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  • 3 wire computer fan won't run continuously

    - by Ben
    I had an old computer that didn't work anymore, so I took the CPU fan out to see what I could make with it. The fan is NMB model number BG0903-B044-VTL, like this. It has three wires coming off of it, red, black, and white. I know that the white wire is usually a speed sensor. Does this wire need to be connected to something in order for the fan to run continuously? Right now when I apply power to the red and black wires (from a 9-volt battery) the fan will spin very briefly, and then slow down until it stops. The fan's motor only spins in the instant that the power is turned on, but doesn't continue, even though the power is still applied. How can I get the fan to spin continuously?

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  • How to split audio into multiple channels from optical S/PDIF or 1/8"?

    - by Josh M.
    I have a motherboard which has an optical S/PDIF output or 1/8". I'd like to "split" that signal into the appropriate channels so that I can then connect that to the wires behind my car's headunit which, in turn, run to the amp. The factory Bose amp just takes a single connector with a million wires running out of it, so that's why I would need to separate the signal into separate channels. On the other end there are four RCA connectors: front left, front right, rear left, rear right. The sub-woofer signal does not require an additional connection. Edit: Revised to include S/PDIF or 1/8".

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  • Ten Classic Electronic Toys and Their Modern Equivalents

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    Whether you’re looking to relive the toy exploits of your youth or pass your love of tinkering and electronics onto the younger generation, this list highlights ten great electronic toys of yesteryear and their modern equivalents. Courtesy of Wired’s Geek Dad, the description for the all-in-one electronics kit seen here: What is was: Arthur C. Clarke has said that any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic. As a kid in the midst of an increasing technological revolution, electronics were at the heart of that. Learning electronics was made easy through the Science Fair Electronic Project Kits found at Radioshack. Through the project guides, kids could construct various ‘experiments’ by attaching wires to terminal springs that make circuits. The terminal springs would wire in components such as LED segment lights, photo sensors, resistors, diodes, etc. While it was fun getting the projects to work, the manuals lacked in depth explanation as to what was happening in the circuit to produce the project’s result. Why it was awesome: First, it was a simple buy for parents. Everything you needed to get your child interested in electronics was right in the kit. You didn’t need to breadboard or solder. I remember a distinct feeling of accomplishment making a high-water alarm or a light-sensor game with the realization that the bundles of wires springing up from the kit were actually doing something! Modern equivalent: You can still pick up variations of the 100-in-1 kits, but their popular replacement seem to be Snap Circuits by Elenco. All of the components are mounted on a plastic base with a contact on either end which interconnect with each other and the plastic base that projects can be mounted to. Each component also has the electrical diagram symbol for that component drawn on it so it can help you read schematics. For that reason alone, I like these better. HTG Explains: Why You Only Have to Wipe a Disk Once to Erase It HTG Explains: Learn How Websites Are Tracking You Online Here’s How to Download Windows 8 Release Preview Right Now

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  • How to write to the OpenGL Depth Buffer

    - by Mikepote
    I'm trying to implement an old-school technique where a rendered background image AND preset depth information is used to occlude other objects in the scene. So for instance if you have a picture of a room with some wires hanging from the ceiling in the foreground, these are given a shallow depth value in the depthmap, and when rendered correctly, allows the character to walk "behind" the wires but in front of other objects in the room. So far I've tried creating a depth texture using: glTexImage2D(GL_TEXTURE_2D, 0, GL_DEPTH_COMPONENT, Image.GetWidth(), Image.GetHeight(), 0, GL_DEPTH_COMPONENT, GL_UNSIGNED_BYTE, pixels); Then just binding it to a quad and rendering that over the screen, but it doesnt write the depth values from the texture. I've also tried: glDrawPixels(Image.GetWidth(), Image.GetHeight(), GL_DEPTH_COMPONENT, GL_UNSIGNED_BYTE, pixels); But this slows down my framerate to about 0.25 fps... I know that you can do this in a pixelshader by setting the gl_fragDepth to a value from the texture, but I wanted to know if I could achieve this with non-pixelshader enabled hardware?

