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  • Why the different coarse threaded screws?

    - by Luke
    I'm seeing more and more of these screws (pictured below), which are almost triangular. I find I can only put them into Power Supplies and PCI(e) cards in cases, but they will break/strip away if I put them into a hard drive or a standoff for a motherboard Notice the triangular shape on it? On the Root Access chat, I started asking, but no concrete answer yet. I don't assume it's a production flaw, as I've seen hundreds and replaced them with the "proper" round screws. It is coarse-threaded, not fine-threaded (i.e. for a DVD drive or floppy drive). What are they for, and why do we need them instead of the regular round ones?

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  • Blender mesh mirroring screws up normals when importing in Unity

    - by Shivan Dragon
    My issue is as follows: I've modeled a robot in Blender 2.6. It's a mech-like biped or if you prefer, it kindda looks like a chicken. Since it's symmetrical on the XZ plane, I've decided to mirror some of its parts instead of re-modeling them. Problem is, those mirrored meshes look fine in Blender (faces all show up properly and light falls on them as it should) but in Unity faces and lighting on those very same mirrored meshes is wrong. What also stumps me is the fact that even if I flip normals in Blender, I still get bad results in Unity for those meshes (though now I get different bad results than before). Here's the details: Here's a Blender screen shot of the robot. I've took 2 pictures and slightly rotated the camera around so the geometry in question can be clearly seen: Now, the selected cog-wheel-like piece is the mirrored mesh obtained from mirroring the other cog-wheel on the other (far) side of the robot torso. The back-face culling is turned of here, so it's actually showing the faces as dictated by their normals. As you can see it looks ok, faces are orientated correctly and light falls on it ok (as it does on the original cog-wheel from which it was mirrored). Now if I export this as fbx using the following settings: and then import it into Unity, it looks all screwy: It looks like the normals are in the wrong direction. This is already very strange, because, while in Blender, the original cog-wheel and its mirrored counter part both had normals facing one way, when importing this in Unity, the original cog-wheel still looks ok (like in Blender) but the mirrored one now has normals inverted. First thing I've tried is to go "ok, so I'll flip normals in Blender for the mirrored cog-wheel and then it'll display ok in Unity and that's that". So I went back to Blender, flipped the normals on that mesh, so now it looks bad in Blender: and then re-exported as fbx with the same settings as before, and re-imported into Unity. Sure enough the cog-wheel now looks ok in Unity, in the sense where the faces show up properly, but if you look closely you'll notice that light and shadows are now wrong: Now in Unity, even though the light comes from the back of the robot, the cog-wheel in question acts as if light was coming from some-where else, its faces which should be in shadow are lit up, and those that should be lit up are dark. Here's some things I've tried and which didn't do anything: in Blender I tried mirroring the mesh in 2 ways: first by using the scale to -1 trick, then by using the mirroring tool (select mesh, hit crtl-m, select mirror axis), both ways yield the exact same result in Unity I've tried playing around with the prefab import settings like "normals: import/calculate", "tangents: import/calculate" I've also tired not exporting as fbx manually from Blender, but just dropping the .blend file in the assets folder inside the Unity project So, my question is: is there a way to actually mirror a mesh in Blender and then have it imported in Unity so that it displays properly (as it does in Blender)? If yes, how? Thank you, and please excuse the TL;DR style.

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  • Nails vs Screws (C# List vs Dictionary)

    - by MarkPearl
    General This may sound like a typical noob statement, but I’m finding out in a very real way that just because you have a solution to a problem, doesn’t necessarily mean it is the best solution. This was reiterated to me when a friend of mine suggested I look at using Dictionaries instead of Lists for a particular problem – he was right, I have always just assumed that because lists solved my problem I did not need to look elsewhere. So my new manifesto to counter this ageless problem is as follows… Look for a solution that will logically work Once you have a solution look for possible alternatives Decide why your current solution is the best approach compared to the alternatives If it is.. use it till something better comes along, if it isnt…. change What’s the difference between Lists & Dictionaries Both lists and dictionaries are used to store collections of data. Assume we had the following declarations… var dic = new Dictionary<string, long>(); var lst = new List<long>(); long data;   With a list, you simply add the item to the list and it will add the item to the end of the list. lst.Add(data); With a dictionary, you need to specify some sort of key and the data you want to add so that it can be uniquely identified. dic.Add(uniquekey, data);   Because with a dictionary you now have unique identifier, in the background they provide all sort’s of optimized algorithms to find your associated data. What this means is that if you are wanting to access your data it is a lot faster than a List. So when is it appropriate to use either class? For me, if I can guarantee that each item in my collection will have a unique identifier, then I will use Dictionaries instead of Lists as there is a considerable performance benefit when accessing each data item. If I cannot make this sort of guarantee, then by default I will use a list. I know this is all really basic, and I hope I haven’t missed some fundamental principle… If anyone would like to add their 2 cents, please feel free to do so…

