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  • Failed install 12.04 on Intel Hardware Raid with Large Partition (> 2TB)

    - by Michael Wiles
    I have Intel Hardware Raid on the motherboard. I have 10 2 TB HDD that I've configured as RAID 1+0 to be one big 8 TB HDD. Now I'm trying to install ubuntu 12.04 on it. After installing with default desktop installation disk I get a blank screen with a cursor flashing. If I try the alternate guided partitioning option I get error: out of disk. and the grub prompt. If I boot with the rescue disk or such like I can drop into a shell and view the disk. Everything also installs without an issue. Don't know what to do...

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  • Developing a DVR software using a hardware KIT

    - by Leron
    I'm currently thinking about a project for my masters degree graduation. I start researching for options to make my own video streaming software based on a premade hardware kit having not much knowledge about what I'll exactly need that will match my needs. My search led me to the DVR (Digital Video Recorder) cards which seems to be the closest to what I need, but still I can't find out a few basic things so I decide to ask for them here. Currently I haven't find a lot of manufacturers that offers such kits so where I can look and have some options to choose from? There are a lot of DVR products on the market but they already have a software written for them and even if I buy one they just don't give any documentation or sdk's so buying such is not an option I need a DVR card made exactly for software programers and not end users. Are there a preferred manufacturers that provide such kind of devices with good and developer-friendly documentation? Also - I prefer to do all this with Java, is this an option (I think I will make it with .NET too but really prefer Java as a language of choice)

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  • Disabling hardware checking in the start up

    - by sven
    I have a ubuntu (10.04) on my desktop and it doesn't have monitor. I would like to connect the desktop (ubuntu) via teamviewer from my laptop. However, when the PC is powered, pc gives an error about it could not find monitor and it gets stuck in this error and does not continue. Since the ubuntu started correclty, teamviewer doesnt start to work on ubuntu so that I can not connect to the ubuntu. How can I disable hardware/desktop checking at the startup, so that ubuntu would start normally then I can use teamviewer?

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  • Ruby SerialPorts Gem

    - by Seth Archer
    Using Ruby SerialPorts Gem to interact with hardware. When I write a byte array to the hardware using a program called "Serial Port Monitor" the hardware responds correctly. However, when I write the same byte array using ruby it doesn't work unless I do a read request just before the write request. This device doesn't respond correctly with this sp = SerialPort.new(args) sp.write [200.chr, 30.chr, 6.chr, 5.chr, 1.chr, 2.chr, 0.chr, 244.chr] But it does if I add a read request before the write. Like this sp SerialPort.new(args) sp.read sp.write [200.chr, 30.chr, 6.chr, 5.chr, 1.chr, 2.chr, 0.chr, 244.chr] This works, but I'm at a loss as to why. I should also add that the first snippet does work occasionally maybe 1/10 of the time.

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  • Where to find information about ubuntu compatible or certified hardware/PC models

    - by Halkinn
    I am buying a new desktop PC in early 2013, anyway this question should apply to someone intending to buy a new laptop/ultrabook as well. This machine is not meant for gaming, and if I ocasionally do it, I can survive with minimum graphics. However I may need some heavy multimedia edition or multitasking at times, so basically my greatest priority is a good processor, after that perhaps average graphic card (if onboards are not enough, I am still not informed enough about that), at least 4GB of RAM with possibility of expansion. I know there are some PC models specially designed to ship with Ubuntu, which is the OS I use the most these days. However, most people around me use Windows and some software with unsupported versions for Linux and not having a Windows license becomes a bit problematic. Given that, I would like to find information about which PC models or even manufacters currently on the market have the best compatibility with Ubuntu, I am still undecided between building my own desktop or buying a pre-made model, so I would like to find information both for certified models and certified hardware or even Ubuntu partners that may work closely with Canonical. Where to find this information in order to make sure that I will have a good experience with Ubuntu on my new PC in the years to come?

