Search Results

Search found 91854 results on 3675 pages for 'server hardware'.

facebook twitter digg google delicious technorati stumbleupon myspace wordpress linkedin gmail igoogle windows live tumblr viadeo yahoo buzz yahoo mail yahoo bookmarks favorites email print

Page 438/3675 | < Previous Page | 434 435 436 437 438 439 440 441 442 443 444 445  | Next Page >

  • Hard Drive Compatibility with Motherboard

    - by Wesley
    Here are the current specs to put things in context: ECS P4VXASD2+ V5.0 Intel Pentium 4 Northwood 2.8 GHz 2x 512MB PC2100 DDR266 SDRAM Maxtor DiamondMax 10 250 GB PATA (IDE) HDD Gigabyte 52x CD-ROM NVIDIA TNT2 Pro 16 MB OKIA 300W ATX PSU USB bracket Modem PCI Before, I actually had a 300 GB hard drive installed. However, I read the FAQ for the motherboard and discovered that a maximum of 250 GB hard drive was supported. So I ended up finding the one listed above and put that in. However, upon booting up, I reset the BIOS to defaults and auto-detected all the drives installed. The 250 GB came up as something like 251.0 GB. I didn't think much about it until I tried to boot up a Windows XP installation disc. It booted up successfully and run for about a minute before the computer randomly rebooted. I've made sure that all the jumpers and settings are correct and everything has been installed correctly. I've tried running it without the addons and one stick of RAM but still the same thing. What else could be causing this problem?

    Read the article

  • Simple electric DC question. Current consumption

    - by Bobb
    Suppose you have DC power supply and a consumer connected to it (i.e. computer PSU and a hard drive). Suppose PSU which was supplied with the consumer has output 5V 1A. So I assume that the consumer should not consume more than 1A. Suppose the original PSU is broken now and I want to replace it with the one I have which is 5V 10A. My guess is that current is something which depends on the consumer. So if the consumer consumes normally 1A then it will not consume more than that even if it is connected to 10A PSU. In other word - am I right assuming that the consumer will not burn out being connected to a power supply with higher current output? P.S. my understanding is that voltage is something independent from the consumer. If you give it higher voltage it will burn (voltage is from PSU to the consumer). However current must be in opposite - consumer sucks as much current as it need not as much as PSU can provide (of course given that max PSU current is greater than the consumer needs)

    Read the article

  • Windows 8 isn't detecting PS3 eye

    - by JonFriesen
    I have the PS3 Eye web cam installed with drivers from Code Laboratories, which comes with a test program. When I open the test program it shows a clear picture from the webcam. Every other program does not detect a webcam. The cam shows in my device manager and as installed correctly. My question is, is there a flag or something like that I can set that will show Windows 8 that this device is in fact a camera and is working. Here is a picture of the test program that comes loaded with the drivers and the windows 8 camera app. Thanks for the help! **Here is a pic, I can't integrated because I haven't posted enough on superuser :P http://i48.tinypic.com/6qyw6t.png

    Read the article

  • Why are my USB 2.0 devices hanging Windows XP?

