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  • Reduce "Metafile" memory usage?

    - by Jay Conrod
    My work computer (Windows 7 64-bit) spends a lot of time swapping memory when I switch between programs. This surprises me since I have 4 GB of RAM, and the programs I use aren't particularly RAM hungry (Outlook, Emacs, p4win, Firefox, various build tools). I downloaded RAMMap, and it shows over a gigabyte of memory used by "Metafile". From the Sysinternals blog: Metafile is part of the system cache and consists of NTFS metadata. NTFS metadata includes the MFT as well as the other various NTFS metadata files. ... In the MFT each file attribute record takes 1k and each file has at least one attribute record. Add to this the other NTFS metadata files and you can see why the Metafile category can grow quite large on servers with lots of files. So I understand what the "Metafile" data is... I work on large builds comprising hundreds of thousands of files (none are that big, but they add up to several gigabytes). My question is how can I reduce the amount of memory used by "Metafile"? I'm not actively using all those files at once, so why does Windows need to keep info in RAM? Restarting my machine every time I sync a new build is really annoying.

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  • 5.1 Surround Channels are Jumbled

    - by stickynips
    I had this exact setup working previously, but after a reformat it went screwy on me. I have an Onkyo A/V Receiver hooked up to my PC, via optical S/PDIF. Attached to the receiver is a 5.1 speaker setup (tested and working fine with my Xbox via the receiver). It seems to me that the audio channels are getting mixed up somehow between the PC and the receiver. I have a 5.1 test file which plays a sounds through each speaker individually. The channels are mixed as such: "Left Front" plays through my Right Front speaker "Center" plays through my Left Front speaker "Right Front" plays through my Center speaker "Left Rear" plays through my Subwoofer "Right Rear" plays through my Left Rear speaker I've tried downloading the latest Realtek HD Audio Drivers and the Realtek HD Audio Manager, but neither makes any difference. If there's a way I can manually rearrange the channels I believe it would fix the problem, but as far as I know this is impossible. edit: Sorry, I've forgotten some basic info. I'm running Windows 7 x64. The sound card is Realtek ALC892 embedded in a GIGABYTE GA-890GPA-UD3H AM3 motherboard.

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  • Windows Server 2012 Hyper-V very slow

    - by Matt Taylor
    I have been running several Hyper-V VMs on Windows Server 2008 R2 for the past couple of years and enjoying perfectly adequate performance for my testing/development/r&d environments. I'm a software developer so my hardware knowledge is basic however I built the rig using: •Gigabyte GA-X58A-UD3R Intel X58 (Socket 1366) DDR3 Motherboard •Intel Core i7 960 3.20GHz (Bloomfield) (Socket LGA1366) •24GB triple channel RAM The host OS is running on an OCZ SSD and all the VMs are running on a 2TB Marvell SATA3 RAID 0 array consisting of 2 Western Digital Caviar Black 7,200rpm drives. I have tested the speed of the 2TB drive and appear to be getting less than 3Mbs but it can adequately run a 4 VM farm including a DC, (SQL) database and IIS application servers. I recently upgraded the SSD on which the host runs to a 256GB OCZ Vertex 4 and took the opportunity to upgrade to Windows Server 2012 and installed the Hyper-V role. I tried importing one of my existing Windows Server 2008 R2 VMs (and converted it to .vhdx) plus I have tried creating a brand new Windows Server 2008 R2 VM but both are running extremely slowly and I can see nothing obvious using the host and guest Task Manager/Resource Monitor tools. In both cases the VM has 8GB RAM (fixed), 4 CPUs, fixed size HD (not expanding) and is using an external virtual network running on a separate NIC to the host. I have upgraded the BIOS to the latest available version and checked the virtualization settings. I have run out of "obvious" (to a developer) things to check/configure and my next option will be to re-install the host OS but before I do I would very much appreciate any advice from any experts out there. Thanks

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  • Computer Freezes with "Bugcheck 0" on Windows 7. How do I figure out why?

