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• How do I get a Wireless N PCi card to connect to a wireless G router?

  - by Andy

  I'm having some problems setting up a new wireless PCI card on a WinXP SP3 PC. I know that the router is configured correctly. It is a Linksys WRT54GL, using 802.11b/g. Security mode is WPA2 Personal with TKIP+AES encryption. I am able to connect to this fine using my laptop (first gen MacBook with a 802.11b built in card). The new PCI card is also Linksys, but it supports 802.11n. Card seems to be installed ok (Windows sees it fine, doesn't list any errors in Device Manager), however when it scans for available wireless networks it can't find my wireless network (the router is set to broadcast the SSID). I tried to enter the network SSID manually, but that didn't seem to help. I chose WPA2-PSK for network authentication. The only options for encryption are TKIP or AES - I've tried both, neither worked. I am sure that I typed in my wireless key correctly. At this point, I don't think the problem is with encryption, but something else. It almost seems like I need to switch the wireless card into g mode, but I haven't found a way to do that (if that is even possible/necessary - I thought n was fully backwards compatible with g). Also, the PC is in the same room as the router, and my laptop, so I don't think that it is an interference issue. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong? I'm running out of things to try at this point. :(

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• SPDIF passthrough not working in Windows 7

  - by adriangrigore

  Hi, I'm running Windows 7 on a computer with an Audigy Platinum eX sound card connected to a surround receiver via optical cabling. Sound works fine when listening to non-surround audio sources, such as windows sounds or MP3. However, when I view a DVD in Media Center and the SPDIF passthrough kicks in, I can only hear an awful noise instead of the movie soundtrack. Also, the receiver does not show the Dolby Digital or DTS symbol, but stays at Dolby Prologic, so it seems it doesn't identify the sound encoding properly. I could switch off SPDIF passthrough and use the sound card's decoder instead, but that's not an option for me since it would create more problems with regular MP3 playback via additional Stereo Receiver which is also connected to the same sound card. I've tried both the default Audigy drivers that come with Windows 7 and the latest drivers from the Soundblaster website, but the problem remains unchanged. Also, I have ensured that the receiver's Dolby Digital decoder is not broken by successfully connecting it to my PS3 to view a Dolby Digital DVD. Besides, SPDIF passthrough was working fine in Vista before I upgraded to Windows 7. Is there anything else I could try?

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• No OS will boot, all freeze

  - by Gyan

  This is for a computer with the following configuration: Asus P5KPL-AM/PS motherboard Pentium D 820 (dual core 2.8 GHz) 1 x 2 GB DDR2-800 Transcend RAM 1 SATA2 Samsung 160 GB HDD 1 PATA LG CD/DVD Writer PS/2 generic Keyboard USB Razer mouse The computer was working fine till a month ago with a Hitachi HDD in place of the Samsung. But that drive died and I sent it in for warranty replacement. Since then and till last week, the computer had not been turned on. I then got hold of a spare but XPSP2-loaded Samsung drive from another computer and decided to get this computer temporarily running. However, when I tried to boot into XP, it didn't load. It got stuck at the first graphical screen. When trying Safe Mode, the file list would be updated up to diskio.sys and then freeze. If I tried to boot Kubuntu off a CD, I would get past the first menu, but then get stuck at the subsequent graphical interface in the loading process. A similar thing happend with a friend's Windows XP-on-a-pen-drive. I switched the RAM into the other slot, but no luck. Then I booted the Ultimate Boot CD and ran Memtest86+ and a couple of the bundled CPU stress tests but these detected no errors. Some searching on the Internet brought up the notion of the CPU failing to switch from "real" to "protected mode". I'm hoping to get a fix on what the problem is and what I can do about it. Edit: I've flashed to the latest BIOS, but that doesn't help. Also, Knoppix LiveCD also freezes. I notice that the LED in my mouse goes off at the time of freeze, but trying to boot without the mouse connected produces the same result.