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  • Linux on 8-bit

    - by nospam(at)example.com (Joerg Moellenkamp)
    This is nothing short of extremly cool from a technical perspective. The author has done it by writing an ARM emulator for an AVR controller and running Linux with this emulation : Linux on an 8-bit micro?.This is definitely not the fastest, but I think it may be the cheapest, slowest, simplest to hand assemble, lowest part count, and lowest-end Linux PC. The board is hand-soldered using wires, there is not even a requirement for a printed circuit board

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  • Replacing stock Core 2 Duo heatsink fan (just the fan really) with a Dell CPU fan

    - by user647345
    My old heatsink fan broke and I'm trying to reconnect its plugs to a new fan. My Dell CPU fan has some custom Dell plug. I snipped the old fan's wire in half and kept the plug on the end of it. I want to connect it to the Dell fan wire to the plug. The motherboard is a P5Q-e, the stock Core 2 Duo fan was .20A and the dell is .70A. Is that going to matter? The wire from the fan has four wires, the wire with the plug has four wires. They share three, of the four colors: red, black, and blue. Dell's fourth wire is white, while the plug's fourth wire is yellow. Is it safe to assume that I just connect the yellow and the white plug together and match the rest up? I don't want to take any risk of damaging anything. It runs fine passively without a fan, but I have speedstep on, so I would like to use this fan and just fasten it to the heatsink with some twist ties and paperclips and call it a day.

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  • Ethernet/8P8C crimp contacts bent

    - by Fire Lancer
    (if anyone knows correct terminology please correct). Ive got a (fairly large) number of existing Ethernet cables that over the years many have got damaged connector clips, so got a crimp tool and some new connectors for them. However out of all 4 attempts I have tried, on crimping 2+ of the little copper contacts that bite into the wires have instead just bent to one side, and so gone between the gaps in in the crimp tool... Unless this really is me doing something wrong (what?) I am inclined to blame the hardware, but is this the crimper or the new connectors I got? I tried to take a picture, as you can just about see looking from the left 3rd, 6th, 7th and 8th pins didn't get pushed in, and so don't form a connector. Unfortunately my camera was barely able to focus on it and then this website converted it to a JPEG... Update: Connectors/Cable/Tools: The wires are stranded (looks about 6 and no evidence of being aluminum/not copper), and the pins(?) have 2 little flat spikes lengthways along the cables (I understand to dig into it, while solid core connectors would have like 2 plates designed to go around the core?). Crimper was http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0013EXTKK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (seemed to be highly rated, I already had tools for cutting/stripping). Update2: Picture of crimp "prongs" (?) Update3: Side picture of connector Update4: Comparison with old connector. The top (used) connector is one from a few years back (different tool and connectors), the thing that concerns me that it might not be the tool I need to replace is just how thin the pins are on the new one that maybe a tool could legitimately bend some into a gap rather than pushing them in fully? In fact I can move individual pins to the sides significantly with my fingernail, is that normal?

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  • Some Power Supply Cable Questions?

    - by jasondavis
    I am building a new PC and I haven't done this in a few years. It will have all the latest tech stuff. I got my PSU in the mail and I am looking over the cables (it has a lot) I thought it was a mudular PSU so I could only use the cables I need but instead it is a hybrid (some wires attached and some can be added/removed instead of all of then being removable). 1) So I am curious, I believe all my hard drives and optical drives are powered off of a sata power cable so does that mean I probably do not need any of the 4 pin molex cables? Or are these used for other things? 2) I know the 24-pin cable goes to my motherboard. 3) I have some 6-pin cables that are labeled pci-e which is new to me. I read these are for some grapghic cards and stuff. I have 2 grapghic cards but they do not require a seperate pci-e power wire be hooked to them. So are these pci-e wires just to power pci-express cards? Or for other things as well? 4) I have a 4pin ATX 12v wire, what is this for? 5) 8 pin EPS, what is this for?

