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  • Is a rubber keyboard suitable for heavy use?

    - by Vilx-
    Every keyboard wears out with time, and mine has some age already. The day it fails is coming closer and closer. So I'm slowly starting to look around for a new one. I use the keyboard for gaming and programming, so it gets some pretty solid use. I also tend to eat by the computer, so there's plenty of... uhh... lifeforms down there. Anyway, I was looking at these rubber keyboards. They come pretty cheap (my local computer shop has one for less than $20) and they seem to have some nice properties. They can be easily cleaned, they're quiet, and can be rolled up when needed (plus no worries about spilled drinks). However I'm wondering what their type-ability is. If I can't write on it at a decent speed, the rest of the features don't matter. Not that I'm a fast typer, but being a professional progammer does give a boost to the skill. I couldn't find any reviews on the net so I'm turning to you. Who has used these keyboards and what was your experience? Perhaps there is something else I haven't though of why such a keyboard would not be a good idea?

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  • Simulate 'Shock absorbtion' with tire rubber in PhysX (2.8.x)

    - by Mungoid
    This is a kinda tricky question and I fear there is no easy enough solution, but I figured I'd hit SE up before giving up on it and just doing what I can. A machine I am working on has no suspension or shocks or springs of any sort in the real machine, so you would think that when it drives over bumps, it would shake like crazy but because its tires (6 of them) are quite large they seem to absorb a lot of shock from the bumps. Part of this is because the machine is around 30k lbs and it just smashes/compresses any bumps in the ground down (This is another issue im still working on) and the other part is that the tires seem to have a lot of flex to them with a lot of air as well. So my current task is to simulate shock absorption in physx without visibly separating the tires from the spindle/axle.. I have been messing with all kinds of NxMaterial, NxSpring, Joints, etc. and have had no luck getting this to work. The main problem is that the spindle attached to the tire is directly in the center and the axle is basically solidly attached to the chassis, so if i give it any spring or suspension travel, that spindle on the tires will move upwards or downwards, looking very odd because now its not any longer in the center of the tire. I tried giving it a higher restitution but that just makes it bouncy without any shock absorption. Another avenue I am messing with is to actively smooth the terrain in front of the tires so that before it hits a bumpy patch, that patch is smoothed and it doesn't bounce. The only issue with this is that it is pretty expensive to do with 6 tires, high tesselation of the terrain and other complex things going on at the same time in this simulation. I am still working on this but I am hoping to mix and match a few different aspects to get the best possible outcome. This is a bit of a complex issue so I'm not expecting anyone to have a definitive answer, just hoping someone may think of something I haven't =-) -Side note: Yes i know PhysX 2.8.x is quite outdated but we have to stick with it for this implementation. We are in the process of going to another physics engine but it is out of scope to apply that engine to this project.

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  • Drawing rubber band line during user drag

    - by Pete W
    In my iPhone app, I would like the user to be able to "connect" two of my views by: 1) starting a drag in View A 2) as they drag towards View B, a straight line with one end in View A and the other end under at the current drag point, animates in a rubber-band fashion 3) when/if they release in View B, the line is then shown between the two views I've seen examples of dragging and dropping views, and other examples of animations, but I haven't seen one that is a simple example of this kind of user-directed animation. Any pointers towards examples or the specific docs I should be looking at would be appreciated. If this turns out to be trivial - my apologies. Although I've done quite a bit of development, I'm just getting started in the iPhone SDK and Core Graphics.

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  • How do I install rubber pins onto a case fan?

    - by Resorath
    I have the following rubber pins with my new case fan: I'm not sure how to install these. They are obvious to install into the case, the rubber pulls easily into the screw hole and stays in place, however the fan they came with they do not seem to fit in the screw holes at all. I put the thin side into the fan and pulled so hard that it actually snapped the rubber, so obviously that is not the correct method. How do you install these rubber pins into stubborn fans of which they were designed for?

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  • HOW-TO Make computer sing

    - by Ofir
    Hi, I'm trying to develop an online application where the user writes some text and the software sings it back to the user. I can currently generate the audio file with the words spoken by the computer using espeak, but I have no idea how to make it sound like a song, how to add rhythm to it. I'm able to change the pitch and tempo using rubberband, but that's as far as I've gotten. Does anyone have a clue how to make this happen?

