0x00001002 rmnet2 DOWN 0.0.0.0 0.0.0.0 0x00001002 usb0 DOWN 0.0.0.0 0.0.0.0 0x00001002 # busybox ifconfig busybox ifconfig lo Link encap:Local Loopback inet addr:127.0.0.1 Mask:255.0.0.0 UP LOOPBACK RUNNING MTU:16436 Metric:1 RX packets:282 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 frame:0 TX packets:282 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 carrier:0 collisions:0 txqueuelen:0 RX bytes:18754 (18.3 KiB) TX bytes:18754 (18.3 KiB) rmnet0 Link encap:Ethernet HWaddr EE:83:E8:B4:4A:ED inet addr:14.x.x.x Bcast:14.67.164.3 Mask:255.255.255.252 UP BROADCAST RUNNING MULTICAST MTU:1500 Metric:1 RX packets:7148 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 frame:0 TX packets:7659 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 carrier:0 collisions:0 txqueuelen:1000 RX bytes:2609236 (2.4 MiB) TX bytes:908575 (887.2 KiB) # For giggles if we attempt to launch wpa_supplicant anyways we get this: # wpa_supplicant -Dwext -ieth0 -c/data/misc/wifi/wpa_supplicant.conf wpa_supplicant -Dwext -ieth0 -c/data/misc/wifi/wpa_supplicant.conf ioctl[SIOCSIWPMKSA]: No such device ioctl[SIOCSIWMODE]: No such device Could not configure driver to use managed mode ioctl[SIOCGIFFLAGS]: No such device Could not set interface 'eth0' UP ioctl[SIOCGIWRANGE]: No such device ioctl[SIOCGIFINDEX]: No such device CTRL-EVENT-STATE-CHANGE id=-1 state=0 ioctl[SIOCSIWENCODEEXT]: No such device ioctl[SIOCSIWENCODE]: No such device ioctl[SIOCSIWENCODEEXT]: No such device ioctl[SIOCSIWENCODE]: No such device ioctl[SIOCSIWENCODEEXT]: No such device ioctl[SIOCSIWENCODE]: No such device ioctl[SIOCSIWENCODEEXT]: No such device ioctl[SIOCSIWENCODE]: No such device ioctl[SIOCSIWAUTH]: No such device WEXT auth param 7 value 0x0 - Failed to disable WPA in the driver. ioctl[SIOCSIWAUTH]: No such device WEXT auth param 5 value 0x0 - ioctl[SIOCSIWAUTH]: No such device WEXT auth param 4 value 0x0 - ioctl[SIOCSIWAP]: No such device ioctl[SIOCGIFFLAGS]: No such device # In dmesg we get: <4>[18300.494065] dhd_oob_enable_intr : enable <4>[18305.019976] dhd_net_start failed bus is not ready <4>[18305.020278] dhdsdio_probe: dhd_net_start failed! Do I need to specify the firmware with insmod? Why are we trying to control the interface manually instead of through the Android API? The Android API doesn't support ad-hoc connections as far as I can tell. The card, I am sure, most certainly can.

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  • Why did numbered list stop working after I hit Enter?

    - by Michael Leach
    I have a numbered list like: 1.0 Excel 2010 1.1 Introduction to Excel 2010 1.1.A. A general overview of Excel 2010, geared towards beginners 1.1.B. There are 3 videos in this series I put the cursor at the end of the last line on 1.1.B and hit Enter. The next line should begin with 1.1.C but nothing appears when the cursor returns to the next line. Another example, if I put the cursor at the end of 1.1.A and hit enter, I should get a new 1.1.B and the original 1.1.B should be renamed to 1.1.C. After hitting enter, a new 1.1.B doesn't appear and the previous 1.1.B drops all the way to the next page. So the next bullet number that should come up doesn't come up. I tried Microsoft Fix It to reset the Registry and that didn't work either. This is very frustrating. Does anybody know how to fix this?

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  • Security Essentials not installing and I suspect my machine is infected with malware

    - by Jim
    My mouse seems to be automatically right-clicking every few seconds, and sometimes constantly. My cursor will abruptly become an hourglass for a moment every once in a while, as well. It happens in spurts, as in it hasn't happened for about 10 minutes, but the preceding 20 before that it was happening constantly. I suspect that my machine is infected with malware of some sort, so I've tried installing Microsoft Security Essentials, but it presents the following error upon installation failure: My questions are: How can I solve the MSE installation issue and run a scan? Are there any indications that malware isn't actually my issue? Is MSE my best way to go about solving my issue, assuming that malware actually is the problem? Many thanks!

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  • running chkdsk on a disk without a drive letter

    - by neubert
    I have a hard drive that shows up in Disk Management as having two partitions. One of the partitions says 69.71GB and that's it. The other says 4.82GB and, underneath that, Healthy (OEM Partition). I'm trying to do chkdsk on the 69.71GB partition and am unsure of how to do it without a drive letter. Any ideas? It's an NTFS partition that's gotten corrupted. Linux's ntfsfix spits out a bunch of errors so I'm thinking chkdsk might be better. Thanks

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  • Install Windows 7 x64 from a separate partition on same hard drive (no DVD/USB)?

    - by Fraser
    I'm currently running Windows XP 32-bit, and want to install Windows 7 64-bit. However, my DVD drive is broken, and the only USB sticks I have lying around are USB 1.1 only (SLOW!). So I tried (as suggested would work for a USB stick by several online guides): Created new primary partition (formatted NTFS) Set that partition as active Copied contents of Win7 x64 ISO Downloaded the 32-bit bootsect.exe Ran bootsect /nt60 F: However, when I boot into the new partition, I only see a blinking cursor on a blank screen; nothing happens. Any ideas?

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  • Why does my Internet slow to a crawl unless I reboot my router every few days?

    - by Lord Torgamus
    A few weeks ago, I noticed that my Internet connection had slowed down to a crawl. I waited a few days hoping it would go away on its own, but it didn't get better. So I asked this question about how to make it faster. The problem went away after I updated to the latest firmware, so I didn't follow up too carefully. But every few days since then, my Internet has slowed down again. Unlike before, all I have to do to fix it is open the router administration page and press the "Reboot" button. Nothing else seems to work, though I'm sure there are options I haven't tried. If it makes a difference, my girlfriend and I both transfer large amounts of data fairly routinely for school (videoconferencing, downloading entire recorded lectures). The router is a Cisco/Linksys 160N V3 that's about a year old. Most of the time, it deals with just two standard Windows 7 laptops. The only thing I came across while searching for answers/dupes was this question, which seems similar superficially, but probably doesn't have the same root issue. Anyways, it's not resolved. What could be causing these slowdowns, and how can I get rid of them?

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  • How can I get Gmail Chat to run in background on my iPhone?

    - by zkidd
    For my iPhone, is there anyway to have gmail chat ping me, when a new chat occurs, and I am on another app? Unlike Android or Blackberry, I am amazed that I have yet not found anything that works well on the iphone for chatting with friends. Am I missing something here? Or is this just one of the greatest overlooked features that my iPhone does not have. And any solution offered can be either from the app store or cydia. Thanks.

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