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• How can I wipe my iPod classic and fix any bad sectors on the hard drive without killing it?

  - by Sam Meldrum

  My iPod never finishes syncing and only syncs audio, not pictures or video - any ideas as to how I can fix it? My iPod classic 160GB worked well for a couple of years. I used to sync a lot of photos at full resolution to it, but this recently stopped working after I moved to Windows 7. iTunes is on latest version - 9.1.1.12 iPod software is up to date - 1.1.2 Windows 7 is fully up to date and patched The symptoms are that the iPod will start to sync, all audio (music and podcasts will sync successfully) but the syncing will then just appear to continue - itunes message: Syncing iPod. Do not Disconnect. This sync never completes - I have left it trying for days. I have tried resetting the iPod using the Restore button, whereupon it restarts sync from default options and again will sync audio, but nothing else. I suspect that something has gone wrong on the hard-drive - either a bad sector or some corrupt data. Is there a process I can go through to fix this? E.g. SpinRite or a format? If so how do I go about formatting an iPod and will it be recognised as an iPod after format and work as normal? Any advice on what to try next much appreciated? Update I have eliminated problems with the files, PC or iTunes as they sync fine to other iPods. I have also eliminated the cable by trying different cables which work with other iPods. What I'd really like to know is if there is any way to more fundamentally wipe the iPod safely, attempt to repair any bad sectors on the hard drive and then start from scratch. Anyone ever managed this?

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• MicroSD card isn't detected by computer, apparently usable only with phone

  - by paulcjoubert

  I have a 4GB MicroSD card that apparently only works (in the sense that the device detects and can read and write from and to the card) with my old Nokia XpressMusic 5800 phone. I have taken pictures and recorded voice notes that were saved on the card. These are accessible after the card has been removed, which tells me that the problem isn't with the card. The card could also not be locked to the phone as it would at least be detected by a computer and it would be able to write raw data to it with dd, such as /dev/zero. Also, the card is not the Nokia card that came with the phone and I have done nothing that would have caused it to be locked. (I could not find anything on Nokia's website that helps, but then again... my search was not THAT thorough.) The card works on no other device that I have tried so far. I have tried it in my Canon camera (through an adapter), but it refuses to even boot with the card inserted. My card reader (via USB cable and hub) is detected as /dev/sdx with or without the card inserted. When trying to access the card I get an "No medium found". dmesg does not report any change at all when inserting and removing the card. I would obviously like to use my card on other devices - the phone is quite old - and even a likely explanation would help. Thankyou in advance! EDIT 1: I can use the card by connecting the phone to my computer, but this is impractical and would not allow me to use the card in any other device. EDIT 2: The data on the card is not important to me at all.

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• Access router set up as a bridge behind another router

  - by Alari Truuts

  I have a problem my ISP is refusing to help me with, even though they put up the whole system. Specifications: There's a Thomson TG784 router through which the internet comes in to the building, Behind that (for some reason) is a Juniper NetScreen 5XT - 105 Firewall/Router? which leads to an AMX nxa-enet24 switch that carries the connections all over the building and a series of Apple AirPorts for wifi. Problem: The first router (Thomson) is required for ipTV (by Elion). The tv or ipTV box has to be connected straight to the Thomson router. My service provider cannot see the Thomson router from their side, but see the Juniper, so we might think the Thomson has been configured as a bridge. I need a way to access the Thomson router and see it's configurations, because currently, when connecting a Samsung tv to that router (with elion app for ipTV viewing) or even a computer, it cannot access the internet and even if it could, it would update the Thomson router software, losing it's configurations which I need to preserve. I'm unable to find out the Thomson routers ip address to connect to it, and when directly conencting with a cat5 cable, it doesn't give me an ip address. Hope someone can show me the correct direction for solving my issue. Thank you all for reading, and I appreciate any help, Alari Truuts

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• How do I use a Minitel terminal as a linux dumb terminal

  - by Pawz

  I recently purchased a US version of the Alcatel Minitel terminal. I think it's a 1B version. Pictures of it here: I tried connecting a null modem to the 25 pin port on the back and plugging it into a linux box running agetty but I couldn't get it to show any signs of being connected. I used Google Translate to translate this document into English: http://mirabellug.org/wikini/upload/Documentations_minitel.pdf As far as I can tell, you take it out of videotex mode by typing Fcnt-T A, then turn off local echo with Fcnt-T E, then set it to 4800 baud with Fcnt-P 4. I presume Fcnt refers to the "CTRL" key on my terminal. But I think I'm doing something wrong, because it doesn't look like it's recognising the keystrokes, because "Fcnt-T A" just prints the letter A to the screen, which is not what you'd expect a function key combo to do. Has anyone used these minitel terminals as a linux terminal, and if so, please can you share how to configure the minitel to run as a terminal ? Is the 25 pin plug even the correct port to use ? I read something online that indicated you're supposed to use the 5 pin DIN plug instead, is that right ? If so, what's the 25 pin plug for ? If I am supposed to use the DIN plug, does anyone know the pinouts so I can make a cable ?