    - by BenAlabaster
    Background on the machine I'm having a problem with: The machine was inherited and appears to be circa 2003 (there's a date stamp on the power supply which leads me to this conclusion). I've got it set up as a Skype terminal for my 2 year old to keep in touch with her grandparents and other members of the family - which everyone loves. It has a generic ATX motherboard with no identifying markings other than one stamp that says "Rev.B". CPU-Z identifies the motherboard model as VT8601 but doesn't provide me with any manufacturer name. On board it has 1 x 10/100 LAN, 2 x USB 1.0, VGA, PS/2 for KB and mouse, parallel port, 2 x serial ports, 2 x IDE, 1 x floppy, 2 x SDRAM slots, 1 x CPU housing that is seating a 1.3GHz Intel Celeron CPU, 3 x PCI, 1 x AGP - although you can only use 2 of the PCI slots if you use the AGP slot due to the physical layout of the board. It's got 768Mb PC133 SDRAM - 1 x 512Mb & 1 x 256Mb installed as well as a D-LINK WDA-2320 54G Wi-Fi network card and a generic USB 2.0 expansion board containing 3 x external + 1 x internal USB connectors - it has a NEC uPD720102 chipset. It has a DVD+/-RW running as master on IDE1 and a 1.44Mb 3.5" floppy drive connected to the floppy connector. It has an 80Gb Western Digital hard drive running as master on IDE0. All this is sitting in a slimline case. I don't know the wattage of the PSU, but can post this later if this proves to be helpful. The motherboard is running a version of Award BIOS for which I don't have the version number to hand but can again post this later if it would be helpful. The hard disk is freshly formatted and built with Windows XP Professional/Service Pack 3 and is up to date with all current patches. In addition to Windows XP, the only other software it's running is Skype 4.1 (4.2 hangs the whole machine as soon as it starts up, requiring a hard boot to recover). It's got a Daytek MV150 15" touch screen hooked up to the on board VGA and COM1 sockets with the most current drivers from the Daytek website and the most current version of ELO-Touchsystems drivers for the touch component. The webcam is a Logitech Webcam C200 with the latest drivers from the Logitech website. The problem: If I hook any devices to the USB 2.0 sockets, it hangs the whole machine and I have to hard boot it to get it back up. If I have any devices attached to the USB 2.0 sockets when I boot up, it hangs before Windows gets to the login prompt and I have to hard boot it to recover. Workarounds found: I can plug the same devices into the on board USB 1.0 sockets and everything works fine, albeit at reduced performance. I've tried 3 different kinds of USB thumb drives, 3 different makes/models of webcams and my iPhone all with the same effect. They're recognized and don't hang the machine when I hook them to the USB 1.0 but if I hook them to the USB 2.0 ports, the machine hangs within a couple of seconds of recognizing the devices were connected. Attempted solutions: I've seen suggestions that this could be a power problem - that the PSU just doesn't have the wattage to drive these ports. While I'm doubtful this is the problem [after all the motherboard has the same standard connector regardless of the PSU wattage], I tried disabling all the on board devices that I'm not using - on board LAN, the second COM port, the AGP connector etc. through the BIOS in what I'm sure is a futile attempt to reduce the power consumption... I also modified the ACPI and power management settings. It didn't have any noticeable affect, although it didn't do any harm either. Could the wattage of the PSU really cause this problem? If it can, is there anything I need to be aware of when replacing it or do I just need to make sure it's got a higher wattage than the current one? My interpretation was that the wattage only affected the number of drives you could hook up to the power connectors, is that right? I've installed the USB card in another machine and it works without issue, so it's not a problem with the USB card itself, and Windows says the card is installed and working correctly... right up until I connect a device to it. The only thing I haven't done which I only just thought of while writing this essay is trying the USB 2.0 card in a different PCI slot, or re-ordering the wi-fi and USB cards in the slots... although I'm not sure if this will make any difference - does anyone have any experience that would suggest this might work? Other thoughts/questions: Perhaps this is an incompatibility between the USB 2.0 card and the BIOS, would re-flashing the BIOS with a newer version help? Do I need to be able to identify the manufacturer of the motherboard in order to be able to find a BIOS edition specific for this motherboard or will any version of Award BIOS function in its place? Question: Does anyone have any ideas that could help me get my USB 2.0 devices hooked up to this machine? Edit: Updated the USB 2.0 info with reference to actual card - http://www.xpcgear.com/lpnec4u.html

    Read the article

  • How do I connect to my InterBase db on a Windows Server from Delphi XE?

    - by chris
    I have installed InterBase on a Windows Server 2008, added a database through IBConsole and I'm trying to set up a connection to it from Delphi XE. I've clicked on the DataExplorer tab and right clicked "INTERBASE/Add New Connection". This is where I am having trouble setting it up correctly. Anyone know this stuff? I'm waaaay out of my comfort zone here but I'm helping some people out and I'm trying to get this to work myself so that I hopefully can fix the problems they are having.

    Read the article

  • Dual SMTP Server issue with Unicast Network Load Balancing

    - by Igor K
    Using two servers with NLB, each box contains IIS and a mail server. Server1 is the primary Server2 runs the backup mail server The problem is the web app sends email to ourselves. When mail is sent from Server2 (via its own SMTP server) to ourselves, it tries to contact Server1, as its the mail server IP. But under Unicast mode of NLB, it cant reach the host via the public dedicated IP address. How can we get round this?

