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• core temperature vs CPU temperature

  - by Karl Nicoll

  I have recently installed a new heat sink & fan combination on my Core 2 Quad since my CPU was hitting about 70C under load. This has managed reduce temperatures while running Prime95 to about 54C, which I'm taking as a win (this is ~30 minutes after fitting). I'm a little confused though. The temperature readings given above are for CORE temperatures, but HWMonitor is showing a 5th "CPU" temperature (4 temperatures being the individual core temps) which is showing 21C idle, when idle temperatures for the cores vary between 37C and 42C. I guess there are two questions here: Are my CPU/Core temperatures decent, and is it safe to overclock when these are stock clock temperatures? I gather that the maximum safe operating temperature for a C2Q is ~70C, so which temperature should I measure against, the core temperatures (which are higher), or the CPU temperature reading?

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• Email etiquette checker?

  - by Benjamin Oakes

  Sometimes, in the heat of getting a lot of things done, I don't read emails I send as closely as I should. Is there an automated way to pop up warnings before a potentially-unpolite email is sent? I'm thinking about something that would say "wait, why don't you have a 'please' or 'would you' in that message?" I'm using Thunderbird 2 on Ubuntu 9.04. I may be willing to switch email clients if another program offers this. Thanks for your help!

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• Could we build a mega-processor out of superconductors?

  - by Carson Myers

  A superconductor, once cooled below a critical temperature, loses all of its electrical resistance and therefore becomes 100% efficient. This means that when a current flows through a superconductor, none of the energy is lost to heat or light. Theoretically, could we build a processor out of superconductive materials, that could effectively run at, oh I don't know, say, 300ghz? or 5,000ghz? Since a superconductive circuit is 100% efficient, this means that once supplied with electricity, the source of power could be completely removed from the circuit and the current would continue to flow forever. So if we made all the components inside a computer out of superconductive materials, could we get away with only supplying power to the peripherals and save a-whole-lot on energy, while dramatically increasing computing speed? Might this be one of the next big breakthroughs in computing? What do you think?

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• Semi-random clicking sound from Macbook Pro

  - by Justin Love

  There is an occasional click sound coming from my Macbook Pro (17", 2.2 Ghz Core 2 Duo) I upgraded to Snow Leopard recently, but the computer was also in for service about week before that, so I can't be certain the OS upgrade is related. The sound has no set interval and frequency varies from rare to every few seconds. I can alleviate the sound by turning up the fan speed with smcFanControl. Turning the right fan up about half way seems to be sufficient. Unfortunately, turning up the left fan also causes the right to turn on, because the sound seems to be slightly more to the left. The cause seems to be either a fan or heat-related.

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• What is the best position for power unit?

  - by guest86

  I would like to buy new computer case. Last time I bought a computer was in 2008 and many things have changed up to day. Many new computer cases have power unit placed down, on bottom. I'm thinking about buying some of those cases, but i'm not sure about something - if power unit is placed on the bottom it can't take away hot air from the case and pump it out right? All my PC parts are silent - CPU (E8200, placed below 12cm Nochtua fan of power unit) has heat-pipe cooler with Nochtua fan spinning at only 800rpms, GPU has cooler powered by 7V instead 12 and that's why i don't want to HAVE TO place another fan to pump out hot air instead of PU placed on top. That might make some noise. So i ask someone more experienced: if i buy some computer case with PU placed down, do i HAVE TO place some fan to pump out hot air?

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• Acer aspire 5520 power light blinks no boot

  - by Shawn Mclean

  My laptop was working fine last night, I hibernated it and went to sleep. Got up, pressed the power button. The power light comes on for 4 seconds and the hdd light blinked a few times, then it turned off for a second then repeats the process. The only way to stop this process/power down is to remove the AC and take out the battery. It does not even reach a boot screen, nothing shows up on the screen, fan does not start. People on this forum has the same problem but they suggest to put the laptop in a oven and heat it (reflow). What could be the problem? Is there another solution other than a reflow? I dont feel like putting my motherboard in the oven.

