Search Results

Search found 16022 results on 641 pages for 'model export'.

Page 540/641 | < Previous Page | 536 537 538 539 540 541 542 543 544 545 546 547  | Next Page >

  • Monitor goes black for a few seconds

    - by privatehuff
    I have a Hanns G 28" monitor, Model # HG281D It has its issues (viewing angle sucks) but has been functional and solid, great for desktop stuff. Worked without any sign of any problems for 6-12 months. However, now the monitor "goes black" for about 2-3 seconds, almost like when you click "detect display" It does not turn off (power light does not go amber) The computer is completely unaffected and the video mode never changes when the picture returns. The computer is fully responsive and will keep playing music or taking my keypresses during the time I can't see anything. (it just happened and I kept typing, etc) It happens on multiple computers across several operating systems. (I have an 8-port iogear KVM switch that has several computers connected) But, it seems to happen only on certain computers. I have a hackintosh that does it, a windows 7 PC that does not, a lenovo laptop that does not, and my old ubuntu 8.10 box did not do it, but my new mint 8 box does do it. I've check the connections and tried changing out the power cable and the vga cable. Sometimes it won't happen for hours (or days) and sometimes it happens several times per hour. It was happening many months ago, did not happen for months, and has now started happening again. Does this make any sense? What could it be?

    Read the article

  • Windows 7 Printing Issue

    - by Adrian Godong
    I am using Windows 7 RTM x64. From Control Panel Devices and Printers, I have three printers listed; Fax, XPS Writer, and a Lexmark. I can print a test page through the printer properties with no problem. I can print a text file from Notepad with no problem. I can't print from Safari. When I press Ctrl+P, it displays the Print dialog, press OK and nothing happened. I can't print from Adobe Reader. When I press Ctrl+P, it complains that it there is no printer installed. I can't print from Office applications. When I press Ctrl+P, it crashes immediately. Running Office Diagnostics does not help. I can't print from IE8. When I press Ctrl+P, it displays the Print dialog, complains that I have to select a printer from the list, selected any of the three printers, the Print button is disabled. Any help? Update (01/11/2009): The default printer is the Lexmark. I'm testing on this one as well. I was about to reinstall Office (as this is the first application that has the problem), but then I tried other, some behave similarly but not identical (maybe caused by different printing implementation). On those applications that is able to display printer selection dialog, I tried the Lexmark and XPS. Neither printed anything (paper for Lexmark, file for XPS). Update (01/12/2009): It seems that my Windows installation is botched. A colleague have similar hardware/software combination (it's the same workstation model and Windows 7 x64) and his can print perfectly fine. I tried adding the printer from his share, no joy. I can test print from the printer property, I can print from Notepad, but not from any other application.

    Read the article

  • Why do fonts sometimes look "fat" on Mac OS X?

    - by jtimberman
    Sometimes when resuming from suspend, the fonts in Mac OS X look "fatter" than normal. Unfortunately right now I can't get my Macbook Pro to exhibit the "normal" behavior for comparison, it has been abnormal yesterday and today. If I can get screenshots of what I think is 'normal', I'll add them. "Fixing" this has been random. I use an external monitor, and sometimes unplugging it and plugging back in, or even turning it off and back on has worked. Sometimes with the display attached (or not) detecting displays works. Sometimes logging out or rebooting entirely is what it takes. Displays used: Macbook Pro 15" built-in display Dell 27" LCD (2009 model) Software where I see this happen, at least most noticably: Firefox (screenshots below) iTerm Things MacIrssi (screenshots below) I am using Mac OS X 10.5.8. "Abnormal" view from MacIrssi with Inconsolata 16 pt. image full size "Abnormal" view from Firefox. Finally got it to switch back, though after resuming from suspend its back to "fat" :-(. image full size And 'normal' in Firefox:

    Read the article

  • Is there any way to synchronize Outlook RSS Feeds with BlackBerry?