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  • RPi and Java Embedded GPIO: Writing Java code to blink LED

    - by hinkmond
    So, you've followed the previous steps to install Java Embedded on your Raspberry Pi ?, you went to Fry's and picked up some jumper wires, LEDs, and resistors ?, you hooked up the wires, LED, and resistor the the correct pins ?, and now you want to start programming in Java on your RPi? Yes? ???????! OK, then... Here we go. You can use the following source code to blink your first LED on your RPi using Java. In the code you can see that I'm not using any complicated gpio libraries like wiringpi or pi4j, and I'm not doing any low-level pin manipulation like you can in C. And, I'm not using python (hell no!). This is Java programming, so we keep it simple (and more readable) than those other programming languages. See: Write Java code to do this In the Java code, I'm opening up the RPi Debian Wheezy well-defined file handles to control the GPIO ports. First I'm resetting everything using the unexport/export file handles. (On the RPi, if you open the well-defined file handles and write certain ASCII text to them, you can drive your GPIO to perform certain operations. See this GPIO reference). Next, I write a "1" then "0" to the value file handle of the GPIO0 port (see the previous pinout diagram). That makes the LED blink. Then, I loop to infinity. Easy, huh? import java.io.* /* * Java Embedded Raspberry Pi GPIO app */ package jerpigpio; import java.io.FileWriter; /** * * @author hinkmond */ public class JerpiGPIO { static final String GPIO_OUT = "out"; static final String GPIO_ON = "1"; static final String GPIO_OFF = "0"; static final String GPIO_CH00="0"; /** * @param args the command line arguments */ public static void main(String[] args) { FileWriter commandFile; try { /*** Init GPIO port for output ***/ // Open file handles to GPIO port unexport and export controls FileWriter unexportFile = new FileWriter("/sys/class/gpio/unexport"); FileWriter exportFile = new FileWriter("/sys/class/gpio/export"); // Reset the port unexportFile.write(GPIO_CH00); unexportFile.flush(); // Set the port for use exportFile.write(GPIO_CH00); exportFile.flush(); // Open file handle to port input/output control FileWriter directionFile = new FileWriter("/sys/class/gpio/gpio"+GPIO_CH00+"/direction"); // Set port for output directionFile.write(GPIO_OUT); directionFile.flush(); /*--- Send commands to GPIO port ---*/ // Opne file handle to issue commands to GPIO port commandFile = new FileWriter("/sys/class/gpio/gpio"+GPIO_CH00+"/value"); // Loop forever while (true) { // Set GPIO port ON commandFile.write(GPIO_ON); commandFile.flush(); // Wait for a while java.lang.Thread.sleep(200); // Set GPIO port OFF commandFile.write(GPIO_OFF); commandFile.flush(); // Wait for a while java.lang.Thread.sleep(200); } } catch (Exception exception) { exception.printStackTrace(); } } } Hinkmond

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  • Show/hide text based on optgroup selection using Jquery

    - by general exception
    I have the following HTML markup:- <select name="Fault" class="textbox" id="fault"> <option>Single Light Out</option> <option>Light Dim</option> <option>Light On In Daytime</option> <option>Erratic Operating Times</option> <option>Flashing/Flickering</option> <option>Causing Tv/Radio Interference</option> <option>Obscured By Hedge/Tree Branches</option> <option>Bracket Arm Needs Realigning</option> <option>Shade/Cover Missing</option> <option>Column In Poor Condition</option> <option>Several Lights Out (please state how many)</option> <option>Column Leaning</option> <option>Door Missing/Wires Exposed</option> <option>Column Knocked Down/Traffic Accident</option> <option>Lantern Or Bracket Broken Off/Hanging On Wires</option> <option>Shade/Cover Hanging Open</option> </select> <span id="faulttext" style="color:Red; display:none">Text in the span</span> This Jquery snippet adds the last 5 options into an option group. $('#fault option:nth-child(n+12)').wrapAll('<optgroup label="Urgent Reasons">'); What I want to do is, remove the display:none if any of the items within the <optgroup> are selected, effectively displaying the span message, possibly with a fade in transition, and also hide the message if any options outside of the <optgroup> are selected.

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  • Motherboard Wiring

    - by JT
    HI All, I bought a new case to put a motherboard in. Everything fits, I have done this before, but not in a long time! The case has wires for - Power SW - Reset SW - Power LED - HDD LED On the motherboard (ASUS M2NPV-VM) it is clearly labeled where these go, but I cannot remember where the black wire for each goes versus the colored wire? I don't want to put it backwards, wont I blow the motherboard?