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  • HTG Reviews the CODE Keyboard: Old School Construction Meets Modern Amenities

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    There’s nothing quite as satisfying as the smooth and crisp action of a well built keyboard. If you’re tired of  mushy keys and cheap feeling keyboards, a well-constructed mechanical keyboard is a welcome respite from the $10 keyboard that came with your computer. Read on as we put the CODE mechanical keyboard through the paces. What is the CODE Keyboard? The CODE keyboard is a collaboration between manufacturer WASD Keyboards and Jeff Atwood of Coding Horror (the guy behind the Stack Exchange network and Discourse forum software). Atwood’s focus was incorporating the best of traditional mechanical keyboards and the best of modern keyboard usability improvements. In his own words: The world is awash in terrible, crappy, no name how-cheap-can-we-make-it keyboards. There are a few dozen better mechanical keyboard options out there. I’ve owned and used at least six different expensive mechanical keyboards, but I wasn’t satisfied with any of them, either: they didn’t have backlighting, were ugly, had terrible design, or were missing basic functions like media keys. That’s why I originally contacted Weyman Kwong of WASD Keyboards way back in early 2012. I told him that the state of keyboards was unacceptable to me as a geek, and I proposed a partnership wherein I was willing to work with him to do whatever it takes to produce a truly great mechanical keyboard. Even the ardent skeptic who questions whether Atwood has indeed created a truly great mechanical keyboard certainly can’t argue with the position he starts from: there are so many agonizingly crappy keyboards out there. Even worse, in our opinion, is that unless you’re a typist of a certain vintage there’s a good chance you’ve never actually typed on a really nice keyboard. Those that didn’t start using computers until the mid-to-late 1990s most likely have always typed on modern mushy-key keyboards and never known the joy of typing on a really responsive and crisp mechanical keyboard. Is our preference for and love of mechanical keyboards shining through here? Good. We’re not even going to try and hide it. So where does the CODE keyboard stack up in pantheon of keyboards? Read on as we walk you through the simple setup and our experience using the CODE. Setting Up the CODE Keyboard Although the setup of the CODE keyboard is essentially plug and play, there are two distinct setup steps that you likely haven’t had to perform on a previous keyboard. Both highlight the degree of care put into the keyboard and the amount of customization available. Inside the box you’ll find the keyboard, a micro USB cable, a USB-to-PS2 adapter, and a tool which you may be unfamiliar with: a key puller. We’ll return to the key puller in a moment. Unlike the majority of keyboards on the market, the cord isn’t permanently affixed to the keyboard. What does this mean for you? Aside from the obvious need to plug it in yourself, it makes it dead simple to repair your own keyboard cord if it gets attacked by a pet, mangled in a mechanism on your desk, or otherwise damaged. It also makes it easy to take advantage of the cable routing channels in on the underside of the keyboard to  route your cable exactly where you want it. While we’re staring at the underside of the keyboard, check out those beefy rubber feet. By peripherals standards they’re huge (and there is six instead of the usual four). Once you plunk the keyboard down where you want it, it might as well be glued down the rubber feet work so well. After you’ve secured the cable and adjusted it to your liking, there is one more task  before plug the keyboard into the computer. On the bottom left-hand side of the keyboard, you’ll find a small recess in the plastic with some dip switches inside: The dip switches are there to switch hardware functions for various operating systems, keyboard layouts, and to enable/disable function keys. By toggling the dip switches you can change the keyboard from QWERTY mode to Dvorak mode and Colemak mode, the two most popular alternative keyboard configurations. You can also use the switches to enable Mac-functionality (for Command/Option keys). One of our favorite little toggles is the SW3 dip switch: you can disable the Caps Lock key; goodbye accidentally pressing Caps when you mean to press Shift. You can review the entire dip switch configuration chart here. The quick-start for Windows users is simple: double check that all the switches are in the off position (as seen in the photo above) and then simply toggle SW6 on to enable the media and backlighting function keys (this turns the menu key on the keyboard into a function key as typically found on laptop keyboards). After adjusting the dip switches to your liking, plug the keyboard into an open USB port on your computer (or into your PS/2 port using the included