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  • How to get new screws for HP Dv7 laptop

    - by blaine
    The other day I have noticed that there are 3 screws missing from the bottom of my 3 month old HP Pavilion dv7t-7000 laptop. This is causing me various problems such as an unstable screen, and who knows what else soon. My laptop is still under the basic warranty, however, I live outside the USA where I purchased it. What is the best way to get replacement screws for my laptop besides looking around the house and trying to find one that fits? Let me know if you need pictures

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  • SSH sometimes screws up connection when terminal overflows?

    - by SeveQ
    I've got a problem with SSH on a Debian Lenny based server (it's a vHost within a Xen environment, booted on a Xen kernel). I hope someone can help me with this. The SSH connection seems somehow getting screwed up frequently when the terminal overflows (new lines beyond the bottom of the terminal, usually forcing it to scroll). The connection gets lost but not regularly disconnected. It nearly always happens when I do the following: an existing SSH connection gets disconnected (regularly) I order putty to reestablish the connection login-prompt appears at the very bottom of the putty terminal window I enter my login-name, press the enter key I'm asked for the password, I enter it, press the enter key and BOOM! Nothing more happens. I have to reconnect again. So it is reproducable. I'm not totally sure if the connection crashes before or after I enter the password. Furthermore it also happens when there is much text to be displayed (for example when I compile something or do an ls -l on a directory with many entries). Using 'screen', however, helps to reduces the frequency of occurence but doesn't solve the problem completely. It's occurence is independent from which terminal software I use. I mostly use putty but it also happens with other clients. I certainly hope somebody can help me solving this problem. Thanks in advance! //edit: I've just made a Wireshark trace of the ssh connection and there is nothing, I repeat, nothing different between the working and the failing connection (at least aside from frame numbers, ports and times that obviously can't be equal). This leads me to the assumption that the error has to happen on the server's side.

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  • Microsoft mouse screws up my power settings

    - by Patriot
    Running a new computer with Windows 7 and 64-bit OS. Had a wireless Logitech mouse that worked perfectly with this set up. The mouse was old, and the buttons were sticking and causing double clicks, so I bought a new Microsoft Mobile Wireless 3000 mouse to replace it. The new mouse works perfectly, but now my screen saver is disabled and my computer won't go into sleep mode after 15 minutes as per my power setting. If I hook the Logitech mouse back up, screen saver works fine and computer goes to sleep as it should. Am I missing something, or is Microsoft's mouse just junk. Got no software with the new mouse, so no drivers seem available.

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  • write.table in R screws up header when has rownames

    - by Yannick Wurm
    Hello, check this example: > a = matrix(1:9, nrow = 3, ncol = 3, dimnames = list(LETTERS[1:3], LETTERS[1:3])) > a A B C A 1 4 7 B 2 5 8 C 3 6 9 the table displays correctly. There are two different ways of writing it to file... write.csv(a, 'a.csv') which gives as expected: "","A","B","C" "A",1,4,7 "B",2,5,8 "C",3,6,9 and write.table(a, 'a.txt') which screws up "A" "B" "C" "A" 1 4 7 "B" 2 5 8 "C" 3 6 9 indeed, an empty tab is missing.... which is a pain in the butt for downstream things. Is this a bug or a feature? Is there a workaround? (other than write.table(cbind(rownames(a), a), 'a.txt', row.names=FALSE) Cheers, yannick

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  • Accordion - Expand/Collapse - but first panel is opened and screws it up

    - by lorenzium
    Hey guys, I've got an accordion which has the first panel opened on default by throwing in: $("h4#open").trigger('click'); (which triggers the first panel to act as if the h4 link were clicked, and thus opened...) But this seems to screw up the only way I can think of expanding / collapsing all the panels. I have this code to expand / collapse: $("a.ex-col").click(function(){ $("div.accordion div").slideToggle("slow"); return false; }); When using this, all the panels toggle open and close except any panel that happens to be open (or closed) at the time. How can I keep the default div opened on load, while also expanding / collapsing with the rest of them? Thanks.

