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• How do I set up dual monitors on Kubuntu 10.04 using the latest nVidia drivers with a 9800M video ca

  - by NoCatharsis

  I'm a Linux newb so please try to keep the lingo low-key. I installed the latest nVidia drivers on my laptop using the 9800M card. The laptop is a Gateway P-7805u and I'm connected to the second monitor using VGA. Also, before installing the nVidia drivers (and just using the basic drivers included with Kubuntu 10.04), basic dual monitor support worked, except I could not enable compositing features for some reason. So I thought the proprietary drivers would fix this. Several issues have arisen since installation: 1) I've clicked through all of the display settings to activate the second screen with absolutely no change. 2) When I try to apply settings and Save Configuration as the nVidia help suggests, I am told that I cannot save to the X.conf file. I assume this is due to innate permissions on my user settings, which I have no idea how to properly configure. 3) I have no idea where to go from here, as most of the fixes I found online involve Linux syntax and verbiage, to which I'm totally clueless after spending over half my life with Windows.

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• Asus PCE-N53 11n N600 PCI-E Adapter on 3.x kernel

  - by CITguy

  Problem ASUS PCE-N53 wireless NIC doesn't work for latest versions of the linux kernel. How do I get it working on my system? (Note: I'm posting the answer I've found for others to use.) Installing Driver for Linux 3.x Kernel ASUS provides Linux drivers from their website, but it mentions that the driver supports "Linux Kernel 2.6.x", so it won't work without a some modifications to the driver code. Fortunately, an archlinux forum mentions similar problems and one user was able to create a patch for kernel 3.8.x that seems to work with kernel 3.11.x. Here's how I got it working: Prerequisites Ubuntu: sudo apt-get install build-essential Arch: sudo pacman -S base-devel Steps: 1. Download the driver from the ASUS website The download can be found under "Support Drivers & Tools". 2. Unzip the contents of the downloaded file cd into the new directory 3. Patch The arch forum mentions a 3.8 patch file that needs to be downloaded. Download rt5592sta_fix_64bit_3.8.patch to the current directory. tar -xvf {driver_source.tar.gz} cd into the directory created in previous step patch -p1 < ../rt5592sta_fix_64bit_3.8.patch 4. Compile NOTE: You will need to use sudo for it to compile properly. sudo make sudo make install sudo modprobe rt5592sta 5. Enjoy If all is well, you should now have a working card.

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• Building vs buying a server for an academic lab [closed]

  - by Roy

  I'm looking for advice on the classic build vs buy question. We need a new linux server to run Matlab computation on in our lab (academic). Matlab parallel computing toolbox licence allows up to 12 local workers so we are aiming at a 12 core server with 4GB memory per core (total of 48gb). The system will have an SSD for the OS and a raid-5 (4x2tb) for data. I looked around and found a (relatively) cheap vendor, Silicon Mechanics, that offers a system to our liking (specs below) for $6732. However, buying the components from newegg cost only $4464! The difference is $2268 which is 50% of the base cost. If buying from a company can be thought of as a sort of insurance, basically my premiums are of 50% of the base cost which to me sounds like a lot. Of course any downtime is bad, but the work is not "mission critical", i.e. if it takes a few days to fix it when it breaks its no the end of the world. If it takes weeks to months then its a problem. If it breaks 2-3 times in 3 years, not too bad. If it breaks every month not good. In term of build experience, I set up a linux cluster in grad school (from existing computers) and I build my home pcs but I never built a server before. The server components I'm thinking about: 1 x SUPERMICRO SYS-7046T-6F 4U Tower Server Barebone Dual LGA 1366 Intel 5520 DDR3 1333/1066/800 ($1,050) 12 x Kingston 4GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10600) ECC Unbuffered Server Memory ($420) 2 x Intel Xeon E5645 Westmere-EP 2.4GHz LGA 1366 80W Six-Core ($1,116) 4 x Seagate Constellation ES 2TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" ($1,040) 1 x SAMSUNG Internal DVD Writer Black SATA ($20) 1 x Intel 520 Series 2.5" 180GB SATA III MLC SSD $300 1 x LSI LSI00281 PCI-Express 2.0 x8 MD2 Low profile SATA / SAS MegaRAID SAS 9260CV-4i Controller Card, $695