adapter). Design, Layout, and Backlighting The CODE keyboard comes in two flavors, a traditional 87-key layout (no number pad) and a traditional 104-key layout (number pad on the right hand side). We identify the layout as traditional because, despite some modern trapping and sneaky shortcuts, the actual form factor of the keyboard from the shape of the keys to the spacing and position is as classic as it comes. You won’t have to learn a new keyboard layout and spend weeks conditioning yourself to a smaller than normal backspace key or a PgUp/PgDn pair in an unconventional location. Just because the keyboard is very conventional in layout, however, doesn’t mean you’ll be missing modern amenities like media-control keys. The following additional functions are hidden in the F11, F12, Pause button, and the 2×6 grid formed by the Insert and Delete rows: keyboard illumination brightness, keyboard illumination on/off, mute, and then the typical play/pause, forward/backward, stop, and volume +/- in Insert and Delete rows, respectively. While we weren’t sure what we’d think of the function-key system at first (especially after retiring a Microsoft Sidewinder keyboard with a huge and easily accessible volume knob on it), it took less than a day for us to adapt to using the Fn key, located next to the right Ctrl key, to adjust our media playback on the fly. Keyboard backlighting is a largely hit-or-miss undertaking but the CODE keyboard nails it. Not only does it have pleasant and easily adjustable through-the-keys lighting but the key switches the keys themselves are attached to are mounted to a steel plate with white paint. Enough of the light reflects off the interior cavity of the keys and then diffuses across the white plate to provide nice even illumination in between the keys. Highlighting the steel plate beneath the keys brings us to the actual construction of the keyboard. It’s rock solid. The 87-key model, the one we tested, is 2.0 pounds. The 104-key is nearly a half pound heavier at 2.42 pounds. Between the steel plate, the extra-thick PCB board beneath the steel plate, and the thick ABS plastic housing, the keyboard has very solid feel to it. Combine that heft with the previously mentioned thick rubber feet and you have a tank-like keyboard that won’t budge a millimeter during normal use. Examining The Keys This is the section of the review the hardcore typists and keyboard ninjas have been waiting for. We’ve looked at the layout of the keyboard, we’ve looked at the general construction of it, but what about the actual keys? There are a wide variety of keyboard construction techniques but the vast majority of modern keyboards use a rubber-dome construction. The key is floated in a plastic frame over a rubber membrane that has a little rubber dome for each key. The press of the physical key compresses the rubber dome downwards and a little bit of conductive material on the inside of the dome’s apex connects with the circuit board. Despite the near ubiquity of the design, many people dislike it. The principal complaint is that dome keyboards require a complete compression to register a keystroke; keyboard designers and enthusiasts refer to this as “bottoming out”. In other words, the register the “b” key, you need to completely press that key down. As such it slows you down and requires additional pressure and movement that, over the course of tens of thousands of keystrokes, adds up to a whole lot of wasted time and fatigue. The CODE keyboard features key switches manufactured by Cherry, a company that has manufactured key switches since the 1960s. Specifically the CODE features Cherry MX Clear switches. These switches feature the same classic design of the other Cherry switches (such as the MX Blue and Brown switch lineups) but they are significantly quieter (yes this is a mechanical keyboard, but no, your neighbors won’t think you’re firing off a machine gun) as they lack the audible click found in most Cherry switches. This isn’t to say that they keyboard doesn’t have a nice audible key press sound when the key is fully depressed, but that the key mechanism isn’t doesn’t create a loud click sound when triggered. One of the great features of the Cherry MX clear is a tactile “bump” that indicates the key has been compressed enough to register the stroke. For touch typists the very subtle tactile feedback is a great indicator that you can move on to the next stroke and provides a welcome speed boost. Even if you’re not trying to break any word-per-minute records, that little bump when pressing the key is satisfying. The Cherry key switches, in addition to providing a much more pleasant typing experience, are also significantly more durable than dome-style key switch. Rubber dome switch membrane keyboards are typically rated for 5-10 million contacts whereas the Cherry mechanical switches are rated for 50 million contacts. You’d have to write the next War and Peace  and follow that up with A Tale of Two Cities: Zombie Edition, and then turn around