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  • SAS instead of SATA 2 for my hard drives?

    - by jasondavis
    I am building a new system soon, I will have multiple 1-2tb hard drives for storage in it. I only have experience uasing the sataII drives but I saw somewhere that I should be using something like SAS? I read that if I were going to have 20 drives that I could use 4 SAS cables vs 20 SATA cables. Can someone help me understand this better? If it were only 4 cables then how would 20 drives hook up? Also can a regualr sata2 drive hook up to that?

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  • How can you tell a USB cable version?

    - by Keltari
    Here is a question a student asked me in one of my A+ certification classes: How can you tell a USB cable version? I honestly dont know the answer, I cant find one either. USB cables are rated for versions 1, 1.1, 2, and now 3. I have seen their versions on the packaging, but never marked on the cable itself. Since the respective versions are manufactured differently, there is a difference between them. So, how can you tell? On Wikipedia: USB cables v.2 and earlier do use a "twisted pair" method, but doesnt specify if the cables themselves are the same or different. Is the cable rating system for v.2 and earlier just marketing hype?

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  • How can I guess if a USB cable will power my devices?

    - by rsanchez
    I've had problems with one long (4 meter) USB Mini-B to USB Type-A cable not being able to boot a 2.5'' external hard disc due to not supplying enough current. On top of that, the cable used a Type-A to Mini-B adapter for the Mini-B part, which probably made things worse. Three different shorter cables I got around made the hard disk work without extra current, so it was definitively the cable's fault. However, if I plugged the hard disk to the power, and used the long cable just for data it worked. Here is some related information on powering through USB cables: http://www.girr.org/mac_stuff/usb_stuff.html I have not any long cables that don't have an intermediary Type-A to Mini-B adapter to try them out. My question is: is there a way to guess if a cable will provide enough power for charge/disk drive power? Is it related to the length of the cable, to the build quality of the cable, or the fact that uses intermediary adapters?

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  • How to represent a graph with multiple edges allowed between nodes and edges that can selectively disappear

    - by Pops
    I'm trying to figure out what sort of data structure to use for modeling some hypothetical, idealized network usage. In my scenario, a number of users who are hostile to each other are all trying to form networks of computers where all potential connections are known. The computers that one user needs to connect may not be the same as the ones another user needs to connect, though; user 1 might need to connect computers A, B and D while user 2 might need to connect computers B, C and E. Image generated with the help of NCTM Graph Creator I think the core of this is going to be an undirected cyclic graph, with nodes representing computers and edges representing Ethernet cables. However, due to the nature of the scenario, there are a few uncommon features that rule out adjacency lists and adjacency matrices (at least, without non-trivial modifications): edges can become restricted-use; that is, if one user acquires a given network connection, no other user may use that connection in the example, the green user cannot possibly connect to computer A, but the red user has connected B to E despite not having a direct link between them in some cases, a given pair of nodes will be connected by more than one edge in the example, there are two independent cables running from D to E, so the green and blue users were both able to connect those machines directly; however, red can no longer make such a connection if two computers are connected by more than one cable, each user may own no more than one of those cables I'll need to do several operations on this graph, such as: determining whether any particular pair of computers is connected for a given user identifying the optimal path for a given user to connect target computers identifying the highest-latency computer connection for a given user (i.e. longest path without branching) My first thought was to simply create a collection of all of the edges, but that's terrible for searching. The best thing I can think to do now is to modify an adjacency list so that each item in the list contains not only the edge length but also its cost and current owner. Is this a sensible approach? Assuming space is not a concern, would it be reasonable to create multiple copies of the graph (one for each user) rather than a single graph?

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  • Is there other usage of Comcast extension cable and splitter?

    - by Tim
    I have an unused Comcast high-speed internet self-install kit from 2006. It has two coils of extension cable, and a splitter, and some screws. The name of the cable is "extension cable" printed on the package. I wonder if that is its actual name? As ethernet cables are always useful, I wonder if the extension cables are totally worthless and should be tossed into a trash can? Or are they usable for some other purposes, or even sellable? Thanks! SVI Digital SV-2G Splitter (5/1000MHz): One interface of the cables: Screws

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  • Snow Leopard Compatible Drivers for Moschip MCS7720 USB-to-Serial Controller

    - by Kristopher Johnson
    We are using Cables Unlimited USB-2925 USB-to-Dual-DB9 serial cables, which use the Moschip MCS7720 controller. We have downloaded the newest driver from http://www.moschip.com/mcs7720.php, but that driver was last updated in 2005. It does not seem to be working with Macs running OS X 10.6 Snow Leopard. Does anyone know of any updates for this driver, or are there any ways to get the driver to work with Snow Leopard?