    - by George Stocker
    After about 10 minutes of running, my computer will hang, exhibiting the following symptoms: Both monitors act as if there is no image being sent to them (on, but blacked out) The CAPS Lock key on the keyboard will not respond. The computer appears to still be running: CPU Fan is whirring. When I reboot, Windows says "The previous shutdown was unexpected." I've enabled the 'don't automatically restart' on an error, and asked the computer to make a memory dump whenever it crashes, but it hasn't done either. The problem is that there's no bugcheck for me to go off of, so there's no way for me to determine what the cause is (I think). Here are my system specs: Intel Core 2 Duo E6750 Gigabyte P35C-DS3R w/ 4.00 GB (DDR2 Ram) Nvidia 8800 GT Windows 7 I've tried running the Windows Memory checker, but the system also freezes when using that after about 10 minutes as well. How can I diagnose the problem with no bugcheck and no ability to run a memory checker? Update Running Memtest86 also causes the computer to crash (looks like it doesn't make it through a full pass - it was only running for about 10 minutes when the PC stopped responding).

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  • ubuntu 9.10 installer doesn't recognize the hard drive

    - by dan
    I downloaded Ubuntu 9.10 x86_64 and am trying to install it on a fairly modern system with a Gigabyte GA-MA770-UD3 motherboard. Ubuntu 9.04 installed fine and still will when I stick that disc in, but 9.10 doesn't see my hard drive (western digital 250GB). If I boot from the disc, I can install gparted and it does recognize the drive, but when I try to start the install process from the live disc, Ubuntu again doesn't recognize the hard drive. I checked /var/log/messages and see this: Nov 12 17:28:08 ubuntu activate-dmraid: Serial ATA RAID disk(s) detected. If this was bad, boot with 'nodmraid'. Nov 12 17:28:08 ubuntu activate-dmraid: Enabling dmraid support Nov 12 17:28:08 ubuntu activate-dmraid: ERROR: either the required RAID set not found or more options required. Nov 12 17:28:08 ubuntu activate-dmraid: ERROR: either the required RAID set not found or more options required. Nov 12 17:28:08 ubuntu activate-dmraid: ERROR: either the required RAID set not found or more options required. Nov 12 17:28:08 ubuntu activate-dmraid: no raid sets and with names: "nvidia_ciiajheb-0" Nov 12 17:28:08 ubuntu activate-dmraid: ERROR: either the required RAID set not found or more options required. I checked my BIOS, SATA is enabled and is set to IDE mode, so there shouldn't be software RAID, but nonetheless, I added nodmraid to the boot line and tried again. It still doesn't recognize the drive. I checked /var/log/messages again and now see this: Nov 12 17:49:38 ubuntu activate-dmraid: Serial ATA RAID disk(s) detected. If this was boad, boot with 'nodmraid'. Nov 12 17:49:38 ubuntu activate-dmraid: Enabling dmraid support Nov 12 17:49:38 ubuntu activate-dmraid: WARNING: dmraid disabled by boot option Nov 12 17:49:38 ubuntu activate-dmraid: WARNING: dmraid disabled by boot option Any ideas on things to try? I've tried all of the various BIOS settings for SATA. IDE,RAID, etc. Nothing seems to work.

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  • Video card not detected in POST on initial boot.

    - by Jeff M
    I have a minor problem with my desktop computer after cleaning it out for dust. When I first boot up the computer, the video card does not get detected so I can't see anything. In POST, I'm getting the "can't detect video card" beeps. The boot sequence continues normally, just without video. However, if I restart it (using the restart button) anytime after POST, it would boot up normally. I have no reason to think that the motherboard, video card or PSU got damaged in the process. It was working fine before, works fine after resetting. Took all the necessary precautions while cleaning. On the initial boot, I can hear the video card's fan power up but immediately power down and try again one more time only to fail. After the beep, resetting gets everything running and sounding normally. I've reseated the card a couple of times and reset the BIOS but doesn't seem to help. I'm hoping I won't have to take it out and remove and reinstall everything again. Does anyone recognize these symptoms to know exactly what the problem is? My guess is that the video card isn't getting enough juice initially to be running stable to be detected. I just don't know what I did (or didn't do) to get it to be in this state. It's not a high priority thing for me at the moment, just means I have to always reset it after initially turning it on but will eventually remove everything and reinstall if it comes to that. I don't think the specs are relevant here but just in case, here's the relevant stuff: Motherboard: Gigabyte P35-DS3P Video: EVGA GeForce 8600 GTS PSU: Antec True Power Trio 650W Built ~2 years ago, still running well