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• Error - "IR Hardware not detected" - but it's installed/working

  - by Robert

  I am trying to do: Settings-TV-Set up TV signal. During this process I am getting the error "IR Hardware not detected." With the remote, I can select the "try again" button (to re-detect) and it tries again, so the remote works. Plugging in the "IR blaster" doesn't change anything. (I wouldn't expect any difference, but I read a post which said you needed that. I will get Media Center to change channels if I can get that working - but first things first.) I was able to do the setup months ago when I had cable. and everything was fine. I just got DirecTV. (BTW - During the above process, Media Center detects the signal coming in on channel 3. Windows XP Media Center SP3. The TV Tuner card is a Pinnacle TCTV HD PCI. Everything - and I mean everything - has the latest firmware and drivers - as of 4 months ago when I fixed a different problem. So I DON"T WANT TO HEAR the standard answer to check drivers/firmware. THANK YOU.) Thanks for any help.

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• How to configure networking on an appliance such that it can plug and play on any corporate network?

  - by Joshua Lim

  I had a chance to configure a Moxa NPort device server appliance on my client's network, it was very easy to do so, done in just 2 minutes. Here's what I did:- The Moxa device server had a preset IP address of 192.168.127.254 and subnet mask 255.255.255.0 - http://www.moxa.com/doc/manual/nport/5400/NPort_5400_Series_Users_Manual_v4.pdf Moxa provides a Windows software which I used to "scan" for the device server. It worked like magic! The software returns a list of device servers found. Each device server is identified by MAC address, and by selecting the device server using the software, I can reset the default IP address and subnet mask of that device server! In comparison, during an earlier project, I spent 2 hours trying to get KVM to work for a Windows 7 embedded appliance I'm trying to install in my client's network - http://superuser.com/questions/380305/how-to-configure-windows-7-professional-appliance-pc-on-my-clients-network-usin Prior to that, I have already tried pre-configuring the IP address and subnet mask to the one which my client provided, yet the appliance still can't connect to the client's network! I've also tried cross cable, didn't work either. After KVM worked, I discovered that the network settings were "lost" after I plug the machine into the client's network. Now my question is what can I do to setup my Windows 7 embedded appliance so that it can connect to any network like that the Moxa device server? I tried experimenting this on my network using a Windows machine configured to an IP address of 192.168.127.254 and subnet mask 255.255.255.0, but it doesn't connect to my network that uses 192.168.0.*. :( EDIT: I would like to point out that the Moxa Windows configuration software seems to be able to connect to any Moxa device connected to the network even if it is on a different subnet, as long as the network adapter shows "connected". This is important because the Moxa device has no VGSM port or interface to configure the IP address.

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• Alternative software for Pinnacle PCTV 100e

  - by Stijn Sanders

  I have a Pinnacle PCTV 100e external USB cable television receiver. I've been using Pinnacle's software that came with the card (TVCenter Pro) to record things at given times. Things I don't like is an extremely high CPU load, and that it doesn't seem to halt the screensaver from running when watching in full screen. Also, I was away the last two weeks, and the schedules went terribly bust. Some items were recorded hours before or after the actual scheduled time (and now I missed some shows), and some recurring schedules weren't converted into the next occurrence correctly! Is there good alternative software that would work with my PCTV 100e? (Preferalby cheap or free) I've tried VLC Player, which gets video, but no audio. I've tried MediaPortal, which crashes when trying to scan for channels. When I select a channel manually, the stored mpg has big errors in encoding and is also missing audio. There's VirtualDub, but that doesn't have ready-made scheduled-recording options. This I can conjure some scheduled scripts for, but I've noticed the sync gets awfully wrong after some time. I've tried Windows Media Center, but it doesn't seem to support the PCTV 100e.