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• Intel D2500HN Atom D2500 Doesn't turn on

  - by David W

  I recently bought parts from Amazon to build an embedded PC, and have assembled everything. I have: Intel D2500HN Mini-ITX Motherboard Mini-Box Pico-PSU 80 M350 Universal Min-ITX Enclosure 2GB DDR3 Memory Kinamax AD-LCD12 LCD Monitors 12V 6A 72W AC Adapter Power Supply The motherboard gets a light (on the motherboard, not on the Pico-PSU) when I plug it into the power adapter. Furthermore, I see the power switch light come on when I press the power button. However, the display doesn't turn on, and it doesn't seem that the PC is actually turned on. Since I'm seeing these lights, I know that the motherboard is getting power. Furthermore, the display VGA port is embedded into the motherboard, so that's not the issue. I'm just trying to figure out what COULD be the issue aside from a faulty motherboard. I have a diagram of the D2500HN motherboard which labels everything, and have ensured that the power LED as well as the On/Off cables are plugged into the right spots, although to be sure I've tried flipping these two cables around, and also plugging 1 cable into the other cable's spot & vice-versa. Is there anything else you folks think I may be missing, or anything else I can do to try to troubleshoot this issue before sending the motherboard back?

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• EEE PC dropbox server running 24/7

  - by microspino

  I'd like to create a mini dropbox and print server on a small soho network of 5 users (all of them use windows XP desktops). The device need to run 24/7 or at least 12/7 (I can accept just workday hours too but the other two options would be better). Dropbox mini server: I mean I will have a 90gb dropbox on every computer on my network LAN syncing with It and the one onto It syncing to the web. Print Server: I have Samsung SCX 4521F (fax/print/scan/copy), Samsung ML2010, HP Laser jet P1006, HP Color Laserjet CP1215, HP Office jet pro K8600, HP Design jet 500. All of them now are connected using little print servers and I want to get rid of them hooking everything to this mini server. The fax/print/scan/copy machine need to stay connected to a PC to make me able to use the software that comes with It. The mini server would save me on this too. Fax/Scan server: since I have the above mentioned fax/print/scan/copy machine I would like to make people use It from/to their computers through the mini server. I thought to a recent EEEBOX machine because I heard good things about ATOM cpus and because It seems that a recent BIOS version could switch It off and on autonomously. I'd like to listen some advice from You. Best of all would be: If You have something similar running for a long time If You disagree with this hardware choice and If You would suggest some other device. If You see any issues with my printing setup Anything else ;) My budget is from Zero (using right sw to build something on top on a old PC) to 500€ max.

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• Computer Comparison - which is "better"

  - by David Murdoch

  A company I work with recently replaced their old server and gave it to me. Their old server is a Dell PowerEdge 2600. I've been playing with the machine and even installed Windows Server 2008 on it...and it seems to run it pretty well. Here are the specs for the two machines: Dev Machine: AMD Athlon64 3000+ 2.38 GHz (overclocked from 1.8GHz [@ 280x8.5] - it is stable-ish) Memory (RAM): 1x1GB OCZ PC3200 (Dual-Channel) 300GB HD OS: Windows XP Pro (32bit) SuperPi 1M digit test: 40 seconds Dell PowerEdge 2600 Server: Intel Xeon CPU 2.8GHz 2.8GHz Memory (RAM): 512MBx2 (PC2700, not dual channel) 68GB HD (RAID 5) OS: Windows Server 2000 (32bit) SuperPi 1M digit test: 56 seconds [using 1 processor] (Themes and Aero-Flass UI turned off, of course) I use my computer to regularly run Photoshop CS5, Illustrator CS5, Flash CS5, 5 browsers (Chrome, FF, IE, Safari, Opera), iTunes, Visual Studio 2010, and Kaspersky Internet Security 2010 [sometimes simultaneously :-) ]. The SuperPi test has my dev machine coming in about 30% faster than the Server machine...though this could be due to the server running "Vista" with background processes prioritized. Do you think it would be realistic/advantageous for me to move from my dev machine to the Dell PowerEdge 2600? Is it possible to install additional DVD drives/burners on the server? Can I install my internal 300 GB hard drive on the server? Can I add some USB 2.0 ports? Note: I'll probably install Win XP Pro on the dev machine if I do switch. If not, are there any creative and useful way for me to take advantage of this server (with the goal of faster computing)?