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  • Windows 7 starts getting sluggish over a few days

    - by munrobasher
    Myself and the other developer are running Windows 7 Enterprise 64 bit with 8GB RAM on different Gigabyte motherboards with Quad core Intel CPUs. Most of the time, it runs like a dream. We use VMware workstation a lot (hence the 8GB) and that works well. Except... now and then, after the PCs have been on for a few days, the whole system starts getting really sluggish doing certain tasks. The other's developer's system is far worse than mine with it taking up to a minute to launch IE. Today, mine has gone sluggish but nowhere near as bad. For example, normally when I click on a new tab in IE, it's instant. Today, there's an obvious delay. Right-clicking in this window to trigger iSpell is normally instant, right now it takes about five seconds. I've got resource monitor open on my second monitor and when I did that right-click, there was no obvious peak in CPU, disk or memory. A reboot does fix it so it does sound like a resource issue but haven't a clue what might be to blame. The two computers have similarities (same spec) but also differences (like motherboard, RAM & CPU models). So I guess the question is, any pointers on diagnosing why a PC is sluggish? What could cause such a right-click slow down in IE for example? It sounds like such a simple operation. NOTE: whilst typing this message alone, it was fine performance wise. I can click around the page no problem but right-click still is noticeable slow. Will reboot over lunch... Cheers, Rob.

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  • Wireless keeps shutting off in Windows 7

    - by Nathan Adams
    I have Windows 7 Ultimate 32bit installed on a Dell Latitude XT Tablet and for the life of me I can't figure out this really weird problem. The symptom is that the Wireless will disconnect from the AP and if I tell it to scan again, it says there are no APs in the area. I do have another wireless card in the laptop and if I disable the first one and enable the second, I am able to get onto the wireless however if I want to use the first card again I have to restart. I tried enabling/disabling the device, nothing will kick start the wireless again in the first card without a restart. I even tried different drivers. So, it seems it is random but it does occur more often when there is increased network activity (ie downloading a large file). The laptop doesn't seem to be overheating. I have tried the following: Under "Change Advanced Power Settings" for the current power profile, I set the "Wireless Adapter settings" to "Maximum Performance". Under device manger, I went to the card in question, and went to the advanced tab and set the "Power Saving mode" to "MAX_PSP" Both cards I have seem to exhibit the behavior after awhile. Both models of those cards are: Dell Wireless 1505 Draft 802.11n WLAN Mini-Card Gigabyte GN-WS30N 802.11n mini WLAN Card Has anyone have any ideas or ran into this before?

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  • Windows 7 Install: No drives were found

    - by Albert Bori
    I was building a computer for my wife with an older SATA hard drive that I had lying around, and when attempting to do a new install of Windows 7 on it, the installer says: "No drives were found. Click Load Driver to provide a mass storage driver for installation." I ran the diskpart command: list volume, and it showed up as "Raw". So, I formatted it to NTFS and then it showed up as a healthy drive in diskpart. I also ran check disk on it with no errors. Windows 7 installer STILL can't find the drive. As far as BIOS settings, I have tried "Native IDE", AHCI, and Both AHCI/IDE mode (SATA slots 0-2 AHCI, 3-4 IDE). I tried all combinations... still "no drives were found". At this point, I'm just scratching my head. Using the installation dos window, I can see and talk to the drive just fine, but the installer just doesn't see it at all. I've even written folders and files to the drive, and it still "can't be seen". Any help would be great. Items of interest: Motherboard model: Gigabyte GA-A75M-UD2H - BIOS Version F5 (latest) Hard drive model: 80GB Seagate Barracuda 7200.7 ST380817AS (no other drives) Installing Windows 7 using a FAT32 formatted USB Drive, which I've used for other installs

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  • which grabber is good enough to get 1000fps?

