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  • Asus Eee PC 1000HE wireless woes

    - by Vladimir Noobokov
    Ever since I have upgraded my Asus Eee PC 1000HE from Lucid 10.04 to Precise 12.04 I have been having issues with my wireless connections. At first I had wireless dropouts: I would be able to start using wireless, but then after a few minutes the wireless would stop working even though I was still connected to the network. Lately things turned worse: while I connect to my wireless network, it just never works. I tried all sorts of solutions on offer here and in other forums but none worked. At best I got the wireless to work up until I rebooted, at which point I would get the same symptoms again: the wireless network is there, but it's not really working. By now I tried so many different "solutions" I don't know where to start describing them; I have also reinstalled 12.04 several times, enough to make me lose faith in Ubuntu. Help here looks like my last resort. For the record, my Asus Eee PC 1000HE is equipped with an Atheros wireless card. I have reinstalled 12.04, ran all the suggested updates, and receive the following response when I type iwconfig in the terminal: lo no wireless extensions. wlan0 IEEE 802.11bgn ESSID:"Arsenal" Mode:Managed Frequency:2.452 GHz Access Point: 00:04:ED:48:67:89 Bit Rate=1 Mb/s Tx-Power=16 dBm Retry long limit:7 RTS thr:off Fragment thr:off Power Management:off Link Quality=70/70 Signal level=-29 dBm Rx invalid nwid:0 Rx invalid crypt:0 Rx invalid frag:0 Tx excessive retries:27 Invalid misc:57 Missed beacon:0 eth0 no wireless extensions. Thanks in advance for any help that might be offered.

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  • Creating an ad-hoc wireles network on a router

    - by bo7ons
    My router is a Wag200g with openwag firmware. My laptop is connected to the university's internet through an ethernet cable and i have to set the browser proxy settings to connect. I want to create an ad-hoc network with a router so that i can let my laptop do the proxy routing/forwarding itself and that my android phone can connect to it and use my university's proxy (I've tried setting the proxy on my phone but it wont work).. Or am i approaching this the wrong way?

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  • broadcom 43225 wireless on acer laptop is disabled

    - by Robbie
    I have a acer aspire 5820T with a broadcom 43225 wireless card. I previously used ubuntu 10.10 and the wireless worked straight away, but when I updated to 11.04 the wireless stopped working. I have managed to get the wireless hardware to switch on for a couple of seconds before turning off (When you turn the wireless on using the manual switch the wireless light stays on for a couple of seconds and in the drop down connections menu the information under wireless networks changes from 'device not ready' to 'Disconnected' but shows no wireless networks despite there being one). So far I have tried installing an additional driver, and also disabling the additional driver and installing b43-fwcutter and firmware b43 installer. There may have been other things that I've found in searches that i've tried but unfortunately I can't remember them. Any help would be appreciated.

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  • Wireless Bridging between BTVoyager 2500V-8C and Belkin G+ Mimo Or D-link DSL-G604T

    - by Morgeh
    Anyone got any ideas how to set up a wireless network bridge between the routers mentioned above? I have a router connected to the internet in one part of the house (BTVoyager) but the wireless range doesnt reach to the other end of the house :-( I also have two spare wireless routers(Belkin G+ Mimo and D-Link DSL-G604T) but as far as I can tell neither of them support wireless bridging.

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  • Looking for cheap Wireless router, with USB for attached USB disk drive

    - by geoffc
    I have a 802.11b router at home (DLink DI-614+ (B rev)) and it is working perfectly well for me. I want to replace it though, since it is out of updates, and now several years old and heck, I want a new toy to configure! I was trying to decide what to get. I could care less about 802.11g or n support, since B is fast enough, but every device in my house is now B/G, so G would be fine for me. N buys me little to nothing. (Small enough house that range is a non-issue). The features I realized I want are a USB port for sharing a USB hard drive. I would like to have a central device I could store files on. I do not want to waste the power of an always running PC to do this, so a router seems like the place to go. I would love it, if it could support Vonage VOIP as well, then I could ditch a power brick from a second device (I have the small DLink Vonage VOIP box). All the current examples of this router (with USB drive, yet to find one with VOIP too!) are in the $100+ range, and N and silly, when a B/G is in the $30 range around here.