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• Windows 7: Wi-Fi connection drops intermittently - only returns after "Troubleshoot connection" resets the adapter

  - by sleske

  On our laptop (running Windows 7) the Wi-Fi connection drops intermittently. Symptoms: Connectivity is suddenly lost, and the "signal strenght" indicator in the tray shows zero strength and a yellow "star" symbol. What happens then: The problem does not resolve itself by just waiting. If I click on the tray icon, the "Windows network diagnostics" wizard pops up and tells me that there is a networking problem (duh). If I click on the "repair" button (not sure about the wording), the wizard works for a while, then reports that it has reset the network adapter. Then Wi-Fi works again. While the above procedure has worked every time so far, it is very annoying. It takes 10-20s to repair the connection, and in the meantime downloads, video streams etc. may have been aborted. Some more details: The problem occurs without any apparent regularity, but usually a few minutes after powerup (though not every time). It happens frequently enough to be annoying. It is unlikely to be a router problem - another laptop running at the same time usually has no Wi-Fi problems. I am at a loss about what to try to troubleshoot this. Any ideas? Computer: Acer Aspire 7739Z. Wi-Fi card: Atheros AR5B125

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• A router that supports connecting with 2 different wifi networks

  - by Allan Deamon

  I Have the following setup in one place: We have a small local ISP through wireless. I have a external parabolic antenna, connected to a external usb wifi radio, connected through USB to a desktop old PC. The pc connects do the ISP wiki network, then do a Dial Up (PPPoE) connection through the this wifi setup. This will expand with others mobiles devices to be used. When I need, I take my home wireless router and connect though Ethernet in the PC, which is shares the internet. The problem is that the PC must be always ON and working. I would like to buy a wireless router which could be an AP to the mobile devices, notebooks, etc, as also could connect to the ISP Wifi/PPPoE network. So, this device must: Have one radio with detachable antenna to connect to the external antenna. It must connect as client to a network and then dial up the PPP Have another radio serving as AP (infrastructure) to the local place This can't be very expensive. I found a candidate: ( http://www.tp-link.com/en/products/details/?categoryid=1682&model=TL-WR2543ND ) It have 3 deatachable antennas, working with dual band. Officially, his firmware doesn't support it. My supposition: If internally there is 3 or 2 distinct wlan ports (like wlan0, wlan1), and there is support, i could use a OpenWRT, DD-WRT or Tomato to make this works. It also have 1 USB port, which I cold use to connect my actual USB Wifi card on it instead to the old PC. Another alternative, is a router that can do this out of box, with the original firmware. But I don't think this is a easy thing to find.

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• Nvidia GTX 660m crashes games

  - by dcap

  I just recently bought a Lenovo y580 with both HD intel graphics and an Nvidia GTX 660m. It works great except for one thing: playing games. Every time I load a game, either with Steam or Games for Windows Live, games will end up crashing. I've already talked with lenovo tech support and they couldn't help other than send my new laptop for repair which would take 7 days. So before I do that I thought I'd ask around. These are the games I've tested and what happens when they load: Civilization V: Game loads fine but once it gets loaded to the game, there's noticeable "tearing" popping up and certain things flash. Within a minute of this, the game crashes. Does the same thing regardless if Vsync is on or off. Total War Shogun2: Game gets to the menu screen. The background of the menu screen shows what is expected - slideshow of in-game environments rendered on high settings (this is expected). However, within 2 seconds of the menu loading up it crashes. Age of Empires 3 (Non-steam): This game is several years old so it should work on this brand new laptop fine. However the results are similar to that of Civilization V. Noticeable "Tearing" and after a few seconds it'll freeze/crash. I've done tests on all these games with both the latest stable Nvidia driver 285 as well as the nightly build 307. In addition, Nvidia control panel is set on using the dedicated graphics card for all programs. So is there anything I can do to fix this or will I have to send it back for a week to tech support?

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• How do I prevent a tar pipe from causing swapping?