    - by user261002
    I have two framegrabber with a fast camera (1800+ fps). can anybody who understand the hardware, explain to me which of the following grabbers can help me more to grab 1000fps ? here are the the features of the two grabbers : Inspecta-5 Full Camera Link® Version: · Support for line scan and area cameras. · Video data rate of up to 660 Mbytes/sec. · PCI – X bus interface for 64 Bit data width and 66 MHz clock frequency. · PCI bus interface for 32 Bit data width and 33 MHz clock frequency. · 2 Gigabyte Onboard Memory for fast video streams. · Four opt coupled input- output ports for external trigger and encoder signals. · 528 Mbytes/sec. maximum data rate on the PCI–X Bus. · SDK for Windows 2000/XP SILICONSOFTWARE V-Series Camera Link : “microEnable IV VD4-CL” · Camera Pixel Clock Support 85 MHz · Area Scan Cameras 32k * 64k max. image size · Line Scan Cameras 64k max. image width · Acquisition Buffer: 512 MB DDR-RAM · Sustainable Transfer Rate (max.) 850 MBytes/sec. · microEnable SDK for Windows XP/Vista/ 7/ Linux

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  • Hard Drive Compatibility with Motherboard

    - by Wesley
    Here are the current specs to put things in context: ECS P4VXASD2+ V5.0 Intel Pentium 4 Northwood 2.8 GHz 2x 512MB PC2100 DDR266 SDRAM Maxtor DiamondMax 10 250 GB PATA (IDE) HDD Gigabyte 52x CD-ROM NVIDIA TNT2 Pro 16 MB OKIA 300W ATX PSU USB bracket Modem PCI Before, I actually had a 300 GB hard drive installed. However, I read the FAQ for the motherboard and discovered that a maximum of 250 GB hard drive was supported. So I ended up finding the one listed above and put that in. However, upon booting up, I reset the BIOS to defaults and auto-detected all the drives installed. The 250 GB came up as something like 251.0 GB. I didn't think much about it until I tried to boot up a Windows XP installation disc. It booted up successfully and run for about a minute before the computer randomly rebooted. I've made sure that all the jumpers and settings are correct and everything has been installed correctly. I've tried running it without the addons and one stick of RAM but still the same thing. What else could be causing this problem?

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  • Computer does not boot, often

    - by tam
    I've ran into a issue with my computer that it does no longer reach POST, but simply powers on for a fraction of a second and powers off. But this is not always, some times it boots just normally and it works as it should, no issues with not enough power or anything. But as soon as I turn it of, I can not turn it back on, but then again at some random point it just powers up again, and resumes normal operation. If I disconnect the 8pin ATX connector from the motherboard, it powers up, fans and disks spinning normally until I power it off again. So this problem only happens when ATX is connected, which seems odd, I normally always saw this kind of an error if ATX was not connected, but here it's the exact opposite. It also does not emit any sound on the buzzer, except the normal beep, when it powers up normally. I have already tried: Remove graphics card Remove one and/or all RAM sticks Disconnect everything non-essential, even hard drives Clear CMOS I have not yet tried to remove all components and tried to boot everything outside of the case, because I did not have the time to disassemble and bleed the water loop. However, I can confirm that nothing is stuck underneath the motherboard, not is any of those brass raisers touching the board where it should not. Specs: Gigabyte GA-970A-UD3 AMD FX6300 ATI HD7850 I think this should be enough for this issue.

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  • Graphics Artifacts/ Texture Flickering

    - by Cerin
    Hey I been having some problems with artifacts in games. Sometimes textures flicker. Artifacts of various shapes and sizes show up usually after a couple games of dota 2. I built my computer almost exactly one month ago and it has been doing this pretty much from the start except before the artifacts I believe just flashed on screen fast enough to where I couldn't tell what it was but I still noticed. In dota I've seen green triangular artifacts among other things. I've tried running Furmark for a while but even though it pushes the gpu much harder than dota 2, there are still no artifacts. It maxes in furmark at about 60C and running every game I've tried on it at 40C. CPU and system temp don't usually get higher than 40C either. These are my system specs: Gigabyte Z68 Intel Motherboard 16 GB Gskill Ripjaws SDRAM DDR3 Sapphire Radeon HD 7770 GHz edition Intel Core i5-2500k (with built in gpu) Corsair 750 Watt PSU windows 7-64 bit I have the latest drivers for everything. What should I do about this? Try to RMA my graphics card? Are there other things that could be causing this?