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• Motherboard running rather hot while gaming

  - by I take Drukqs

  Case: Antec 1200 Mobo: Gigabyte GA-X58A-UD3R CPU: Intel i7 950 (stock cooler) GPU: EVGA GeForce 570 GTX RAM: 2x 2 GB (4 GB total) DDR3 dual-channel Corsair OS: Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit This is my first build and it's brand new. I had no problems putting it all together in a few hours one evening and I consider myself to be pretty good with computers. Not to brag or anything like that! Just saying I've been fiddling with them since I was in diapers and I have a good amount of experience under my belt, just not with certain things yet. Recently while playing many of the latest games maxed out without a hitch my motherboard has been running hot and like anyone who's ever built a computer it scares the life out of me. I checked HWMonitor and saw that my motherboard sometimes reached temperatures of around 52 - 78c (the number 78 obviously being what's scaring me). I was wondering if such a temperature is normal and if not what the problem could be. Air flow in my case is phenomenal and besides having to ship back a faulty GPU and reseat my CPU my first build has been a very large success which I am enjoying tremendously. There is literally almost no dust in my case due to it being very new as previously mentioned and my RAM sticks are in the correct slots for dual-channel mode. My cable management is pretty great in my opinion with only cables from my PSU lingering in the bottom of the case. At any given opportunity I ran my cables behind my mobo. Air flow should definitely not be a problem because my CPU only goes up to about 60c and my GPU only goes up to about 80c. Thank you very much in advance.

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• SSD Drive not being recongized in BIOS

  - by chobo2

  Well I bought my first drive Mushkin Chronos 180GB and got it installed in my computer and loaded up. I went to windows 7 and initialized the drive and then I installed "SSDlife Free" and loaded it up and my the SSD drive came up said it was "powered on 3 times"(thought it was odd but then thought maybe some testing???). I then restarted my computer and loaded into Acronis. Went to my SSD drive and make a partition called windows(made a basic logical partition). I then loaded up Norton ghost and wanted to copy my current windows onto the SSD drive on the partition I made found out I could not do it through the recovery disk so I made a backup of my windows drive and wanted to then restore it onto the SSD drive. Came back an hour later when the backup was done. I tried to restore the it on my SSD drive and could not find the partition so I loaded up Acronis again and it did not see it. I then went to the bios and saw only my other hard drive. What I tried Tried uplugging and replugging in both sata and power cables. Tried using the power and sata cable from the working drive and giving it the ones that SSD drive were using. Tried Sata AHCI Mode (Intel ICH9 Southbridge) Tried SATA PORT0-1 NATIVE MODE (Intel ICH9 Southbridge) Nothing worked. Software / hardware Windows 7 ultimate Gigabyte S-Series GA-P35-DS3L Mother board I hope someone has some ideas on why it is not being recognized.

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• Cannot find wireless driver for HP laptop

  - by rodey

  I have an HP laptop (model: dv7-1267cl, Windows 7 64-bit Home Premium) and I cannot find the wireless driver for the laptop. I am need of a different version because my wireless connection under Windows is flaky and unreliable. I have problems printing to my wireless printer and logging in to and using several sites like reddit.com, phoenix.edu and facebook.com - I get several "page cannot be displayed" messages while using my wireless connection. I disable my wireless adapter and use an ethernet cable and it all works fine. I also used an Ubuntu Live CD to confirm that there is not a problem with the hardware. This is software/driver issue. The drivers were auto installed by the OS. The Device Manager shows the wireless adapter as Atheros AR5009 802.11 a/g/n WiFi Adapter. I have checked the HP website for my laptop and they do not have wireless drivers listed for that model wireless adapter. I have also checked with atheros.com and I do not see my model adapter on their list of available hardware. Device Manager lists the Hardware ID's for my adapter as: PCI\VEN_168C&DEV_002A&SUBSYS_1381103C&REV_01 PCI\VEN_168C&DEV_002A&SUBSYS_1381103C PCI\VEN_168C&DEV_002A&CC_028000 PCI\VEN_168C&DEV_002A&CC_0280 A search for the first Hardware ID turned up this question from experts-exchange.com. tl;dr A driver does not exist for that model adapter.