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  • HTG Reviews the CODE Keyboard: Old School Construction Meets Modern Amenities

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    There’s nothing quite as satisfying as the smooth and crisp action of a well built keyboard. If you’re tired of  mushy keys and cheap feeling keyboards, a well-constructed mechanical keyboard is a welcome respite from the $10 keyboard that came with your computer. Read on as we put the CODE mechanical keyboard through the paces. What is the CODE Keyboard? The CODE keyboard is a collaboration between manufacturer WASD Keyboards and Jeff Atwood of Coding Horror (the guy behind the Stack Exchange network and Discourse forum software). Atwood’s focus was incorporating the best of traditional mechanical keyboards and the best of modern keyboard usability improvements. In his own words: The world is awash in terrible, crappy, no name how-cheap-can-we-make-it keyboards. There are a few dozen better mechanical keyboard options out there. I’ve owned and used at least six different expensive mechanical keyboards, but I wasn’t satisfied with any of them, either: they didn’t have backlighting, were ugly, had terrible design, or were missing basic functions like media keys. That’s why I originally contacted Weyman Kwong of WASD Keyboards way back in early 2012. I told him that the state of keyboards was unacceptable to me as a geek, and I proposed a partnership wherein I was willing to work with him to do whatever it takes to produce a truly great mechanical keyboard. Even the ardent skeptic who questions whether Atwood has indeed created a truly great mechanical keyboard certainly can’t argue with the position he starts from: there are so many agonizingly crappy keyboards out there. Even worse, in our opinion, is that unless you’re a typist of a certain vintage there’s a good chance you’ve never actually typed on a really nice keyboard. Those that didn’t start using computers until the mid-to-late 1990s most likely have always typed on modern mushy-key keyboards and never known the joy of typing on a really responsive and crisp mechanical keyboard. Is our preference for and love of mechanical keyboards shining through here? Good. We’re not even going to try and hide it. So where does the CODE keyboard stack up in pantheon of keyboards? Read on as we walk you through the simple setup and our experience using the CODE. Setting Up the CODE Keyboard Although the setup of the CODE keyboard is essentially plug and play, there are two distinct setup steps that you likely haven’t had to perform on a previous keyboard. Both highlight the degree of care put into the keyboard and the amount of customization available. Inside the box you’ll find the keyboard, a micro USB cable, a USB-to-PS2 adapter, and a tool which you may be unfamiliar with: a key puller. We’ll return to the key puller in a moment. Unlike the majority of keyboards on the market, the cord isn’t permanently affixed to the keyboard. What does this mean for you? Aside from the obvious need to plug it in yourself, it makes it dead simple to repair your own keyboard cord if it gets attacked by a pet, mangled in a mechanism on your desk, or otherwise damaged. It also makes it easy to take advantage of the cable routing channels in on the underside of the keyboard to  route your cable exactly where you want it. While we’re staring at the underside of the keyboard, check out those beefy rubber feet. By peripherals standards they’re huge (and there is six instead of the usual four). Once you plunk the keyboard down where you want it, it might as well be glued down the rubber feet work so well. After you’ve secured the cable and adjusted it to your liking, there is one more task  before plug the keyboard into the computer. On the bottom left-hand side of the keyboard, you’ll find a small recess in the plastic with some dip switches inside: The dip switches are there to switch hardware functions for various operating systems, keyboard layouts, and to enable/disable function keys. By toggling the dip switches you can change the keyboard from QWERTY mode to Dvorak mode and Colemak mode, the two most popular alternative keyboard configurations. You can also use the switches to enable Mac-functionality (for Command/Option keys). One of our favorite little toggles is the SW3 dip switch: you can disable the Caps Lock key; goodbye accidentally pressing Caps when you mean to press Shift. You can review the entire dip switch configuration chart here. The quick-start for Windows users is simple: double check that all the switches are in the off position (as seen in the photo above) and then simply toggle SW6 on to enable the media and backlighting function keys (this turns the menu key on the keyboard into a function key as typically found on laptop keyboards). After adjusting the dip switches to your liking, plug the keyboard into an open USB port on your computer (or into your PS/2 port using the included adapter). Design, Layout, and Backlighting The CODE keyboard comes in two flavors, a traditional 87-key layout (no number pad) and a traditional 104-key layout (number pad on the right hand side). We identify the layout as traditional because, despite some modern trapping and sneaky shortcuts, the actual form factor of the keyboard from the shape of the keys to the spacing and position is as classic as it comes. You won’t have to learn a new keyboard layout and spend weeks conditioning yourself to a smaller than normal backspace key or a PgUp/PgDn pair in an unconventional location. Just because the keyboard is very conventional in layout, however, doesn’t mean you’ll be missing modern amenities like media-control keys. The following additional functions are hidden in the F11, F12, Pause button, and the 2×6 grid formed by the Insert and Delete rows: keyboard illumination brightness, keyboard illumination on/off, mute, and then the typical play/pause, forward/backward, stop, and volume +/- in Insert and Delete rows, respectively. While we weren’t sure what we’d think of the function-key system at first (especially after retiring a Microsoft Sidewinder keyboard with a huge and easily accessible volume knob on it), it took less than a day for us to adapt to using the Fn key, located next to the right Ctrl key, to adjust our media playback on the fly. Keyboard backlighting is a largely hit-or-miss undertaking but the CODE keyboard nails it. Not only does it have pleasant and easily adjustable through-the-keys lighting but the key switches the keys themselves are attached to are mounted to a steel plate with white paint. Enough of the light reflects off the interior cavity of the keys and then diffuses across the white plate to provide nice even illumination in between the keys. Highlighting the steel plate beneath the keys brings us to the actual construction of the keyboard. It’s rock solid. The 87-key model, the one we tested, is 2.0 pounds. The 104-key is nearly a half pound heavier at 2.42 pounds. Between the steel plate, the extra-thick PCB board beneath the steel plate, and the thick ABS plastic housing, the keyboard has very solid feel to it. Combine that heft with the previously mentioned thick rubber feet and you have a tank-like keyboard that won’t budge a millimeter during normal use. Examining The Keys This is the section of the review the hardcore typists and keyboard ninjas have been waiting for. We’ve looked at the layout of the keyboard, we’ve looked at the general construction