    Read the article

  • HP Pavilion dv6000 QuickPlay power on

    - by user22559
    Hello I have a question for HP Pavilion dv6000 owners. If your laptop is powered down, and you press the QuickPlay button or the DVD button (NOT the power button), does the laptop start up? More info: I am asking this because I have got a hold of a broken HP dv6000. If I power it up, the power light lights up, and then the laptop powers down. It seems to be because of a broken motherboard. But the laptop does the same thing if you press the QuickPlay or DVD buttons, and I want to know if that's supposed to happen, or if it's something else that is wrong.

    Read the article

  • Adding a new USB port inside a Macbook Pro

    - by MikeC8
    I have a USB Dongle that I'd like to put inside my Macbook Pro. I have already found a spot that will fit the dongle. The next question is splicing one of the USB ports and connecting it to the dongle. Here's a photograph of the inside of my Macbook Pro, showing the USB ports and a little gray plastic divider with four holes in it above each port. http://min.us/mvoQEem My question: Does anyone know what is inside these holes? Presumably each one is a pin for the USB port, right? Can I just stick a wire in there, giving me 4 pins, plus the fifth attached to the metal outside the port? More generally, any one have any ideas for what might be the easiest way to get a USB port inside my MBP? :) Thanks!

    Read the article

  • Video card not detected in POST on initial boot.

    - by Jeff M
    I have a minor problem with my desktop computer after cleaning it out for dust. When I first boot up the computer, the video card does not get detected so I can't see anything. In POST, I'm getting the "can't detect video card" beeps. The boot sequence continues normally, just without video. However, if I restart it (using the restart button) anytime after POST, it would boot up normally. I have no reason to think that the motherboard, video card or PSU got damaged in the process. It was working fine before, works fine after resetting. Took all the necessary precautions while cleaning. On the initial boot, I can hear the video card's fan power up but immediately power down and try again one more time only to fail. After the beep, resetting gets everything running and sounding normally. I've reseated the card a couple of times and reset the BIOS but doesn't seem to help. I'm hoping I won't have to take it out and remove and reinstall everything again. Does anyone recognize these symptoms to know exactly what the problem is? My guess is that the video card isn't getting enough juice initially to be running stable to be detected. I just don't know what I did (or didn't do) to get it to be in this state. It's not a high priority thing for me at the moment, just means I have to always reset it after initially turning it on but will eventually remove everything and reinstall if it comes to that. I don't think the specs are relevant here but just in case, here's the relevant stuff: Motherboard: Gigabyte P35-DS3P Video: EVGA GeForce 8600 GTS PSU: Antec True Power Trio 650W Built ~2 years ago, still running well

    Read the article

  • 3 wire computer fan won't run continuously

    - by Ben
    I had an old computer that didn't work anymore, so I took the CPU fan out to see what I could make with it. The fan is NMB model number BG0903-B044-VTL, like this. It has three wires coming off of it, red, black, and white. I know that the white wire is usually a speed sensor. Does this wire need to be connected to something in order for the fan to run continuously? Right now when I apply power to the red and black wires (from a 9-volt battery) the fan will spin very briefly, and then slow down until it stops. The fan's motor only spins in the instant that the power is turned on, but doesn't continue, even though the power is still applied. How can I get the fan to spin continuously?

    Read the article

  • Is there a USB ethernet (wired) adapter that is really compatible with Windows 7 64-bit?

    - by nbolton
    I've checked the Windows 7 compatibility site, and it lists a fair few USB ethernet (wired, not wireless) adapters that should work with Windows 7 64-bit. However, whenever I Google for the model number and Windows 7 64-bit, there's many forum posts claiming that the devices actually don't work with 64-bit (but do work with 32-bit). I've actually also found this with the LUPO USB ethernet adapter; works with 32-bit win7, but not 64-bit (no drivers available). So is there anyone out there who is 100% certain, and have actually used successfully, a 64-bit win7 capable USB ethernet adapter?