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  • SubSonic 3 screws up selecteditem?

    - by SteveCav
    If you have a moment, please try this: -Download Subsonic 3. -Start a new proj and add SS's ActiveRecord templates. -Point it to any SQL Server DB and generate the classes. -Add a WPF project. -Create a window and add a combobox or listbox. -Set the ItemsSource from the SS DAL, and format it how you wish. -Add a button that will show you some value from the SelectedItem (using messagebox, console, whatever). -Run the project. -Click on the third item in the list. -Click on the second item in the list. -Click on the button. When I do that, the button gives me the value of the THIRD item, not the second. In other words, once the SelectedItem is set the first time it STAYS, no matter which item is subsequently highlighted on the screen. This is happening to me whatever control I use (combobox, listbox, even datagrid) and it ONLY happens with Subsonic Activerecord objects. If I write my own POCOs with identical properties and bind a list of them instead, the controls behave as expected. Does this happen to you? Any ideas?

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  • context.Scale() with non-aspect ratio preserving parameters screws effective lineWith

    - by rrenaud
    I am trying to apply some natural transformations whereby the x axis is remapped to some very small domain, like from 0 to 1, whereas y is remapped to some small, but substantially larger domain, like 0 to 30. This way, drawing code can be nice and clean and only care about the model space. However, if I apply a scale, then lines are also scaled, which means that horizontal lines become extremely fat relative to vertical ones. Here is some sample code. When natural_height is much less than natural_height, the picture doesn't look as intended. I want the picture to look like this, which is what happens with a scale that preserves aspect ratio. rftgstats.c om/canvas_good.png However, with a non-aspect ratio preserving scale, the results look like this. rftgstats.c om/canvas_bad.png <html><head><title>Busted example</title></head> <body> <canvas id=example height=300 width=300> <script> var canvas = document.getElementById('example'); var ctx = canvas.getContext('2d'); var natural_width = 10; var natural_height = 50; ctx.scale(canvas.width / natural_width, canvas.height / natural_height); var numLines = 20; ctx.beginPath(); for (var i = 0; i < numLines; ++i) { ctx.moveTo(natural_width / 2, natural_height / 2); var angle = 2 * Math.PI * i / numLines; // yay for screen size independent draw calls. ctx.lineTo(natural_width / 2 + natural_width * Math.cos(angle), natural_height / 2 + natural_height * Math.sin(angle)); } ctx.stroke(); ctx.closePath(); </script> </body> </html>

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  • Just when I thought my site was working right, it screws up in IE7

    - by John
    I thought I'd done quite well, my site passed XHTML1.0 strict validation and worked flawlessly in IE6 as well as looking fine in IE8 & Chrome. I glibly thought that it it worked in IE6 & 8, IE7 was bound to be OK. But on checking I see one of my has a scrollbar in IE7, the seems about 200% as wide as it should be... the content is fine but you can scroll the whole . 2 separate pages have this issue, a 3rd does not, even though all pages use the same layout template - the main difference on the 2 that break is a floated div. Are there known issues specifically in this area with IE7? Or do I have to embarrass myself by posting a link to the site?

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  • Spaces and Parenthesis in windows PATH variable screws up batch files.