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• PSU Suggestions for SLI EVGA GTX 680 + i7

  - by JMH

  So i am putting together a new machine and am trying to determine the best PSU to go with for this setup. Here is the build i am thinking about Processor Intel Core i7-3770K Ivy Bridge 3.5GHz Motherboard ASRock Z77 Professional Graphics Card (2 SLI) EVGA 02G-P4-2680-KR Sound Card HT | OMEGA eClaro 7.1 Fan/Heat Sync ZALMAN CNPS9500A-LED Case COOLER MASTER HAF X RC-942-KKN1 RAM G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) SSD Of some Sort So my guess is that i need a 750 -1000W PSU, but which brand.... how much, etc --- really in the woods. Thanks -Josh

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• Does liquid cooling mean I no longer need to dust my machine?

  - by Starkers

  I've got two long haired cats, a dog and I live with a smoker. I use my computer pretty much all day everday, and though I put it to sleep in the night, those fans are constantly going during the day. In just 6 months the rear fans have so much hair wrapped around them it looks more like something from a vacuum cleaner rather than electronic equipment! Due to this, I'm interested in liquid cooling. However, it appears that liquid cooled systems have fans and liquid cooling? Are those just hybrid solutions? They wouldn't really help my situation. There does appear to be fanless systems that use a radiator to dissipate heat. If I implemented one of these could I seal up the vents on my PC and never have to dust it again? Is there a disadvantage to fanless liquid cooling? I don't need to overclock at the moment but I ever want to push my components will fanless liquid cooling be pretty rubbish?

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• Can I put a laptop Core i7 CPU in a desktop?

  - by Weezy

  One of the most important thing to me for a CPU is a good mix between speed and heat. For example five years ago I bought a Core 2 Duo 6300 (max TDP 65W): I put a big heatsink on the CPU, no fans (I do hate moving parts and noise) and it worked like a charm and very silently for five years (and it still work but five years later I wouldn't mind a faster CPU and a faster memory controller and more memory). I consider a max TDP of 130W unacceptable (like some high-end Core i7 have), for several reasons. So I was wondering: can I build a desktop and put a Core i7 CPU meant to be used in laptop in it? For example I was thinking about the Core i7 740QM (max TDP 45W [!]). Are these compatible with desktop Core i7 motherboards? (for example on NewEgg it says that the "CPU socket type" for the Core i7 740QM is PGA988, I've not too sure about what this is)

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• Cooling a large laptop

  - by sazabi02

  I've had my first laptop early this year and I haven't the slightest idea how to make it cooler. No real problems when I don't use graphics intensive games but when I play games like Dragon Age the temps rise up from 55 to 85. I'm concerned as a friend tells me that HP laptops aren't reputed to last long when it comes to heat. BTW, I've already bought a cooling pad with 3 fans and it didn't do much that elevating it and pointing an electric fan at it didn't do before. Additionally, this is a 17 inch HP dv7-3085dx entertainment notebook that i'm using.

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• is it worth defragging an iPod

  - by alimack

  Essentially my 5G iPod was cutting tracks off and generally misbehaving. So I did the following: 1) Use Diskwarrior - heavy directory fragmentation which it fixed; 2) Use iDefrag - some fragmentation but it kept halting as it couldn't move files; 3) Try to write out drive with Disk Utility - got a warning from DU so gave up before I started; 4) Completely restored using iTunes; 5) Reran Diskwarrior - still heavy directory fragmentation; 6) Reran iDefrag, still fragmentation although limited to two bands; The iPod is much quicker to traverse menus and no more track skipping. My question is this - is defragging worth it or does the heat generated by the process kill the drive and make it a self-defeating process. Anyone have any metrics/ figures? Clearly it's a bad idea for solid state drives like the nano & touch.

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• How do I clean a computer from dust?

  - by Jonas

  As computers become faster and generate more heat it gets more important to have good ventilation, but that also increases the amount of dust sticking to the components of the computer. It's of course better to make sure the computer never gets dusty by vacuum cleaning around it (not in it) frequently. But what to do if it's already to late? I've heard that vacuum cleaning the computer itself is very bad, since it can cause static electricity that hurts the computer. So, Does anyone have any tips for how to remove dust from your computer?

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• Where can I get a metal mug to fit my USB mug warmer?