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  • Windows 7 Blank Screen on Boot / Login

    - by Greg
    I have a new system that's having a few problems... sometimes (seems to be when the PC is cold, i.e. has been switched off for a while, though that could be my imagination) I get a blank blue screen when I boot up. The system boots normally and auto-logs-in. The desktop loads and I'm even able to launch applications, but then everything disappears and the screen goes to the default windows desktop blue colour (not the desktop image, just a plain blue with no mouse cursor). At this point the machine completely locks up - I'm unable to even toggle Num Lock and have to hold in the power button for 5 seconds to kill it. Interestingly if I manage to launch some applications before it goes blank, they will usually crash... sometimes explorer.exe will crash too. When I reboot, the system is fine and stable. I've installed the latest graphics drivers and run memtest86+ for 6 passes (and counting) with no errors. The system specs are: CPU: Intel I7 2.66 @ 3.4GHz RAM: 6GB (3 * 2GB DDR3) HDD: 128GB Crucial M225 SSD Motherboard: Gigabyte EX58-UD3R Gfx: ATI Radeon Sapphire 5870 1GB Note: There are a few similar questions but I haven't found one that matches my symptoms

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  • Unusable network, packet losses between router and NIC

    - by KáGé
    I have this setup: Gigabyte P35-DS3P motherboard Asus NX1101 PCI network card (the one on the motherboard got fried a few years ago by a power surge) Asus RT-N16 router Windows 7 x64 I think the other specs are irrelevant here, but I'll post them if you say so. Until a week ago everything was fine, but then my network became unusable: websites start loading but timeout before anything would come through (true for the web interface of the router as well), I can't reach the computer from my notebook and Windows' ping utility measures a ~50% packet loss between the computer and the router. Pinging localhost is good. The router works completely fine when wired to my notebook. I also tested different ports on the router, different cables, different router and connecting directly to the modem, but it's still the same. Sometimes it works for a few minutes right after turning on the machine, but then it becomes crap again, but mostly it's useless from the start. I've tried updating the firmware on the router, updating the driver for the network card (after which I started getting BSoDs in every 15 minutes), reinstalling Windows, swapping to Fedora 15 but none of them changed anything. Does this mean that the network card is dying, or could it be something else? If it's the card, what model do you recommend as a replacement? (Could be PCI or PCI-Ex x1) Thanks for your help.

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  • Intel Ethernet Bottlenecking Internet?

    - by Donald Darma
    I'm having trouble with my internet speeds. So I just recent build a pc and everything is fine. I installed the Intel drivers and connected to the internet. It connects but I'm only half the speed I should be getting. My normal speed is 20mbps but speedtest.net is only showing 10. It can't be my ISP (which is TWC if anyone is asking) because my other devices like my laptop and my smartphone are showing 20 down. Heres my system: CPU: i5 4430 HSF: Stock cooler Mobo: Gigabyte Z87MX-D3H GPU: x2 MSI R7950-3GD5/OC BE RAM: Crucial Ballistix Tactical Tracer 8GB dual channel PSU: Silencer High Performance Power Supply 750 Watt 80+ (It's a subdivision of OCZ) HDD: Seagate Barracuda 7200RPM 3TB SSD: Samsung 840 Evo 120 GB Case: Corsair Obsidian 350D Edit: I am using the stock adapter that is on the motherboard. I know for a fact that the cable is good because I used it on my laptop and it ran fine. Its a CAT5E cable. I also ran IPERF and its giving me the same results, 10 mbps.