and transcribe them both into a dozen different languages to even begin putting a tiny dent in the lifecycle of this keyboard. So what do the switches look like under the classicly styled keys? You can take a look yourself with the included key puller. Slide the loop between the keys and then gently beneath the key you wish to remove: Wiggle the key puller gently back and forth while exerting a gentle upward pressure to pop the key off; You can repeat the process for every key, if you ever find yourself needing to extract piles of cat hair, Cheeto dust, or other foreign objects from your keyboard. There it is, the naked switch, the source of that wonderful crisp action with the tactile bump on each keystroke. The last feature worthy of a mention is the N-key rollover functionality of the keyboard. This is a feature you simply won’t find on non-mechanical keyboards and even gaming keyboards typically only have any sort of key roller on the high-frequency keys like WASD. So what is N-key rollover and why do you care? On a typical mass-produced rubber-dome keyboard you cannot simultaneously press more than two keys as the third one doesn’t register. PS/2 keyboards allow for unlimited rollover (in other words you can’t out type the keyboard as all of your keystrokes, no matter how fast, will register); if you use the CODE keyboard with the PS/2 adapter you gain this ability. If you don’t use the PS/2 adapter and use the native USB, you still get 6-key rollover (and the CTRL, ALT, and SHIFT don’t count towards the 6) so realistically you still won’t be able to out type the computer as even the more finger twisting keyboard combos and high speed typing will still fall well within the 6-key rollover. The rollover absolutely doesn’t matter if you’re a slow hunt-and-peck typist, but if you’ve read this far into a keyboard review there’s a good chance that you’re a serious typist and that kind of quality construction and high-number key rollover is a fantastic feature.  The Good, The Bad, and the Verdict We’ve put the CODE keyboard through the paces, we’ve played games with it, typed articles with it, left lengthy comments on Reddit, and otherwise used and abused it like we would any other keyboard. The Good: The construction is rock solid. In an emergency, we’re confident we could use the keyboard as a blunt weapon (and then resume using it later in the day with no ill effect on the keyboard). The Cherry switches are an absolute pleasure to type on; the Clear variety found in the CODE keyboard offer a really nice middle-ground between the gun-shot clack of a louder mechanical switch and the quietness of a lesser-quality dome keyboard without sacrificing quality. Touch typists will love the subtle tactile bump feedback. Dip switch system makes it very easy for users on different systems and with different keyboard layout needs to switch between operating system and keyboard layouts. If you’re investing a chunk of change in a keyboard it’s nice to know you can take it with you to a different operating system or “upgrade” it to a new layout if you decide to take up Dvorak-style typing. The backlighting is perfect. You can adjust it from a barely-visible glow to a blazing light-up-the-room brightness. Whatever your intesity preference, the white-coated steel backplate does a great job diffusing the light between the keys. You can easily remove the keys for cleaning (or to rearrange the letters to support a new keyboard layout). The weight of the unit combined with the extra thick rubber feet keep it planted exactly where you place it on the desk. The Bad: While you’re getting your money’s worth, the $150 price tag is a shock when compared to the $20-60 price tags you find on lower-end keyboards. People used to large dedicated media keys independent of the traditional key layout (such as the large buttons and volume controls found on many modern keyboards) might be off put by the Fn-key style media controls on the CODE. The Verdict: The keyboard is clearly and heavily influenced by the needs of serious typists. Whether you’re a programmer, transcriptionist, or just somebody that wants to leave the lengthiest article comments the Internet has ever seen, the CODE keyboard offers a rock solid typing experience. Yes, $150 isn’t pocket change, but the quality of the CODE keyboard is so high and the typing experience is so enjoyable, you’re easily getting ten times the value you’d get out of purchasing a lesser keyboard. Even compared to other mechanical keyboards on the market, like the Das Keyboard, you’re still getting more for your money as other mechanical keyboards don’t come with the lovely-to-type-on Cherry MX Clear switches, back lighting, and hardware-based operating system keyboard layout switching. If it’s in your budget to upgrade your keyboard (especially if you’ve been slogging along with a low-end rubber-dome keyboard) there’s no good reason to not pickup a CODE keyboard. Key animation courtesy of Geekhack.org user Lethal Squirrel.       