    - by nvuono
    Does anyone know how I can view the contents of my Outlook 2007 RSS Feeds from a corporate-issued BlackBerry? Our Inbox and Calendar are already integrated with corporate exchange servers but it looks like nobody cares too much about the RSS Feeds. Is there some setting on my Blackberry or in Outlook I could possibly tweak to include these updates? I know there are many standalone RSS readers available for blackberry (Google Reader for example) but I mention Outlook RSS Feeds specifically in my question because I am subscribing to a number of RSS feeds I've setup on my intranet for various version control systems that would be inaccessible to an external RSS reader. It seems like I might have to setup some sort of email commit notifications if I want anything from my blackberry but I much prefer the 'pull' method of an RSS feed viewer over receiving streams of emails. Please feel free to suggest any alternatives! Edit: I've additionally tried moving my "SVN Repository" folder directly into my Mailbox instead of keeping it as a child of the RSS Feeds folder. This allows me to view the SVN Repository folder on my blackberry where previously the RSS Feeds folder and all children were hidden but unfortunately it never seems to get populated with the items that are displaying in Outlook. I've even made a fresh commit to make sure that the SVN Repository folder still works correctly in Outlook from outside the RSS Feeds folder but no luck on the BlackBerry end of things. BlackBerry Model Details: BlackBerry 8310 smartphone (EDGE) v4.2.2.170 Platform 2.5.0.30

    Read the article

  • Update a bootable OS X drive clone with rsync?

    - by Joe
    The question: is it possible to keep a boot-able backup drive clone of OS X updated with rsync? If rsync is not a viable option are there alternatives? The Setup: My situation is as shown above. One internal Samsung 840 SSD [120g] in use as my OS X 10.8 boot disk on a recent model Mac Mini. I have successfully cloned that drive with disk utility to a 125g partition of another HDD in an external USB 3 enclosure and at that point I am able to boot to it. The Goal: As my last system went out in a fiery blaze taking much valuable data with it, I have a new respect for a proper backup solution and really want to do this right. My goal is to achieve an automated differential backup/update from Disk A to Disk B while most importantly maintaining boot-ability on the external drive. And I would prefer to do this differentially to minimize stress on the drives. Hence rsync was the first thing to come to mind. What I have tried: following along with Jamie Zawinski's differential mac bootable backup solution running this manually initially worked - i tested it with only very miniscule file change and everything was fine / external booted and all. now after subsequent passes rsync fails throwing errors particularly relating to updating 'boot.efi' (not at the machine currently I will update the precise log message once I return home) is this a drive partition size issue? does rsync require more space? if it cant be done, are there any alternatives? i've heard whispers of dd

    Read the article

  • Terrible noises from subwoofer of ACER Aspire 6930 with Realtek sound chip

    - by OneWorld
    After approximately 5-15 min of listening to music my subwoofer begins to make terrible noises. He's just "coughing". That began after 6 months I had this computer. Now I found out, that I can temporarily fix this problem by "restarting" the audio stream of the application that plays music. For example reloading last.fm page (reloads the flash file). Another way to reset the audio playback is switching the speaker configuration shown below in the screenshot. According to many posts on the internet like http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/52918-20-acer-aspire-6935g-speaker-problem ACER support isn't any help Exchanging hardware doesn't fix the problem Even the later models have this problem Turning off the volume of the subwoofer is not an option to me. I still have warranty (I bought an extension of one year). I already tried about 15 versions of the Realtek driver with no success. I am not sure but MAYBE the problem did not occur on the original windows vista that was shipped with this computer. However, I removed the original windows for good reasons (english). What do you suggest me? Did anyone fix this problem? Maybe by writing a script which resets the audio streams every 5 minutes? Shall I take the effort to deal with the acer support until they give me another model? (I won't have a computer than for a longer time, will spend money on telephone hotlines (1,30 EUR / min)......) Here are additional infos, if they are any help: Windows 7 64 Bit (Original was Windows Vista Home Premium 32 Bit) All specs Audio driver version:

    Read the article

  • Windows 7 64bit will not register a 32bit DLL

    - by Bad Neighbor
    I'm trying to install a 32bit Oracle instant client onto several Windows 7 PCs. This version is the one required by the customer's software. I have successfully installed it on about a dozen PCs using the same installer, but two machines refuse to register a DLL. The two PCs are of different make and model. I have been able to install this software in the past on these models. This is the error that the installer throws up: The file copies to the location referenced above. If I choose to ignore the error and manually register it later, I get the following error: This error is returned whether I use the 32bit (syswow64) or 64bit version of regsvr32. Command Prompt is run as admin, and the ID with which I'm logged into the PC is an admin. I've tried copying the file into the syswow64 folder, but I get the same error. This same installer works on other PCs. To further complicate the issue, one of the two PCs also will not register an OCX file from a different 32bit installer: Both PCs are relatively new and have standard software installed. We use MS Forefront for security, but disabling that didn't change the behavior. What am I missing?

    Read the article

  • HP Proliant DL380 G4 - Can this server still perform in 2011?

    - by BSchriver
    Can the HP Proliant DL380 G4 series server still perform at high a quality in the 2011 IT world? This may sound like a weird question but we are a very small company whose primary business is NOT IT related. So my IT dollars have to stretch a long way. I am in need of a good web and database server. The load and demand for a while will be fairly low so I am not looking nor do I have the money to buy a brand new HP Dl380 G7 series box for $6K. While searching around today I found a company in ATL that buys servers off business leases and then stripes them down to parts. They clean, check and test each part and then custom "rebuild" the server based on whatever specs you request. The interesting thing is they also provide a 3-year warranty on all their servers they sell. I am contemplating buying two of the following: HP Proliant DL380 G4 Dual (2) Intel Xeon 3.6 GHz 800Mhz 1MB Cache processors 8GB PC3200R ECC Memory 6 x 73GB U320 15K rpm SCSI drives Smart Array 6i Card Dual Power Supplies Plus the usual cdrom, dual nic, etc... All this for $750 each or $1500 for two pretty nicely equipped servers. The price then jumps up on the next model up which is the G5 series. It goes from $750 to like $2000 for a comparable server. I just do not have $4000 to buy two servers right now. So back to my original question, if I load Windows 2008 R2 Server and IIS 7 on one of the machines and Windows 2008 R2 server and MS SQL 2008 R2 Server on another machine, what kind of performance might I expect to see from these machines? The facts is this series is now 3 versions behind the G7's and this series of server was built when Windows 200 Server was the dominant OS and Windows 2003 Server was just coming out. If you are running Windows 2008 R2 Server on a G4 with similar or less specs I would love to hear what your performance is like.

    Read the article

  • Do eSATA HDD docking stations have a capacity limit?

    - by Michael Kjörling
    I'm looking at perhaps buying an eSATA docking station to be able to easily plug in and unplug hard disk drives, particularly but not necessarily only for backup purposes. Note: This is not a hardware shopping recommendation question. Please don't vote to close it as such. Looking at different models, I find for example this page detailing the Deltaco SI-7908SUS which specifically states "storage capacity: 1.5 TB" as well as "pictured hard disk not included, only for illustration". A customer review specifically mentions that it does not work with 3 TB drives, although does not go into any detail such as OS, drive model, etc. From a brief glance, the vendor's web site does not appear to say either way. Then there is the quite similar Deltaco SI-7908B3 which boasts on the box "all 2.5" and 3.5" HDD/SSD compatible". My question is: Why would what basically amounts to a SATA/eSATA adapter have any say in what storage capacity devices are supported? Does it? Assuming the OS supports the full capacity of the drive, why should introducing another (not even a different, really) connector change anything? Bonus question: Might it make a difference if the docking station exposes multiple interfaces (such as in the case of for example the SI-7908SUS exposing USB 2.0 and eSATA)? (I still think it shouldn't, but it'd be nice to have it confirmed.)