of it, but what about the actual keys? There are a wide variety of keyboard construction techniques but the vast majority of modern keyboards use a rubber-dome construction. The key is floated in a plastic frame over a rubber membrane that has a little rubber dome for each key. The press of the physical key compresses the rubber dome downwards and a little bit of conductive material on the inside of the dome’s apex connects with the circuit board. Despite the near ubiquity of the design, many people dislike it. The principal complaint is that dome keyboards require a complete compression to register a keystroke; keyboard designers and enthusiasts refer to this as “bottoming out”. In other words, the register the “b” key, you need to completely press that key down. As such it slows you down and requires additional pressure and movement that, over the course of tens of thousands of keystrokes, adds up to a whole lot of wasted time and fatigue. The CODE keyboard features key switches manufactured by Cherry, a company that has manufactured key switches since the 1960s. Specifically the CODE features Cherry MX Clear switches. These switches feature the same classic design of the other Cherry switches (such as the MX Blue and Brown switch lineups) but they are significantly quieter (yes this is a mechanical keyboard, but no, your neighbors won’t think you’re firing off a machine gun) as they lack the audible click found in most Cherry switches. This isn’t to say that they keyboard doesn’t have a nice audible key press sound when the key is fully depressed, but that the key mechanism isn’t doesn’t create a loud click sound when triggered. One of the great features of the Cherry MX clear is a tactile “bump” that indicates the key has been compressed enough to register the stroke. For touch typists the very subtle tactile feedback is a great indicator that you can move on to the next stroke and provides a welcome speed boost. Even if you’re not trying to break any word-per-minute records, that little bump when pressing the key is satisfying. The Cherry key switches, in addition to providing a much more pleasant typing experience, are also significantly more durable than dome-style key switch. Rubber dome switch membrane keyboards are typically rated for 5-10 million contacts whereas the Cherry mechanical switches are rated for 50 million contacts. You’d have to write the next War and Peace  and follow that up with A Tale of Two Cities: Zombie Edition, and then turn around and transcribe them both into a dozen different languages to even begin putting a tiny dent in the lifecycle of this keyboard. So what do the switches look like under the classicly styled keys? You can take a look yourself with the included key puller. Slide the loop between the keys and then gently beneath the key you wish to remove: Wiggle the key puller gently back and forth while exerting a gentle upward pressure to pop the key off; You can repeat the process for every key, if you ever find yourself needing to extract piles of cat hair, Cheeto dust, or other foreign objects from your keyboard. There it is, the naked switch, the source of that wonderful crisp action with the tactile bump on each keystroke. The last feature worthy of a mention is the N-key rollover functionality of the keyboard. This is a feature you simply won’t find on non-mechanical keyboards and even gaming keyboards typically only have any sort of key roller on the high-frequency keys like WASD. So what is N-key rollover and why do you care? On a typical mass-produced rubber-dome keyboard you cannot simultaneously press more than two keys as the third one doesn’t register. PS/2 keyboards allow for unlimited rollover (in other words you can’t out type the keyboard as all of your keystrokes, no matter how fast, will register); if you use the CODE keyboard with the PS/2 adapter you gain this ability. If you don’t use the PS/2 adapter and use the native USB, you still get 6-key rollover (and the CTRL, ALT, and SHIFT don’t count towards the 6) so realistically you still won’t be able to out type the computer as even the more finger twisting keyboard combos and high speed typing will still fall well within the 6-key rollover. The rollover absolutely doesn’t matter if you’re a slow hunt-and-peck typist, but if you’ve read this far into a keyboard review there’s a good chance that you’re a serious typist and that kind of quality construction and high-number key rollover is a fantastic feature.  The Good, The Bad, and the Verdict We’ve put the CODE keyboard through the paces, we’ve played games with it, typed articles with it, left lengthy comments on Reddit, and otherwise used and abused it like we would any other keyboard. The Good: The construction is rock solid. In an emergency, we’re confident we could use the keyboard as a blunt weapon (and then resume using it later in the day with no ill effect on the keyboard). The Cherry switches are an absolute pleasure to type on; the Clear variety found in the CODE keyboard offer a really nice middle-ground between the gun-shot clack of a louder mechanical switch and the quietness of a lesser-quality dome keyboard without sacrificing quality. Touch typists will love the subtle tactile bump feedback. Dip switch system makes it very easy for users on different systems and with different keyboard layout needs to switch between operating system and keyboard layouts. If you’re investing a chunk of change in a keyboard it’s nice to know you can take it with you to a different operating system or “upgrade” it to a new layout if you decide to take up Dvorak-style typing. The backlighting is perfect. You can adjust it from a barely-visible glow to a blazing light-up-the-room brightness. Whatever your intesity preference, the white-coated steel backplate does a great job diffusing the light between the keys. You can easily remove the keys for cleaning (or to rearrange the letters to support a new keyboard layout). The weight of the unit combined with the extra thick rubber feet keep it planted exactly where you place it on the desk. The Bad: While you’re getting your money’s worth, the $150 price tag is a shock when compared to the $20-60 price tags you find on lower-end keyboards. People used to large dedicated media keys independent of the traditional key layout (such as the large buttons and volume controls found on many modern keyboards) might be off put by the Fn-key style media controls on the CODE. The Verdict: The keyboard is clearly and heavily influenced by the needs of serious typists. Whether you’re a programmer, transcriptionist, or just somebody that wants to leave the lengthiest article comments the Internet has ever seen, the CODE keyboard offers a rock solid typing experience. Yes, $150 isn’t pocket change, but the quality of the CODE keyboard is so high and the typing experience is so enjoyable, you’re easily getting ten times the value you’d get out of purchasing a lesser keyboard. Even compared to other mechanical keyboards on the market, like the Das Keyboard, you’re still getting more for your money as other mechanical keyboards don’t come with the lovely-to-type-on Cherry MX Clear switches, back lighting, and hardware-based operating system keyboard layout switching. If it’s in your budget to upgrade your keyboard (especially if you’ve been slogging along with a low-end rubber-dome keyboard) there’s no good reason to not pickup a CODE keyboard. Key animation courtesy of Geekhack.org user Lethal Squirrel.       