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  • Looking for home networking hardware and software advice

    - by phobos7
    Note: I originally wrote this up in a blog post. I've removed any affiliate links that I put in my original post to ensure I don't annoy anybody. I've recently moved home and I now need to go to the trouble of sorting out my home network yet again. We had Virgin broadband in Hertford but you can't get Virgin in the street we've moved to so I've had to go with O2 Broadband. Normally I prefer to use my own hardward, and previously used the DLink DIR-655 router which was great, but in this situation I am using the O2 Wirelss Box III since I only have an old Netgear DG834PN Wireless G modem router and I'd rather be using Wireless N. Anyway, the place we have moved into has only one phone point in the hallway, has the best TV point in one room and the best place to put the TV and other entertainment stuff in yet another room. So, networking the house up for Internet and TV is required. The diagram below shows the things that I'll have in my home network but there are three points where I'm not quite sure what hardware to us. Wireless Access Point/Bridge, that acts only as a wireless to wire bridge and not an AP, that links up a Media Centre/PC and a couple of consoles to the network. I'm pretty much settled on us an Acer Aspire Revo R3600 as my media PC, probably with Ubuntu or Windows and XBMC installed. Wireless Access Point/Bridge, that acts only as a wireless to wire bridge and not an AP, that links up a device that can decode and stream TV from a TV aerial across the network. The device that is connected to 2). At the moment I'm considering a HDHomeRun by SiliconDust. At the moment I'm considering either the TP LINK TL-WA701ND 150Mbps Wireless Lite N Access Point (very cheap at Amazon) or the Netgear 5 GHz Wireless-N HD Access Point/Bridge. I'd love to get some insight into what you would do in my situation. What Wireless Access Point/Bridge should I put at points 1) and 2)? What device should I choose for point 3) that can decode and stream a TV signal? Is the Acer Aspire Revo R3600 a good choice? ![alt text][6] Note 2: I've also posted this question on AVForums.

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  • TP-LINK TD-W8151N Modem/router as just wi-fi router

    - by Reshma
    I am planning to buy TP-LINK ADSL wifi router (model TD-W8151N) for my Internet connection which provides Internet through ADSL telephone line. I am also planning to take cable internet in a few months which provides internet through a LAN cable without the need of any modem. So I would like to have my modem work for both connections which I am using. When using cable internet I want this TP-Link modem to work just as a wireless router (so that I can have the freedom to use my laptop in different rooms instead of sitting at a place by plugging in that cable). Is it possible to use this modem in that way? I don't have much knowledge about these things except that I can configure things as instructed. Please suggest me whether I should go ahead and buy this one or if there is any other modem in your view which can serve both my purposes, let me know. Operating System I am using: Windows 7

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  • Secure Your Wireless Router: 8 Things You Can Do Right Now