  - by Jeff Shattock

  I have a rather large filesystem that I need to transfer from one Linux server to another. I figured the best way to do this was via a tar/netcat pipe arrangment, something like tar c . | pv | nc blah blah blah And it works great, the network stays fairly saturated, life is good. Until the source machine starts swapping. The files are on a raid on the source system, so the read speed is much faster than the write speed on the other end. Since the dest machine hasnt picked up the data yet, the source machine needs to stick it somewhere, so into RAM it goes, until there is no more free RAM. It then starts swapping, which is horribly painful since that machine has its OS installed on a somewhat slow CF card. Both machines have 4GB of physical ram, 64 bit Ubuntu 9.04 server. GigE link between them. How do I prevent this swapping? Can I put a "speed-limit" on the tar or netcat process so that the transfer speed doesn't overwhelm the write throughput on the destination end? The man pages didn't list anything, but there might be something I'm overlooking.

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• Problem mirroring two monitors with different resolution

  - by quad

  Hello I am trying to put two monitors in mirror mode (Windows 7 Professional) with Ultramon 3.1.0. The two monitors: Main monitor: 24" Asus. 1680x1050 resolution (16/10). Secondary monitor: 19" LG. 1280x1024 resolution. The graphic card is a Nvidia GeForce 8600 GT. I have installed the Ultramon 3.1.0 and I have created a mirror, with the "stretch mirror image to fill monitor" and the "disable video overlays and 3D acceleration". When I start the mirroring, there are two zones in the lateral edges that are not displayed in the second monitor. I think this is because the width of the main monitor is 1680 px. and the width of the secondary monitor is 1280 px., but I have indicated "stretch mirror image to fill monitor" in the options. The same occurs in the top and the bottom edges, but the diference is minimal (1050 vs 1024 pixels). I want the same image (distortioned in the secondary monitor if is neccesary), but I don't know what is failing. Someone can help me, please? I have read Mirrored monitors of different resolution. Cloned screen on monitors with different resolutions

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• Monitor flickers in native resolution.

  - by ptikobj

  With my new Samsung Syncmaster BX2450 I have the following problem: In Windows XP (SP2), all resolutions above 1440x900 have either strange pixel errors or an extreme flickering. It seems, that the effect worsens for higher resolutions. In special, I would like to run the monitor with its native resolution (1920x1080), however I can't watch longer than 5 seconds on the monitor because of the flickering... My Graphics Card is a Geforce FX 5200 with the most up-to-date driver (according to Nvidia.com: Forceware 175.19) and I'm having the monitor connected to its DVI-output. The strange thing is, under Ubuntu 10.04, all resolutions work just perfect, so the display must be alright. edit: seems to be a driver problem... if I use the proprietary NVIDIA drivers in Ubuntu, I have the same problem as in Windows. I would like to reformulate my question: Is there a modified/alternative Geforce FX 5200 driver (as there is in Ubuntu) for Windows that allows me to use 1920x1020 without problems ? I already tried the omega drivers: unfortunately, it still looks poor on the native resolution.

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• PC -> TV HDMI suddenly doesn't work, any other option does

  - by XSlicer

  So my parents wanted to connect their PC to their TV, so they bought a 10m (35 ft) cable. It all worked perfectly. Then my mom tripped over the cable, breaking it. She somehow got a free replacement, but at the same time some more expensive one from an uncle. Now the problem is that this suddenly doesn't work anymore (TV saying "Format not supported"). I've tried several other things to pinpoint the actual problem, but none brought me something conslusive: PC (hdmi) to TV doesn't work (both cables) PC (hdmi) to TV doesn't work (short cable) Laptop (hdmi) to TV work (same cables) BluRay (hdmi) to TV works (same cables) PC (hdmi) to monitor works (same cables) PC (DVI w/ adapter HDMI) to TV works (same cables) I've tried different ports, tried Linux, reinstalling drivers (the graphics card is internal using an i5 sandy bridge. Normally it's running Windows 7 Home Prem, the TV being a Philips 37PFL7605H). So basically, everything works, except that thing what we want. The only things I am thinking of is that the sound is interfering or that the HDMI-output is somehow broken. Or is it anything else? I'm kind of lost.