  - by tjrobinson

  I got one of these for Christmas (this exact model): But it doesn't work very well with normal ceramic mugs as they're too thick and insulated. What I really want is a mug like this that fits well and transmits the heat from the warmer to my drink (so no air gaps or thick bases): Where can I get a mug like the one pictured above from? I like in the UK but don't mind ordering from overseas. Update: I've tried camping mugs but they all seem to be too wide. I will measure the base later and post exact dimensions. I am really after the exact mug shown in the picture, it must exist somewhere?

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• Gateway MX6440 CPU Upgrade

  - by BPugh

  I have received an a Gateway MX6440 laptop as a freebie, but I'm interested in upgrading its AMD Turion 64 ML-32 (socket 754) to something faster (and more cache). I know the range of processors that could work based on the family list in Wikipedia. However, this computer has the stock bios, and any updates I haven't applied from Gateway doesn't specify processor support. I'm looking to go to at least a 2.2 (ML-40). Has anybody upgraded the processor in this model or other in the series success or failure and do you happen to have any guides handy for working with the heat sink? Any Googling I have done keeps hitting RAM marketers. Update Computer died before I had a chance to try this out.

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• Computer randomly shuts down with a fading alarm power button and CD drive

  - by Shad

  I am currently experiencing something very very odd. Having build my PC myself, I have never had any issues (or anything heat related). A few moments ago my computer shut down very randomly and everything goes blank, when I looked down on my case's power button it was fading on and off in such way I've had never seen before. I noticed the CD drive all of a sudden also started blinking randomly. What do you guys think this problem is related to? It is definitely not a overheating issue and I am pretty sure my 600 watt power supply didn't blow because right now I am able to turn it on and boot up the PC but 20 seconds later it shuts down (sometimes doesn't shut down for 2 minutes). I have no idea what this is... My specs are (built by myself): i5 3570k (unoverclocked) GTX 560ti Asrock Z77 Pro4-M motherboard 8GB Vengeance RAM 600W Corsair power supply 500GB of Seagate HD Case: Corsair Carbide 300R

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• bad ram or bad motherboard

  - by user39508

  I have a computer which crashes after about 5-45 seconds of operation. It can run memtest86+, and it doesn't display any errors, but it doesn't prevent it from crashing within the time frame listed above. The heat sink appears to be installed correctly, and I don't think it is related to overheating. The motherboard is connected to the ram and a monitor, nothing else is installed. The processor is an atom 330, running memtest86+ 4.0. Any insight into if the ram is bad or if it is the motherboard/psu/cpu? Thanks!

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• How do I clean dust from a computer?

  - by Jonas

  As computers become faster and generate more heat it gets more important to have good ventilation, but that also increases the amount of dust sticking to the components of the computer. It's of course better to make sure the computer never gets dusty by vacuum cleaning around it (not in it) frequently. But what to do if it's already to late? I've heard that vacuum cleaning the computer itself is very bad, since it can cause static electricity that hurts the computer. So, Does anyone have any tips for how to remove dust from your computer?

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• Why is a single thread spread across CPU's?

  - by Marcus Lindblom

  I'm just curious why the scheduler constantly moves an app between CPUs, rather than keeping it on one. It looks a bit silly to have 4 cores at 25% rather than one at 100%. Does it has to do with heat, or is it more efficient somehow? Do other OS's do it differently? Insights or links to in-depth stuff would be nice. (Couldn't find much myself.) Update: By "spread out" I don't mean that it executes on several cpu's at once, but is being moved from one to the other several times per second, making the effect that it looks spread out.

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• PC reboots spontaenously: debugging tips

  - by aaron

  I swapped my core 2 duo for a quad core recently, and generally things run fine, but every now and then my computer just restarts. I don't even get a blue screen (Vista 32). Core temp isn't a problem. My thinking is that my power supply is inadequate, but I haven't been able to test that (one idea was to under clock the cpu to see if that helped, but going up in speed was the only simple thing to do in the BIOS) Two cases where I semi-consistanly get problems: - Borderlands windowed after some period of time (and some other games, but Borderlands does it pretty regularly) - watching a video (e.g. quicktime/vlc) and having another video running Another thought is non-cpu heat? Maybe the graphics card? Any thoughts on how to track this down appreciated. Thanks!