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  • Recommended hardware for developing ios games?

    - by Matthew
    I know you have to have mac os x to use xcode and thus to develop/compile apps for the iphone. And I'm not exactly wanting to go the hackintosh way, so I'm looking at buying a used mac. What specs are recommended. If I buy a cheap mac mini that has only 1gb of ram would that be enough? (I'm not talking about using that to create the graphics/audio, I'll use my normal windows/ubuntu pc for that). I'm just talking about being able to use xcode and write applications. I'm trying to spend the least amount I can without running into problems developing the app.

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  • Inspiron 5720 unclaimed hardware

    - by Chelios
    I have two unclaimed devices in my Dell Inspiron 5720: *-display UNCLAIMED description: 3D controller product: NVIDIA Corporation vendor: NVIDIA Corporation physical id: 0 bus info: pci@0000:01:00.0 version: a1 width: 64 bits clock: 33MHz capabilities: pm msi pciexpress cap_list configuration: latency=0 resources: memory:f0000000-f0ffffff memory:c0000000-cfffffff memory:d0000000-d1ffffff ioport:3000(size=128) *-serial UNCLAIMED description: SMBus product: 7 Series/C210 Series Chipset Family SMBus Controller vendor: Intel Corporation physical id: 1f.3 bus info: pci@0000:00:1f.3 version: 04 width: 64 bits clock: 33MHz configuration: latency=0 resources: memory:f1614000-f16140ff ioport:efa0(size=32) What are these devices and what drivers do I need for them? Thanks!