    - by Chris Hoffman
    A security researcher recently discovered a backdoor in many D-Link routers, allowing anyone to access the router without knowing the username or password. This isn’t the first router security issue and won’t be the last. To protect yourself, you should ensure that your router is configured securely. This is about more than just enabling Wi-Fi encryption and not hosting an open Wi-Fi network. Disable Remote Access Routers offer a web interface, allowing you to configure them through a browser. The router runs a web server and makes this web page available when you’re on the router’s local network. However, most routers offer a “remote access” feature that allows you to access this web interface from anywhere in the world. Even if you set a username and password, if you have a D-Link router affected by this vulnerability, anyone would be able to log in without any credentials. If you have remote access disabled, you’d be safe from people remotely accessing your router and tampering with it. To do this, open your router’s web interface and look for the “Remote Access,” “Remote Administration,” or “Remote Management” feature. Ensure it’s disabled — it should be disabled by default on most routers, but it’s good to check. Update the Firmware Like our operating systems, web browsers, and every other piece of software we use, router software isn’t perfect. The router’s firmware — essentially the software running on the router — may have security flaws. Router manufacturers may release firmware updates that fix such security holes, although they quickly discontinue support for most routers and move on to the next models. Unfortunately, most routers don’t have an auto-update feature like Windows and our web browsers do — you have to check your router manufacturer’s website for a firmware update and install it manually via the router’s web interface. Check to be sure your router has the latest available firmware installed. Change Default Login Credentials Many routers have default login credentials that are fairly obvious, such as the password “admin”. If someone gained access to your router’s web interface through some sort of vulnerability or just by logging onto your Wi-Fi network, it would be easy to log in and tamper with the router’s settings. To avoid this, change the router’s password to a non-default password that an attacker couldn’t easily guess. Some routers even allow you to change the username you use to log into your router. Lock Down Wi-Fi Access If someone gains access to your Wi-Fi network, they could attempt to tamper with your router — or just do other bad things like snoop on your local file shares or use your connection to downloaded copyrighted content and get you in trouble. Running an open Wi-Fi network can be dangerous. To prevent this, ensure your router’s Wi-Fi is secure. This is pretty simple: Set it to use WPA2 encryption and use a reasonably secure passphrase. Don’t use the weaker WEP encryption or set an obvious passphrase like “password”. Disable UPnP A variety of UPnP flaws have been found in consumer routers. Tens of millions of consumer routers respond to UPnP requests from the Internet, allowing attackers on the Internet to remotely configure your router. Flash applets in your browser could use UPnP to open ports, making your computer more vulnerable. UPnP is fairly insecure for a variety of reasons. To avoid UPnP-based problems, disable UPnP on your router via its web interface. If you use software that needs ports forwarded — such as a BitTorrent client, game server, or communications program — you’ll have to forward ports on your router without relying on UPnP. Log Out of the Router’s Web Interface When You’re Done Configuring It Cross site scripting (XSS) flaws have been found in some routers. A router with such an XSS flaw could be controlled by a malicious web page, allowing the web page to configure settings while you’re logged in. If your router is using its default username and password, it would be easy for the malicious web page to gain access. Even if you changed your router’s password, it would be theoretically possible for a website to use your logged-in session to access your router and modify its settings. To prevent this, just log out of your router when you’re done configuring it — if you can’t do that, you may want to clear your browser cookies. This isn’t something to be too paranoid about, but logging out of your router when you’re done using it is a quick and easy thing to do. Change the Router’s Local IP Address If you’re really paranoid, you may be able to change your router’s local IP address. For example, if its default address is 192.168.0.1, you could change it to 192.168.0.150. If the router itself were vulnerable and some sort of malicious script in your web browser attempted to exploit a cross site scripting vulnerability, accessing known-vulnerable routers at their local IP address and tampering with them, the attack would fail. This step isn’t completely necessary, especially since it wouldn’t protect against local attackers — if someone were on your network or software was running on your PC, they’d be able to determine your router’s IP address and connect to it. Install Third-Party Firmwares If you’re really worried about security, you could also install a third-party firmware such as DD-WRT or OpenWRT. You won’t find obscure back doors added by the router’s manufacturer in these alternative firmwares. Consumer routers are shaping up to be a perfect storm of security problems — they’re not automatically updated with new security patches, they’re connected directly to the Internet, manufacturers quickly stop supporting them, and many consumer routers seem to be full of bad code that leads to UPnP exploits and easy-to-exploit backdoors. It’s smart to take some basic precautions. Image Credit: Nuscreen on Flickr     

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  • How to configure wireless in gentoo?

    - by Absolute0
    I have a single access point which i want to connect to on interface ra0, when I run /etc/init.d/ra0 restart I get the following output: gentoo ~ # /etc/init.d/net.ra0 restart * Starting ra0 * Configuring wireless network for ra0 Error for wireless request "Set Mode" (8B06) : SET failed on device ra0 ; Network is down. * ra0 does not support setting the mode to "managed" Error for wireless request "Set Encode" (8B2A) : SET failed on device ra0 ; Network is down. * ra0 does not support setting keys * or the parameter "mac_key_roswell" or "key_roswell" is incorrect Error for wireless request "Set Mode" (8B06) : SET failed on device ra0 ; Network is down. * ra0 does not support setting the mode to "managed" * WEP key is not set for "BAY_WiFi" - not connecting * Couldn't associate with any access points on ra0 * Failed to configure wireless for ra0 when I run iwlist ra0 scan I get "roswell" and "bay-wifi" I want to connect to only roswell. Here is my /etc/conf.d/net: modules= ( "iwconfig" ) key_roswell="ffff-ffff-ff" # no s: means a hex key preferred_aps=( "roswell" ) what am i doing wrong?

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  • How to configure wireless in gentoo?

