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  • Does a laptop with a GPU also use IGP?

    - by blee
    I have a Thinkpad T60 with dual screen setup: The laptop's LCD: Is normal looking. VGA external monitor: Looks "wavy," but I hooked it up to another computer and it looked fine. Does this imply my GPU is connected to the VGA-out and the built-in LCD is driven by IGP? Is this typically how a laptop with one GPU works? Thanks.

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  • How does a so-called "LED monitor" work?

    - by sharptooth
    Every here and there I hear about new LED monitors. I imagined that they were really LED monitors - that their screens were formed of multiple tiny LEDs that lit up in a controlled manner to form an image. Yet turns out they are LED backlit LCD monitors. What's the difference between this and a trusty Belinea 10 17 51 I've been using for the five years already?

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  • Are these components compatible and are there any significant bottlenecks?

    - by Tom Gullen
    I'm trying to buy a new pc, for software dev and a bit of gaming. I already have a 500gb HDD , and a PCI sound card I want to use as well. Is all this stuff compatible, and will it all work together and are there any significant bottlenecks? Case, Mobo and PSU "Primo Motion" AMD 880G DDR3 Ready Barebones (Socket AM3) http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FS-268-OK&groupid=43&catid=1817&subcat= SSD 64GB Crucial RealSSD C300 64GB 2.5" SATA 6Gb/s Solid State Hard Drive http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=HD-007-CR&groupid=1657&catid=1660&subcat=1668 CPU AMD Phenom II X6 Six Core 1090T Black Edition 3.20GHz (Socket AM3) http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CP-266-AM&groupid=701&catid=6&subcat=1944 RAM 8GB Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 PC3-15000C9 1866MHz Dual Channel Kit http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=MY-292-CS&groupid=701&catid=8&subcat=1387 Graphics XFX ATI Radeon HD 5770 1024MB GDDR5 PCI-Express Graphics Card http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=GX-149-XF

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  • How to test video card memory

    - by oki
    I want to test the memory of my video card because lastly there are vertical lines on my screen. I do some basic troubleshoot and it seems that the problem is in video card. Therefore, I want to validate the error at the video card by using a video card memory test program. I find one that is used for nvidia card with CUDA support, but my card is Nvidia GeForce 7600 without CUDA support.

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  • T60 Screen/LCD gets black after some minutes with a highpitched sound rising and fading

    - by Edward De Leau
    Just now my T60 screen got "black" (so no display). On my second monitor: no problems so the vga output works. symptom: Screen blanks / no display but works on second monitor steps to reproduce: - boot - wait (it does not matter what you do you do not have to login or anything) - (now the monitor of the laptop slowly begins to make a ssssssssHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHWOEOEssssssss noice of about 10 seconds) - right after the sounds ends the monitor gets black times seem to be the same each time. software: installed no new software before/after, running zone alarm and antivirus. other: it does not feel hot in any place, there dont seem to be running processes with strange behaviour. warranty: out of warranty what was i doing: typing text on a website and doing some php coding in a text editor. Anyone any idea what I can do here other than buy a new laptop? / does it sound familiar to known cases? update: * exactly the same problem: http://forums.lenovo.com/t5/T61-and-prior-T-series-ThinkPad/T60-Screen-Blackout/m-p/288772 and the second poster (garyj) here: http://forums.lenovo.com/t5/T61-and-prior-T-series-ThinkPad/Black-Screen-on-T60/m-p/235053#M48627 and here: "i have that same problem. i replaced the CCRL on mine and it works fine when the screen is not screwed in. once the frame of the LCD screen (metal portion) touches the metal on the laptop which holds the screen the screen goes black. If the metal is touching the screen when you boot up it boots up with it being very dimmly lit. " from http://forums.lenovo.com/t5/T61-and-prior-T-series-ThinkPad/T60-screen-problems/m-p/205047#M44995 (it seems replacing the lcd is no use, he tried it 3 times). same problem: http://forums.lenovo.com/t5/T61-and-prior-T-series-ThinkPad/T60-black-screen/m-p/80604#M25914 Hmmm... not handy 3 or 4 months ago I ordered and installed a new fan. Now the LCD. Which does not seem the core isse but some electric issue so it seems replacing the LCD is not the thing todo here. I have the following question: If it is not the LCD that needs to be replaced (see other threads) which parts can I order to fix this? Has anyone got any information which could lead me to identify the issue? I have read replacing the "inverter" AND the "backlightning" would that make sense?