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  • Sound Waves Visualized with a Chladni Plate and Colored Sand [Video]

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    This eye catching demonstration combines a Chladni Plate, four piles of colored sand, and a rubber mallet to great effect–watch as the plate vibrates pattern after pattern into the sand. A Chladni Plate, named after physicist Ernst Chladni, is a steel plate that vibrates when rubbed with a rubber ball-style mallet. Different size balls create different frequencies and each frequency creates a different pattern in the sand placed atop the plate. Watch the video above to see how rubber balls, large and small, change the patterns. [via Neatorama] Secure Yourself by Using Two-Step Verification on These 16 Web Services How to Fix a Stuck Pixel on an LCD Monitor How to Factory Reset Your Android Phone or Tablet When It Won’t Boot

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  • Convincing Upper Management the need of larger monitors for Developers

    - by The Rubber Duck
    The company I work for has recently hired on several developers, and there are a limited number of monitors to go around. There are two types in the office - a standard 15" (thankfully flatscreen) and a widescreen 23". No developer has a machine capable of a dual monitor setup, and the largest monitors went to the people who got here first. Three or four new senior level developers only have a 15" monitor to work on. To make matters worse, there are perhaps a total of 25-30 DBAs/Testers/Admin types in the company who all have dual screen 23" setups. We have brought the issue to management, and they refuse to take away large monitors from people who have been here for years for the sake of new employees, even if they are senior level. We have pitched the idea of testers sacrificing a large monitor for one of our small ones, but they won't go for that either. What can I say to management to illustrate the need of monitors for developers?

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  • Is it a good idea to always use Google as the first step to solving a problem? [closed]

    - by The Rubber Duck
    Possible Duplicate: Importance of learning to google efficiently for a programmer? Avoiding lengthy discussions, as a senior level student in CS, how can I get away from Googling problems I run into? I find myself using it too much; I seemingly reach for the instant answer and then blindly copy and paste code, hoping it works. Anyone can do that. I've read the related threads about being a better programmer, but mostly those recommend practicing on pet projects, which I have done, but again I feel EVERY wall encountered, from design through completion, was hurdled with Google. Do professionals instantly "research" their problem? Or do you guys step back and try and figure it out yourselves? I'm talking about both 'algorithm/design' problems as well as compiler issues.

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  • Roll Your Own Flexi-Ties to Secure and Store Frequently Used Cables

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    If you’re looking for an easy way to hang up or tidy frequently used cables, these DIY soft ties are durable, resuable, and easy to make. Soft ties ties are metal wire ties coated in rubber; people use them for everything from securing computer cables to shaping garden plants. Instructables user Bobzjr wanted a lot of them but couldn’t find anyone that sold bulk roles of the soft tie material. To that end he did a little exploring at the hardware store and found the perfect combination of wire and rubber to roll his own. Hit up the link below for more information on his DIY soft tie project. Roll Your Own Flexi-Ties (Soft Twist Ties) [Instructables] How To Properly Scan a Photograph (And Get An Even Better Image) The HTG Guide to Hiding Your Data in a TrueCrypt Hidden Volume Make Your Own Windows 8 Start Button with Zero Memory Usage

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  • Would Lisp be extremely difficult for a new(ish) programmer to learn?

    - by Rubber Duchy
    I've got a little experience with Python (enough to where I can do if/else/elif and some random number generation), but I've always had a weird fascination with the Lisp languages. I downloaded some scheme source code to look at the syntax but it was pretty much gibberish to me. For a programmer with only a little programming experience like myself, given some good books, websites, and some time, would it be particularly difficult to learn either Common Lisp or Scheme? Which of the two would be easier? How do they compare with Python and C, as far as ease of learning? Thanks

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  • Multiple column subselect in mysql 5 (5.1.42)