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  • Cat5 vs Cat5e vs Cat6 cable confusion

    - by David Hayes
    I'm just about to move house so I'm going to have to disconnect and re-wire my network. Pretty much all the devices I have support gigabit ethernet should I go out an buy some decent network cables (and if so what type) or should I continue using my mix of cat5 cables I've acquired over the years. Does the type of cable really make a difference to my LAN performance??

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  • Why ethernet calbes must be ended with specific arrangement

    - by adopilot
    I just accepted that ethernet cables CAT 5 and more must be ended with specific arrangement. I learned when I ending my cables to take attention that either end must be in same arrangement(568A or 568B ). Sometime I get stacked with my fellow servant that they claim that Cable should work if just arrangement at both side are same even if it is not in 568A or 568B layouts. My experience said that it is not true, but I am now looking for some technical argument to prove that.

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  • ATX power: 20 or 24 pins?

    - by djechelon
    What is the difference between 20-pins ATX power cables and 24-pins ATX power cables for motherboard? I see that Cooler Master Silent Pro PSU has an extensible plug, showing 20 pins + 4 pluggable pins. Since I'm having troubles with my motherboard, which has 24 pins, I tried to connect only the first 20 and the system booted up fine. I'm curious: can any ATX motherboard run with 20-pins power? Will I simply experience lower performance?

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  • DIY Grid-It Clone Organizes Your Tech Gear in Style

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    If you’re looking for a customizable way to organize your cables and small electronics, this DIY Grid-It clone uses a series of elastic straps to hold everything in place. Grid-It is a commercial cable and device organizer that is, essentially, a stiff insert for your briefcase or bag that is wrapped in inter-woven elastic straps. You lift and slide the straps the secure your items in place creating, on the fly, customized organization for your cables and small devices. This DIY project recreations the Grid-It system using an old hard cover book as the foundation for the straps–it doubles the amount of usable space, provides a stiff cover, and (if you select a striking book) looks striking at the same time. Hit up the link below to check out the full DIY guide. DIY Project: Vintage Book Travel-Tech Organizer [Design Sponge via GeekSugar] HTG Explains: When Do You Need to Update Your Drivers? How to Make the Kindle Fire Silk Browser *Actually* Fast! Amazon’s New Kindle Fire Tablet: the How-To Geek Review

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  • How to Play PC Games on Your TV