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  • Should I buy matching hard drives for a NAS RAID 1 array?

    - by Jamie Ide
    I'm planning to buy a NAS (network attached storage) box and I've picked the Synology DS209. I want to set up a RAID 1 array and I'm wondering if I should buy a matching pair of hard drives or if it would be better to buy from different manufacturers. I'm concerned that a matching pair would be more likely to fail at the same time.

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  • DMZ and LAN on the same Windows Storage Server 2008 R2

    - by Sergei
    We are moving from EMC Celerra NS20 to Windows Storage Server 2008 R2. I would like to use deduplication feature in WSS (Single Instance Storage) for hosting data for our external FTP server.The idea is to use NFS server on WSS as datastore for Linux FTP server located in DMZ and CIFS services for servers in LAN. Using Celerra fileserver I was able to create multiple instances of fileservers with multiple virtual interfaces and separate filesystems so all data and networks would be separated. Would it be possible to do something similiar on WSS?

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  • How to install Red Hat Enterprise Linux on Apple Macbook Pro MacBookPro4,1

    - by Todd V. Rovito
    I have a one year old Mac Book Pro that I am trying to get RHEL 5.4 installed on via bootcamp. No matter what I do I can't get the installer to boot. I have tried multiple DVD's and even verified the install works on a new Mac Book Pro. Most of the time the installer simply locks up. I usually use Linux text with all-generic-ide on the boot line. I removed the ide parameter and I just used linux text. The results I get are that a bunch of kernel messages appear then the background turns blue and a thin text box pops up saying its loading ata..... something it disappears too fast for me to read. Then the machine freezes. I pressed the alt function keys to see if I could look at the system log, here is what it says: Alt-f3 says "trying to mount CD device hda" Alt-f4 says status error: hda: lastFailedSense Hda: Failed opcode was: unknown Hda: Lost interrupt Hda: Drive not ready for command Ide-cd: command 0x3 timed out Above this junk it looks like it found the partition because it knew it was 20 GB and listed as /dev/sda3. I think it has something to do with the CD drive, is that possible? Thanks again for the support. PS I posted in the apple support forums ( Apple.com Support Discussions Boot Camp Installation and Storage) and didn't get an answer.

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  • Building a PC for Work and play? [closed]

    - by Derek Organ
    Ok, Its been a long time since I build my own PC so I'm looking to get back into it again and build a new one. First off budget is about €800 excluding the monitor and windows 7 licence and mouse. (just bought a new g500) I plan on using my computer for work, lots of applications open at once but none particularly excessive (photoshop being the most demanding, mostly coding tools) I also use it for some gaming, e.g. COD, Starcraft etc. One thing I do want to do eventually is get a really good monitor with hight resolution and maybe 27" so the graphics card needs to be able to make best use of that. So a few questions 1) Is the bottle neck in performance mostly still the harddrives? 2) Aren't most processors e.g. i5 etc even i3 so far a head of other bottlenecks it makes litte difference the higher you go. Isn't the Graphics card dealing with heavy graphics so what really slows because of a slow CPU? So from this my thinking is to get a SSD drive as my primary drive for OS etc and have loads of memory e.g. 6-8GB and a decent mid level graphics card? It doesn't seem at my level worth spending much on CPU and any other parts really. I basic parts off the top of my head Case, Motherboard CPU SSD Drive SATA Drive Power Supply Memory Cooling (fan?) Graphics Card Network Card Keyboard DVD drive Mouse Windows Monitor Am I missing anything? Any helpful tips or general education much appreciated. Thanks, Derek

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  • How do you test if a PCI slot is working - motherboard diagnostic software?