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• Swapping Function (Fn) and Control (Ctrl) Keys on Lenovo ThinkPad W500

  - by Howiecamp

  I'd like to swap the Fn and Ctrl keys on my ThinkPad W500 (like many others!). I wanted to comment on http://superuser.com/questions/35228/how-can-i-switch-the-function-and-control-keys-on-my-laptop and StackOverflow question 514781 (please Google it because I don't have enough rep to include 2 hyperlinks) but I don't have enough rep to do so to comment. Numerous folks (in both the above questions and on other Google searches) indicate that Windows doesn't register the Fn key as a keypress but using a tool that gives the ASCII value of a keypress (visit www mihov com / eng / am.html) I see the Fn key returning FF (perhaps FF in this case means 'not registered'). I also see that keys like Ctrl register with one ASCII code when pressed alone and another when pressed in combo with another key. Fn will only register when pressed alone, so Windows definitely isn't seeing the combo. This took a solution like AutoHotKey off the table. I ran KeyTweak (which shows you the hardware scan codes of a keypress and the Fn key registerd as 57443). Using this program I remapped Fn to the Ctrl key; this worked perfectly. However, I suspect that because of the issue in #1, the combo of, for example, Fn + C did not execute a copy. Short of retraining my pinky I'm actually considering removing the keyboard and resoldering the connections to swap those keys. I'd love to get some input as to the root technical issue(s) and possible solutions here. Thanks

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• How can I fix my vista PCs screen resolution and refresh rate

  - by Antony Scott

  I have a media PC running media portal hooked up to my HDTV via HDMI. The TV is a couple of years old now, so only supports 1080i, which is 1920x1080@25Hz. I've got it connected to my PC via a HDMI compatible AV receiver. If I power up the amp (wait for it to boot fully) followed by the TV| and finally the PC, all is well and I get a picture. If I deviate from that sequence, or don't wait for the amp to book up fully, or even switch the amp to another video input (for example, my PS3). The PC sees this and defaults the screen resolution/refresh rate to 1920x1080@60Hz. So, I end up with a blank screen. To fix this I have to use UltraVNC from a PC and change the refresh rate back to 25Hz. So, is there a way to turn off that auto detection, or to manually define what resolution/refresh rates the monitor can do. I'm using the on-board Radeon 3200 video and do not have any of the AMD software installed as it seems to cause problems with video playback. So, I'm looking for a native vista fix, or possible some 3rd party software.

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• Building a Media Center PC with Comcast Cable...?

  - by Rob

  Alright - so this might be a stupid question but I've never been all that much into TV. I currently have Comcast cable. I've just got the 'basic' 2-60 package or whatever; I've just always plugged the cable into the back of my TV. I've never had a cable box. Recently, Comcast has been pulling channels off of my line-up. Most recently, the stole the TV Guide channel from me. I'm told this is part of a push to get customers to switch to their digital line-up. But, I'm also told it requires some sort of digital receiver for each TV you've got. I don't want to buy a bunch of these digital receivers and I don't want to pay the monthly rental fee...but I have heard of how awesome media center PCs are and some really cool things they can do. And, I've got loads of PC parts sitting around. So, can someone guide me through this a bit? Are there computer video cards or TV tuners that are going to work with Comcast's digital cable? What kind of price range are we looking at?

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• DD-WRT (WRT54G) and (THOMSON TG782) how to put them togather?