    - by Absolute0
    I have a single access point which i want to connect to on interface ra0, when I run /etc/init.d/ra0 restart I get the following output: gentoo ~ # /etc/init.d/net.ra0 restart * Starting ra0 * Configuring wireless network for ra0 Error for wireless request "Set Mode" (8B06) : SET failed on device ra0 ; Network is down. * ra0 does not support setting the mode to "managed" Error for wireless request "Set Encode" (8B2A) : SET failed on device ra0 ; Network is down. * ra0 does not support setting keys * or the parameter "mac_key_roswell" or "key_roswell" is incorrect Error for wireless request "Set Mode" (8B06) : SET failed on device ra0 ; Network is down. * ra0 does not support setting the mode to "managed" * WEP key is not set for "BAY_WiFi" - not connecting * Couldn't associate with any access points on ra0 * Failed to configure wireless for ra0 when I run iwlist ra0 scan I get "roswell" and "bay-wifi" I want to connect to only roswell. Here is my /etc/conf.d/net: modules= ( "iwconfig" ) key_roswell="ffff-ffff-ff" # no s: means a hex key preferred_aps=( "roswell" ) what am i doing wrong?

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  • Improve wireless performance

    - by djechelon
    Hello, I have a Trust Speedshare Turbo Pro router, which is running on channel 6. I found that the wireless signal (and network performance) dramatically drops from my PDA (I can barely attach to the network, even if I set the PDA's energy settings to maximum wireless performance) when I even exit my room, and I don't have shielded walls or something like that. I can't even stream a SD video from my desktop (connected via LAN) to my laptop using WiFi, while via LAN it works fine. I read that changing router's channel could improve performance due to interference reducing. I found that almost all wireless networks around here run on channels 6 and 11. I tried to go to my router's settings page to change channel, but I found that the combo box only allows me to select 6!! I'm not sure, but I may have been able in the past to change channel, though not to all of the available channels. A few minutes ago I tried a firmware upgrade, but it didn't solve my problem. My question is Is it possible that my router is someway locked to its channel? I bought it on my own, I didn't receive it from my ISP Apart from boosting the antenna power to the maximum (which, by the way, increases the EM radiation my and my family's bodies absorb 24/7 and is little more environment-unfriendly), do you have any tips on getting high quality transmission up to 5 metres from the antenna? Thank you

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  • cisco 2911 router vs 2811 router

    - by NickToyota
    Just wondering if anyone has experience with the cisco 2911 or 2900 series routers. I understand it is newer and similar to the 2811 but more robust. The price difference is not that much more. I am trying to determine if I should go with the 29xx or 28xx series for a small-medium sized company. ISP bandwidth load balancing and fail over is required. T1 and ADSL lines already in place.

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  • Wireless on Medion MD96500 (Intel® PRO/Wireless 2200BG) running Windows 7

    - by Jakob Schmitt
    I just installed Windows 7 (32 bit) on a Medion MD96500 (Intel 2200BG Wireless Card) and then installed the Windows Vista (32 bit) driver. Now, in the "device driver window", the Wireless Card is listed as working/active. If I want to set up a wireless connection, however, I always get the error message "No connections available". Pushing the hardware-switch (or however that thing is called, right next to the keyboard) does not seem to have any effect.

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  • Can't connect to wireless router anymore due to data rate problem

    - by Jay White
    I was playing around with my wireless router, and switched the mode to a fixed mode B. Now< I can no longer assoicate to the AP. Windows does not give any particular error message, but with wireshark I see that the returned error is that the client does not support the necessary data rate. My wireless card is type n, and it is set to mode a/b/g compatible. I tried setting ot to just b, however this made no difference. How can I set the data rate of my card so that I can connect again to my AP? I would prefer not to just reset the device, as there has been some configuration done that would be a pain to redo, and as well I do not have the ISP password handy. Regardless I would like to understand this situation better.

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  • Wireless bridge between two prolink adsl modem/router

    - by MyName
    Allright, so i've got 2 prolink hurricane h5004n. Its a broadband adsl modem and router. My Pc is connected to the first one via ethernet. What i want to do is a wireless bridge to make the 2 routers "talk". I've tried hooking up the dsl cable (as they are modems) in both to try but when one disconnects as the other connects. I don't really know about the configurations to be done of all the DCHP or RIP and NAT forwarding stuffs. (i'm just writing what i saw) In short i want the second router to act as a wifi repeater but i don't see any repeater option and i also do not want to connect them via ethernet. So is it possible to do something? Apart from buying another repeater i don't want to spend anymore i'm done :S

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  • Netgear Router missing Wireless Configuration Menu Link

    - by ccisystems
    I have a Netgear WiFi router DG834G v3. On it it says it's a WiFi, ADSL 2+ modem, switch, etc. There is an antenna on the back and a WiFi indicator on the front. However, when I connect to it via the web interface, the wireless setup link is missing from the menu. The top label indicates it is a DG834 (without G). I have received it from a friend and was really looking forward to using it but I really need the WiFi part. I looked on Netgear's site as I thought someone must have uploaded the wrong firmware for the device sometime - so I upgraded to the latest firmware, but it still says it's NOT a 'G' device and the wireless menu is nowhere to be found. I'd appreciate a push in the right direction as to what I could do. Is it possible that the WiFi chip is broken or something and the device does not detect it and the firmware reverts the device to a different version?