    - by Chris Hoffman
    No need to wait for Valve’s Steam Machines — connect your Windows gaming PC to your TV and use powerful PC graphics in the living room today. It’s easy — you don’t need any unusual hardware or special software. This is ideal if you’re already a PC gamer who wants to play your games on a larger screen. It’s also convenient if you want to play multiplayer PC games with controllers in your living rom. HDMI Cables and Controllers You’ll need an HDMI cable to connect your PC to your television. This requires a TV with HDMI-in, a PC with HDMI-out, and an HDMI cable. Modern TVs and PCs have had HDMI built in for years, so you should already be good to go. If you don’t have a spare HDMI cable lying around, you may have to buy one or repurpose one of your existing HDMI cables. Just don’t buy the expensive HDMI cables — even a cheap HDMI cable will work just as well as a more expensive one. Plug one end of the HDMI cable into the HDMI-out port on your PC and one end into the HDMI-In port on your TV. Switch your TV’s input to the appropriate HDMI port and you’ll see your PC’s desktop appear on your TV.  Your TV becomes just another external monitor. If you have your TV and PC far away from each other in different rooms, this won’t work. If you have a reasonably powerful laptop, you can just plug that into your TV — or you can unplug your desktop PC and hook it up next to your TV. Now you’ll just need an input device. You probably don’t want to sit directly in front of your TV with a wired keyboard and mouse! A wireless keyboard and wireless mouse can be convenient and may be ideal for some games. However, you’ll probably want a game controller like console players use. Better yet, get multiple game controllers so you can play local-multiplayer PC games with other people. The Xbox 360 controller is the ideal controller for PC gaming. Windows supports these controllers natively, and many PC games are designed specifically for these controllers. Note that Xbox One controllers aren’t yet supported on Windows because Microsoft hasn’t released drivers for them. Yes, you could use a third-party controller or go through the process of pairing a PlayStation controller with your PC using unofficial tools, but it’s better to get an Xbox 360 controller. Just plug one or more Xbox controllers into your PC’s USB ports and they’ll work without any setup required. While many PC games to support controllers, bear in mind that some games require a keyboard and mouse. A TV-Optimized Interface Use Steam’s Big Picture interface to more easily browse and launch games. This interface was designed for using on a television with controllers and even has an integrated web browser you can use with your controller. It will be used on the Valve’s Steam Machine consoles as the default TV interface. You can use a mouse with it too, of course. There’s also nothing stopping you from just using your Windows desktop with a mouse and keyboard — aside from how inconvenient it will be. To launch Big Picture Mode, open Steam and click the Big Picture button at the top-right corner of your screen. You can also press the glowing Xbox logo button in the middle of an Xbox 360 Controller to launch the Big Picture interface if Steam is open. Another Option: In-Home Streaming If you want to leave your PC in one room of your home and play PC games on a TV in a different room, you can consider using local streaming to stream games over your home network from your gaming PC to your television. Bear in mind that the game won’t be as smooth and responsive as it would if you were sitting in front of your PC. You’ll also need a modern router with fast wireless network speeds to keep up with the game streaming. Steam’s built-in In-Home Streaming feature is now available to everyone. You could plug a laptop with less-powerful graphics hardware into your TV and use it to stream games from your powerful desktop gaming rig. You could also use an older desktop PC you have lying around. To stream a game, log into Steam on your gaming PC and log into Steam with the same account on another computer on your home network. You’ll be able to view the library of installed games on your other PC and start streaming them. NVIDIA also has their own GameStream solution that allows you to stream games from a PC with powerful NVIDIA graphics hardware. However, you’ll need an NVIDIA Shield handheld gaming console to do this. At the moment, NVIDIA’s game streaming solution can only stream to the NVIDIA Shield. However, the NVIDIA Shield device can be connected to your TV so you can play that streaming game on your TV. Valve’s Steam Machines are supposed to bring PC gaming to the living room and they’ll do it using HDMI cables, a custom Steam controller, the Big Picture interface, and in-home streaming for compatibility with Windows games. You can do all of this yourself today — you’ll just need an Xbox 360 controller instead of the not-yet-released Steam controller. Image Credit: Marco Arment on Flickr, William Hook on Flickr, Lewis Dowling on Flickr

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  • Broken Creative DTT3500 Digital

    - by djechelon
    Hello, many years ago I bought a Creative DTT3500 Digital surround speakers system. It's been a while since my home theatre started behaving strange. During the past 6 months, I have noticed that the amplifier needed some time before correctly playing digital audio. Until a couple of weeks ago, it needed up to 5 minutes of very noisy "warm up" before playing an "almost" clear audio. Today, I found that even using the analog input (completely disabling digital inputs) the noise persists. Powering off and on the speakers doesn't work. Now, it's reasonable that after almost 10 years, the amplifier got broken. My problem is that I can't simply replace the speakers with another kit from another brand, since 2 speakers in my room are placed in the back wall, with coaxial cables going under the floor but not completely inside a single tube. I mean, I have coaxial extension cables starting from the DTT3500 amplifier, going into the wall, then under the floor in a plastic cable tube, then exiting the tube (still under the floor), connecting to the male coaxial connector of the original cable supplied by Creative, and continuing up to the point close to my bed where the speakers are. I could replace the speakers **only as soon as the new speakers have the same coaxial to bi-polar cables that Creative ships with DTT3500 Another option might be "repairing the amplifier", but I don't know if it's feasible, what should I or a technician look for in the amplifier, and how much would it cost (is it worth to repair or buy a new kit considering the problem above? What do you suggest me to do, basing on the above observation? Thank you.