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• Multiple Settings for One Monitor

  - by Lynda

  I have my monitor set to the way I like it, it shows colors accurately and not overly bright (white doesn't blind me). However I edit photos for the web and this is great for my screen but I have noticed when looking at other screens my photos will at times looked washed out and not a good presentation. If I manually change my monitor settings to be brighter (and a few other tweaks) I can replicate the look of other monitors close enough to help prevent washed out/blown out photos. Here is the issue, I need to be able to change settings between the two fairly easily. To manually set my monitor for one then back to the other can be time consuming and a pain to set right every time. I would like to be able to preset certain settings (in software) that I can quickly switch between by pressing hotkeys or clicking shortcut on my desktop. I have an AMD video card and have attempted to use the AMD VISION Engine Control Center to add presets then tweak the settings for each. However when I switch between the presets the settings are the same. How do I build presets using the VISION Engine Control Center that actually works (maybe I misunderstand what it is saving?) or is there a way to do this in Windows 7 or free software that actually works decently for this purpose?

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• 1080p monitor: connected through VGA - perfect, HDMI - awful

  - by develroot

  When I connect my 23" monitor (1920x1080) to my pc through HDMI, I encourage some problems. It's not full screen That's it. There are ~1cm black borders on right and left side and ~0,5cm black borders on the top and the bottom of the monitor. That's pretty frustrating. I tried adjusting overscan, but I can't mannualy type the % of overscan that I need. I can only select between ex. 8 and 10% in AMD Vision Engine Control center, but what I need is 9%. Next, even if i select 10% and the image fits all the corners, but after log off all the settings are lost and I have to do it again and again. Text, images, everything looks blurry That surprised me a lot. Should'nt HDMI quality be better than VGA's one? When connected through HDMI, the text isn't readable. It's like a very low refresh rate, although i'm running at 60Hz. Also the text has something like little shadows, very very annoying. Are there any tips to get the same quality as with VGA, with HDMI ? (running on integrated ATI Radeon HD4200, which, appearently, is the best card I have ever seen in terms of integrated ones)

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• Display stretches 4:3 ratios; Adds scrolling to other ratios

  - by Matt

  I have a dual monitor setup. Normally, they both display at 1680x1050. They have been setup this way for about a year. I'm using Windows XP Professional 2003 x64 SP2. Today, out of nowhere, one of the monitors kicked back to a lower resolution. I was not playing with any configuration at the time.. in fact all I had done was close a window (maybe a browser). But the thing is that the resolution is still preserved partially by the fact that the screen will scroll when you move the mouse. So it's like looking through a 1024x768 window into a 1680x1050 world. The monitor itself does not appear to be damaged, because I also have it connected to my netbook (via KVM) and higher resolutions work fine. I tried uninstalling/reinstalling the drivers to no avail. System restore doesn't help either. I'm unsure of the exact ATI card I'm using.. Device Manager lists it as "Radeon X300/X550/X1050". There is no Catalyst Control Center software installed. I tried to install it, but there doesn't seem to be a way to install it by itself ... it forces you to install another driver, which breaks both of my displays, forcing me to go into safe mode and run system restore again. Any ideas? Thanks EDIT: After playing around more, I discovered that the "scrolling" behavior is only present for aspect ratios that are not 4:3. For 4:3 ratios, it just stretches out to fit the wide screen. My monitor's native ratio is 16:9 .. what could be causing it to think it needs to scroll?

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• Short, intermittent USB port timeouts

  - by jacobsee

  I have a data acquisition application controlled by a Windows PC. I am using an Intel Desktop Board DH67CL motherboard. This has 6 USB2 ports along with 2 of the new blue USB3 ports. The DAQ instrument connects via USB to the computer. Roughly once every day or two there is a short communication glitch with the USB that causes the instrument to disconnect briefly and then reconnect. This is logged so I know whenever it happens. Occasionally it will cause the data acquisition to stop. I've verified that the glitches will go away if I use the USB3 ports, or if I use a PCI add-on card with USB ports. So it seems that there is something going on with these built-in USB2 ports on this motherboard. I haven't yet had a chance to test with other motherboards. My question: what could be causing these glitches and how to get rid of them for this board, or is there a better motherboard to use? We have standardized on the DH67CL because it's inexpensive, has 3 PCI slots that we need, and is readily available. We don't need the power of higher-end server boards but reliability is important. Thanks. Update: This problem has been reproduced many times on different hardware, though we always use the same model of motherboard (DH67CL) and power supply (Antec EA-430D). I don't think the power requirements are very high but will check on that.