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• ESX hosts lose connectivity with iSCSI SAN LUNs

  - by Themist

  I've been experiencing this issue for a couple of months now where my ESX hosts lose connectivity with my iSCSI SAN vmfs volumes. As a results the ESX hosts enter a nonresponsive mode the associated VMs disconnect and the only remedy is to reboot the host. This issue happens randomly . I have escalated this issue with VMWare but I haven't had any solution to the issue yet. I see no errors on my switches and there are no hardware issues as well. My SAN infrastucture is solid and there are 2 paths for every vmfs volume. Did anybody else experienced a similar issue? edit: Here are some more details: The iSCSI SAN software is Datacore Sanmelody 2.0.4.2 running on 2 HP Proliant G5 servers. The storage attached to each of the servers is an HP MSA70 and all the iSCSI SAN Volumes that are presented to my 4 ESX hosts are mirrored. I have two iSCSI swithces HP Procurve 1800G-24 that are trunked together. My SANLELODY servers are using NC360T NICs. I team two NICs and have one cable connecting to each iSCSi switch. Each ESX server uses two NICs as well for the iSCSI Network.

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• Suggestions on the best home server rack cabinet

  - by allentown

  I have a lot of gear in a colocation facility right now. Some of it is going to come home with me now. I do not know anything about the "rack mount" side of the industry. I lease a rack, and I put my stuff in it. I have a few 1U boxes, a few 2U boxes, and a few 4U boxes. 1U switch. One is a new Xserve, which means it is deep. I think I can get by with around 12U to 18U. I want to keep it as small as possible, since I do not have a lot of spare space at my home. I will not be able to bolt to the wall, floor etc, so it should not be tall. This is something I would love to more or less just be a box that sits on the floor but gives me the ability to mount nicely, do nice cable management etc. Are the "post" style racks junk? I am liking the open space, and the no limitations on depth of something like this: http://www.rackmountsolutions.net/images/products/Martin-relay-rack.jpg However, that thing is way too tall, and probably way too expensive. I am looking to be around $300.00 or less. More if I have to, though I would prefer not to. These look near perfect: (See comment for this link, the system will not let me post a second url) but I am worried the Xserve will not fit in it. If anyone has any good links, or website recommendations of good past experience, I would appreciate it. I am almost considering that I may be able to build something with random scraps of stuff at Home Depot as well.

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• External USB HD with -optional- mains?

  - by Stephen

  Hi, I'm Christmas-present-buying, and I'd appreciate recommendations for a USB HD with an optional mains power input. I've hunted, but can't find all the information I want (partially due to sketchy product specifications). Background: This is for a digital TV which I do not own, and so I'd like to get it correct first time. The TV has a USB port to allow recording straight to disk, but the manuals don't say how much power can be drawn through the USB port. The manual's instructions state, possibly generically, to plug the drive in before connecting to the TV. Ideally I'd like a small (2.5"?) drive which can draw power over USB, with an mains power input if it turns out the USB port on the TV doesn't offer enough juice. The ideal is to use one cable, two max. A powered USB hub would introduce too much clutter. I've spotted that the LaCie Petit drives have what appears to be an additional power input, but I'm not even sure from the specs what that is. And the device doesn't ship with a mains adapter. Suggestions?

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• HP G61 Laptop wont boot- display stays off, caps and num lock indicators blink repeatedly

  - by Benguy12

  I had my HP G61 laptop running in sleep for a while. When I came back to it about a half-hour later, it was no longer in sleep mode - the power light and the Wi-Fi indicator light were on (I keep Wi-Fi off becuase I use a wired connection) - but nothing was showing on screen. In fact, the display wasn't even turned on. So I let it sit for about 10 minutes but nothing happened. I did a force shut down and rebooted. Instead of a normal boot, the display didnt turn on, the Wi-Fi indicator was off, and the Caps Lock and Num Lock lights just blinked repeatedly. On the external keyboard i use, none of the light indicators were blinking or even on. I tried force shut-down again 10 times, then unplugged all connections except for the power cable (my laptop battery dosent hold a charge for more than 2 minutes, so I always must have a wall connection) and tried to boot again but still nothing happened. I unplugged the battery and even then nothing happened. I also tried booting with the disk drive open, and then with it closed again. On the time it was closed, I was able to successfully boot into Windows, but recieved a "Windows did not shut-down sucessfully" notice. Does anybody know why this may have happened? My PC's specs: Windows 7 Home Premium, 64-bit 4GB of physical RAM, 8GB of vRAM (on a flash drive) AMD Vision x64 processor (don't know any other specs about it) ATI Radeon graphics card, 392 MB DVD-R/W lightscribe drive 2 External hard-disks (first one is 1.5TB, second one is 1TB) custom boot-screen and boot-annimation Standard BIOS apps running before sleep: firefox 10.4 itunes 10.6 adobe photoshop extended CS5.1 rockstar games social club (running in background) microsoft powerpoint 2010 professional edition google chrome I was NOT running Aero or any fancy themes - I was using the normal windows classic theme. I have a desktop icon manager application called Stardock Fences that was also running (it runs as a service/process).