  - by FeRtoll

  Ok so let me explain, i bought WRT54G and successfully installed DD-WRT v24-sp1 (07/26/08) mini-special - build 9994. That's all ok no problems with it all normal functioning. And just to add (i don't need wireless, wireless is turned off always) What i want: ISP's router (TG782) from it's INTERNET port(out) cable "which was before in my pc" is connected to WRT54G's INTERNET port and then from WRT54G LAN port 1 to my pc. The problem: How do i connect and setup all? I have tried many times on many different ways but cant get it to work IF THE CABLE FROM TG782 IS CONNECTED TO WRT54G ON INTERNET PORT. If i connect the TG782 to Lan port 1 on WRT54G and my pc to lan port 2 then all works fine after i setup gateway and all. But i want to connect TG782 to Internet port of WRT54G because i need "Access Restrictions" and this only goes through WAN right? please correct me if i am wrong. What i have tried: This is how i have tried to setup all. The TG782 router ip is 192.168.1.1 And WRT54G ip is 192.168.1.30 so in WRT54G control panel i have setup like this: ----WAN Connection Type---- Connection Type: Automatic Configuration - DHCP STP: Disabled ----Router IP---- Local IP Address: 192.168.1.30 Subnet Mask: 255.255.255.0 Gateway: 192.168.1.1 (the TG782) ----Network Address Server Settings (DHCP)---- DHCP Type: DHCP Server Start IP Address: 192.168.1.100 Maximum DHCP Users: 6 And this wont work i probably miss something more, if anyone can help i would be thankfull. Also i have to note that i have tried to set my network adapter on pc to use the gateway of WRT54G and ip 192.168.1.102 In short: i cant get it to work normal only as a switch! Thanks for any help! -------EDIT:------- Here is an image which maybe can help: http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/4227/allin1w.jpg

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• How to read an Excel file, get and set the information using POI

  - by user1399713

  I'm using Java to read a form that is in an Excel spreadsheet that the user fills in with information about geometric shape. Ex: Shape :_________ Color :_________ Area: _________ Perimeter:________ So far the code I have can I can read what I want in the form and print out the values of Shape, Color, Area, Perimeter. public class RangeSetter { /** * @param args * @throws IOException */ public static void main(String[] args) throws IOException { FileInputStream file = new FileInputStream(new File("test2.xls")); //C:\Users\Yo\Documents // Setup code String cname = "Shape"; HSSFWorkbook wb = new HSSFWorkbook(file); // retrieve workbook // Retrieve the named range // Will be something like "$C$10,$D$12:$D$14"; int namedCellIdx = wb.getNameIndex(cname); Name aNamedCell = wb.getNameAt(namedCellIdx); // Retrieve the cell at the named range and test its contents // Will get back one AreaReference for C10, and // another for D12 to D14 AreaReference[] arefs = AreaReference.generateContiguous(aNamedCell.getRefersToFormula()); for (int i=0; i<arefs.length; i++) { // Only get the corners of the Area // (use arefs[i].getAllReferencedCells() to get all cells) CellReference[] crefs = arefs[i].getAllReferencedCells(); for (int j=0; j<crefs.length; j++) { // Check it turns into real stuff Sheet s = wb.getSheet(crefs[j].getSheetName()); Row r = s.getRow(crefs[j].getRow()); Cell c = r.getCell(crefs[j].getCol()); if (c!= null ){ switch(c.getCellType()){ case Cell.CELL_TYPE_STRING: System.out.println(c.getStringCellValue()); } } } } What I want to do is to create a method that gets the that information and another that sets it. So far I can only print to the console

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• After update to Windows 8.1 brigthness isn't working (changing)

  - by Bibo

  I just update my Windows 8 to Windows 8.1 by Windows Store and I have some problems. My notebook is Acer Aspire Timelinex 3820TG and I know it's little old for Windows 8 but I install them and works fine (I updated my HDD to SSD). Now I just updated Windows and I have problem with changing brightness on my dedicated graphic card (Ati HD 5650). First I can changing brigthness with fn + keys but It just changing level in OS. No change in real. I tried reinstall drivers, install drivers for my card from Acer with compatibility to Windows 7 and without change. When I switch to integrated card changing brightness works. I think the problem is with drivers but I don't know how to get it working. Thanks for help Bonus question: I have another problem (but this one is not so important). Does anyone knows what msietxghh.exe is doing? Everytime when my system runs (after update) I get message that this program stops working but I just cancel and looks everything works fine.