    - by rubber boots
    This one seems to be a simple problem, but I can't make it work in a single select or nested select. Retrieve the authors and (if any) advisers of a paper (article) into one row. I order to explain the problem, here are the two data tables (pseudo) papers (id, title, c_year) persons (id, firstname, lastname) plus a link table w/one extra attribute (pseudo): paper_person_roles( paper_id person_id act_role ENUM ('AUTHOR', 'ADVISER') ) This is basically a list of written papers (table: papers) and a list of staff and/or students (table: persons) An article my have (1,N) authors. An article may have (0,N) advisers. A person can be in 'AUTHOR' or 'ADVISER' role (but not at the same time). The application eventually puts out table rows containing the following entries: TH: || Paper_ID | Author(s) | Title | Adviser(s) | TD: || 21334 |John Doe, Jeff Tucker|Why the moon looks yellow|Brown, Rayleigh| ... My first approach was like: select/extract a full list of articles into the application, eg.SELECT q.id, q.title FROM papers AS q ORDER BY q.c_year and save the results of the query into an array (in the application). After this step, loop over the array of the returned information and retrieve authors and advisers (if any), via prepared statement (? is the paper's id) from the link table like:APPLICATION_LOOP(paper_ids in array) SELECT p.lastname, p.firstname, r.act_role FROM persons AS p, paper_person_roles AS r WHERE p.id=r.person_id AND r.paper_id = ? # The application does further processing from here (pseudo): foreach record from resulting records if record.act_role eq 'AUTHOR' then join to author_column if record.act_role eq 'ADVISER' then join to avdiser_column end print id, author_column, title, adviser_column APPLICATION_LOOP This works so far and gives the desired output. Would it make sense to put the computation back into the DB? I'm not very proficient in nontrivial SQL and can't find a solution with a single (combined or nested) select call. I tried sth. like SELECT q.title (CONCAT_WS(' ', (SELECT p.firstname, p.lastname AS aunames FROM persons AS p, paper_person_roles AS r WHERE q.id=r.paper_id AND r.act_role='AUTHOR') ) ) AS aulist FROM papers AS q, persons AS p, paper_person_roles AS r in several variations, but no luck ... Maybe there is some chance? Thanks in advance r.b.

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  • Isopropyl okay to use on MacBook screen?

    - by Archagon
    I've always used a mixture of isopropyl alcohol and distilled water to clean my computer screens (50% water and 50% * 70% isopropyl). From what I understand, these are exactly the same ingredients used in most commercial screen cleaners, perhaps even more diluted. I recently used this solution to wipe off my 2010 MacBook Pro screen, and there don't seem to be any problems, but this support page explicitly says not to use isopropyl. Now I'm worried that I might have inadvertently damaged something. I'm also concerned because I once managed to dissolve the surface rubber lining of one of my mice with the isopropyl solution, and the MacBook Pro display has a thin rubber bezel keeping the glass in place. Why would Apple single out isopropyl on their support page? Should I be concerned?

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  • Isopropyl okay to use on MacBook screen?

    - by Archagon
    I've always used a mixture of isopropyl alcohol and distilled water to clean my computer screens (50% water and 50% * 70% isopropyl). From what I understand, these are exactly the same ingredients used in most commercial screen cleaners, perhaps even more diluted. I recently used this solution to wipe off my 2010 MacBook Pro screen, and there don't seem to be any problems, but this support page explicitly says not to use isopropyl. Now I'm worried that I might have inadvertently damaged something. I'm also concerned because I once managed to dissolve the surface rubber lining of one of my mice with the isopropyl solution, and the MacBook Pro display has a thin rubber bezel keeping the glass in place. Why would Apple single out isopropyl on their support page? Should I be concerned?

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  • Replace Hard Drive in Samsung NP900X1A - Need Disassembly Help Please

    - by xedgex
    Need to clone and restore existing 64GB HDD onto a 256GB HDD, can't manage to gain access to the internals of this laptop. I checked with Samsung, they do not make manuals available nor will they help over the phone as to how to remove the bottom cover of this Samsung NP900X1A Laptop. They did offer to sell me a manual BUT they are out of stock for another 10-15 days. I saw the screws under the 4 rubber feet and 4 rubber grommets, all removed but the cover is still on. Does anyone know if there are more screws to take off here? Also, I assume this replacement HDD will work (facto

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  • Does Unity's "Transparent Bumped Specular" translate to "semi-shiny must be semi-transparent"?