    Read the article

  • Setting up VPN with Snow Leopard Server and Linksys router

    - by SueP
    I'd like to get VPN going so I can log in to the office securely from home. I'm using Snow Leopard machines everywhere, and currently have Airport Extremes set up at home and at the office. I have a mac mini with Snow Leopard Server that I'm going to move to the office to act as my server. I just bought a Linksys 4-port router because it says it does VPN (model RVS4000). My problem is, I don't have a clue how to set this thing up, and the more reading I do, the more confused I get. Do I need two of these routers, one at each end? My laptop and iPad claim they can do VPN, so I was assuming I only needed one VPN router? At this point, I literally don't know what questions to ask, or where to plug this thing in. Presumably, between the modem and the airport, but...? If somebody can walk me thru some really basic setup, I'd be very grateful. Right now, I feel like going outside and screaming for a while. But that might attract the local cougar, and after the prints I saw on the arena this afternoon, I don't want to draw its attention. :-)

    Read the article

  • Xbox Music ignores Asus FN media keys in Desktop Mode

    - by Ruud Lenders
    I have an Asus PRO64JQ laptop, and I recently upgraded to Windows 8. The FN keys stopped working, so I tried to install default drivers using the CD that came with my laptop. Unfortunately, the CD does not support Windows 8. Asus Support does not help me either. It seems that Asus does not support Windows 8 on my model, since I can't find it in their list of Windows 8 upgradable models. Also, the support page of my laptop does not allow me to select Windows 8 as OS. That's why I'm asking my question here. I fixed (most of) the FN keys by installing the ATKPackage, and I was happy to find out that the media keys (play/pauze, next, previous) works with the Xbox Music app. But the keys only work in the Metro UI. In Desktop Mode, pressing FN+? (play/pause) starts up Windows Media Player. Disabling Windows Media Player through the control panel stops it from popping up, but Xbox Music still only responds to them in the Metro UI. I remember that I had similar problems when I tried to make these media keys to work with iTunes on Windows 7. The fix there was a small iTunes plug-in. So tell me, do you know how to fix my problem? Thanks.

    Read the article

  • "Can't find root filesystem / error mounting /dev/root" when booting to new kernel

    - by salparadise
    I am trying to upgrade my kernel from 2.6.18-274 to 2.6.39 for some wireless card drivers. When I boot into the new kernel I get the "Can't find root filesystem / error mounting /dev/root" googling led me to this page http://fedoraproject.org/wiki/Common_kernel_problems#Can.27t_find_root_filesystem_.2F_error_mounting_.2Fdev.2Froot From what I am reading seems to be an issue with a driver for my SATA controller or HD, but I can't find what option I need to add to the kernel. Doing a diff from the old initrd to the new one gives me the following: root-> diff /tmp/kafter /tmp/kbefore 6a7,8 > lib/dm-message.ko > lib/dm-region_hash.ko 8a11 > lib/dm-raid45.ko 13d15 < lib/dm-region-hash.ko 16a19 > lib/dm-mem-cache.ko Do I need any of those? not sure if I would need dm-raid45.ko as I am not running a raid. I have the same SATA and IDE options configured for both kernels so not sure what else to look for, any help is appreciated. Additionally here is the HW info: 00:1f.2 IDE interface: Intel Corporation 82801FB/FW (ICH6/ICH6W) SATA Controller (rev 03) (prog-if 8f [Master SecP SecO PriP PriO]) Subsystem: Hewlett-Packard Company Unknown device 3006 Flags: bus master, 66MHz, medium devsel, latency 0, IRQ 233 I/O ports at 1818 [size=8] I/O ports at 1830 [size=4] I/O ports at 1820 [size=8] I/O ports at 1834 [size=4] I/O ports at 14f0 [size=16] Capabilities: [70] Power Management version 2 root-> smartctl -a /dev/sda ... === START OF INFORMATION SECTION === Device Model: WDC WD5000AADS-00S9B0