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• Best way to convert episodic DVDs for Windows Media Center?

  - by Roger Lipscombe

  I'm archiving my DVD collection. My goal is to be able to play them back in Windows Media Center. For feature-length DVDs, I'm using AnyDVD and CloneDVD, which is working well. For playing back TV shows (and other episodic content), I'm using Media Browser, which doesn't support a VIDEO_TS folder per episode. It expects the shows to be broken up into one file per episode (e.g. "Willo the Wisp - S01E12.avi"). For this, I'm attempting to use Handbrake, which, for extracting the episodes from DVD (or already-ripped VIDEO_TS folder), is working pretty well. The problem that I have is that the default x264 encoder over-compresses the resulting video stream, which results in hideous artifacts in animated shows. The aforementioned Willo the Wisp is a particularly bad example, because the original DVD is particularly "noisy". If I switch to using the ffmpeg encoder, the artifacts are gone in Windows Media Player, but I can't get the resulting files to play back in Windows Media Center. I see the first frame, and then there's an error message. I've installed the CCCP codec collection, but it doesn't seem to have made any difference. So: what's the best way to convert VIDEO_TS to individual episode files for playback in Windows Media Center?

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• How to run the CPU at something like 75%?

  - by Tobias Kienzler

  My notebook is too old for me to invest into a new fan (it will simply be replaced by a new one when the final heat death occurs), but when it runs on full speed I feel like sitting in front of a vacuum cleaner with integrated cooking... I'm currently using NHC, the Max Battery mode of which let's the CPU run at 50% (~800 MHz). That's fine for most applications, and both temperature and noise remain low. However, on some occasions I need a bit more speed, more around 75% maybe. Can I set the power saving settings somehow so that the CPU won't surpass 75% of it's capability so that an acceptable compromise between power and noise is achieved? I can't set the CPU frequency in the BIOS and since on rare occasions I'd like to be able to switch to 100% without much hassling, hardware solutions like setting jumpers are no option. This answer to a similar (linux!) question mentions NHC should be able to offer these options, but for me they are all greyed out: The notebook is an Asus Z9200K, I guess NHC doesn't support its chipset enough for these advanced options.

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• exporting clip in Final Cut Pro X or related video editing software on Mac

  - by user46976

  I'm using Final Cut Pro X to edit a 1 hour long video. I made individual clips from it in Final Cut Pro X and I want to save just these clips, some of which are only 5 mins long. How can I do this? I tried using the app ClipExporter, but it won't even read my .fcpxml file, it just says that it's not a valid file and gives no helpful information at all. Another method I tried was to assign roles to each clip. I made one clip, 5 mins long, and then used Share - Export in Final Cut Pro X and chose the option to export roles as separate files. However, the export still estimates that it will take over an hour to export and so it looks like it's trying to export the whole movie, rather than the simple 5 min clip which should be exportable as a .MOV or related formats in a few minutes. How can I do this in final cut pro x? I'm also happy to switch to related video editing software as long as they are not extremely expensive. This seems like a very trivial and obvious feature: take a segment from a long movie and export just the selected region of it... I don't understand why it's so complicated to do in Final Cut Pro X. Thanks.