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  • "DNS not responding" error with D-Link router and PPTP internet connection

    - by Born2win
    I have a D-Link DIR-615 router since around six months. My internet connection is VPN (PPTP) based, i.e. I have been given a username and password from my ISP and my IP address is dynamic. Since a few days I am experiencing a serious problem. My router connects normally (I can see the yellow light), but my computer is giving me a "DNS not responding" error. I have tried everything (reset, reboot etc.) but no success.

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  • Using wifi router as bridge to increase signal?

    - by overtherainbow
    A friend of mine lives in an appartment building whose structure is such that wifi signal is very weak. Even a USB key won't work. I was thinking of buying an entry-level wifi router and reconfigure it as a bridge to act as repeater. Would that increase the chance of getting a good signal, or I shouldn't bother? If experience shows that it does improve things significantly, is their another router I should look at besides the Linux-based Linksys models? Thank you.

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  • Configuring two nearby WLANs: should I use the same ssid?

    - by Rory
    I'm configuring a home network for basic internet use (ie don't really need connectivity between workstations on the network). My brick walls mean a single wireless router doesn't provide good coverage throughout the house, so I have purchased two powerline adapters and now have the incoming modem/wireless router at one end of the house plugged into a powerline adapter, and at the other end of the house the other powerline adapter plugged into another wireless router. Currently the two wireless networks have different ssids. (The powerline adapters only do power-Ethernet; they're not wireless access points themselves.) This works well, except when I move between rooms and would ideally like my devices (iPad, phones, laptops) to switch from the weak to the strong signal. Sometimes there's enough signal that they hold on to the weak connects instead of switching to the strong one. Should I name the two networks the same ssid, and if so what is the actual effect? Do the signals get confused, is the bandwidth affected, will this help my devices seamlessly move from one to the other, or is the ssid just a cosmetic thing that actually doesn't have any impact on this situation? Are there any other settings that I should configure to make my setup optimal?

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  • Sagem Router Wifi Key Issue

    - by user23392
    Hi I have a multiservices sagem router which supports wifi as well, the pack came up with a default wifi configuration key and a WEP Key in the label of the package like this: WIFI Configuration key: abcd1234 WEP Key: C4H2F167C10263AEB98V52920E Now, when i execute the wifi usb wizard in the official cd, it asks me for the WIFI key, i put the abcd1234 & it says it's incorrect, i try the long WEP key and it says that the key should only have 8 characters. When i go to the control panel of the router in the wifi config, i see that: Open Authentification System WEP 128 Bit Passphrase: C4H2F167C10263AEB98V52920E Now since the wizard only accepts 8 characters, i try to change the 128bit to 64bit and put some 8 characters and it ends up saying that the new key should be 5 or 13, or 10-26 hex numbers. What to do? Thanks

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  • D-Link router WiFi and LAN segment

    - by StreetStrider
    I have D-Link 2650 router. Some wireless and wired clients connected to it. The problem is there is no interconnection between wireless and wired devices. For instance, when I start webserver on PC connected to wired LAN, WiFi devices cannot access it (other wired devices can). However all devices are in the same subnet: 192.168.1.x. How can I connect WiFi and LAN devices to one network? Or maybe what I should know first (any information with which I can proceed)?