    Read the article

  • Windows 7 hangs after going into sleep a second time

    - by Brian Stephenson
    I've searched everywhere around Google and can't figure out why this is happening so I decide to ask here to see if anyone has a problem like this. Like it says in the title, whenever I sleep ONCE I'm able to wake the system, but going back to sleep again AFTER waking up for the first time results in it hanging on no input and no output, with the fan spinning as fast as possible and alot of heat being spewed out by the fan as well. I've tried various things like setting all USB Hub Root's to not get switched off for power saving, disabling USB selective suspend, disabling PCI-e link state power management, and even unplugging ALL USB devices and it wont wake up after the second attempt. And I've even waited up to a full hour of the CPU fan spinning loudly and it's still stuck trying to wake up. The only USB devices I use are a Microsoft USB Comfort Curve Keyboard 2000 (IntelliType Pro) and a generic HID compliant mouse from Creative model number OMC90S "CREATIVE MOUSE OPTICAL LITE". My other devices like external drives and controllers are unplugged when I'm not using them as having too many USB devices plugged in at a time causes a deadlock on almost all of the ports I have. Here's my system specifications (Most of these are from CPU-Z): Brand: Gateway DX4300-19 Mainboard: Gateway RS780 Chipset: AMD 780G Rev 00 Southbridge: AMD SB700 Rev 00 LPCIO: ITE IT8718 BIOS: American Megatrends Inc. ver P01-A4 09/15/2009 CPU: AMD Phenom II X4 810 at 2.60 GHz RAM: 8.0 GB DDR2 Dual Channel Ganged Mode at 400 MHz GPU: ATI Radeon HD3200 Graphics Intergrated - RS780 OS: Windows 7 Home Premium x64 OEM (Acer Group) HDD: WDC WD10EADS-22M2B0 1.0 TB (Western Digital Green Caviar) My BIOS has absolutely no control over how I setup the sleep mode to be either S1 or S3. So I can't check these settings or even change them. Hybrid sleep is also disabled, I can successfully go into hibernation and wake from hibernation but this is painfully slow due to a harddrive problem I'm having with this "Green Drive". (Hibernation takes over ~3 minutes to complete) Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

    Read the article

  • No power save on external hard drive - How to implement?

    - by blastawaythewall
    I recently bought a new 3.5" USB external hard drive which I thought had a power save feature on it, but it turns out that it doesn't. So whether it's being used or not, it spins, which wouldn't be a problem if it wasn't so loud and didn't get really really hot. After doing some research, it seems like what controls this is the enclosure of the hard drive and not the drive itself or the OS (although I suspect that's not entirely true). I attempted to use the "hdparm" utility but it couldn't identify my externals. Just to be clear, I'm defining power save as a hard drive spinning down after a certain time period of not being used (read from/written to). Also, I have other externals that do this, so it's not a problem from my computer. Here's my question: Is there a way to implement a power save-like feature on my hard drive through software, OS settings, or anything else? Here's some details: Running: Windows XP Home SP2 HD Model: Cavalry CAUM-B-OTB 2TB (although the website only lists 1TB max) Inside: Hitachi Deskstar 7K2000 (HDS722020ALA330) (I would link, but new users can only post 1) Thanks in advance.

    Read the article

  • Attaching 3.5" desktop drive to MacBook SATA

    - by Kyle Cronin
    I have a mid-2007 MacBook that, according to the Apple Store, has suffered some liquid damage and requires a new logic board to operate correctly, a ~$750 repair I've been told (would normally be around ~$300 were it not for the "liquid damage"). The unit itself works fine - the only problem I've been having is that the system does not recognize the battery and will not charge it. Curiously, the system can still be powered by the battery and even recognizes when the power cord is detached by diming the backlight, but I digress. Now that this laptop will likely become a desktop, I'm wondering if it might be possible to attach a desktop drive. I recently purchased a 2TB SATA drive and I'm wondering if it's possible to somehow attach it where the current internal drive connects. Obviously the drive itself will not fit inside the device, but as the unit will spend the rest of its days on my desk, that's not really much of an issue. My main questions are: Is this possible? If so, how would I connect the drive? Would a SATA extender cable work? Is the SATA port on my MacBook capable of powering a desktop drive? Or should I just get a SATA male-to-female cable and see if I can power the drive through other means (a cheap power supply, for example) The disk I'm referring to is the Hitachi Deskstar HD32000. Though I couldn't find that exact model on Hitachi's support site, these are the power requirements for a similar drive, the 7K2000 (2TB, 7200RPM, SATA II): Power Requirement +5 VDC (+/-5%) +12 VDC (+/-10%) Startup current (A, max.) 1.2 (+5V), 2.0 (+12V) Idle (W) 7.5 From what I've read, 2.5" drives require 5V, meaning that my MacBook obviously is capable of producing it. The specs seem to suggest that this drive seems capable of accepting it instead of the typical 12V - is this an accurate interpretation of the power requirements? Or does it need both 12V and 5V?