    Read the article

  • How does one go about fixing a pixelation issue?

    - by Tyler
    I've been having a lot of trouble with pixelation and also in-game display driver crashes. At first I thought the problem may have been my graphics card (Sapphire 5750) but I have RMA'd it three times and I'm still having trouble. So what I think it might be is my PSU, its 650Watt but its made by Azza so it was cheap and not made by a necessarily good company. Or maybe it could be the CPU (AMD Phenom Black Edition 3.4Ghz) It runs hot (60C) but it passes Everest's test. Someone told me it could be the memory (8GB DDR3) but I don't really see how RAM has anything to do with my problem. So what are some of you suggestions? Here is a video a made awhile ago of what is happening. http://www.metacafe.com/watch/4392213/ati_radeon_5750/ That was just a stress test most games tend to just freeze and crash or lock my system up.

    Read the article

  • Jumbo Frames on DIR-655

    - by Spookyone
    Hello, I am trying to set up jumbo frames on my gigabit home LAN but no luck so far. My setup is: D-Link DIR-655 router, HW Revision A3, Firmware 1.21 EU Synology DS107+, Firmware 3.0-1337 Laptop w/ Win7 x64, external PCIx NIC managed by "Generic Marvel Yukon 88E8053 based Ethernet Controller" The router is supposed to support jumbo frames but doesn't feature any relevant setting. I set the Jumbo Packet value to 9000 on both the NIC and the Synobox but it doesn't work, ping -f -l 8972 says "Packet needs to be fragmented but DF set". Is there any other setting I overlooked, the DIR-655 doesn't actually support jumbo frames, or what else could be the problem?

    Read the article

  • Dell Vostro Desktop error.

    - by goldenmean
    Faced a strange situation at work today. We have people sitting at a table on opposite sides, with power cables underneath the table. This morning when the person sitting opposite to me banged his feet on ground, it disturbed the power cable to my PC and it turned-off. So when I turned it on, it says, "No boot device found" Press F1 to setup or F5 to perform test... There was no physical impact/crash/fall of the desktop cabinet, which could have crashed/damaged the hard disk physically. EDIT: The OS is Windows 7 So I tried to recognize it in the Bios setup, but even there it could not find the SATA disk that is connected to this machine. So then I opened the cabinet, removed the power supply and plugged it back again. Tried to reboot, same error, "Boot device not found" It is not recognizing the hard disk. Any ideas about what might be wrong? Hard-disk crash, OS Crash(But it doesn't even go to the point of loading the disk after the initial Bios execution, so doubt this...) Any pointers about how I should proceed to troubleshoot/solve this error are welcome.

    Read the article

  • How cpu writes data to dynamic RAM

    - by Krit
    Hello, I would like to know what kind of electrical signals does a cpu send to a dynamic RAM when it wants to write one bit (a 1 or 0). Is it simply that cpu sends just a single electric pulse, and if that electric pulse's voltage is higher than a certain level, it charges the capacitor to a voltage level that is "1" and if it is at a lower voltage band, it charges capacitor to level that it is "0"?

    Read the article

  • Broken Motherboard Trace

    - by CoffeeBean
    When you're fairly certain that a motherboard trace is broken near the CPU (i.e.: you suspect heatsink / fan was improperly inserted) is it advisable to attempt a repair? I've heard that it can be done using a substance for repairing embedded windshield defoggers. Has anyone had any experience with this?

    Read the article

  • New video card? [closed]

    - by TutorialPoint
    I ran into some problems with my ATI Radeon x1200. I want it to support vertex shader 3.0, but it only does 2.0. This is because Call of Duty: Modern Warfare 2 only works with 3.0. So, I want a new video card. Can someone help me, with a more clean look to it? I bet if I would stick to some seller, I would end up with a video card that does not support what I want, or is too expansive. I really do not want it to be above $75, if possible. Some info about my PC: Manufacter: XXODD Processor: AMD Athlon64 X2 DualCore 4000+ 2Ghz (but running currently 32 bit OS) ATI Radeon X1200 video card (the problem) 1 GB RAM DDR2 MS-7367 Motherboard Windows 7 Ultimate OS 32-Bit Build 7600 RTM