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  • DVI splitter not working as expected/confusion between DVI-D and -I

    - by Freakishly
    Hey guys, thanks for looking. I have an ATI FirePro™ V3700 in my desktop machine, and I have been running a dual-monitor setup quite effortlessly, thanks to the two DVI ports on the card. I came upon a third monitor, and wanted to extend my desktop to 3 screens, so I purchased a DVI splitter from Amazon. Now, I can only duplicate the second monitor onto the third, not extend it. I've tried all possible combinations of input to no avail. Here's the setup: The ATI FirePro™ V3700 has two Dual-Link DVI-I outputs The splitter splits a single Dual-Link DVI-I port into two Dual-Link DVI-I outputs Two of the monitors are NEC E222W, and the third monitor is a Dell 2001FP. Each monitor has one D-Sub and one Dual-Link DVI-D input. Cables going from the video card to the monitors are two Dual-Link DVI-D to the NECs and one Single-Link DVI-D to the Dell. Is the problem likely with the DVI-D/DVI-I mismatch? Or is it with the cable on the Dell that is only a Single-Link? The cables are easily replaceable, the monitors not so much. Thanks for your time, I really appreciate it. http://www.amd.com/us/products/workstation/graphics/ati-firepro-3d/v3700/Pages/v3700-specs.aspx http://www.amazon.com/Cables-Unlimited-DVI-D-Splitter-PCM-2260/product-reviews/B000H09RFM/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1 www dot newegg dot com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824002495 accessories dot us dot dell dot com/sna/PopupProductDetail.aspx?cs=19&l=en&c=us&sku=320-1578 Apologies for the fudged links, I'm new here and they won't let me post more than two :P

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  • Can you help me understand my SATA/RAID options?

    - by andrz_001
    I've a gigabyte GA-M720-US3 motherboard. Recently, I noticed the following during boot: IDE channel 0 Master (none) IDE channel 0 Slave (none) IDE channel 2 Master (my hdd) IDE channel 2 Slave (my dvd drive) IDE channel 3 Master (none) IDE channel 3 Slave (none) Of course, the same information is contained in the BIOS/CMOS. The HDD is connected to the mobo via a SATA(2?) cable at the port(?) labeled SATA2_0. The DVD drive is connected by a similar cable at SATA2_1. Why doesn't the information displayed during the boot and in BIOS reflect how I plugged the cables in? I mean, why "none" for channel 0 when there is something in SATA2_0. (or is that serious naivete on my part!?) Where's Channel 1 master and slave? Since these are SATA cables and not the IDE ribbons from a time ago, why the whole master/slave declaration during boot and in BIOS? Should my BIOS reflect the fact that these are SATA cables? I mean, in BIOS, should the "Onchip SATA mode IDE" be set to RAID or AHCI instead of IDE? Any replies, answers, suggestions, links, tips will be much appreciated. Thank you in advance!

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  • Stack Managed Switches over a distance

    - by Joel Coel
    We have several buildings with stacked switches, where the distance between the stacked units is considerable... separate floors, or at opposite ends of a hallway. They are 3Com switches that stack using cat6 cabling. These switches are coming up on 12 years old now, and as I look around at replacements it seems no one supports this scenario any more. Stacking switches want to use fiber links (it more for me to run and terminate the fiber stacking cables than to purchase the switch) or other custom cables that seem only intended to jump up to the next unit in a rack. What have others done to support stacking over a distance? I'm considering breaking up the stacked switches into separate managed entities and just bridging from the root switch in the buildings, but I'd really like to avoid that for what I hope are obvious reason. The closest thing I've found are from netgear that use hdmi cables for the stacking connection... I could try to support that by running an additional cat6 line and re-terminating both links into a single hdmi port, but I have concerns over that approach as well.

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  • Weird Network Behavior of Home Router