    Read the article

  • Toshiba Satellite P755D USB 3.0 Drivers Missing - Windows 7 Professional

    - by nicorellius
    I bought a Toshiba Satellite P755D recently and installed Windows 7 Professional on the machine. It runs great. But I noticed the exclamation point in the yellow triangle icon in the Device Manager next to the Universal Serial Buss (USB) Controller (I'm assuming this is the USB 3.0 controller because mine doesn't recognize devices). Normally, when this kind of thing happens I go to the manufacturer's website and download appropriate drivers and call it a day. But not this time... I browsed to my model and found no driver for the USB 3.0 controller. I tried other HW and Utility drivers, thinking they would be bundled. No luck. I tried looking up the motherboard in my machine. Generic name, no luck. I then called Toshiba technical support and they tried basic troubleshooting, eg, uninstall device, reboot, for auto-installation; no luck. I popped the Windows 7 disk back in and tried to get information that way, no luck. Finally, the technical support guy said he would look into the engineer's system to see if there was a specific driver available and that's where I'm at. The technician told me that these USB 3.0 drivers come within the native driver pack in windows but that doesn't seem to be the case. Any ideas? EDIT - See attached screen shots.

    Read the article

  • Netgear router keeps disconnecting iPhone

    - by DisgruntledGoat
    My old router (Voyager 2091) packed up so I just got a new router - a Netgear N150 model DGN1000. My laptop connects OK wirelessly, but my iPhone 4S is constantly getting "disconnected" - it has perfect wifi signal and is seemingly connected to the router, but no pages load (it says "server cannot be found"). If I disconnect manually ("forget this network") then reconnect, it works fine again for a random amount of time (usually 10-30 minutes) then I get the same problem again. I've done some searching and this appears to be a known problem - there are dozens of forum posts out there lamenting similar connection problems. The only advice I have seen is to set a specific channel under Wireless Settings on the router CP, although every forum post recommends a different channel! 1, 3, 5, 6, 11... I have tried them all for hours at a time and get the exact same problem. The firmware is up to date. Is there an actual solution for this, or do I need to get a different router just to be able to use my iPhone?

    Read the article

  • Compaq Motherboard gives "CPU Fan Error"

    - by John
    I have a motherboard for a HP business desktop dx5150 PC. The model written on the board is "MS-7050" and it is for an AMD socket 939 processor. I got everything installed in it, and when I turned it on, it showed a message stating that there was a "CPU Fan Error" (or some similar language) and then turned off. It never stays on for more than about 30 seconds, probably less. The fan had previously been working great, but I replaced it anyway with a brand new Cooler Master fan. This did not work. I then reset the BIOS with the jumpers on the board, no dice. I replaced the CMOS battery. Same error. I then replaced the entire computer power supply with a brand new Antec, same error. The fan header is keyed, and has room for 3 pins. The CPU fan is designed the same way, so its not that I'm missing a temperature sensor or anything. Can anyone give some suggestions? Especially maybe some secret keystrokes to bypass this error?