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  • Troubleshooting an overheating CPU

    - by Jeff Fry
    I & my father just recently put together a new PC. Specs below. From the very beginning, on boot it will often complain that the CPU is too hot. If I sit in BIOS and watch the CPU, it'll drop back down from red to blue (<72C), at which point I've tended to just boot into Windows...and haven't had any problems. In fact, I've played a couple hours straight of Skyrim at max settings, and not had any visible issues. That said, I've occasionally walked away & come back to find that it's crashed. Yesterday, it crashed (while idle) twice in 12 hours, which shifted the balance from busy-with-life to nervous-I'm-about-to-melt-something. I just installed Core Temp which is showing my 4 cores fluxuating between 70-98C. I'm guessing at this point that the CPU fan may be incorrectly installed or defective. My first thought is to either (a) add water cooling (which the case supports) and / or (b) replace the CPU fan with an after-market one. That said, I'm very open to suggestions. A note, while I certainly don't want to burn money here, I have a baby coming any day now and am still unpacking from a recent move so if I have a choice between an option that costs money and another that takes a while...I'll happily spend a bit extra. Side question: Should I be nervous to even have this on at this point? Let me know if there's something useful I could add to my report. Otherwise, I'm looking forward to your suggestions! Thanks. CPU Intel i7-2600 CPU w/ stock fan Other HW ASUS P8Z68-V Pro motherboard 64G SSD boot drive 4 older SATA HDs GIGABYTE ATI Radeon HD6950 1 GB DDR5 8G Kingston T1 Series RAM Corsair 650W Gold Certified power supply Antec P280 case

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  • Codecs, Premiere Pro & Quicktime: Import or Play Error

    - by Nchpmn
    Original Question I've been using a FS-H200 (not the Pro variant) recorder with a JVC ProHD camera. I have been shooting with the DTE FORMAT to Quicktime (.mov). I copied the files to an external hard drive and am now trying to edit. The files will play back in VLC, as they would be expected to. However they will not import into Adobe Premiere CS5.5, instead giving an error: Unsupported format or damaged file. Quicktime gives the following error when attempting to play the files: Error -2002: a bad public movie atom was found in the movie (Filename) To try and fix this, I have installed the following codec packs: K-Lite Codec Pack 64-bit Full (version 5.9, latest) K-Lite Codec Pack 32-bit Full (version 8.4, latest) MainConcept Codec Suite (Broadcast) v5.1 for Adobe CS5 Reinstalled Quicktime with new download from Apple The same errors and problems still exist. From this I can assume that there is an issue with Quicktime and that is what Premiere is using as an encoder/decoder for the codec. Is there any way to fix this? From looking at the "Codec Information" from VLC: Stream 0 Type: Video Codec: MPEG-1/2 (mpgv) Language: English Resolution: 1280 x 720 Frame Rate: 25 Stream 1 Type: Audio Codec: PCM S16 BE (twos) Language: English Channels: Stereo Sample Rate: 48000 Hz Bits per sample: 16 Other computer specs: Windows 7 Professional 64-bit (SP1) Gigabyte Z68X-UD3-B3 Intel i7-2600K 16GB DDR3 2TB WD 7200RPM SATA 6Gb/s LaCie d2 Quadra 2TB v3 7200RPM (External HDD) NVIDIA GeForce GTX 560 Ti Golden Sample Updates 2012-03-11 @ 2050 AEDT MPEG Steamclip doesn't recognise, play or convert the footage. File open error: unrecognised file type. [Open Anyway] File open error: can't find video or audio tracks. 2012-03-24 @ 1920 AEDT Had to transcode the footage. :(

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  • Performance decrease in every game and application

