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  • To Serve Man?

    - by Dave Convery
    Since the announcement of Windows 8 and its 'Metro' interface, the .NET community has wondered if the skills they've spent so long developing might be swept aside,in favour of HTML5 and JavaScript. Mercifully, that only seems to be true of SilverLight (as Simon Cooper points out), but it did leave me thinking how easy it is to impose a technology upon people without directly serving their needs. Case in point: QR codes. Once, probably, benign in purpose, they seem to have become a marketer's tool for determining when someone has engaged with an advert in the real world, with the same certainty as is possible online. Nobody really wants to use QR codes - it's far too much hassle. But advertisers want that data - they want to know that someone actually read their billboard / poster / cereal box, and so this flawed technology is suddenly everywhere, providing little to no value to the people who are actually meant to use it. What about 3D cinema? Profits from the film industry have been steadily increasing throughout the period that digital piracy and mass sharing has been possible, yet the industry cinema chains have forced 3D films upon a broadly uninterested audience, as a way of providing more purpose to going to a cinema, rather than watching it at home. Despite advances in digital projection, 3D cinema is scarcely more immersive to us than were William Castle's hoary old tricks of skeletons on wires and buzzing chairs were to our grandparents. iTunes - originally just a piece of software that catalogued and ripped music for you, but which is now multi-purpose bloatware; a massive, system-hogging behemoth. If it was being built for the people that used it, it would have been split into three or more separate pieces of software long ago. But as bloatware, it serves Apple primarily rather than us, stuffed with Music, Video, Various stores and phone / iPad management all bolted into one. Why? It's because, that way, you're more likely to bump into something you want to buy. You can't even buy a new laptop without finding that a significant chunk of your hard drive has been sold to 'select partners' - advertisers, suppliers of virus-busting software, and endless bloatware-flogging pop-ups that make using a new laptop without reformatting the hard drive like stepping back in time. The product you want is not the one you paid for. This is without even looking at services like Facebook and Klout, who provide a notional service with the intention of slurping up as much data about you as possible (in Klout's case, whether you create an account with them or not). What technologies do you find annoying or intrusive, and who benefits from keeping them around?

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  • RPi and Java Embedded GPIO: Sensor Connections for Java Enabled Interface

    - by hinkmond
    Now we're ready to connect the hardware needed to make a static electricity sensor for the Raspberry Pi and use Java code to access it through a GPIO port. First, very carefully bend the NTE312 (or MPF-102) transistor "gate" pin (see the diagram on the back of the package or refer to the pin diagram on the Web). You can see it in the inset photo on the bottom left corner. I bent the leftmost pin of the NTE312 transistor as I held the flat part toward me. That is going to be your antenna. So, connect one of the jumper wires to the bent pin. I used the dark green jumper wire (looks almost black; coiled at the bottom) in the photo. Then push the other 2 pins of the transistor into your breadboard. Connect one of the pins to Pin # 1 (3.3V) on the GPIO header of your RPi. See the diagram if you need to glance back at it. In the photo, that's the orange jumper wire. And connect the final unconnected transistor pin to Pin # 22 (GPIO25) on the RPi header. That's the blue jumper wire in my photo. For reference, connect the LED anode (long pin on a common anode LED/short pin on a common cathode LED, check your LED pin diagram) to the same breadboard hole that is connecting to Pin # 22 (same row of holes where the blue wire is connected), and connect the other pin of the LED to GROUND (row of holes that connect to the black wire in the photo). Test by blowing up a balloon, rubbing it on your hair (or your co-worker's hair, if you are hair-challenged) to statically charge it, and bringing it near your antenna (green wire in the photo). The LED should light up when it's near and go off when you pull it away. If you need more static charge, find a co-worker with really long hair, or rub the balloon on a piece of silk (which is just as good but not as fun). Next blog post is where we do some Java coding to access this sensor on your RPi. Finally, back to software! Ha! Hinkmond

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  • Oracle Service Cloud May 2014 Release – Focus on your driving by JP Saunders

    - by Tuula Fai
    The next time you’re twiddling dials on your car’s dashboard to get the air to blow in the right direction, and the right song to play on the stereo, while pulling on the wires to charge your phone and punching in passwords to re-sync your hands-free headset to take a call, consider this… Does having a better dashboard UI in your car improve your driving performance? The Tesla car has one of the most modern and intuitive dashboards in any commercial car today. It is actually based on the design of a smart phone, which can download apps and updates directly from the cloud.  The 17” touchscreen, Lynx-based dashboard totally integrates all channels and devices, allowing the driver to focus on the smooth driving and power of this luxury (toy) car.  What the folks at Tesla didn't do was avoid the complexity of our needs. Instead, they streamlined them. And, while we might not all be able to afford a Tesla, their approach demonstrates that a modern UI approach can ultimately make a positive difference in our lives and businesses.  This is why the productivity and effectiveness of a Modern Contact Center is many times greater than that of a traditional contact center. Agents in a Modern Contact Center get to focus on the task at hand, the customer engagement, rather than stumbling their way through Lego blocks of complexity.  The Oracle Service Cloud is a modern approach to customer service that empowers your agents to achieve greater focus on improving your operational and strategic success through streamlined business processes.  Here are some of the recent May 2014 release highlights to the Oracle Service Cloud: Performance Enhanced Desktop UI A modern agent desktop interface that optimizes clumsy tasks, logins, screens and workflows and is optimized for agent and system performance. Improvements include performance for drag-and-drop configurable views, saved searches, and improved caching for high-speed performance even during disconnected or slow internet access.  Customer Experience Routing A streamlined automatic way to connect the right customer need to the best agent skills, based on multidimensional variables such as product skills, language skills, workload, call volume to optimize the connection and resolution experience. On-The-Go Mobile Improvements to the Agent mobile app that extend connectivity to websites, and customer surveys that are mobile-ready and rendered for any device, and ensure the customer’s voice is captured while the insight is still top of mind.  Infused Social Engagement Enhancements to infused social capabilities allow agents to respond in social threads directly from within the agent desktop, with the information becoming part of the incident record for automatic actions (such as replay or escalate) triggered off the response. Front-End Siebel Contact Center The market leading online Web Customer Self-Service interface from the Oracle Service Cloud, is now out-of-the-box ready for Oracle Siebel customers. Deploy a new online web self-service interface in a matter of weeks to have customers self-serve and self-solve answers, with escalated incidents routed directly into the Oracle Siebel Contact Center. For more information on the latest enhancements for the Oracle Service Cloud, please see the Oracle Service Cloud May 2014 Capabilities and Benefits. Related blogs: Oracle Service Cloud Feb 2014