    Read the article

  • Laptop Randomly Turning On and Off

    - by Ian Mallett
    So, I have a pretty new laptop, and one of its quirks is that, at random times (though typically in the middle of the night), it seems to wake up from sleep mode, churn a bit, and then go back into sleep mode. I write "seems" because its fans are very loud, so it's obvious when it's not asleep, but during the time it is "on", I can't see anything on the screen. I have researched the problem somewhat, and could only find similar issues; nothing identical. In those cases, it appeared that certain devices could be responsible. Nothing is plugged into my computer during this behavior, but I nonetheless disabled every device's permission to wake the computer through the device manager. This included disabling the magic packet wake for the network (despite its only having a wireless connection). Using "powercfg /lastwake" gives an empty wake history. But, I also went through all the tasks and checked if they would wake the computer. None appeared to. The problem persisted, so, after some more research, I found this, and executed it for all power schemes on the computer. The problem persists. System: OS: Windows 7 Professional CPU: Intel 990X GPU: NVIDIA GeForce 580M/12GB RAM Motherboard: Clevo X7200 Model: NP7282-S1 (Sager-built laptop)

    Read the article

  • HP DL185 - very slow disk read speed

    - by fistameeny
    Hi, I have a HP DL185 G6 Server (12 disk model) with the following spec: Quad Core Xeon 2.27GHz 6GB RAM HP P212 RAID controller with battery backup 2 x 128GB 15K SAS 3.5" (RAID-1 for the operating system) 4 x 750GB 7.5K SAS 3.5" (RAID-5 for the data, 2TB usable space) The operating system is Ubuntu Server 9.10. Both drives have been formatted as EXT4. We are finding that read speed of the RAID-5 array is poor. Disk test results below: sudo hdparm -tT /dev/cciss/c0d1p1 /dev/cciss/c0d1p1: Timing cached reads: 15284 MB in 2.00 seconds = 7650.18 MB/sec Timing buffered disk reads: 74 MB in 3.02 seconds = 24.53 MB/sec For info, the RAID-1 array performs as follows: sudo hdparm -tT /dev/cciss/c0d0p1 /dev/cciss/c0d0p1: Timing cached reads: 15652 MB in 2.00 seconds = 7834.26 MB/sec Timing buffered disk reads: 492 MB in 3.01 seconds = 163.46 MB/sec We thought this was because with no battery, read/write cache is disabled. We have bought and installed the battery backup and have used the HP bootable CD to change the cache settings to 50% read / 50% write and check cache is enabled on the drives and the controller. Is there something I'm missing?

    Read the article

  • A router that supports connecting with 2 different wifi networks

    - by Allan Deamon
    I Have the following setup in one place: We have a small local ISP through wireless. I have a external parabolic antenna, connected to a external usb wifi radio, connected through USB to a desktop old PC. The pc connects do the ISP wiki network, then do a Dial Up (PPPoE) connection through the this wifi setup. This will expand with others mobiles devices to be used. When I need, I take my home wireless router and connect though Ethernet in the PC, which is shares the internet. The problem is that the PC must be always ON and working. I would like to buy a wireless router which could be an AP to the mobile devices, notebooks, etc, as also could connect to the ISP Wifi/PPPoE network. So, this device must: Have one radio with detachable antenna to connect to the external antenna. It must connect as client to a network and then dial up the PPP Have another radio serving as AP (infrastructure) to the local place This can't be very expensive. I found a candidate: ( http://www.tp-link.com/en/products/details/?categoryid=1682&model=TL-WR2543ND ) It have 3 deatachable antennas, working with dual band. Officially, his firmware doesn't support it. My supposition: If internally there is 3 or 2 distinct wlan ports (like wlan0, wlan1), and there is support, i could use a OpenWRT, DD-WRT or Tomato to make this works. It also have 1 USB port, which I cold use to connect my actual USB Wifi card on it instead to the old PC. Another alternative, is a router that can do this out of box, with the original firmware. But I don't think this is a easy thing to find.

    Read the article

  • Why does my PC successfully boot only when unplugged for more than a few minutes?