    - by Márk Vincze
    When I start a game, initially it runs smoothly, but after a couple of minutes, the performance gradually decreases to the point of being unplayable (1-2 FPS). The sound also starts to lag at this point. This does not happen every time I start my PC, usually exiting the game, rebooting, then starting the game again solves the problem, and I can play with perfect FPS for as long as I want. I could not find any deterministic reason when this happens and when doesn't. It happens in every game I tried (SWTOR, Diablo 3, Skyrim), and not even games, but simple applications like a browser or the Control Panel can get unusably slow. This is a brand new PC I bought three months ago, and this problem occurs since the first day I've been using it. Could you provide any advice how to further diagnose the problem? I tried to reinstall Windows, and tried different video card drivers, but it did not help. It would be important to know whether this is a hardware or software problem, because I can use the warranty if it is a hardware issue. (I did not want to return the PC yet, because I can't reproduce the issue deterministically.) Spec of the pc: Motherboard: ASROCK H61M-HVS CPU: INTEL Core i3-2120 3.30GHz 1155 BOX Memory: KINGMAX 4096MB DDR3 1333MHz KIT Video card: GIGABYTE GV-R685OC-1GD HD6850 1GB GDDR5 PCIE HDD: SEAGATE 500GB Barracuda 7200rpm 16MB SATA3 ST500DM002 I am using Windows 7 64 bit. Thanks a lot in advance!

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  • Light Blue Monitor Screen

    - by SixfootJames
    I have seen this before with an older monitor that over time, the monitor colours change to a light blue haze. This has started happening with an older monitor of mine now (A GigaByte Monitor) and although none of the pins are bent and it's a brand new machine, there is no reason, other than aging that it should show the light blue screen. Perhaps it is just time for a new monitor, but if there is a way of saving it still. I would appreciate the insight. Perhaps there is something I have not tried, perhaps it has something to do with the new machine instead of the monitor? I had the monitor plugged into two other machines over the weekend and didn't have this problem. So I am not quite sure what to make of it. Many thanks! EDIT: I must also add that when I plugged the monitor into the older machines, I had the VGA converter attached to the end of the newer DVI output. Which, when plugged into the newer PC, I don't need of course.

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  • Can you help me understand my SATA/RAID options?

    - by andrz_001
    I've a gigabyte GA-M720-US3 motherboard. Recently, I noticed the following during boot: IDE channel 0 Master (none) IDE channel 0 Slave (none) IDE channel 2 Master (my hdd) IDE channel 2 Slave (my dvd drive) IDE channel 3 Master (none) IDE channel 3 Slave (none) Of course, the same information is contained in the BIOS/CMOS. The HDD is connected to the mobo via a SATA(2?) cable at the port(?) labeled SATA2_0. The DVD drive is connected by a similar cable at SATA2_1. Why doesn't the information displayed during the boot and in BIOS reflect how I plugged the cables in? I mean, why "none" for channel 0 when there is something in SATA2_0. (or is that serious naivete on my part!?) Where's Channel 1 master and slave? Since these are SATA cables and not the IDE ribbons from a time ago, why the whole master/slave declaration during boot and in BIOS? Should my BIOS reflect the fact that these are SATA cables? I mean, in BIOS, should the "Onchip SATA mode IDE" be set to RAID or AHCI instead of IDE? Any replies, answers, suggestions, links, tips will be much appreciated. Thank you in advance!

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  • Computer won't start after installing new video card

    - by Vercas
    So, 1 year and 340 days ago I bought a desktop computer. Since then, it has served me well. But lately, I wanted an upgrade, so I bought a new video card. I documented myself about the compatibility, and it is okay. So I opened the case, cleaned up that... dust elemental living inside of it. Unscrewed the plastic thingie on the outside to unscrew the old video card. Because of the stupid arrangement of the ports, I had to unscrew the motherboard to unplug it. So I unscrewed it, removed the old card, put in the new one, moved the motherboard back, screwed it back in, screwed the video card on the holder... thingie, and screwed the plastic thingie back in. Everything went smoothly, nothing had to be forced in/out. I connected the external power supply, closed the computer case, put the tower back in it's place and all the cables back in. When I pressed the power button, the LED turned... some color I can't distinguish. It stayed that way for a second, and then it went off. I tried a bunch of things, including permuting the external power supply arrangement (1 connection, 2 connections and no connections), with no success. And here are some of the specifications: Motherboard manufacturer: Asrock Processor: AMD Athlon II X2 3.0 GHz RAM: 2 x 2GB (had only 1 initially, bought the second plate a bit later) OLD video card: AMD Radeon HD 5450 NEW video card: Gigabyte nVidia GeForce GTX 650 GPU, 1GB GDDR5 128bit PCI-E, Dual-link DVI-Dx2 / HDMI / D-Sub Power supply: 450W + all the requirements I managed to find on the internet are met (+12V 18A or something) More specific information is stored... On that computer. If required, I may open the case again and read the stickers to find more specific information. I can also provide photos if necessary. Any ideas? Suggestions? Something? :|