    - by NoName
    So, my path variable (System-Adv Settings-Env Vars-System-PATH) is set to: C:\Python26\Lib\site-packages\PyQt4\bin; %SystemRoot%\system32; %SystemRoot%; %SystemRoot%\System32\Wbem; %SYSTEMROOT%\System32\WindowsPowerShell\v1.0\; C:\Python26\; C:\Python26\Scripts\; C:\cygwin\bin; "C:\PathWithSpaces\What_is_this_bullshit"; "C:\PathWithSpaces 1.5\What_is_this_bullshit_1.5"; "C:\PathWithSpaces (2.0)\What_is_this_bullshit_2.0"; "C:\Program Files (x86)\IronPython 2.6"; "C:\Program Files (x86)\Subversion\bin"; "C:\Program Files (x86)\Git\cmd"; "C:\Program Files (x86)\PuTTY"; "C:\Program Files (x86)\Mercurial"; Z:\droid\android-sdk-windows\tools; Although, obviously, without the newlines. Notice the lines containing PathWithSpaces - the first has no spaces, the second has a space, and the third has a space followed by a parenthesis. Now, notice the output of this batch file: C:\Program Files (x86)\Microsoft Visual Studio 9.0\VC\bin\>vcvars32.bat C:\Program Files (x86)\Microsoft Visual Studio 9.0\VC\bin>"C:\Program Files (x86 )\Microsoft Visual Studio 9.0\Common7\Tools\vsvars32.bat" Setting environment for using Microsoft Visual Studio 2008 x86 tools. \What_is_this_bullshit_2.0";"C:\Program was unexpected at this time. C:\Program Files (x86)\Microsoft Visual Studio 9.0\VC\bin> set "PATH=C:\Pro gram Files\Microsoft SDKs\Windows\v6.0A\bin;C:\Python26\Lib\site-packages\PyQt4\ bin;C:\Windows\system32;C:\Windows;C:\Windows\System32\Wbem;C:\Windows\System32\ WindowsPowerShell\v1.0\;C:\Python26\;C:\Python26\Scripts\;C:\cygwin\bin;"C:\Path WithSpaces\What_is_this_bullshit";"C:\PathWithSpaces 1.5\What_is_this_bullshit_1 .5";"C:\PathWithSpaces (2.0)\What_is_this_bullshit_2.0";"C:\Program Files (x86)\ IronPython 2.6";"C:\Program Files (x86)\Subversion\bin";"C:\Program Files (x86)\ Git\cmd";"C:\Program Files (x86)\PuTTY";"C:\Program Files (x86)\Mercurial";Z:\dr oid\android-sdk-windows\tools;" or specifically the line: \What_is_this_bullshit_2.0";"C:\Program was unexpected at this time. So, what is this bullshit? Specifically: Directory in path that is properly escaped with quotes, but with no spaces = fine Directory in path that is properly escaped with quotes, and has spaces but no parenthesis = fine Directory in path that is properly escaped with quotes, and has spaces and has a parenthesis = ERROR Whats going on here? How can I fix this? I'll probably resort to a junction point to let my tools still work as workaround, but if you have any insight into this, please let me know :)

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  • PC case and PSU screw question....

    - by user32569
    Hi, I have maybe a funny one to ask.... To this Christmass I bought new PC. When I started to asseble it, I found that my case (Artic Cooling Silentium T11) has 12 screws for HDD, DVD etc, and 6 screws for the expansion cards. Well, first thing that surprised me was, why only 6 screws for expansion card, when case has actually 7 slots. And second, what are PSU screws supposed to some with? The PSU, Case or nothing? Becouse neighter PSU or Case had them. PSU is Evolve Storm 600W. Well, I know case and PSU are not some high end devices, but still, would it hurt them to add 1 screw for expansion cards and 4 for PSU? So, my question is, is this situation normall, or which one (Case or PSU) does normally screws come with? Thanks.

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  • Mounting 2.5" SSD in Antec Atlas 550's 3.5" bay

    - by cecilkorik
    Just got some new SSDs to add to my servers, unfortunately there doesn't appear to be anywhere to actually mount them. The cases are Antec Atlas 550 mid-tower server cases. The problem is that the 3.5" bays are intended for 3.5" hard drives (obviously) not SSDs, so they are mounted from the bottom with rubber grommets to reduce vibration. There are NO side-holes in any of the 3.5" bays, all mounting has to be done from the bottom of the drive, through the thick rubber grommets, which requires special extra-long screws with large heads. Those screws will not work with the SSD, the thread is too coarse, 2.5" drives apparently use M3 screws with a finer pitch. The case's 3.5" bays have holes aligned for 2.5" drives and by moving the grommets into the appropriate holes they line up with the SSD. But that's as far as I can get. I don't have and cannot find any screws that use the finer M3 pitch that are long enough and have the wide head. I can't remove the grommets because the screw holes are much too wide without them, the entire head of the screw fits through. And again, there are no side-holes, so I can't use the mounting bracket that came with the drive nor any other 2.5"-3.5" bracket I've found. Here is a pic of what I am dealing with (note that the SSD is just resting on the case, it's not currently screwed in if that's not clear) Any ideas for safely mounting these little guys without resorting to duct tape or superglue would be very appreciated. If anyone knows where I could buy the appropriate type of M3 threaded screw or has any other ideas please help me out here.