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  • Laptop LCD sometimes stops working on reboot. Please help.

    - by J Ringle
    I have a Gateway P-6831FX Laptop with Vista Ultimate. The Laptop LCD will sometimes not come on after I reboot the computer. I don't even close the lid and it happens. It isn't dim, it doesn't come on at all. No posting of CMOS (BIOS), nothing. Please note... this happens sometimes, not every time. Frustrating! When plugged into an external monitor, which works fine, Vista display properties can't even "sense" the laptop LCD. I try to enable the laptop LCD for dual display, turning on the laptop LCD, and it does nothing. It's like the laptop LCD is not even there. Manually taking a magnet in my hand to the laptop lid sensing switch (the sensor that turns off display/sleep mode when you close lid), sometimes causes the LCD backlight to "turn on" but not display any images. By "turn on" I mean I can see the screen backlight turn on to a 'dark gray' screen instead of pitch black. Subsequent reboot the laptop display is not working again! Here are the facts: Only happens at random and only after a reboot. Waking from Sleep mode isn't a problem. Pressing F4 function key for dual display does nothing when this happens. Closing lid doesn't seem to be related. (unless it is only after reboot.) using external magnet from laptop screen sensor sometimes triggers backlight to turn on but reboot back to square one with no LCD display. an external display always works fine. I have taken apart LCD, checked all wires and ribbons for loose connections or damage. I have replaced the Inverter. It doesn't seem to be heat related as I can put in sleep mode and resume fine when very hot. (external monitor works fine too). Sometimes the screen works fine as if there is not a problem at all. Even after a reboot... This is random. Any ideas out there? If it is a bad part... which one? The LCD seems to be fine. What are the odds of 2 bad inverters? The backlight is fine. The LCD wires/ribbons seem to be fine. I am at a loss. No warranty left and Gateway tech support is clueless. Thanks for any feedback that might help.

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  • wire colors: color vs black vs white (positive vs negative voltage)

    - by David Oneill
    I'm working on building a computer (first time for me). There are several plugs that I need to connect to the motherboard (Power LED, reset switch, etc). Of the two wires, they are either: Color and white (reset switch, power LED, HDD LED) red and black (speaker, power switch) The manual for the motherboard has a nice diagram of where to plug them in, but has them labeled + or -. Which colors are positive, and which are negative?

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  • Hooking up my power switch/reset switch/LEDs

    - by David Oneill
    I'm working on building a computer (first time for me). There are several plugs that I need to connect to the motherboard (Power LED, reset switch, etc). Of the two wires, they are either: Color and white (reset switch, power LED, HDD LED) red and black (speaker, power switch) The manual for the motherboard has a nice diagram of where to plug them in, but has them labeled + or -. Which colors are positive, and which are negative?

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  • CRC error when extracting to SSD from 2nd HDD

    - by gbn
    Hello I have a large RAR file (split up) containing an ISO on my 2nd HDD When I extract it: to the same HDD, it's OK to the system/OS SSD, I get CRC errors I've checked memory, run memtests, checked wires etc I have no other issues; only with this one RAR file Any ideas please?

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  • HP Pavillion dv5 Notebook Repair Question?

    - by HeLp
    My screen only comes on when my screen is half way up and it sometime turns off or turns white I think I need to connect a loose wire from the screen but how do I open the laptop to reconnect the screens loose wires? I have an infinity screen with no screws on it please help

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  • Test a microphone with an intermittent fault

    - by Mick
    I have a microphone with all the software set up correctly, but there is a loose connection somewhere. I'd like some software to give me instant feedback on whether the computer is picking up the sound of my voice so that I can wiggle some wires and work out where the fault is. Any suggestions?

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  • How do I use with LTSP with a Dell FX170 thin client?

    - by v4169sgr
    Just got a reconditioned DELL Optiplex FX170 thin client delivered, without an image. On power-up, I see the message: DISK BOOT FAILURE, INSERT SYSTEM DISK AND PRESS ENTER I am very sure all the wires etc are connected properly. I would like it to PXE boot and find my LTSP installation. I have an HP T5525 with the same connectivity that works fine. On F12 there's a BIOS boot order menu. The only options available though are LS120, the HDD, CD / DVD [via USB presumably], and various USB options. I do not see 'PXE' or any network card. And I don't know how to change the boot order :( Any help appreciated!