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• Acer LCD says "no signal"

  - by Ken

  I have an Acer 24" LCD (model "AL2423WDR") that's about 3 years old. It worked perfectly for most of its lifetime so far. Recently it started giving problems. When I turn it on, it either says "no signal" on the display, or the power light goes yellow (as if in power-saving mode). This happens with both DVI and VGA (both of which worked fine before), and stranger still, the 4 buttons on the front, for accessing the on-screen menus, don't do anything. I've also tried different computer hardware and software (PC/Mac, Linux/MacOS), but nothing has worked. I've tried power-cycling it (with both the power button and the power switch), and also unplugging it entirely. The nonworking buttons suggest to me an issue with the firmware. I found a place on Acer's website that says I can send it in to have it fixed, at my expense, but I'll avoid that if I can. Is there a way to fully reset it manually? Or is there something else I can try?

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• Squid with mikrotik router

  - by niren

  I tried to connect squid3 in my network to use high anonymity proxy. This is how my network is right now WAN LINK | ------------- ----------------------------- | Mikrotik Box | | Ubuntu Server with squid3 | ------------- ----------------------------- | / | / ---------------------- | Switch ( Cheap one ) | ---------------------- | | | Client1 Client2 Client3 etc. after this setup I changed squid.conf in Ubuntu server as http_port 8080 acl localhost src xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx(Ubuntu server IP) acl to_localhost dst xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx(Mikrotik router gateway) I assume that redirected http from Mikrotik router will be redirect again to Mikrotik router. uncomment access log /var/log/squid3/access.log add visible_hostname myname save squid.conf and restart squid3 server. Then I have added nat rule in Mikrotik router ip/firewall/nat 1. add chain=dstnat src_address=xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx(ununtu server IP) dst-port=80 protocol=tcp action=accept 2. add chain=dstnat src_address=xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx/28(LAN address) dst-port=80 protocol=tcp action=dst-nat to-address=xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx(ununtu server IP) to-port=8080 now I can not able to access internet from client1 system, If I remove these two nat rule then I can access internet. what is wrong I have made?

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• How to fix display on external Samsung Syncmaster shifted to the right when connected to Macbook Pro?

  - by joe larson

  Is there something special I need to do to be able to use external LCD displays with my new MacBook Pro? Do I need extra software, or do I possibly need a different cable? I'm attempting to use an external display with my MBP. I've got a "Mini DisplayPort to VGA Female Adapter for Mac", plugged into the thunderbolt port on my MBP, which I understood should be compatible with thunderbolt. I've tried this with three different SyncMaster models: a B2330 (21.5"), a EX2220 (22"), and a third (also 22" ish) which I don't have the model # for -- but all are 1920x1080 resolution; plus an additional HP monitor of similar size and resolution. In all four cases, the MBP recognizes the screen and choses the correct resolution. However, the display is shifted over about 1 inch. This is true no matter if I change screen resolutions also. The controls on the monitor for horizontal position don't help. Also, sometimes (especially if I drag an app over into the second screen), the screen starts skipping left to right and having bands of fuzz. Additionally, the monitor will periodically blink off for a moment, trying to switch from Digital to Analog and back (the Syncmaster shows text on the screen to tell you it's trying to do this). Often when it comes back from one of these blank-outs, it will show OK (no skipping or fuzz) but still shifted right; then after a few seconds it will go wrong again skipping and fuzzy. This photo shows the worst of it. I've added red rectangles to show the physical edge of the screen, and a yellow rectangle to show the empty space on the left of the screen. (Sorry for the awful quality and lighting!) Also, it's worth noting I am on Mac OS X 10.6.7, and yes I have this update 1.4 installed.