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• STOP 0x7b booting from iSCSI

  - by Michael

  Hi, I've a Windows 2008 SBS running. It boots of iSCSI. That setup worked for months until yesterday. I intended to reboot and gained a: STOP 0x0000007b INACCESSIBLE_BOOT_DEVICE and no idea why. My setup hasn't changed. No new controller, no new or changed iSCSI targets, no new Network Card or IP address changes. I had all Windows Updates on it. Last known good: same STOP. Allow unsigned drivers: same STOP. Safe mode (all variants): same STOP. Mount target from a client: works. Filesystem check fine. I booted of the SBS DVD but in computer repair options my target doesn't appear. When i choose setup the target appears. So, how can i diagnose what's going wrong? Any helpful tools? Any hints? Thanks in advance Michael

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• TCP dies on a Linux laptop

  - by Roman Cheplyaka

  Once in several days I have the following problem. My laptop (Debian GNU/Linux testing) suddenly becomes unable to work with TCP connections to the internet. The following things continue to work fine: UDP (DNS), ICMP (ping) — I get instant response TCP connections to other machines in the local network (e.g. I can ssh to a neighbour laptop) everything is ok for other machines in my LAN But when I try TCP connections from my laptop, they time out (no response to SYN packets). Here's a typical curl output: % curl -v google.com * About to connect() to google.com port 80 (#0) * Trying 173.194.39.105... * Connection timed out * Trying 173.194.39.110... * Connection timed out * Trying 173.194.39.97... * Connection timed out * Trying 173.194.39.102... * Timeout * Trying 173.194.39.98... * Timeout * Trying 173.194.39.96... * Timeout * Trying 173.194.39.103... * Timeout * Trying 173.194.39.99... * Timeout * Trying 173.194.39.101... * Timeout * Trying 173.194.39.104... * Timeout * Trying 173.194.39.100... * Timeout * Trying 2a00:1450:400d:803::1009... * Failed to connect to 2a00:1450:400d:803::1009: Network is unreachable * Success * couldn't connect to host * Closing connection #0 curl: (7) Failed to connect to 2a00:1450:400d:803::1009: Network is unreachable Restarting the connection and/or reloading the network card kernel module doesn't help. The only thing that helps is reboot. Clearly something is wrong with my system (everything else works fine), but I have no idea what exactly. I don't know how to reproduce this, but as I said, it happens every several days. My setup is a wireless router that is connected to the ISP via PPPoE. Any advice?

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• Slow upload, fast download on Windows 7 64bit system

  - by Malik

  I've got a weird problem in the download speeds on my desktop PC (Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit) are consistently fast (approx. 400kB/s) but uploads are very slow (around 6-10kB/s). This has been going on for the last 3 weeks or so. I am a very competent user and troubleshooter, and have searched online for 2 weeks for a solution, to no avail. Part of the problem is that internet is provided by WiFi by my landlord and I have no access to the router (BT Home Hub router) although I know for sure he wouldn't have the first idea on how to restrict my usage :) (rules that out) Anyway, I've tried: - various drivers (my Wifi 'card' is TP-link TL-WN851N, and I've tried TP-link + Atheros + Qualcomm Atheross drivers, suggested by Microsoft) - various tweaks to network parameters (e.g. as suggested by SpeedOptimser) - various tweaks to Windows 7 services (e.g. disabling/manual-ing unecessary services) - raising and lowering head onto a reasonably firm surface at moderate frequency (jk :D) None of the above have helped, and I'm officialy asking for help now!! Thanks for your time and effort in advance!

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• Grayed-Out Sleep and Hibernate Options on Windows 7 After Updating Graphics Driver

  - by Maxim Zaslavsky

  I have a Gateway M275 Tablet PC, on which I've installed Windows 7 Ultimate. The laptop is quite old, so there aren't any Win7 drivers for it, not to mention any Vista drivers. Win7 has been working for some time, but I noticed that my video output wasn't working. I went into Device Manager and found that I didn't have a driver for my video card: it just recognized it as the standard one. I searched online and found an XP driver for it, released by Gateway. Device Manager accepted this driver and prompted me to reboot. After that, I noticed that my Sleep and Hibernate options in the Shut Down menu have been grayed-out. I looked online and found that many people are attributing this to display drivers, as such an old driver would surely not be compatible with the standby procedures Windows 7 uses. To make it clear: I was able to Sleep and Hibernate before updating the drivers; now, I can't. Running powercfg /a gives me, "An internal system component has disabled this standby state," for each available standby mode. Is there some way that the driver can be modified to support hibernation? The new driver fixed my video output problem, but I guess hibernation is more important for me. If not, what steps should I take to remove the driver and just leave the standard Windows one, which previously supported hibernation and sleep on this computer? Thanks in advance.