    - by Adam
    I suspect that my motherboard is bad, and that my PCI-E slot is not working. I have a Gigabyte motherboard that had a Hauppage 2250 working fine in the PCI-E slot for many months. However - recently - would not get TV channels that I used to get --- until finally Media center cant detect any channels at all. Got a new tuner card (ATI 350 card) - cant detect any channels. The cable signal is good - I have it connected directly to a TV - all channels come in clear. SO that is why I suspect a motherboard problem. Are there any motherboard diagnostic scanner utilities that can verify I need a new motherboard

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  • Western Digital Smartware not detect External HDD

    - by romilnagrani
    Hi people, i recently buy WD Mybook Essential HDD 1 TB. I downloaded and install Smartware software in both my desktop (windows xp) and laptop (Windows 7) but in both case the s/w is not able to detect the external hard disc. It shows desktop/laptop (Whichever is apt) on left hand side of software but not the hard drive on right side. Why so? i need to install smartware s/w as my friend had gave me which i suppose had deleted the software. please help me thanks

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  • How to calculate RAM value on performance per dollar spent

    - by Stucko
    Hi, I'm trying to make decisions on buying a new PC. I have most specifications (processor/graphic card/hard disk) pin-downed except for RAM. I am wondering what is the best RAM configuration for the amount of money I'm spending. As the question of best is subjective, I'd like to know how would I calculate the value of RAM sticks sold. 1.(sample)The value of amount of memory: 1) CORSAIR PC1333 D3 2GB = costs $80 2) CORSAIR PC1333 D3 4GB = costs $190 would it be better to buy 2 of item 1) instead of 1 of item 2) ?? Although I would normally choose to have 1 of 2) as the difference is only (190-(80*2)) = 30 as I would save 1 DIMM slot, What I need is the value per amount: 1) 80/ 2 = $40 per 1GB 2) 190/ 4 = $47.5 per 1GB 2. The value of frequency: 1) CORSAIR PC1333 4GB = costs 190 2) CORSAIR PC1600C7 4GB = costs 325 Im not even sure of the denominator ... $ per 1 ghz speed? 3. The value of latency: 1) CORSAIR CMP1600C8 8-8-8-24 2GBx3 (triple channel) = costs 589 2) CORSAIR CMP1600C7D 7-7-7-20 2GBx3 (triple channel) = costs 880 Im not even sure of the denominator ... $ per 1 ghz speed? Just for your information i'd like to get the best out of the money im going to spend to put on a 6 DIMM slot i7core motherboard.

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  • Looking for a new backup solution to replace dying tape drive

    - by E3 Group
    We're running Windows Server 2003 SBS and another machine with Server 2003 Standard on it. The SBS server is about 7 years old running pretty much 24/7 - a HP server of some description. We have an Ultrium 448 cycling LTO2 400GB tapes daily and incrementally backing up approximately 100gb worth of data (20gb C:\ and system state, 40gb exchange, 40gb database for some crap marketing software) on BackupExec 10D. As of 5 months ago, the backups have been consistently failing with IO errors, bad reads and some write errors. When I say consistent, I mean every time and we haven't had a proper backup for the entire 5 months - So if the server explodes tomorrow, 7 years worth of data will just cease to exist. I've only just recently rejoined the company and am looking at rectifying the more concerning problems, so the first thing I did was try a backup to an USB2.0 external drive. It was excruciatingly slow. In fact it was so slow it took 40 hours and it still wasn't finished. I ended up cancelling it and reconfiguring the selections again to reduce file size. This, however, isn't a permanent solution. I concluded that the IO error was either from a faulty tape drive (which has a tape stuck in there right now and not coming out) or from a dying SCSI controller. Neither of them are good news and both are extremely expensive to fix. I'm operating on an extremely low budget so have been looking at outsourcing the backups. A company in Sydney (where I'm located) offer incremental online backups via a NAS. It costs almost double a new tape drive but offers monthly repayments which will let us get through times when cash flow is minimal. It seems like a sweet deal but it is still a little bit pricey. So I'm looking for a cheaper, yet reliable solution. Maybe some in-house NAS or something offsite? The idea is to avoid using tapes. Are there any recommendations for rectifying my current situation? Or are tapes the only way to go? I'm concerned that the server will die one day in the near future and I must be able to restore it to another server with different hardware.