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  • Enterprise Installation Services für Oracle Hardware

    - by swalker
    Basierend auf der Methodik der Oracle Enterprise Installation Services (EIS) werden die von spezialisierten OPN-Partnern durchgeführten Hardwareinstallationen im Rahmen von Supportleistungen und der Produktgarantie von Oracle anerkannt. Partner, die Installationen durchführen, müssen nun den Anhang zum Oracle Installation Service akzeptieren und Oracle diese Installationen melden. Klicken Sie hier, um weitere Informationen zu erhalten.

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  • Hardware issues on Samsung NF208 (NF210)

    - by KristoferA - Huagati.com
    I'm trying to get Ubuntu 10.10 running on my wife's Samsung NF208 (same spec as NF210, but shipped without OS), and I have run into a pile of problems: At first, there were problems with audio, display brightness, and WiFi, so I reinstalled Ubuntu from scratch. After reinstalling, the audio has started working but the WiFi loses network access all the time and then it takes 5-10 minutes for it to reconnect to the network. Also, display brightness is at its lowest. I have tried to use the brightness command but it won't run. Is this system utterly incompatible with Ubuntu, or are there working WiFi and display drivers for it somewhere? I have googled for days but haven't found anything useful. Help me. Update: I never got it working properly. I came across lots of useful tips and tricks over at the forum linked to in the accepted answer but I just wasn't able to get it working and stable enough for the intended use. Hopefully a future version of Ubuntu and/or the samsung tools will solve that. Related thread over at the other forum: http://www.voria.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=682

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  • Hardware purchase recommendation

    - by Maxim Veksler
    I'm building a custom PC configuration for Development / Gaming. I know hardware but I'm not an expert. It would be great if I could post my hardware list and get some review & recommendation for the hardware selections I've made. Do you know of any website / forum that does that? Thank you, Maxim. p.s. To whom it may concern, the work in progress hardware list is here http://bit.ly/9zBU2y

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  • Lenovo Thinkpad X1 Carbon support

    - by Robottinosino
    I am considering selling my Mac to get money towards a Lenovo Thinkpad X1 because what I really want to do is to be running an Ubuntu system all the time. Is this machine completely supported in Ubuntu, with no tiny little feature missing just because I am "going Linux"? Optional user story section, skip to the question below if you don't have time: I have a friend who bought a "works on Ubuntu" system a year ago and has hated the fact ever since: battery lasts less than if he boots in Windows (which he despises) and he ascribes that to "no good OS/harware integration and support for advanced chipset power management features", odd behaviour on suspend/resume/hibernate (says: "when it works 90% of the time and the other 10% it makes you lose your work is as good as broken - 90% is the same as 0% he says), some occasional graphics card glitches he can perfectly well live with and has almost grown affectionate to, and finally, and that is what would make him undo his choice if he could, bad "input device drivers". He says: trackpoint and trackpad just "feel different", "so much better" on Windows and that was impossible to know from the website brochure. That story makes me very doubtful... but I want to abandon this "walled garden" of prison that is my Mac and go Ubuntu all the way, no doubt about that! My dilemma at this time is just: "I don't want to live with those eternal frustrations for sure"! Here's a directly answerable phrasing of my question: Is the Lenovo Thinkpad X1 supported on Ubuntu? Yes/no, which version? Which hardware features are not supported? Provide a list Optionally: sort the list in descending order of frustration from your experience Optionally: mention if there are acceptable workarounds to the "out-of-the-box" condition described in the earlier points and whether this ameliorates frustration at least to "tolerable" levels Comment: the Ubuntu hardware certification page is so not-for-end-users it's unreal. Whoa. What would make it end-user friendly is: Link to "buy here and you'll be just fine, this is the right configuration for you, it'll work as long as you press BUY on that page and don't browse further" Remove mentions of may and might not work. Just tell it straight: press buy here and you will get a working system with the exception of A, B, C (so that I can decide whether the philosophical "freedom pleasure" I get from escaping an Apple world is enough to off-balance the loss, for instance, of Bluetooth capabilities (something that I of course use on my Mac) but "could" lose to use free (as in freedom) software The certification page fails to dispel doubts in me as an end-user. I don't feel "eased into Ubuntu", I feel "partially informed".