    - by philg
    I have an HP Pavilion Elite desktop computer, model HPE-490t. I like it because it didn’t cost too much, boots itself from an SSD, came with 16 GB of RAM, and has 6 CPU cores for editing video and camera RAW images. It has one behavioral quirk that I cannot explain, however. The recent power interruptions here in the Northeast got the machine into a state where it could not be restarted. It would power up for a second or two, shut down, and then power up again, never being able to get to the point of showing anything on the monitor. I unplugged it for about 10 seconds and plugged it back in. Same behavior (fails to boot). I unplugged it and walked away for an hour, then plugged it back in and it worked perfectly! I think something similar happened after installing a second hard disk drive into this machine. So the question is why does the computer behave differently depending on how long it has been unplugged? Where is energy stored that affects the machine’s ability to boot? Capacitors in the power supply? Battery on the motherboard (there is one for the clock, but that wouldn’t be exhausted by being unplugged for an hour, I don’t think)?

    Read the article

  • Internet Troubles - PPPoE vs PPPoA?

    - by AkkA
    I have been having some internet troubles at home (ADSL2+ connection in Australia). We get random drop-outs from the authentication connection. It will keep the connection to the DSL service, but we lose authentication and either have to restart the router/modem (its combined, a Belkin one, not sure on model number) or unplug the phone cable, wait about 30 seconds and plug it in again. I've called the ISP (Telstra) a few times, but they only offer limited support when we dont use their supported hardware. Apparently something had happened on their side, they checked the box again (at least it sounded that simple), and told me it would be fine. It wasnt. I've replaced all the filters around the house, but that didnt help either. We do live a little bit away from the exchange (get a sync speed of about 3000/900), so I thought it could be due to line noise but that hasnt helped. Telstra allow both PPPoE and PPPoA connections (which I'm configuring through my router, dont have software on the PC side). I've been running PPPoA the whole time, would it make any difference changing it to PPPoE? If not, are there any other theories as to why we would be experiencing these drop-outs? It has been fine for at least 12 months, then suddenly started about 2 months ago.

    Read the article

  • Power issues Foxconn Barebones kit

    - by alpha1
    I have a Foxconn R20D2 bought about a year and a half ago. It ran fine for a while and then around last summer it started having power issues. I chalked it up to changes in electric current due to the overwhelmed grid when people turn on their AC units, but this problem has stayed for all year, shutting off randomly, shutting off when i turn on a vacuum and similar problems. Now that its summer again, the box basically sits there all day cycling itself, and now has gotten to the point it tried to boot and after 3 seconds, fails, shuts off and tried again. I know its power related, it runs opensuse linux and there are never any shutdown logs or anything of that sort. As the weather got hotter i noticed it happening more and more, and it most often happened in the morning, i presume as people woke up and turn on the AC. The power supply is a Chennel well technology co LTD model DSL-150. 150W max output. Its an intel atom dual core, with 2 sata drives, no CD/floppy etc, recently upgrades from 2 to 4gb of ram. It runs at 104 degrees Fahrenheit all the time almost. Any way i can test the power supply or anything else to try to fix it? Im a software guy, not hardware so im at a complete loss here, thanks for all assistance you can provide! EDIT: The switch on the back that says 230 or 115 is set to 230. If im in the USA, could that be causing the problems?

    Read the article

  • Wake on Demand for Apache server in OS X 10.8

    - by Gary
    Mac OS X Mountain Lion does not have a Web Sharing box in the Sharing system prefs menu. It is thoroughly discussed on the web that the Apache server is available, and that it can be turned on manually in the command line, or by using a convenient Prefs Pane. That works while the computer is awake. But, when my computer goes to sleep, the server stops working, even though Wake for Network Access is checked in the Energy Saver Pref Pane. From the discussion on Bonjour, I see that this problem probably results from the fact that Apache isn't registered with Bonjour. Does that sound likely? If not, please make some suggestions. The connection is via hard-wired ethernet. If registration with Bonjour is the problem, I'd like to know how to register it. You gave a nice description of dns-sd, and the command description says dns-sd -R Name Type Domain Port [TXT...] (Register a service)", but I don't know what to use for "Name" or "Type", or the format of the domain. I tried some dns-sd -B searches and found nothing I could use as a model, and it doesn't show up in Bonjour Browser. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

    Read the article

< Previous Page | 536 537 538 539 540 541 542 543 544 545 546 547  | Next Page >