    Read the article

  • I have been told to accept one error with Memtest86+

    - by DustByte
    Bought a new computer back in August with 4x4 GB RAM. Had problems with the RAM. They sent me four new sticks, which also generated errors. Singled out four sticks (from the eight I now had) that didn't generate any errors. Discovered by coincident a new RAM error last week (this time no BSOD). Contacted the company. According to them there have been issues with a bad stock from last summer so I got two tested 8 GB sticks sent to me. Been running Memtest86+ over the weekend. After 20 hours I got an error (see attached photo). The test has now been running for 37 hours but so far only this one error. I contacted the company where I bought the computer. They wrote back: I wouldn't worry about hat one fail. We have had similar situations here whereby it passes numerous times but then fails once. We think it's an issue with memtest, after all memory is faulty or it isn't so you can't really have it pass a few times, fail the next time around and then pass again! Please trust me on this and continue with the memory we sent you and if your problems continue we'll look at getting it replaced again. I gather from other forum posts that many people do not accept a single error. What could this single error signify, faulty RAM or a glitch in the MEMTEST program (or other)? Update: From the helpful comments below I conclude that an occasional (and rare) "random" error could occur and be acceptable, but repeated errors at the same address would indicate malfunction. Memtest has now run for 45 hours and I still have only one error. For everyone's information, I will keep running the test. In less than two days I am going away for a month. I will most likely leave Memtest running. As I do not have a UPS there is a risk that a power outage will ruin the experiment. The computer is a desktop so I cannot bring it with me (which would curiously have exposed it to more cosmic rays as I will be flying ;)).

    Read the article

  • Do most front and rear USB connections deliver the same power and performance?

    - by Bratch
    I was reading this Three Monitors For Every User and there were some comments about rear USB ports being able to deliver more power than front USB ports because they are directly connected to the motherboard and closer to the power supply (by circuit board runs). Even though the front USB ports may have connectors farther from the power supply, and there are cables from the motherboard to the front ports, I think that the difference in power would be negligible (unless the case is over 5 meters long). Anyone know for sure if they are the same or different? Note that I'm not talking about an older case where the front might have been USB 1.1 and the rear USB 2.0. A modern case would have USB 2.0 on all ports. And of course using a powered hub would deliver plenty of power.

    Read the article

  • Simple electric DC question. Currency consumption

    - by Bobb
    Suppose you have DC power supply and a consumer connected to it (i.e. computer PSU and a hard drive). Suppose PSU which was supplied with the consumer has output 5V 1A. So I assume that the consumer should not consume more than 1A. Suppose the original PSU is broken now and I want to replace it with the one I have which is 5V 10A. My guess is that current is something which depends on the consumer. So if the consumer consumes normally 1A then it will not consume more than that even if it is connected to 10A PSU. In other word - am I right assuming that the consumer will not burn out being connected to a power supply with higher current output? P.S. my understanding is that voltage is something independent from the consumer. If you give it higher voltage it will burn (voltage is from PSU to the consumer). However current must be in opposite - consumer sucks as much current as it need not as much as PSU can provide (of course given that max PSU current is greater than the consumer needs)

    Read the article

  • Can a UPS give off an EM field capable of interfering with desktop components?

    - by Magsol
    I own an APC Back-UPS ES 750; it's about 4 years old, and is the only major component remaining in a question that has been boggling me for the last 18 months. (Yep, I originally posted this question about the possessed desktop, and while I marked a solution and closed the question, a week later the same problem returned) I've tried plugging the desktop straight into the wall (but left the other components plugged into the UPS) and the desktop still froze. Is it possible that the EM field generated by the UPS is interfering with my desktop components and causing these otherwise-unpredictable system freezes? To me this sounds like a long shot, but aside from my twin LCD monitors, that just about takes care of all the major components.

    Read the article

facebook twitter digg google delicious technorati stumbleupon myspace wordpress linkedin gmail igoogle windows live tumblr viadeo yahoo buzz yahoo mail yahoo bookmarks favorites email print

< Previous Page | 434 435 436 437 438 439 440 441 442 443 444 445  | Next Page >