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• Server 2008 RAID 5 Write Speeds

  - by Solipsism

  I recently configured a RAID 5 partition in Server 2008 with 4 RAID 5 disks. These disks are connected through a SATA expansion card that uses PCIe. This morning, I checked and they had finally finished synchronizing, and so I tried to do some speed tests. Copying off the disks started pretty much fine - speeds began at 125MB/s, then trailed down to about 70MB/s, which I found odd but not worrying. Writing TO the disks however is a completely different story. I attempted to copy some of my VM host ISOs onto the disks (~2-4 GB apiece) and this resulted in speeds of approximately 10MB/s. I tried copying both from a local disk (connected directly to the motherboard) and from another server ththe gigabit network and results were the same. I checked the performance monitor while transferring the files and the only thing that stuck out was that my memory hard faults shot up to 6,000 per minute (spiking around 200/s) by explorer.exe. The system is running 2GB of DDR667 ECC RAM and a quad-core 2.3GHz opteron. Is there anything I can do to fix this performance issue (buy more RAM? move the drives to a faster box?, etc) or am I just screwed so long as I stick to windows.

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• Computer does not boot, often

  - by tam

  I've ran into a issue with my computer that it does no longer reach POST, but simply powers on for a fraction of a second and powers off. But this is not always, some times it boots just normally and it works as it should, no issues with not enough power or anything. But as soon as I turn it of, I can not turn it back on, but then again at some random point it just powers up again, and resumes normal operation. If I disconnect the 8pin ATX connector from the motherboard, it powers up, fans and disks spinning normally until I power it off again. So this problem only happens when ATX is connected, which seems odd, I normally always saw this kind of an error if ATX was not connected, but here it's the exact opposite. It also does not emit any sound on the buzzer, except the normal beep, when it powers up normally. I have already tried: Remove graphics card Remove one and/or all RAM sticks Disconnect everything non-essential, even hard drives Clear CMOS I have not yet tried to remove all components and tried to boot everything outside of the case, because I did not have the time to disassemble and bleed the water loop. However, I can confirm that nothing is stuck underneath the motherboard, not is any of those brass raisers touching the board where it should not. Specs: Gigabyte GA-970A-UD3 AMD FX6300 ATI HD7850 I think this should be enough for this issue.

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• How long will a "safely stored" Solid-State-Drive (SSD) keep its data? (e.g. bank safety-deposit box)

  - by user31575

  Here's my usecase: once-and-only-once copy off photos/videos to an internal SATA Solid State Drive (SSD) put this drive in a well-ventilated, air-conditioned bank "safety deposit box" for safe keeping The question: How long can I safely store a solid-state-drive in such an environment? i.e. 0% bitrot, 100% success when "plugged in" Are some SSD drives more reliable than other for this usecase? (e.g. smaller size vs larger size, SLC vs MLC, different brands, etc) More fodder: I have read that solid state memory cards (e..g compactflash, or sd cards) have much longer durability than other media (DVD's, CD's, hard drives) for this usecase (guaranteed against bitrot/other dysfunction on the order of ~ a decades vs a year ). I don't know if this applies to "SSD hard drives". Copying to one 500Gb ssd vs 8 64gb flash drives is easier SSD SATA hard drives have no moving parts, but they have more "visible electronics" than a compact flash card. I don't know if this "visible electronics" can fail, i.e. in contr I know many will point to carbonite, other cloud backup stuff, but I like the simplicity of having physical copies and wanted to understand the risks/implications thanks,

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• my cpu won't start. all fan were spinning for a second then nothing happen

  - by Tommy

  I need help about this.. I'm from Malaysia.. Back then my cpu is all okay..and it's 4 year old.. I think this question is answered before but i'm still don't understand.. when i plugged my cpu..turn it on and all of the fan (graphic card, mobo fan and PSU fan) were spinning just for a second than nothing happen.. I don't know if it is because of the PSU or my mobo.. I sent my cpu to the shop and they said it must be the mobo.. They tell me to change my mobo and PSU also..and it cost over 100 buck (rm300 in Malaysia). and i'm real 'dry' right now. My whole data is inside the HDD. School projects, photos, games, and many..I really-really need my cpu back alive.. My mobo is MSI MS-7529 with dual core chips. My PSU is ATX-480W. the PC store guy said i need to change to new ASUS mobo if I want. I dont know what type it is but Then he tell me to change my PSU also because he don't think my old PSU (ATX-480W) ain't compatible to the new mobo.. I was very need a help from you techie guys.. sorry for my terrible English..