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  • Western Digital HDD disappears and reappears in BIOS

    - by tbkn23
    I know many people asked about similar problems, but I have a very specific case where I can't understand what's going on... I have a 3TB Western Digital Caviar Green disk connected in my Desktop, that also has a seagate 1.5TB disk and 2 SSD drives (OCZ and Sandisk). After working fine for quite some time (probably more than a year), suddenly my Caviar Green drive disappeared from windows. I checked the BIOS, and it wasn't there either. I opened my PC, played with the connectors, power, etc, but nothing helped. Even tried switching connectors with those of the 1.5TB disk, and nothing changed, the 1.5TB seagate was there, but the 3TB WD was not. Ok, now for the strange part. I have another desktop at home, so I took out my 3TB drive, connected it there, and it worked fine! I copied the most important files out of it, and then made another attempt in the original desktop. Surprise! It now appeared in the BIOS and worked fine! I even ran the SMART test with the WD tools and it said everything was intact. It doesn't end here. After leaving it overnight in the original desktop, it disappeared again in the morning. I repeated the entire process, connecting it to the second desktop, and there it is again working fine. Now for my question... Whats going on? The disk seems to be appearing on/off in my original Desktop, while other drives there work fine. SMART test says the disk is fine. Any ideas? Is the disk defective and should be replaced? Or maybe there's a problem with the controller in the desktop? I'm using a Gigabyte GA-880GA-UD3H motherboard and tried connecting the drive to both bridges (SATA2 and SATA3 bridges). Thanks EDIT: Power options are set never to turn off hard drives:

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  • PC in POST loop

    - by Antony Scott
    Hi, I have a custom built PC using a Gigabyte GA-EP35-DS3P motherboard with a Q6600 CPU. For the last 2 days it has got itself stuck into a POST loop. Saying that, I don't think it actually got in to the BIOS. It repeatedly lit up the LEDs and then not much more. Sometimes I could see the CPU fan twitch. Today I re-seated the DIMMs and it powered up straight away. Could this be a sign of an impending hardware failure? The PC is hooked up to a UPS, so I don't think it's a power spike or anything like that, as I have 2 other PCs on the same UPS and they're both fine. Yesterday, the first time this happened, I was getting a message which I think said "Scanning BIOS image on hard drive". I've been building and using PCs for well over 25 years and that's a new one on me! I don't think it's an over heating problem, as when the PC does finally boot up the CPU is running at 35-40C. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

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  • Nvidia RAID 1 Problem. Degraded drives...

    - by Vedat Kursun
    I had a RAID 1 on my system which has a Gigabyte GA 8N SLI motherboard with a Nvidia chipset.(Nvidia Raid IDE ROM BIOS 4.84) When the system was working probably there used to be an icon on the system try which showed my two RAID disks. Bu after my friend accidentally clicked on the "Remove drive safely" icon while trying to disconnect her USB, I noticed that the RAID system wasn't working. After a reboot there was suddenly a failure message during boot screen. When I enter the Nvidia RAID setup utility (F10) I can see that both drives are degraded and that won't change even if I get into them and press R for Rebuild. Other options are only Delete and Exit. When I boot to Windows (XP Pro 32 Bit) I can see both my disks with the same data on each of them but my RAID 1 is broken. It's a relief to see that at least my RAID 1 was active but it's annoying not being able to rebuild it. Is there a way where I can rebuild my RAID 1 without having to delete the array and build it again? Cause I don't want to backup 400 Gigs of data and then recopy it to my drives... (Disks 2 x Seagate ST3500418 AS SATA Drives)

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