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  • Hardware wireless switch has no effect after suspend and 13.10 upgrade

    - by blaineh
    This seems to be a fairly chronic problem, as shown by the following questions: How do I fix a "Wireless is disabled by hardware switch" error? Wireless disabled by hardware switch "Wireless disabled by hardware switch" after suspend and other hardware buttons ineffective - how can I solve this? but no good solutions have been found! Wireless works fine after a reboot, but after a suspend the hardware switch (for my laptop this is f12) has no effect on the wireless, it is just permanently off, and shows that it is with a red LED. All My rfkill list all reads: 0: phy0: Wireless LAN Soft blocked: no Hard blocked: yes 1: hp-wifi: Wireless LAN Soft blocked: no Hard blocked: yes Any combination with rfkill <un>block wifi doesn't work, although one time first blocking then unblocking actually turned it on again. sudo lshw -C network reads: *-network DISABLED description: Wireless interface product: AR9285 Wireless Network Adapter (PCI-Express) vendor: Qualcomm Atheros physical id: 0 bus info: pci@0000:02:00.0 logical name: wlan0 version: 01 serial: 78:e4:00:65:2e:3f width: 64 bits clock: 33MHz capabilities: pm msi pciexpress bus_master cap_list ethernet physical wireless configuration: broadcast=yes driver=ath9k driverversion=3.11.0-12-generic firmware=N/A ip=155.99.215.79 latency=0 link=yes multicast=yes wireless=IEEE 802.11bgn resources: irq:17 memory:90100000-9010ffff *-network DISABLED description: Ethernet interface product: RTL8101E/RTL8102E PCI Express Fast Ethernet controller vendor: Realtek Semiconductor Co., Ltd. physical id: 0 bus info: pci@0000:03:00.0 logical name: eth0 version: 02 serial: c8:0a:a9:89:b4:30 size: 10Mbit/s capacity: 100Mbit/s width: 64 bits clock: 33MHz capabilities: pm msi pciexpress msix vpd bus_master cap_list rom ethernet physical tp mii 10bt 10bt-fd 100bt 100bt-fd autonegotiation configuration: autonegotiation=on broadcast=yes driver=r8169 driverversion=2.3LK-NAPI duplex=half latency=0 link=no multicast=yes port=MII speed=10Mbit/s resources: irq:42 ioport:2000(size=256) memory:90010000-90010fff memory:90000000-9000ffff memory:90020000-9002ffff Also, adding a /etc/pm/sleep.d/brcm.sh file as recommended here simply prevents the laptop from suspending at all, which of course is no good. This question has an answer urging to install the original driver, but it wasn't an "accepted answer" so I'd rather not take a chance on it. Also I'll admit I'm a bit lost on that and would like help doing so with the specific information I've given. xev shows that no internal event is triggered for my wireless switch (f12), but other function keys also acting as hardware switches work fine. I would be happy to provide more information, so long as you're willing to help me find it for you! This is a very annoying bug. I have a Compaq Presario CQ62. Edit. I just tried to reload bios defaults (or something) as shown by this video. Didn't work. Edit. I tried the contents of this answer, and it didn't work. Edit. I made a pastebin of dmesg. I couldn't even begin to understand the contents. Edit. Output of lspci | grep Network: 02:00.0 Network controller: Qualcomm Atheros AR9285 Wireless Network Adapter (PCI-Express) (rev 01)

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  • Wireless disconnects every 30 minutes

    - by Kez
    I have had a look through all the related questions and I get the feeling my problem is unique. My wireless connection disconnects every 30 minutes, for maybe 1 to 3 seconds. If I am browsing the web while it happens, I get the page cannot be displayed error message. I have checked the event logs as I was curious to know if there was anything in there. There is. Event 8033: BROWSER - The browser has forced an election on network \Device\NetBT_Tcpip_{B919CC30-25A9-45DD-A09F-549A6262FC9E} because a master browser was stopped. Reported exactly every 30 minutes which coincides with my wireless problem. I am running Windows 7 Ultimate, 32-bit. My wireless is Realtek RTL8187 integrated into a ASUS P5K-E/Wifi motherboard. It is on a workgroup and has never been on a domain. This problem does not affect any other computers. Wireless reception is great, and I have ensured that the wireless unit is transmitting on a frequency not used by any nearby wireless basestations. How can I fix this pesky problem?

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  • Configuring home wireless network

    - by dvanaria
    I'm new to setting up a home wireless network. I have Comcast tv/internet/phone service (modem included) as well as a wireless router. My question is pretty basic. How can I tell the performance of the following parts of the network? 1. incoming internet speed 2. speed of the modem 3. speed of the wireless router I basically want as fast an internet connection as possible, of course, but I'm not sure where to look for the bottleneck (and so, not sure where I can spend some money to speed things up). Right now I'm getting about 36 Mbps (as it shows in Windows). If I run an online speed test (xfinity has one) it shows Average download speed of 14.91 Mbps and Average upload speed of 5.72 Mbps. Thanks for your help.

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