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• Vmware Workstation, Win7 host, Ubuntu guests with Nat + Host-only networks but they cannot connect to the Internet

  - by Ikon

  I have a Win7 host machine with Vmware Workstation. In the workstation I have 3 Ubuntu installed. All 3 Ubuntu guests have a Nat network - to access the internet without asking the router for a local address - and a Host-only network - to connect all Ubuntu quests and the host in a private network for internal communication, without touching the router. When I try to make any of the Ubuntu quests to get data from the internet - assuming that they would figure out that the Nat-ed interface can access the requested data - they fail and report that there is no route to my query. If I disconnect the 2nd interface on the Ubuntu guests with the Host-only network and restart networking, they start to know the route to the internet. Odd, during the installation of the guests they asked which of the 2 given interfaces - with Nat and Host-only config - should be used to get updates during installation and they oddly managed to get the updates. Not so after the installation has finished and rebooted. I have checked the Virtual Network Editor that the Nat interface should use my real network card to access the net, so there should be no problem. I wish not to use the router's dhcp service to give the Ubuntu quests an address, and also I don't want the guests to be accessable from the local network directly, but only by the host - that's the Host-only network is for. Any suggestions? Edit: 192.168.189.0 is the Nat interface and 192.168.7.0 is the Host-only. $ route -n Kernel IP routing table Destination Gateway Genmask Flags Metric Ref Use Iface 192.168.7.0 0.0.0.0 255.255.255.0 U 0 0 0 eth1 192.168.189.0 0.0.0.0 255.255.255.0 U 0 0 0 eth0 0.0.0.0 192.168.189.2 0.0.0.0 UG 100 0 0 eth0

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• Ubuntu Server Wireless connection issue - replaced router but kept ESSID

  - by Stevo

  I have a ubuntu server 12.04 which was connected to my wireless network with no problem I replaced the wireless router but kept the ESSID and password the same. All other devices on network have connected correctly. However the Ubuntu Server will not route correctly. It will connect to the wifi router, and get a dhcp served IP address, however it will not route anything. I cannot ping the router from the server. the contents of /etc/resolve.conf are updated with the information from the router, (the host name has been served) I know there is nothing wrong with the router or the server, or the wireless card etc. I'm assuming there's some cached setting that associates the old router with the ESSID and causing the issue. I've got a lot of other devices connected to the router, so don't want to change the name of the ESSID. How do I fix this? EDIT: outputs (abbreviated as I've got no cut and paste) netstat -rn: Kernel IP Routing table Dest Gate Gen Flags MSS Window irtt Iface 0.0.0.0 192.168.0.1 0.0.0.0. UG 0 0 0 wlan0 192.168.0.0 0.0.0.0. 255.255.255.0 U 0 0 0 wlan0

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• System With Two Network Adapters

  - by Synetech inc.

  Hi, My system has a NIC (Marvell Yukon) built-into the motherboard, but I also have a D-Link (RealTek) card. I figure that using the D-Link and disabling the Marvell makes the most sense, though I'm wondering if maybe the built-in one has better throughput (not that my Internet connection is so fast). Also, I'm wondering about the merits of using both at the same time. My router has four ports and I have experimented with enabling and plugging both NICs into the router. I was able to connect to the Internet, but the pattern of usage seemed irregular (which adapter was chosen for the transfer and any given point). I also considered bridging the two, but am having difficulty in finding out what exactly creating network bridge does in the context of the Windows Network Connections window. I am familiar with the concept of connecting networks, so it seems to me that birding two connections on the same segment is pointless at best (and can cause problems like loops?) Does anyone have any tips on what to do if a system has more than one NIC and any clarification on the bridge option? Thanks a lot.

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