    - by Stilgar
    First of all I would like to apologize because what you are going to read will be long and confusing but I am fighting this issue for 3 days now and am out of ideas. At home I have the following setup 50Mbps Internet connects into a home router A 2 desktop computers connect to router A via standard FTP LAN cables including one where the cable is ~20m long. a second router B connects to router A via standard FTP LAN cable X (~20m long). several devices connect to the wireless network of router B and there are a couple of desktop computers connected to it through FTP LAN cables. For some reason computers connected to router B when it is connected via cable X have very slow Internet connection. It is like 5 times slower than what is expected. This is the actual problem I am trying to solve. Interesting facts If a computer is connected to cable X directly instead of through router B the Internet speed is just fine (up to the 50Mbps I get from the ISP). Tested with two computers. I have tried replacing router B with another router C and the problem persists. If I connect router B via another cable to the same ports with the same settings everything seems to work fine and computers connected to router B have quite fast Internet I have tested mainly via Speedtest.net but I have also achieved similar speeds when downloading a file The upload speed is quite higher than the download speed in all cases. Note that my ISP usually has higher upload speed (unless it manages to hit the 50Mbps cap) It seems like the speed when connecting through router B with cable X is reduced 4-5 times no matter what the original speed is. For example via router B I get 10Mbps speed to local servers where I get 50Mbps when connected on router A. If I use a distant server where the ISP is only able to provide 25Mbps I get 4-5Mbps on router B. WiFi is slower than LAN on both routers (which is normal) but the reduced speed is reduced proportionally for WiFi. In addition the upload speed is normally higher from the ISP and it is also reduced proportionally. I have tried two different network configurations. One where I have NAT behind NAT where router B connects to router A via the WAN port and has its own DHCP. Second where router B connects to router A via standard LAN port and has DHCP disabled. In this configuration router B serves as a switch and the Network Gateway for computers connected to router B is the internal IP address of router A. Both configurations work just fine but both manifest the reduced speed issue. pings seem to work just fine As far as I can tell none of the cables is crossed The RJ45 setup for cable X orange orange-white brown brow-white blue blue-white green green-white This is a big problem for me since cable X passes through walls and floors and is very hard to replace. I also may have gotten some of the facts wrong because I am almost going crazy with this issue and testing includes going several floors up and down the staircase. One hypothesis I came up with is that the cable is defective in such a way that the voltage from the router affects its performance. When it is connected to a computer it performs just fine but the router has less power. Related hypothesis includes the cable being affected by electricity cables in the walls when the voltage is low. (I know nothing about electricity) So any ideas what to do, what to test or what the issue may be?

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  • What does it mean when ARP shows <incomplete> on eth1