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  • 12-24 rack, 10-32 server thumbscrew. How to mount?

    - by JJ.
    We have just purchased a APC rack (model AR204A) with 12-24 threaded holes. We couldn't get a "square hole" model in time for our setup deadline. Unfortunately our rack servers (Lenovo RD240) appear to have 10-32 thumbscrews for securing the server to the rack. We've successfully mounted the server rails to the rack using 12-24 screws however the 10-32 thumbscrews in the server front won't "grab" the 12-24 holes in the rack, thus there is nothing to stop the server from sliding right off the rack if pushed from the back. The thumb screws on the server don't seem to be removable, so we can't simply use 12-24 screws instead. Any suggestions on how to work around this problem? Is there any way to "convert" a 12-24 hole to a 10-32 thread (or similar approach)? Thanks in advance.

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  • Which static electricity prevention tools do actually work?

    - by Boris_yo
    I need a device that would discharge static electricity from my body in order to safely work with electronics. I have looked and found some that interested me, but I don't know whether they work: Anti-Static Wrist Strap Anti-Static Release Discharger Keychain Anti-Dissipative Wrist Strap Anti-Static Rubber Finger Stalls Which of above mentioned actually do something? Do I also need and anti-static screw box? It has holes that screws get put in. Will I need magnetic screwdriver to pull screws out?

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  • Strategy to use two different measurement systems in software

    - by Dennis
    I have an application that needs to accept and output values in both US Custom Units and Metric system. Right now the conversion and input and output is a mess. You can only enter in US system, but you can choose the output to be US or Metric, and the code to do the conversions is everywhere. So I want to organize this and put together some simple rules. So I came up with this: Rules user can enter values in either US or Metric, and User Interface will take care of marking this properly All units internally will be stored as US, since the majority of the system already has most of the data stored like that and depends on this. It shouldn't matter I suppose as long as you don't mix unit. All output will be in US or Metric, depending on user selection/choice/preference. In theory this sounds great and seems like a solution. However, one little problem I came across is this: There is some data stored in code or in the database that already returns data like this: 4 x 13/16" screws, which means "four times screws". I need the to be in either US or Metric. Where exactly do I put the conversion code for doing the conversion for this unit? The above already mixing presentation and data, but the data for the field I need to populate is that whole string. I can certainly split it up into the number 4, the 13/16", and the " x " and the " screws", but the question remains... where do I put the conversion code? Different Locations for Conversion Routines 1) Right now the string is in a class where it's produced. I can put conversion code right into that class and it may be a good solution. Except then, I want to be consistent so I will be putting conversion procedures everywhere in the code at-data-source, or right after reading it from the database. The problem though is I think that my code will have to deal with two systems, all throughout the codebase after this, should I do this. 2) According to the rules, my idea was to put it in the view script, aka last change to modify it before it is shown to the user. And it may be the right thing to do, but then it strikes me it may not always be the best solution. (First, it complicates the view script a tad, second, I need to do more work on the data side to split things up more, or do extra parsing, such as in my case above). 3) Another solution is to do this somewhere in the data prep step before the view, aka somewhere in the middle, before the view, but after the data-source. This strikes me as messy and that could be the reason why my codebase is in such a mess right now. It seems that there is no best solution. What do I do?

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  • Disassemble Asus A2500H

    - by Stijn Sanders
    I have an aged Asus A2500H notebook, with a broken screen and damage to the outside. Since it has a TV-out connection, and is working good otherwise, I have it hooked up to my television as a kind of media-center to play video over LAN. I want to remove the screen as cleanly as possible, but am having trouble opening up the laptop. I've been able to remove the (broken) hinges the screen pivots on. I've also removed any other screws I could spot, but still the casing doesn't come off and seems to be attached by yet more screws I can't access (yet). I've been searching the web for disassemble instructions, I've found some for a number of other brands and models, but not for the Asus A2500H.