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• Netgear GS724Tv3 and link aggregation Mac OS X Server 10.6.8

  - by Manca Weeks

  I need to link aggregate 2 sets of ports on the Netgear GS724T with my Apple server tower (latest generation). I have 2 built in ports and 2 ports on a PCIe ethernet card. It is not obvious to me how to properly configure the Netgear end. I have access to the Netgear box through its web interface, just don't know how to properly set the settings. I tried going to Netgear for help, but they said my software support has expired. I bought this unit on their recommendation - they say it is compatible with 802.3ad protocol. I cannot locate any references to this protocol in the manual and I noticed some people in formus say that this device is actually not compatible with 802.3ad and that Netgear is misleading potential customers by saying it is. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks, M My own answer - posted as edit because of restrictions on my user: OK folks, turns out one must use a Windows machine on this one or nothing makes sense. I was unable to get much farther than viewing the default inactive LAGs because in Firefox and Safari on Mac things don't make much sense - i.e. the Apply buttons (supposedly JavaScript) don't work. You can view the configurations, but none of the modifications you make stick. Then, in Switching - LAGs, choose the ports to include and make sure you switch the LAG type from Static to LACP and all is well. Haven't tested the performance of the config yet, but both sides appear to be happy with the configuration. Apple server says link active and so does the Netgear. Will report if any other discoveries. Thanks for all who read and to user84104 for responding. M

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• How do I boot [embedded] linux from sd card?

  - by Brandon Yates

  I am hacking together a quick embedded linux system on a DM816x evm board. Previously I have been using TFTP and NFS to load my kernel and root filesystem to the board. I am now trying to switch over to loading everything from an SD card. I have my card partitioned such that uBoot and my kernel image are in one partition, and my rootFS in another partition. At power-on, Uboot starts correctly and successfully launches the kernel. However, the kernel is unable to mount the root file system. It appears that it doesn't recognize any SD (mmc) cards. It gives this error message. VFS: Cannot open root device "mmcblk0p2" or unknown-block(2,0) Please append a correct "root=" boot option; here are the available partitions: 1f00 256 mtdblock0 (driver?) 1f01 8 mtdblock1 (driver?) 1f02 2560 mtdblock2 (driver?) 1f03 1272 mtdblock3 (driver?) 1f04 2432 mtdblock4 (driver?) 1f05 128 mtdblock5 (driver?) 1f06 4352 mtdblock6 (driver?) 1f07 204928 mtdblock7 (driver?) 1f08 50304 mtdblock8 (driver?) Kernel panic - not syncing: VFS: Unable to mount root fs on unknown-block(2,0) I feel like I'm missing something fundamental here. Why does it not recognize the root device I am trying to load from? Here is my uBoot boot script that is running: setenv bootargs console=ttyO2,115200n8 root=/dev/mmcblk0p2 rw mem=124M earlyprink vram=50M ti816xfb.vram=0:16M,1:16M,2:6M ip=off noinitrd;mmc init;fatload mmc 1 0x80009000 uImage;bootm 0x80009000

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• BIOS setting: AHCI or RAID (when using SSD + 2x HDD in RAID-0)

  - by nixdagibts

  Hello there, I want to add a new SSD and use it as system drive with Win7 x64 installed. As driver I chose newest Intel Rapid Storage driver (not MSAHCI). I know that I have to use AHCI as BIOS setting for optimal SSD read/write performance. But I'm also using 2 normal HDDs as separate RAID-0 SSD: Win7 HDD: RAID-0 HDD: RAID-0 If I set my BIOS on my ASUS P5W DH Deluxe to AHCI, my RAID-0 cant be recognized And If im using RAID as setting, maybe my SSD has not its top speed. But I'm not sure about that. In short: AHCI no RAID-0 RAID no optimal SSD performance (?) Now my question: Can I use RAID as BIOS setting and be sure, that theres no decrease in SSD performance? Google finds so many articles with similar topics and my head is just exploding. Two examples: - set AHCI and after installing OS switch to RAID as BIOS setting... what? - use a diskette and F6 while installing win7... really? O.o I thought those times are gone

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• AMD switchable graphics are not working OR I don't know how to make them work