    - by Geoff Dalgas
    We have been using HAProxy along with heartbeat from the Linux-HA project. We are using two linux instances to provide a failover. Each server has with their own public IP and a single IP which is shared between the two using a virtual interface (eth1:1) at IP: 69.59.196.211 The virtual interface (eth1:1) IP 69.59.196.211 is configured as the gateway for the windows servers behind them and we use ip_forwarding to route traffic. We are experiencing an occasional network outage on one of our windows servers behind our linux gateways. HAProxy will detect the server is offline which we can verify by remoting to the failed server and attempting to ping the gateway: Pinging 69.59.196.211 with 32 bytes of data: Reply from 69.59.196.220: Destination host unreachable. Running arp -a on this failed server shows that there is no entry for the gateway address (69.59.196.211): Interface: 69.59.196.220 --- 0xa Internet Address Physical Address Type 69.59.196.161 00-26-88-63-c7-80 dynamic 69.59.196.210 00-15-5d-0a-3e-0e dynamic 69.59.196.212 00-21-5e-4d-45-c9 dynamic 69.59.196.213 00-15-5d-00-b2-0d dynamic 69.59.196.215 00-21-5e-4d-61-1a dynamic 69.59.196.217 00-21-5e-4d-2c-e8 dynamic 69.59.196.219 00-21-5e-4d-38-e5 dynamic 69.59.196.221 00-15-5d-00-b2-0d dynamic 69.59.196.222 00-15-5d-0a-3e-09 dynamic 69.59.196.223 ff-ff-ff-ff-ff-ff static 224.0.0.22 01-00-5e-00-00-16 static 224.0.0.252 01-00-5e-00-00-fc static 225.0.0.1 01-00-5e-00-00-01 static On our linux gateway instances arp -a shows: peak-colo-196-220.peak.org (69.59.196.220) at <incomplete> on eth1 stackoverflow.com (69.59.196.212) at 00:21:5e:4d:45:c9 [ether] on eth1 peak-colo-196-215.peak.org (69.59.196.215) at 00:21:5e:4d:61:1a [ether] on eth1 peak-colo-196-219.peak.org (69.59.196.219) at 00:21:5e:4d:38:e5 [ether] on eth1 peak-colo-196-222.peak.org (69.59.196.222) at 00:15:5d:0a:3e:09 [ether] on eth1 peak-colo-196-209.peak.org (69.59.196.209) at 00:26:88:63:c7:80 [ether] on eth1 peak-colo-196-217.peak.org (69.59.196.217) at 00:21:5e:4d:2c:e8 [ether] on eth1 Why would arp occasionally set the entry for this failed server as <incomplete>? Should we be defining our arp entries statically? I've always left arp alone since it works 99% of the time, but in this one instance it appears to be failing. Are there any additional troubleshooting steps we can take help resolve this issue? THINGS WE HAVE TRIED I added a static arp entry for testing on one of the linux gateways which still didn't help. root@haproxy2:~# arp -a peak-colo-196-215.peak.org (69.59.196.215) at 00:21:5e:4d:61:1a [ether] on eth1 peak-colo-196-221.peak.org (69.59.196.221) at 00:15:5d:00:b2:0d [ether] on eth1 stackoverflow.com (69.59.196.212) at 00:21:5e:4d:45:c9 [ether] on eth1 peak-colo-196-219.peak.org (69.59.196.219) at 00:21:5e:4d:38:e5 [ether] on eth1 peak-colo-196-209.peak.org (69.59.196.209) at 00:26:88:63:c7:80 [ether] on eth1 peak-colo-196-217.peak.org (69.59.196.217) at 00:21:5e:4d:2c:e8 [ether] on eth1 peak-colo-196-220.peak.org (69.59.196.220) at 00:21:5e:4d:30:8d [ether] PERM on eth1 root@haproxy2:~# arp -i eth1 -s 69.59.196.220 00:21:5e:4d:30:8d root@haproxy2:~# ping 69.59.196.220 PING 69.59.196.220 (69.59.196.220) 56(84) bytes of data. --- 69.59.196.220 ping statistics --- 7 packets transmitted, 0 received, 100% packet loss, time 6006ms Rebooting the windows web server solves this issue temporarily with no other changes to the network but our experience shows this issue will come back. Swapping network cards and switches I noticed the link light on the port of the switch for the failed windows server was running at 100Mb instead of 1Gb on the failed interface. I moved the cable to several other open ports and the link indicated 100Mb for each port that I tried. I also swapped the cable with the same result. I tried changing the properties of the network card in windows and the server locked up and required a hard reset after clicking apply. This windows server has two physical network interfaces so I have swapped the cables and network settings on the two interfaces to see if the problem follows the interface. If the public interface goes down again we will know that it is not an issue with the network card. (We also tried another switch we have on hand, no change) Changing network hardware driver versions We've had the same problem with the latest Broadcom driver, as well as the built-in driver that ships in Windows Server 2008 R2. Replacing network cables As a last ditch effort we remembered another change that occurred was the replacement of all of the patch cords between our servers / switch. We had purchased two sets, one green of lengths 1ft - 3ft for the private interfaces and another set of red cables for the public interfaces. We swapped out all of the public interface patch cables with a different brand and ran our servers without issue for a full week ... aaaaaand then the problem recurred. Disable checksum offload, remove TProxy We also tried disabling TCP/IP checksum offload in the driver, no change. We're now pulling out TProxy and moving to a more traditional x-forwarded-for network arrangement without any fancy IP address rewriting. We'll see if that helps.

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  • Machine Check Exception

    - by Karl Entwistle
    When trying to install ubuntu-12.04-desktop-amd64.iso from USB I get one of the following errors http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machine_Check_Exception states the error can occur due to -poorly fitted heatsink/computer fans (the same problem can happen with excessive dust in the CPU fan) -an overloaded internal or external power supply (fixable by upgrading) So I tried the following -Using rubbing alcohol to remove all the thermal paste from the CPU and heatsink, I then reseated the CPU after checking all the pins on the MOBO, everything seems fine. -Boot without the GPU to see if was the PSU that is being over stressed. -Removing all RAM apart from one stick and running a Memtest86 which it passed -Using Ubuntu 10.04.4 Desktop 64 bit (Different USB slots and USB sticks) -Using Ubuntu 12.04 Desktop 64 bit (Different USB slots and USB sticks) -Reset the BIOS using the Clear CMOS jumper -Removing all HD power cables and SATA cables -Updating the BIOS from F2 to F6 My PC is using the following parts. -Gigabyte GA-Z77-DS3H (F6 BIOS) -Intel Core i7 3770K 3.5GHz Socket 1155 -G-Skill 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1600Mhz RipjawsX Memory Kit CL9 (9-9-9-24) 1.5V -Be Quiet Shadow Rock Pro -Be Quiet Pure Power 730W Modular PSU -Sapphire HD 6870 1GB GDDR5 DVI HDMI DisplayPort PCI-E Graphics Card Any ideas?