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• Laptop overheating within minutes of start up

  - by Spik330

  I have a Dell Windows 7 Home Prem with an I7-720QM. More information on the computer can be found here http://www.dell.com/support/home/us/en/04/product-support/servicetag/51CVCN1/configuration The Problem I am having is the computer will over heat unnaturally fast. From the time it takes from boot to when i can run my diagnostic tools which takes about two minutes the cpu temp is 86c after a few more minutes the cpu temp will reach 100 and the computer will black screen shut down. In total the the laptop can only be run for 3-5 minutes before completely shutting off. During this time there is nothing extensive running. After the laptop shuts down you have to wait for it to cool down or it will shut off even faster sometimes 7-15 seconds well still in the boot screen. Does anyone know what could be the problem maybe a sensor or is the computer fried?

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• PC is randomly shutting off

  - by Bobby

  I have a PC which is randomly shutting off (the hard way, like someone pulled the plug). It's no heat problem, because this can happen after 2 minutes of operation or after 4 hours and I checked the temperature. It's also no problem of the operation system, because it will also do that while in BIOS. If it happens once, you can be sure that it will happen within the next hour another two or three times, and then it works again for over a week or even longer. Possible causes I've thought about so far are: Voltage Fluctuation Loose contact (already replugged all cables within the PC, no luck) Faulty PSU Maybe someone has more ideas to this? P.s.: I don't have the hardware specs with me right now, I'll post them as soon as I get them.

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• Random shut down? Asus N53J Laptopi

  - by Mr.Y

  My Laptop is pretty new and today it random shut down on its own. I was surfing the net and the computer shut down on its own (Like losing power, without any warning). It was the 2nd time, the first time was 3 weeks ago. Btw it happens during cold days. I remember one time I was unable to turn on my laptop at all. So I'm pretty sure it's not related to heat issue... could it be the laptop is too "cold"? My room temperature is around 17=18 degree on average :P edit -I use Windows 7 Professional. -I run memtest86 once and it passed. -I run my laptop WITHOUT battery all the time.

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• VMWare Workstation Dev Machine Disks: one fast or four echofriendly raid?

  - by Avi

  I'm building a new dev computer. It will be running a few VMWare Worksation virtual machines - A dev machine running VS-2010, a build machine, a version-control machine, a web server for testing, a "personal" machine running office etc. I'll be connecting the computer to my stereo, so I'll also be running iTunes (possible on a dedicated VM) and I want the computer to be a silent one. I'll probably use an Antec P183 case. I was advised on Serverfault to use Raid10 for performance. Raid 10 uses 4 disks. So, my question is as follows: In terms of heat, noise, reliability, warranty, price, capacity and performance, what would you suggest: A Raid10 4 disk array using eco-friendly disks such as the $94 1TB Western Digital Caviar Green, or one high performance disk such as the 2TB Western Digital Caviar Black at $280?

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• building a new pc - no display, no beeps

  - by Adam

  Hi Building a new pc using this motherboard: GA-MA785GMT-UD2H and a 500W power supply (1 x 20 pin & 1 x 4 pin connectors). The CPU fan, hard drive and power supply all spin up but no display on the monitor and no beeps. Have tried: taking out all of the memory and still no beeps used a different power supply and still no display I only have the Motherboard, memory, CPU, heat sink & fan & power supply connected. Any ideas? Do I have a faulty motherboard?

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• PC won't boot with 4 prong CPU connector connected. Motherboard or CPU dead - which one? Both?

  - by scrot

  In the middle of use, my computer shut down. I tried to turn it on but it maybe comes on for half a second, shuts down, then flickers again very quickly about 2 seconds later before giving up completely. So I took everything apart and nailed it down to the power supply, the mobo, or the CPU. I had an extra old power supply around, hooked that up and it had the same problems, so that can't be it. When the 4 prong CPU connector is not connected, the motherboard 'functions' in that it stays on and runs the heat sink etc. Throw in the 4 prong connector and that's when it doesn't stay on. So it must be the CPU, right? Motherboard: ASUS P6X58D CPU: Intel i7-920 Bot are under warranty (supposedly) - should I get both replaced or what?

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