  - by Deus Deceit

  I don't know if this is the right place for this question, but I'll give it a shot. I have a Dell Inspiron 17R 5721. It's supposed to be using switchable graphics. It has an Intel HD 4000 and a Radeon HD 8730M and I'm using windows 8. My problem is this, I Installed the drivers that dell gives me but I don't see the AMD graphics card ANYWHERE ( I do see it in device manager but not anywhere else to select and play a game using AMD). I installed the latest drivers from AMD and same thing, I can't run a game with AMD graphics card. I change the applications preferences in the Catalyst control center but even after that, games don't give me the option to select the AMD card, they list only the Intel HD 4000. Can someone tell me what I have to do to make this work? ------------------- After looking around and messing with stuff. I think.... I THINK that you don't really get the option to select a graphics card. Switchable graphics is all about switching automatically depending on application's needs. Cause when I uninstalled AMD's drivers or actually (screwed up lol) games were playing much worse. When I re-installed them, games went back to being good looking. So even if a game sees only the Intel HD 4000 graphics card windows or AMD's drivers will switch to the AMD Readeon graphics card automatically. I hope someone can verify this. Cause seriously I don't think you get to play scyrim with High graphics settings or even ultra with the Intel HD Graphics card. -------------------

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• How to choose which network connection provides the default gateway in Windows XP

  - by Cathy

  I have a laptop with an integrated NIC and a WiFi connection. Both the wired and wireless networks I am using can access the Internet. Win XP is routing all traffic through the wireless network. I want to force it to route everything through the wired network when it is available (i.e. when I am sitting at my desk with the laptop docked) and through the wireless when that is the only option (i.e. when I have undocked my laptop and carried it to a conference room, or if I am out of the office working on a different WiFi network). The wireless connection cannot be established until after I am logged into Windows, so it's always the second network to become available to the OS. I have manually overridden the metric values in the TCP/IP configurations so that the NIC has metric 10 and the WiFi has metric 20. However, Windows is still picking the WiFi adapter's address as the Default Gateway, so this isn't helping. If I manually disable and re-enable the WiFi adapter, then it will switch the default gateway to the wired network and stay that way until I shutdown Windows. How can I tell Windows XP not to replace the default gateway when the WiFi connection is first enabled?

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• Why is my biometric logon method no longer default and how to fix it? Win 7-based lenovo laptop

  - by StormRyder

  My laptop has been having some random problems with hibernating properly. That is a whole another topic that I still haven't resolved, but this is a different issue. The issues are connected, I guess, because one time after my computer experienced a failed hibernate, my login screen changed: since then my login screen always appears as the standard one with a prompt to type in a password. I can still use the finger scanner by clicking "other credentials" button. But that's annoying having to do that every time; previously the prompt to use finger scanner was the default one, whereas the typing password access was the alternate. How do I bring this arrangement back? In other words, how to switch the default from the type password prompt to the finger scan prompt? From online searches, I have only found discussions of turning the biometric access on or off... but clearly it is turned on and working, since I can use it. It's just not the default for some reason...

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• Suggestions on the best home server rack cabinet

  - by allentown

  I have a lot of gear in a colocation facility right now. Some of it is going to come home with me now. I do not know anything about the "rack mount" side of the industry. I lease a rack, and I put my stuff in it. I have a few 1U boxes, a few 2U boxes, and a few 4U boxes. 1U switch. One is a new Xserve, which means it is deep. I think I can get by with around 12U to 18U. I want to keep it as small as possible, since I do not have a lot of spare space at my home. I will not be able to bolt to the wall, floor etc, so it should not be tall. This is something I would love to more or less just be a box that sits on the floor but gives me the ability to mount nicely, do nice cable management etc. Are the "post" style racks junk? I am liking the open space, and the no limitations on depth of something like this: http://www.rackmountsolutions.net/images/products/Martin-relay-rack.jpg However, that thing is way too tall, and probably way too expensive. I am looking to be around $300.00 or less. More if I have to, though I would prefer not to. These look near perfect: (See comment for this link, the system will not let me post a second url) but I am worried the Xserve will not fit in it. If anyone has any good links, or website recommendations of good past experience, I would appreciate it. I am almost considering that I may be able to build something with random scraps of stuff at Home Depot as well.

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