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  • Router behind router network setup

    - by optimus
    My relative has bought a router instead of a switch which causes remote-access control issues on his network. His existing network has a 1st router where all PCs are connected via LAN cables. The 2nd router connnects to the 1st router and the remaining PCs are connected to the 2nd router via LAN cables. Normally, I would perform remote-access to help him out with some task. Now it seems all services behind the 2nd router are unavailable to me. How can I resolve this issue?

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  • New power supply and now HDDs are not recognized.

    - by Michael
    So I upgraded to a new X4 ULTRA power supply that was recommended to me by a local TigerDirect store. After installing it along with a new liquid cooling system, I booted it up and it automatically fried my CD Drive. After that I noticed that the OS wouldn't start and figured out that none of the 4 HDDs in my computer were being recognized by the BIOS. I feel them spool at a steady pace and have tried new cables and connections but to no avail. I triple checked all of the connections and cables and have no idea what is wrong. This isn't the first time I changed a PS or CPU cooling system but I am at a dead end. Any ideas, aside from buying a USB HDD reader and seeing if they are all fried? Also, this is a stock Gateway mobo with the mobo USB connections already dead. Could the new PS have fried the SATA connections??

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  • Asus V1S/V1V inverter cable

    - by Bill
    I have an Asus V1V, which is the same as the Asus V1S except for the video card. I have a problem where the screen will randomly lose brightness or flicker between being lit and not lit. The picture below is of the left hinge, with the cover removed. Pressing one of these cables affects this behaviour, and pressing it in place will resolve the issue for a few hours. To me this means the inverter cable is damaged. As the picture shows, there are two cables, an LCD cable and what I assume is an inverter cable. I purchased an LCD cable for my model of laptop, but have been unable to find an inverter cable. It seems not to exist. I would like some input on if an inverter cable actually exists, if it is likely the problem, or solutions in general to resolve this problem permanently.

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  • Cabling: What to keep in stock?

    - by pehrs
    I have worked a few different places, each one with a different solution, so I would like to hear your suggestions and ideas. I am looking at a situation with multiple server-rooms. We have a mixture of copper (both ethernet and telephone), multi-mode fibre and single-mode fibre. We have all types of connectors: RJ-11, RJ-45, LC, SC, FC, SMA and several I probably forgot about. We have a lot of people working in the area, and keeping track of cables is turning into a full time job. So, here are a the questions: What types and lengths of cable do you keep in stock on site? Do you make your own or buy pre-made? Adapters? Dampeners? How do you manage cable inventory? How do you label the cables? Any other tricks to stop this from driving me crazy?

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  • Mac Mini won't boot with USB Drive connected

    - by Jens
    Newbie here. I have a 2012 MacMini with 2 x 3Tb Seagate GoFlex Desk external hard drives. Both drives have their own power supplies and work perfectly. I use both MacOS and Windows7 on the Mac for different reasons. Both boot and work fine. The only problem is neither MacOS or Windows will boot while the two USB drives are connected. I must disconnect the USB cables, boot and reconnect them. Then all works fine. Its rather annoying since this is mostly a Media Centre and you really don't want to be playing with cables every day, and I don't leave my stuff on over night. Can anyone help? Thanks Jens

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  • Which video types are considered secure/trusted by Windows Vista Media Center?

    - by Page Brooks
    I've been working to set up a Windows Vista Media Center and I noticed that when I play certain DVDs, the video is scrambled. After watching this video, I think it is because Windows Vista considers Component Cables to be untrusted and therefore scrambles the video. The video says that VGA is a trusted video type, but I was curious of which other types are trusted? If I were to use a DVI to HDMI cable, would that be trusted? Edit: Scrambled as in: The video looks like a rainbow checkerboard. The audio plays as expected. I'm using component cables for the connection to my TV.

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  • Combo ports and SFP

    - by Tahir
    I have Netgear GSM7324s prosafe switch. Switch has 24x1G ports. 4 ports are labeled as combo ports while 2 are labeled as SFP ports. I connected 2 PCs (each having 1gig and 10Gig NICs), with the switch using 1 & 10 Gig cables. Whenever, I ping the PCs the pinging is not working. As soon as, I removed the 10G cables, the ping starts working. Can someone please explain that what's going on. Also it would be very helpful if you can tell me the concept of combo ports, SFP ports in easy words?

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