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• Does the Lenovo t60p vga port support an s-video signal?

  - by Matthijs Wessels

  I just bought a new television. The problem is it turns out it doesn't have a VGA port. It does have: s-video, component, hdmi and scart. My Lenovo t60p only has vga. If have search frantically for a solution and even though it seems I have sooo many options they are all dead ends. Or I keep ending up having to buy a 100 euro box to convert the signal. However, I found that some video cards support s-video through the vga port. It says look it up in your video cards documentation. I have a Lenovo t60p laptop with a ATI MOBILITY FireGl v5250. But I can't seem to get my hands on any documentation where this is supposed to be documented. I found this website: http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=179529&highlight=s-video There this guy says he thinks it's in the t60 but dropped in the t61, but suggests to the guy with the t60 that it won't work. I can't really conclude anything from that. Furthermore, I am not looking for the best of the best quality. So when I found this: *http://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Computor-Presentation-Converter-VGA2TV/dp/B000X3FAJU/ref=pd_cp_e_3_img I woudl be quite happy with this. Except that I don't think I can order it because I don't live in the US. Can anybody give me a definite answer, to whether the vga port of my lenovo t60p ati firegl v5250 supports s-video? So that I can just by a vga to s-video cable to achieve my goal.

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• System freezes during boot process

  - by slugster

  Hi everyone, i have a machine running Win7 Ultimate. It was running fine, then it just froze - all the stuff i was doing was still on the screen, but mouse and keyboard input was ignored, any animation that was happening on the screen stopped, the machine literally just froze. So i rebooted (power off button), from then on the machine will reboot, but it ultimately freezes again. The instance when this happens will vary - i have made it as far as the Windows login screen, but mostly it will do the POST, then give me the option to press F1 to continue or Del to enter BIOS settings (but of course pressing a key has no effect - it's frozen!). I have disconnected everything not necessary for the boot process, the only peripheral that remains attached is the keyboard. (even the network cable is disconnected). Prior to this the machine was operating fine. The install of Win7 is only 2 days old, and it was a fresh reinstall (i.e. not an upgrade or repair). Can anyone give me an indication of what may be wrong here? I'm not sure if this question should be here or on SuperUser, please migrate it if i have chosen the wrong board.

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• If I partition a drive connected via eSata will it show different partitions when connected via USB?

  - by jeffreypriebe

  I have an odd problem with an external drive. I'm formatting it connected to my laptop prior to connecting it to my router. The HDD enclosure has both an eSata and USB connections. Generally, I connect it via eSata to my laptop. I created my partitions and connected it to the router, but I see partition information that is different than what I created. After chasing leads concerning large HDD size, I mindlessly connected the HDD to my laptop with USB. Lo! I see the same partitions as the router. Attached are screenshots using the same program and the HDD in question. The only difference is the connection. For the first, I connected via eSata and hit "refresh" on the partition program. Then, turned off the HDD, disconnected the eSata cable, and connected via USB. Power and refresh. eSata: reports a total HDD size of 2328 GB, with four partitions (the third being 1.96TB) USB: reports a total HDD size of 280 GB, with three partitions (the third being 279 GB) Any idea why this is happening? It looks like it clearly is an issue of the 4K sector size and not playing nice with the USB enclosure. I tried it eSata and USB in Windows and Linux and it appears consistently that eSata is reporting correctly, USB incorrectly.

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• System freezes during boot process

  - by slugster

  Hi everyone, i have a machine running Win7 Ultimate. It was running fine, then it just froze - all the stuff i was doing was still on the screen, but mouse and keyboard input was ignored, any animation that was happening on the screen stopped, the machine literally just froze. So i rebooted (power off button), from then on the machine will reboot, but it ultimately freezes again. The instance when this happens will vary - i have made it as far as the Windows login screen, but mostly it will do the POST, then give me the option to press F1 to continue or Del to enter BIOS settings (but of course pressing a key has no effect - it's frozen!). I have disconnected everything not necessary for the boot process, the only peripheral that remains attached is the keyboard. (even the network cable is disconnected). Prior to this the machine was operating fine. The install of Win7 is only 2 days old, and it was a fresh reinstall (i.e. not an upgrade or repair). Can anyone give me an indication of what may be wrong here? I'm not sure if this question should be here or on SuperUser, please migrate it if i have chosen the wrong board.