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  • Java Hardware Acceleration

    - by Freezerburn
    I have been spending some time looking into the hardware acceleration features of Java, and I am still a bit confused as none of the sites that I found online directly and clearly answered some of the questions I have. So here are the questions I have for hardware acceleration in Java: 1) In Eclipse version 3.6.0, with the most recent Java update for Mac OS X (1.6u10 I think), is hardware acceleration enabled by default? I read somewhere that someCanvas.getGraphicsConfiguration().getBufferCapabilities().isPageFlipping() is supposed to give an indication of whether or not hardware acceleration is enabled, and my program reports back true when that is run on my main Canvas instance for drawing to. If my hardware acceleration is not enabled now, or by default, what would I have to do to enable it? 2) I have seen a couple articles here and there about the difference between a BufferedImage and VolatileImage, mainly saying that VolatileImage is the hardware accelerated image and is stored in VRAM for fast copy-from operations. However, I have also found some instances where BufferedImage is said to be hardware accelerated as well. Is BufferedImage hardware accelerated as well in my environment? What would be the advantage of using a VolatileImage if both types are hardware accelerated? My main assumption for the advantage of having a VolatileImage in the case of both having acceleration is that VolatileImage is able to detect when its VRAM has been dumped. But if BufferedImage also support acceleration now, would it not have the same kind of detection built into it as well, just hidden from the user, in case that the memory is dumped? 3) Is there any advantage to using someGraphicsConfiguration.getCompatibleImage/getCompatibleVolatileImage() as opposed to ImageIO.read() In a tutorial I have been reading for some general concepts about setting up the rendering window properly (tutorial) it uses the getCompatibleImage method, which I believe returns a BufferedImage, to get their "hardware accelerated" images for fast drawing, which ties into question 2 about if it is hardware accelerated. 4) This is less hardware acceleration, but it is something I have been curious about: do I need to order which graphics get drawn? I know that when using OpenGL via C/C++ it is best to make sure that the same graphic is drawn in all the locations it needs to be drawn at once to reduce the number of times the current texture needs to be switch. From what I have read, it seems as if Java will take care of this for me and make sure things are drawn in the most optimal fashion, but again, nothing has ever said anything like this clearly. 5) What AWT/Swing classes support hardware acceleration, and which ones should be used? I am currently using a class that extends JFrame to create a window, and adding a Canvas to it from which I create a BufferStrategy. Is this good practice, or is there some other type of way I should be implementing this? Thank you very much for your time, and I hope I provided clear questions and enough information for you to answer my several questions.

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  • Who makes laptops for Ubuntu?

    - by Tim Lytle
    I'm looking for a laptop and would like to avoid the whole 'is this [specific configuration of hardware] compatible with Ubuntu?' process by finding a laptop manufactured with Ubuntu in mind. I know of system76, but are there any other manufacturers making laptops built to run a standard build of Ubuntu? I'm not counting Dell, as - from my experience - their 'Ubuntu' laptops/netbooks require their build, and because of that have their own set of compatibility issues. UPDATE: And as mentioned in the comments, Dell is no longer selling systems with Ubuntu to consumers.

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  • Remove hardware from "safely remove hardware" list on Windows 7

    - by ricsmania
    Hi, I have a USB wifi card (D-Link DWA-125) on a Windows 7 x64 computer. The problem is that the card appears on the "safely remove hardware" list, but I don't ever want to unplug it, so I would like to remove it from the list. So far I have only found solutions that mess with the registry (and don't really work properly) or that substitute the safely remove hardware with a third-party software. Or worse, hide the icon altogether. Yes, I do need the icon from USB drives and phones. So, is there a "clean" way to remove it from the list? Thanks.

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  • Web App Server hardware question. Which configuration?

    - by JBeckton
    I am pricing some new servers and I am not sure which configuration to get. The server will be running several web applications for our company. Some of them are ASP.Net sites and some are ColdFusion. The OS will be Win Server 2008 Web or Standard Edition. Do I need 2 processors or will a single quad core handle it? Xeon multi core Hyperthreading or non Hyperthreading? I am going 64bit so I can go higher than 4 Gigs of Ram. I am shopping at Dell and there are so many options, I want to get the most bang for my buck without going over budget and I also don't want the machine to be mostly under utilized.