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  • Roll Your Own DIY Solar-Powered Security Camera Setup

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    If you’re looking to set up a security camera without running power or video lines, this solar-powered version combines a cheap Wi-Fi cam with a home-rolled solar setup to provide surveillance without wires. Courtesy of Reddit user CheapGuitar, the setup combines a dirt cheap off-brand Wi-Fi security camera, a Tupperware container spray painted black, some old camping solar panels, and a battery into a security camera that checks in as long as it’s in range of a Wi-Fi router or repeater. Hit up the link below to check out the build guide. Solar Powered Camera [via Hack A Day] HTG Explains: What Is Windows RT & What Does It Mean To Me? HTG Explains: How Windows 8′s Secure Boot Feature Works & What It Means for Linux Hack Your Kindle for Easy Font Customization

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  • RPi and Java Embedded GPIO: Sensor Hardware for Java Enabled Interface

    - by hinkmond
    Now here's the hardware you'll need to make a Java app interface with a static charge sensor connected to your Raspberry Pi via the GPIO port. It means another Fry's run of course. That's not too bad during Christmas since you can browse all the gadget and toys while doing your shopping for sensor hardware for your RPi. Here's a your shopping list: 1 - NTE312 JFET N-channel transistor (this is in place of the MPF-102) 1 - Set of Jumper Wires 1 - LED 1 - 300 ohm resistor 1 - set of header pins Grab all that from Fry's or your local hobby electronics shop and come back here for how to connect it together. Oh, and don't go too crazy buying all the other electronic toys and gadgets that catch your eye because of the holiday displays at the store. Hinkmond

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  • Information about SATA, IDE (PATA) controllers

    - by Adam Matan
    I have a remote computer on which I want to install a new hard drive for rsync backup. The problem is, I don't know what controller technology is used (PATA, SATA, SATA2, ...) and how many available slots are left. I want to spare me an unnecessary drive just for opening the chassis and looking into wires. How do I query the SATA or PATA controllers? I'm interested in the following points: Which controllers exist in the machine How many (and which) disks are attached to each controller How many available slots are there

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  • IKEA Lamps Hacked into Flexible Speaker Mounts

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    This simple hack combines the swing arms of two IKEA work lamps with a set of computer speakers for flexible and easily adjustable sound. IKEAHackers reader Bill Dwyer wanted an easy way to get the speakers off his desk but still be able to easily adjust them. By hacking apart two IKEA work lamps (he removed the light assembly and snipped the wires off) he was able to attach his computer speakers to the arms and, in the process, get them off the desk. The arms make it super simple to adjust the speakers exactly where he wants them, including towards other parts of his office/apartment. Hit up the link below to check out more pictures and read Bill’s instructions. Very Flexible Computer Speaker Mounts [IKEAHackers] Use Your Android Phone to Comparison Shop: 4 Scanner Apps Reviewed How to Run Android Apps on Your Desktop the Easy Way HTG Explains: Do You Really Need to Defrag Your PC?

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  • hp XW8000 work station power supply

    - by user281745
    My power supply went up in the XW8000 and I bought a new corsair cx500. I installed it but when I hook it up and I turn the computer on I get a beeping noise from the computer. I looked at the old power supply and the new power supply. The only difference is that the new power supply has 500 watts and the old one is 450 watts and the old PSU has a brown wire and the new power supply has 2 orange wires at the end. I found out that it is a sense wire that is in a different location so I was wondering how do I fix this problem.

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  • Information about SATA, IDE (PATA) controllers

    - by Adam Matan
    I have a remote computer on which I want to install a new hard drive for rsync backup. The problem is, I don't know what controller technology is used (PATA, SATA, SATA2, ...) and how many available slots are left. I want to spare me an unnecessary drive just for opening the chassis and looking into wires. How do I query the SATA or PATA controllers? I'm interested in the following points: Which controllers exist in the machine How many (and which) disks are attached to each controller How many available slots are there

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