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• Recover data from physically damaged harddrive. What are my options?

  - by Michael Kniskern

  I was trying to replace the power supply in my desktop PC and ended up physically damaging the data connection from the hard drive to the motherboard. The plastic shelf for the copper prongs on the hard drive broke into the cable. Here is a picture of my handy work: I went to Best Buy Geek Squad to discuss my options and they said that they will need to send it to the recover center it could cost anywhere between $250 to $1600 USD to recover the data out the hard drive Is this reasonable for data recovery from a physically damaged hard drive? Are there any other options I can explore? I am going to talk to the data doctors to see what my options are. Update I took the HD to Data Doctors, and they told me that the SATA connection was broken to they would need to replaced the data connector and then copy the data to a brand new hard drive. So, with the initial analysis, cost of replacement parts, and data recovery fee it came out to $865.00 USD. The technician specifically stated if this was an older hard drive that would just need to replace the data connector. But because there is specific information related to the individual hard drive in the flash ROM, they need to transfer the data to a brand new hard drive.

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• Using my old PC as a web/file server?

  - by Garrett

  I have an old desktop computer that I've been trying to sell for AGES. I guess nobody is looking for computers because it was advertised at a dirt cheap price on craigslist, local papers, etc. Anyways, I was wondering if it would be worth it to set it up as a home file server, a web dev server (I have a web host for actual production use), and maybe host a few server applications (ex: ventrillo). The computer is actually an old Dell that I cannibalized after the motherboard being destroyed by lightning, so it has fairly new parts in it. The specs are: P4 3.4GHz w/ HT and Artic Cooling Freezer 7 3GB DDR2 533 RAM 80GB hdd (will upgrade the hard drive if it's even worth using as a server) basic dvd rom 430 Watt Thermaltake PSU (it might be important to note that it is only 60% efficiency) ATI Radeon x600 256MB Antec 300 case It's not a really beefy machine, I just can't see giving it away or putting it in the corner to just collect dust. I have Windows Server 2008 R2 Standard and I am confident in my skills in operating most Linux operating systems. I'd also be using it to tinker with when I learn new things in my server admin classes (I'm finishing my 2nd year in college at the moment so I'm still learning) Also, my house is quite old and the electrical wiring is pretty poor (it MIGHT be up to code, then again, where I live most people don't even know what regulations are or let alone know how to spell it...) Would it be safe to leave it running all day and is it going to run up my electric bill because of the PSU efficiency? I only have 5mbit cable internet, but I won't be running very bandwidth intense services on it so it should be ok. I should elaborate on why I am concerned about the power. The circuits should be fine, but I'm more concerned about fire hazard. What is the likelihood that the server could cause an electrical fire? Again, thank you all for the feedback!

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• finding the best network latency between two countries

  - by Yoav Aner

  I know there are many tools to test for bandwidth and latency, but they all rely on having at least one host from which you can run those tests. I wonder whether there's an online source or some other way to guestimate the latency or speed between two countries (in general). For example, would a customer in Japan get lower latency if the server is located in Singapore or Australia? Is a user in India likely to get higher download speed from a server in the UK or in the US? Are there any online resources or some clever ways to answer those questions with a reasonable degree of accuracy? [UPDATE]: Thanks for the great suggestions from Raffael Luthiger. I didn't know about those looking glass servers. The submarine cable maps were also really cool to discover (Thanks to Jesper Mortensen). Also seems really wise if I could ask those network professional in the area for their experience, but obviously I don't have access to those. At least some of them are on SF :) However, I'm still a little unsure how to combine those resources to give me some measurements. This is the information I have: Two countries (A,B). I do have IP addresses of customers in country A (I can obtain those from the web server log files for example). Presumably I can find some looking glass servers in country B and run a trace to those IPs. What's the best measurements to use? Are there any scripts that help automate at least some of this process?