    - by Shivan Dragon
    Unity's documentation for the "Transparent Bumped Specular" shader/material-type is simply a concatenation of each of the descriptions for its Transparent and Specular Shaders (and also Bumped, but that doesn't apply to the question): Transparent Properties This shader can make mesh geometry partially or fully transparent by reading the alpha channel of the main texture. In the alpha, 0 (black) is completely transparent while 255 (white) is completely opaque. If your main texture does not have an alpha channel, the object will appear completely opaque. (...) Specular Properties (...) Additionally, the alpha channel of the main texture acts as a Specular Map (sometimes called "gloss map"), defining which areas of the object are more reflective than others. Black areas of the alpha will be zero specular reflection, while white areas will be full specular reflection. To me this translates to: I have a mesh representig a car tire The texture need to be very shiny on the rims parts, and almost not shiny at all for the rubber parts Also since the rim is really complex, (with like cut-out decoretions and such), I will not build that into the mesh, but fake it with transparency in the texture I can't do all this using Unity's "Transparent Bumped Specular" shader, because the "rubber" part of the texture will become semi transparent due to me painting the alpha channel dark-grey (because I want it to also be less shiny). Is this correct? If not, how can I make this work?

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  • Chrome OS is missing or damaged

    - by Ken
    My Google Chrome CR-48 started flaking out/rebooting and finally this message.  This post solved the problem quite easily. http://cr-48.wikispaces.com/Reseat+SSD+Cable Two hints: 1) you need to pull off the rubber feet to get at some screws. 2) the real problem is the little white clip under the cable.  Don’t worry about reseating anything, Just push the cable back on and the little white clip back up to snap in place and hold the cable.

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  • Mounting 2.5" SSD in Antec Atlas 550's 3.5" bay

    - by cecilkorik
    Just got some new SSDs to add to my servers, unfortunately there doesn't appear to be anywhere to actually mount them. The cases are Antec Atlas 550 mid-tower server cases. The problem is that the 3.5" bays are intended for 3.5" hard drives (obviously) not SSDs, so they are mounted from the bottom with rubber grommets to reduce vibration. There are NO side-holes in any of the 3.5" bays, all mounting has to be done from the bottom of the drive, through the thick rubber grommets, which requires special extra-long screws with large heads. Those screws will not work with the SSD, the thread is too coarse, 2.5" drives apparently use M3 screws with a finer pitch. The case's 3.5" bays have holes aligned for 2.5" drives and by moving the grommets into the appropriate holes they line up with the SSD. But that's as far as I can get. I don't have and cannot find any screws that use the finer M3 pitch that are long enough and have the wide head. I can't remove the grommets because the screw holes are much too wide without them, the entire head of the screw fits through. And again, there are no side-holes, so I can't use the mounting bracket that came with the drive nor any other 2.5"-3.5" bracket I've found. Here is a pic of what I am dealing with (note that the SSD is just resting on the case, it's not currently screwed in if that's not clear) Any ideas for safely mounting these little guys without resorting to duct tape or superglue would be very appreciated. If anyone knows where I could buy the appropriate type of M3 threaded screw or has any other ideas please help me out here.

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  • How do I repair my Logitech Anywhere MX?

    - by Stefano Palazzo
    My Anywhere Mouse has got mushy mouse button syndrome. That is, the left mouse button feels a little bit soft, and it easily double clicks, let's go when I drag something. Before I repair it at home, rather than bringing it to the store (I kind of need it, it's the only one I have), I'd like to know exactly what I'm doing. It'd be too bad if I tried to repair it, voided the warranty and didn't succeed. I'm guessing there are screws to open it under the rubber pads. And I suppose I can take those off without breaking them, and put them back on without bending them. How is this mouse held together, and what's the safest way to open it? Once I have it open, will I be able to fix the problem? What's causing the mushy mouse button? Here's what I know so far: It might be the switch itself that's broken, in which case I shouldn't open it (I can't get a replacement, voiding the warranty to "have a look" seems pointless) If there are screws underneath the rubber pads, they're only on the 'front', the back two thirds of the mouse are all battery cover: There's nothing I can see under the batteries either. In the mouse I had before this one, there were sort of springy things connecting the actual button with the switch soldered to the board. They were just lying inside of a bit of plastic, and I could swap the left and right ones easily. If repairing it is more difficult, transferring the problem to the right mouse button would be a very good start.