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  • How to delete old pagefile.sys and hiberfile.sys on secondary disk (old windows install)

    - by Silvermist
    A while ago I swapped my main hard disk for a SSD. Now the old one is used as a secondary hard disk, and my OS is a fresh windows install on the main SSD disk. Nevertheless, there are still huge pagefile.sys and hiberfile.sys on that secondary hard drive. Those are not the ones used by the current windows, as those do exist on C:. I tried to attrib -s -h them, but it refused with "Access denied". Any idea how to delete those old unused system files and reclaim the space?

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  • Hardware requirements for playing HD

    - by asdasd
    A friend of mine has some HD videos (720p and 1080p), so i would like what are the hardware requirements in order to play them correctly with no slowing-downs ? my computer is build of : Intel(R) Celeron(R) CPU 2.40GHz nvidia GeForce 5200 FX 768 RAM My friend said that it won't be possible to play the HD videos on my comp because of it's old hardware - is this true ? And again, what are the minimal hardware setup needed to play HD ? Thanks.

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  • Hardware Acceleration on Windows Server 2008

    - by user1184598
    Does Windows Server 2008 have hardware acceleration? I tried to use WPF to make over 20,000 drawings. It only cause around 40% CPU in windows 7. However, I run the same program on Windows Server 2008 with the same hardware configuration except that it has a dedicated graphical display card (GT 9500) while Windows 7 has only an onboard display card, it cause over 80% CPU. So, does Windows Server 2008 have hardware acceleration? Or could I make it? And how do I change the hardware acceleration setting? Thanks.

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  • hardware for pushing buttons

    - by Elazar Leibovich
    Many times I want my computer to interface old hardware. Such as radio, light switch, etc. This mostly involves pushing pressing and moving various buttons and switches. I don't want to buy new hardware I want my computer to interface the old hardware I already have. I thought about it and reached to the conclusion that what I need is a general purpose button-pusher hardware. I need a simple device I can interface by a computer and would be able to push most of the buttons we have in daily accessories, without damaging the button. Is there any such accessory availible?

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  • Server Hardware on the Desktop

    - by jcnnghm
    When I rebuild my desktop, I'm thinking of using server hardware instead of desktop hardware. I want to do this so I can easily add a lot of ECC memory (~20GB), and possibly more than one processor. I know that video hardware could be a problem, especially because I use 4 monitors. I should be fine with this, as long as I have two pci-e channels. Are there any downsides to doing this? Anything I'm not seeing?

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  • Server Hardware on the Desktop

    - by jcnnghm
    When I rebuild my desktop, I'm thinking of using server hardware instead of desktop hardware. I want to do this so I can easily add a lot of ECC memory (~20GB), and possibly more than one processor. I know that video hardware could be a problem, especially because I use 4 monitors. I should be fine with this, as long as I have two pci-e channels. Are there any downsides to doing this? Anything I'm not seeing?

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  • Effecient organization of spare cables and hardware

    - by Jake Wharton
    As many of you also likely do, I have a growing collection of cables, hardware, and spare parts (screws, connectors, etc.). I'm looking to find a good system of organization so that everything isn't a tangled mess, mismatched, and potentially able to be damaged. Since the the three things listed above are all have varying sizes and degrees of delicacy this poises an interesting problem. Presently I have those cheap plastic storage bins you find at Wal-mart for everything. Cables that were once wrapped neatly have become tangled due to numerous "I know I have a cable for this" moments. Hardware is mixed in other bins with odds and ends with no protection from each other. NICs, CPUs, and HDDs are all interacting and likely causing damage. Finally there are stray parts sprinkled amongst these two both in plastic bags and loose. I'm looking to unify this storage into a controlled chaos. Here are my thoughts: Odds and ends are the easiest. Screws, connectors, and small electronic parts lend themselves perfectly to tackle boxes and jewelry boxes. Since these are usually dynamically compartmentalized I can adjust for the contents and label them on the outside or inside of the lid. Cables are easily wrangled with short velcro strips but that doesn't stop them from being all mixed in together. Hardware is the worst offender. Size, shape, and degree of delicacy changes with nearly every piece. I'm willing to sacrifice a bit of organization for a somewhat efficient manner. What are all your thoughts? What is the best type of tackle or jewelry box to use? Most of them are cheap and flimsy. Is there a better alternative? How can I organize cables to know exactly (within reason) where one is? What about associating cables with hardware (Wall adapter to router, etc.)? What kind of storage unit lends itself to all shapes of hardware? Do I need to separate by size or degree of delicacy for better organization?