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  • Few questions on dvd ram/rom

    - by Nrew
    Why other dvd rom/ram can read data from scratched disk and others cannot. For me its a comparison between LG and Lite On. Lite on, gets errors while reading disk with scratches. LG can read disk with scratches with no problems. Why is that? Is it possible to modify the software or the driver of the dvd rom so that it won't get errors when copying data from disk with scratches?

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  • Scan disk runs on every boot with Windows XP

    - by Sarfraz Ahmed
    I have four drives on my computer. The problem is that each time I start the computer the scan disk check (CHKDSK) runs for a drive even if I shut down my computer properly. I ran the thorough scan disk check but still for that drive, the scan disk check is always performed no matter what. I wonder what is wrong although everything is fine and accessible along with drive data. Could you guys please help me out of this? I am using Windows XP SP2. Thanks.

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  • Philips Monitor problems - vertical lines on screen

    - by asdasd
    I have an old CRT Philips Monitor 17'' and it was working well. There were problems with the electrical power and the monitor started to make some sound and a smoke was getting out of it. I quickly switched it off the power, and in the morning when the power was ok i started the monitor and it appeared to be working and it worked for a couple of minutes when i find out some smell was coming from it, and after 5 minutes the screen i was working shut down and on the monitor some vertical lines appeared - and nothing else. I thought it was the OS, so i rebooted the pc and while it was booting i realized the monitor didn't show the bios info etc, but the same vertical lines on the whole screen were on it, sometimes their color was changing and they were blinking, but no screen appeared - only those vertical lines. After a day, the monitor was ok again - i turned it on and no there were no lines, everything was working fine. The same for the next 2 days. My question is: If anyone had ever had the same problem, can you help me ? THe monitor may be ok now but i am afraid it can get back those lines again. I don't know what to do, if you know please tell me whether should i take it to the service or not. Thank you.

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  • Ctrl Button Sticks

    - by Mr Shoubs
    I am running windows XP, I have a MS Natural Erganomic Keyboard 4000 v1.0, now and again the Ctrl button will stick (not physically), usually in the process of changing to a different window. It happens around 6 or 7 times a day. Really annoying. I've changed Keyboards (same type). Anyone know how to prevent this from happening?

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  • Wireless driver activation problem in compaq c700 in ubuntu 9.04