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  • Replace Hard Drive in Samsung NP900X1A - Need Disassembly Help Please

    - by xedgex
    Need to clone and restore existing 64GB HDD onto a 256GB HDD, can't manage to gain access to the internals of this laptop. I checked with Samsung, they do not make manuals available nor will they help over the phone as to how to remove the bottom cover of this Samsung NP900X1A Laptop. They did offer to sell me a manual BUT they are out of stock for another 10-15 days. I saw the screws under the 4 rubber feet and 4 rubber grommets, all removed but the cover is still on. Does anyone know if there are more screws to take off here? Also, I assume this replacement HDD will work (facto

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  • Is there other usage of Comcast extension cable and splitter?

    - by Tim
    I have an unused Comcast high-speed internet self-install kit from 2006. It has two coils of extension cable, and a splitter, and some screws. The name of the cable is "extension cable" printed on the package. I wonder if that is its actual name? As ethernet cables are always useful, I wonder if the extension cables are totally worthless and should be tossed into a trash can? Or are they usable for some other purposes, or even sellable? Thanks! SVI Digital SV-2G Splitter (5/1000MHz): One interface of the cables: Screws

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  • How does one dismantle the ThinkPad Mini Dock Series 3 (model 4337)?

    - by Whaa
    I have a ThinkPad Mini Dock Series 3 with a spring that is too stiff, causing problems with the connectivity when a computer is docked. I tried to open it so that I can soften the spring, but hit a brick wall. I removed all the screws I could find at the the bottom and the back panel of the docking station, but the bottom part of the plastic case would still not part from the top of the plastic case. I even looked under some of the various stickers for more screws, but found nothing. Can anyone please help with pointers on dismantling this docking station?

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  • Chrome OS is missing or damaged

    - by Ken
    My Google Chrome CR-48 started flaking out/rebooting and finally this message.  This post solved the problem quite easily. http://cr-48.wikispaces.com/Reseat+SSD+Cable Two hints: 1) you need to pull off the rubber feet to get at some screws. 2) the real problem is the little white clip under the cable.  Don’t worry about reseating anything, Just push the cable back on and the little white clip back up to snap in place and hold the cable.

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  • Change Laptop Wireless Card?

    - by Craig
    I have just bought a new Samsung RV511 Laptop (the i5 Version). Anyway it comes installed with a Broadcom Wifi Card, I have a Super Atheros Mini Wifi Card that I would like to swap for the Broadcom one. I use Atheros for security auditing purposes in Linux that the Broadcom one is not good for. Trouble is I have never got to the barebones of a laptop, although I am a Custom PC Builder, laptops i generally have no concern for. Take a look at this picture, I took one back panel off to reveal some of the components: I believe the Wireless Card is where I marked the arrow pointing too. That little white square thing appears to be a sticker of the Wifi card, it says WLAN. How can I access it to swap it with my Atheros one. Do I need to remove all the outermost screws? There are screws located to the right of where I scribbled in Yellow and next to the HDD, do I just remove those? I dont want to destroy the machine, only just got it today. Appreciate some help thanks.

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  • How do I repair my Logitech Anywhere MX?

    - by Stefano Palazzo
    My Anywhere Mouse has got mushy mouse button syndrome. That is, the left mouse button feels a little bit soft, and it easily double clicks, let's go when I drag something. Before I repair it at home, rather than bringing it to the store (I kind of need it, it's the only one I have), I'd like to know exactly what I'm doing. It'd be too bad if I tried to repair it, voided the warranty and didn't succeed. I'm guessing there are screws to open it under the rubber pads. And I suppose I can take those off without breaking them, and put them back on without bending them. How is this mouse held together, and what's the safest way to open it? Once I have it open, will I be able to fix the problem? What's causing the mushy mouse button? Here's what I know so far: It might be the switch itself that's broken, in which case I shouldn't open it (I can't get a replacement, voiding the warranty to "have a look" seems pointless) If there are screws underneath the rubber pads, they're only on the 'front', the back two thirds of the mouse are all battery cover: There's nothing I can see under the batteries either. In the mouse I had before this one, there were sort of springy things connecting the actual button with the switch soldered to the board. They were just lying inside of a bit of plastic, and I could swap the left and right ones easily. If repairing it is more difficult, transferring the problem to the right mouse button would be a very good start.

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