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  • Bypassing "Found New Hardware Wizard" / Setting Windows to Install Drivers Automatically

    - by Synetech inc.
    Hi, My motherboard finally died after the better part of a decade, so I bought a used system. I put my old hard-drive and sound-card in the new system, and connected my old keyboard and mouse (the rest of the components—CPU, RAM, mobo, video card—are from the new system). I knew beforehand that it would be a challenge to get Windows to boot and install drivers for the new hardware (particularly since the foundational components are new), but I am completely unable to even attempt to get through the work of installing drivers for things like the video card because the keyboard and mouse won't work (they do work, in the BIOS screen, in DOS mode, in Windows 7, in XP's boot menu, etc., just not in Windows XP itself). Whenever I try to boot XP (in normal or safe mode), I get a bunch of balloons popping up for all the new hardware detected, and a New Hardware Found Wizard for Processor (obviously it has to install drivers for the lowest-level components on up). Unfortunately I cannot click Next since the keyboard and mouse won't work yet because the motherboard drivers (for the PS/2 or USB ports) are not yet installed. I even tried a serial mouse, but to no avail—again, it does work in DOS, 7, etc., but not XP because it doesn't have the serial port driver installed. I tried mounting the SOFTWARE and SYSTEM hives under Windows 7 in order to manually set the "unsigned drivers warning" to ignore (using both of the driver-signing policy settings that I found references to). That didn't work; I still get the wizard. They are not even fancy, proprietary, third-party, or unsigned drivers. They are drivers that come with Windows—as the drivers for CPU, RAM, IDE controller, etc. tend to be. And the keyboard and mouse drivers are the generic ones at that (but like I said, those are irrelevant since the drivers for the ports that they are connected to are not yet installed). Obviously at some point in time over the past several years, a setting got changed to make Windows always prompt me when it detects new hardware. (It was also configured to show the Shutdown Event Tracker on abnormal shutdowns, so I had to turn that off so that I could even see the desktop.) Oh, and I tried deleting all of the PNF files so that they get regenerated, but that too did not help. Does anyone know how I can reset Windows to at least try to automatically install drivers for new hardware before prompting me if it fails? Conversely, does anyone know how exactly one turns off automatic driver installation (and prompt with the wizard)? Thanks a lot.

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  • Hardware for multipurpose home server

    - by Michael Dmitry Azarkevich
    Hi guys, I'm looking to set up a multipurpose home server and hoped you could help me with the hardware selection. First of all, the services it will provide: Hosting a MySQL database (for training and testing purposes) FTP server Personal Mail Server Home media server So with this in mind I've done some research, and found some viable solutions: A standard PC with the appropriate software (Either second hand or new) A non-solid state mini-ITX system A solid state, fanless mini-ITX system I've also noted the pros and cons of each system: A standard second hand PC with old hardware would be the cheapest option. It could also have lacking processing power, not enough RAM and generally faulty hardware. Also, huge power consumption heat generation and noise levels. A standard new PC would have top-notch hardware and will stay that way for quite some time, so it's a good investment. But again, the main problem is power consumption, heat generation and noise levels. A non-solid state mini-ITX system would have the advantages of lower power consumption, lower cost (as far as I can see) and long lasting hardware. But it will generate noise and heat which will be even worse because of the size. A solid state, fanless mini-ITX system would have all the advantages of a non-solid state mini-ITX but with minimal noise and heat. The main disadvantage is the read\write problems of flash memory. All in all I'm leaning towards a non-solid state mini-ITX because of the read\write issues of flash memory. So, after this overview of what I do know, my questions are: Are all these services even providable from a single server? To my best understanding they are, but then again, I might be wrong. Is any of these solutions viable? If yes, which one is the best for my purposes? If not, what would you suggest? Also, on a more software oriented note: OS wise, I'm planning to run Linux. I'm currently thinking of four options I've been recommended: CentOS, Gentoo, DSL (Damn Small Linux) and LFS (Linux From Scratch). Any thoughts on this? Any other distro you would recomend? Regarding FTP services, I've herd good things about FileZila. Anyone has any experience with that? Do you recommend it? Do you recommend something else? Regarding the Mail service, I know nothing about this except that it exists. Any software you recommend for this task? Home media, same as mail service. Any recommended software? Thank you very much.

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