    - by Fazil
    I am using ubuntu 9.04, i cant access my wireless driver, i activate the madwifi in administrationhardware drivers, but i could'nt activated the wireless too. when i type lspci i get the following message, ################################################## # 00:00.0 Host bridge: Intel Corporation Mobile PM965/GM965/GL960 Memory Controller Hub (rev 03) 00:02.0 VGA compatible controller: Intel Corporation Mobile GM965/GL960 Integrated Graphics Controller (rev 03) 00:02.1 Display controller: Intel Corporation Mobile GM965/GL960 Integrated Graphics Controller (rev 03) 00:1b.0 Audio device: Intel Corporation 82801H (ICH8 Family) HD Audio Controller (rev 04) 00:1c.0 PCI bridge: Intel Corporation 82801H (ICH8 Family) PCI Express Port 1 (rev 04) 00:1d.0 USB Controller: Intel Corporation 82801H (ICH8 Family) USB UHCI Controller #1 (rev 04) 00:1d.1 USB Controller: Intel Corporation 82801H (ICH8 Family) USB UHCI Controller #2 (rev 04) 00:1d.2 USB Controller: Intel Corporation 82801H (ICH8 Family) USB UHCI Controller #3 (rev 04) 00:1d.7 USB Controller: Intel Corporation 82801H (ICH8 Family) USB2 EHCI Controller #1 (rev 04) 00:1e.0 PCI bridge: Intel Corporation 82801 Mobile PCI Bridge (rev f4) 00:1f.0 ISA bridge: Intel Corporation 82801HEM (ICH8M) LPC Interface Controller (rev 04) 00:1f.1 IDE interface: Intel Corporation 82801HBM/HEM (ICH8M/ICH8M-E) IDE Controller (rev 04) 00:1f.2 SATA controller: Intel Corporation 82801HBM/HEM (ICH8M/ICH8M-E) SATA AHCI Controller (rev 04) 00:1f.3 SMBus: Intel Corporation 82801H (ICH8 Family) SMBus Controller (rev 04) 01:00.0 Ethernet controller: Atheros Communications Inc. AR242x 802.11abg Wireless PCI Express Adapter (rev 01) 02:01.0 Ethernet controller: Realtek Semiconductor Co., Ltd. RTL-8139/8139C/8139C+ (rev 10) ################################################## but when i tried in windows i found that the driver for my laptop is ################################################ atheros AR5007 802.11b/g WiFi Adapter ################################################ so what can i do for solving this problem.

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  • Computer makes hissing noise, turns off after few seconds

    - by Kaustubh P
    I have a problem similar to the questions posted here and here. This is my config: Asus M3N78-EM, with AMD Phenom X3 720 2800 Black Edition, 4GB Transcend DDR2 RAM, Nvidia 9400GT. HD is a 160 GB IDE, and a LG IDE DVD-ROM. The power button is a bit off, I have removed the cover of the switch, and the only way it turns on is just giving the "stick" under the cover a gentle press. It turns on sometimes, and at other times, I have to cut-off the power from the PSU, and try again. I will describe my problem in as detail as possible, please bear with me: The problem has started in the last week, a few months after I changed the to the powerswitch arrangement as described above. The PC makes a hissing noise, and I wasn't able to pin-point the noise source, because of the various other fans. At first, removing the HD, rebooting w/o the HD, turning it off, reconnecting and booting made the problem go away. But of late, it doesn't happen. As suggested in the other questions, I tried reducing the load by disconnecting both the IDE drives, and the problem (noise + turn-off) still occurs. I also connected another 80G IDE HD,today morning, adn it still made that noise, and turned off. I also opened up the PSU, but I couldn't see any fault in that, I tried rotating the fan by blowing into the blades, and with my fingers, but the hissing noise didn't come from there. Or maybe the speed wasn't enough to evoke that noise. A few weeks ago: I had cleaned the Cabinet and had repasted the processor and its fan using some thermal paste. Could that be at fault? I also used a vacuum to blow the dust out of the PSU, could the power have been too much, to maybe offset the fan or something? A label on the PSU says it uses a ball-bearing fan. That only leaves me with the Processor fan and the processor itself. I didn't try removing the processor fan and processor from the motherboard, and then turning the PC on, fearing damage. Will doing so cause any damage? What can I do to localize and pin-point the problem? Also, after a few tries, the Computer starts up. Sometimes it turns of within 2 seconds, sometimes after the POST. Once it turned off at the grub. Another time it booted completely and then turned off. The only way to ensure that the PC wont turn off, is if the hissing noise stops. EDIT: I suspect it to be the Processor/Processor fan, owing to the source of noise. All the config, except for the Cabinet, is just over a year old. EDIT2: I also just remembered, that I had set the "On-power resume" to turn on, i.e. If I supply he PC with power, it will turn itself on, w/o me needing to press the switch. I had done that to workaround the faulty power-switch, as noted above. EDIT3: I calculated the power my system needs, from the antec site, and I just arrived at 292W

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