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• Get Internal IP Address From DHCP Hostname

  - by ell

  I would like to try and get an internal ip address of one of the computers on my network. The reason for this is I have a little home server box downstairs but every time I want to SSH into it I have to open my router configuration and go on the DHCP client table and look at the IP address. For example I would like to be able to go ssh ell-sever instead of ssh 192.168.1.105 or whatever it happens to be. My network configuration is like so: Router downstairs that is connected to the Internet and is running a DHCP server My server computer (ell-server) is a headless pc connected to the router via ethernet cable. Running Ubuntu 11.04 Server Edition My laptop upstairs (ell-laptop) that is running Ubuntu 11.10 Desktop Edition connected wirelessly Other (irrelevant) computers - 2 x Windows XP, 1 x Xubuntu - all connected with cables. (It seemed to me the method of connection isn't useful information but I put it in anyway - just in case. If I have missed any information please tell me) Do I have to run a DNS server on one of my computers? If so which one? And does that mean I will have to run a DDNS client on each computer? Thanks in advance, ell.

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• Recommended open-source firmware for ASUS RT-N16

  - by MasterF

  I have recently acquired an ASUS RT-N16 router. My original plan for it was to install Tomato on it. However, after checking their website i found out that the firmware was not updated in the last 2 years. There seem to be a few updated mods but none of them really seemed mature/stable/well-documented. I would like to know what other people recommend as open-source firmware for this router. I know the answers will probably be subjective; so i will give a bit of background on my needs: for now i will only use the Wi-Fi on an Android phone the connection will not be shared with anyone (so QOS is optional) i want a stable (wired) connection on my PC (for online gaming etc.) i want the (wired) download/upload speeds to be as close as possible to those achieved by directly plugging the Ethernet cable to the PC's network card; i have a 100 Mbps connection my ISP uses PPPOE my technical level: i am a software developer and i have good knowledge of bash scripting, but no experience with networking Also, i know that i could probably just use the stock firmware (and maybe will use it for a while), but i'm interested in trying an open-source version (for more features, flexibility, as a learning exercise etc.)

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• Wireless router that supports Bonjour between wire- and wireless- connected machines

  - by cefstat

  At home I have an ADSL modem that I use also as router. For the record, it is a DavoLink DV-2020 provided by Tele2 in the Netherlands. It turns out that if a computer is connected with a cable to the router and another computer is connected wirelessly, then they cannot see each other's services that are advertised through Bonjour (Apple's service discovery protocol, an implementation of Zeroconf). The combinations wired/wired and wireless/wireless work fine. This means that somehow wire- and wireless- connected machines are on different physical networks although their IPs are in the same range (192.168.1.*). The modem in question doesn't provide many options that I could play with. So, I was thinking of buying a second router to connect to the modem, and then connect all my machines to this second router. The problem is that I am afraid that I will have again the same problem. I am looking for suggestions on routers that offer the functionality I want (Bonjour between wired and wireless connections). I suppose that one solution would be Apple's Airport Extreme Base Station but at 160€ it is ridiculously expensive. Any other options out there? And why is it so difficult to find in the technical characteristics if wired and wireless connections are on the same physical network?

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• Loss of network connectivity when playing video on Optoma HD180 projector

  - by Jeff Fohl

  Hi Folks - New to Super User, so I hope this question fits in with the guidelines. Very strange problem I am having, and I am at a loss as to how to continue troubleshooting this one. The basic problem is that when I attempt to watch streamed video on a particular display device (an Optoma HD180 projector), my network connectivity drops like a stone to barely measurable levels. This is my setup: I have a Dell H2C 730x running Windows 7 64bit. This particular computer has two ATI Radeon HD 4800 video cards. I have two Samsung 22" monitors connected to one card, and an Optoma HD180 digital projector connected to the other card via an HDMI cable. My internet connection is normally a reliable 6Mbps. The problem I am having occurs when I stream video (or even just browse the web) on the Optoma Projector. When I do this, my internet connection drops to practically zero (just a few kilobits per second). When I move the browser away from the projector, and over to one of my Samsung monitors, the internet connection comes right back. Note that the Optoma projector is on and enabled as a third monitor all this time. I can move the mouse around on the projector without triggering the problem. I tried pinging my router when I was playing a movie on one of the monitors, and I get a 1 millisecond response. However, when I have the movie playing on the Optoma projecter, pinging the router gives me response times in the hundreds of milliseconds, or times out completely. So, it clearly is something local to my machine - and not some sort of throttling occurring down the line. I would think that it is possibly something to do with the HDMI driver conflicting somehow with my network driver (which is a USB-based wireless connection). This one has me really stumped. Anyone have any ideas?

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