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  • Run a rails server on Amazon EC2 [on hold]

    - by Jashwant
    Context: I've tried rubber gem, but that does not fulfill my requirements ( I needed to deploy on existing instance, so don't recommend me rubber) So, I followed this excellent tutorial http://stackoverflow.com/questions/15535140/installing-ruby-2-0-and-rails-4-0-0beta-on-aws-ec2 Now, I have ruby 2.0 and rails 4.0.0 running on AWS EC2. I successfully ran the server with RDS (mysql) as db and default webrick as server ( Using command rails server ) But, I've read that webrick is a development server and shouldn't be used at production. What I tried: I googled and came up with some alternatives. Capistrano Nginx / apache with passenger Passenger with Capistrano Unicorn Puma My Question: What exactly is capistrano / passenger ? Are they middleware to ease my deployment process ? I don't see any difficulty in doing rails server command. If they are just middleware, nginx with passenger and capistrano does not make any sense ? Why would I add a learning curve ( to learn nginx, passenger and capistrano configs) just to run my server ? I can just use nginx to deploy my app. Can't I ? What combination should I use on Amazon EC2 (or may be at any some other production server).

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  • Which static electricity prevention tools do actually work?

    - by Boris_yo
    I need a device that would discharge static electricity from my body in order to safely work with electronics. I have looked and found some that interested me, but I don't know whether they work: Anti-Static Wrist Strap Anti-Static Release Discharger Keychain Anti-Dissipative Wrist Strap Anti-Static Rubber Finger Stalls Which of above mentioned actually do something? Do I also need and anti-static screw box? It has holes that screws get put in. Will I need magnetic screwdriver to pull screws out?

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  • How can I install a package without installing some dependencies?

    - by Alex
    I'm trying to install the package LaTeXila, and the output looks like this: $ sudo apt-get install latexila --no-install-recommends Reading package lists... Done Building dependency tree Reading state information... Done The following extra packages will be installed: latexila-data latexmk luatex tex-common texlive-base texlive-binaries texlive-common texlive-doc-base texlive-latex-base Suggested packages: rubber texlive-latex-extra debhelper Recommended packages: texlive texlive-latex-recommended texlive-luatex lmodern texlive-latex-base-doc The following NEW packages will be installed: latexila latexila-data latexmk luatex tex-common texlive-base texlive-binaries texlive-common texlive-doc-base texlive-latex-base 0 upgraded, 10 newly installed, 0 to remove and 0 not upgraded. Need to get 29.3 MB of archives. After this operation, 74.5 MB of additional disk space will be used. Do you want to continue [Y/n]? I don't want to install the texlive packages. I've installed texlive manually from http://www.tug.org/texlive/. Any suggestions?

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  • How To Make Disposable Sleeves for Your In-Ear Monitors

    - by YatriTrivedi
    In-ear monitors are great, until the rubber sleeves stop being comfortable. Here’s a quick and cheap way to make disposable ones using foam ear plugs so you can stay comfortable while listening. Latest Features How-To Geek ETC Macs Don’t Make You Creative! So Why Do Artists Really Love Apple? MacX DVD Ripper Pro is Free for How-To Geek Readers (Time Limited!) HTG Explains: What’s a Solid State Drive and What Do I Need to Know? How to Get Amazing Color from Photos in Photoshop, GIMP, and Paint.NET Learn To Adjust Contrast Like a Pro in Photoshop, GIMP, and Paint.NET Have You Ever Wondered How Your Operating System Got Its Name? Lakeside Sunset in the Mountains [Wallpaper] Taskbar Meters Turn Your Taskbar into a System Resource Monitor Create Shortcuts for Your Favorite or Most Used Folders in Ubuntu Create Custom Sized Thumbnail Images with Simple Image Resizer [Cross-Platform] Etch a Circuit Board using a Simple Homemade Mixture Sync Blocker Stops iTunes from Automatically Syncing

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  • How do you properly word a Google search when you don't even have a solution in mind? [closed]

    - by Bruno Romaszkiewicz
    So, I'm stuck on a problem, looking for a solution, my rubber duck can't help me, my co-workers can't help me. Next natural step is research, right? Google can help me, He always can. Or so I'm told. My problem is, I never found much use for Google when looking for a programming solution, it's very useful for finding how to implement one, but when you don't even know where to start, how do you properly word a Google search? Is there any other option?

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  • How do you pronounce "Latex"?

    - by Brian
    How do you pronounce "Latex"? In university my lecturers all called it LAY-tec, but I was just listing to StackOverflow podcast #69 where Joel and Jeff call it LAH-tec. I've also heard LAY-tex (like latex rubber) but that pronunciation seems to be universally shunned but people who actually use Latex.

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