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  • Pay in the future should make you think in the present

    - by BuckWoody
    Distributed Computing - and more importantly “-as-a-Service” models of computing have a different cost model. This is something that sounds obvious on the surface but it’s often forgotten during the design and coding phase of a project. In on-premises computing, we’re used to purchasing a server and all of the hardware infrastructure and software licenses needed not only for one project, but several. This is an up-front or “sunk” cost that we consume by running code the organization needs to perform its function. Using a direct connection over wires you’ve already paid for, we don’t often have to think about bandwidth, hits on the data store or the amount of compute we use - we just know more is better. In a pay-as-you-go model, however, each of these architecture decisions has a potential cost impact. The amount of data you store, the number of times you access it, and the amount you send back all come with a charge. The offset is that you don’t buy anything at all up-front, so that sunk cost is freed up. And financial professionals know that money now is worth more than money later. Saving that up-front cost allows you to invest it in other things. It’s not just that you’re using things that now cost money - it’s that the design itself in distributed computing has a cost impact. That can be a really good thing, such as when you dynamically add capacity for paying customers. If you can tie back the cost of a series of clicks to what a user will pay to do so, you can set a profit margin that is easy to track. Here’s a case in point: Assume you are using a large instance in Windows Azure to compute some data that you retrieve from a SQL Azure database. If you don’t monitor the path of the application, you may not know what you are really using. Since you’re paying by the size of the instance, it’s best to maximize it all the time. Recently I evaluated just this situation, and found that downsizing the instance and adding another one where needed, adding a caching function to the application, moving part of the data into Windows Azure tables not only increased the speed of the application, but reduced the cost and more closely tied the cost to the profit. The key is this: from the very outset - the design - make sure you include metrics to measure for the cost/performance (sometimes these are the same) for your application. Windows Azure opens up awesome new ways of doing things, so make sure you study distributed systems architecture before you try and force in the application design you have on premises into your new application structure.

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  • Hyper-V Server 2012 - "No Active Network Adapter Found"

    - by Vazgen
    I just installed Hyper-V Server 2012 and first thing I get when logging in to the host is "No Active Network Adapter Found". I know I have to use the following command: pnputil –i –a <inf file> I found the Realtek Network Driver for my MB for Windows 7 here: http://za.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_AM3Plus/M5A97_PRO/#download But there is not one for Windows 8 so I tried using the Win 7 one with PnPUtil, and I got: Failed to install the driver on any of the devices on the system: No more data is available. Does this really mean I can't use Hyper-V Server 2012 with my motherboard? This is hard to believe because I installed Windows Server 2012 directly (prior to installing Hyper-V Server 2012) on this same computer and I had internet access on that server without even configuring any drivers. Ok so I went to PowerShell from cmd and typed Get-NetIPConfiguration And it said the name of my driver (Realtek) and "Disconnected". I switched the Ethernet wire from my primary computer with my server and everything was fixed. Interestingly, my primary computer connects to the internet just fine with the wire that was previously in the server, just with much slower speed. Does anyone know what could be the difference between these 2 Ethernet wires?

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  • Why is my cat5e cable not okay?

    - by torbengb
    My LAN cable seems to work (indicator LED lights up) but the computer can't find a connection. What's wrong? Setup: I had to run a network cable from a router in one room to a computer to another room, through a hole in the wall that was too small to pass the RJ-45 plug through. The plug was cut off and the cable passed through the wall. Then a new plug was crimped on using this detailed explanation. The connection didn't work because the (factory-made!) plug in the other end used a non-standard wire order. I crimped a new plug on again, using the exact same order of the factory-made plug. The LED indicator lights up on both ends, but the computer cannot find a connection. What can be wrong? How can I find out? I don't have a cable tester. By visually inspecting my new plug, I think it's good; the wire order matches the other end, and all wires are all the way inside the plug and reach the connector piece. I've used the cable before (with both factory-made ends) so i don't think that the cable itself has a defect.

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  • Network corruption - corrupt downloads, corrupt streams, etc.

    - by rfrankel
    I've been having some problems with my home LAN. Downloaded executables won't run, my remote desktop sessions keep getting interrupted due to encryption errors, flash video streams show visible corruption (both Hulu and YouTube), and I've had a couple downloads for which the md5 hashes don't match. The problem has even occurred with a couple images embedded in webpages, though that's rare enough (presumably because images are relatively smaller files). I've had this problem across two Windows machines and a Mac, so it's neither machine-specific nor at the app or OS level. Comcast claims it's nothing to do with them, and my Linksys/Cisco RV016 router is out of warranty, so I have no access to official support. When I log into my router, it shows no error packets or dropped packets received. I plugged a laptop directly into the router and was able to download a 5.5 MB file and verify its MD5 hash, which is not proof that the problem is downstream of the router, but makes it seem quite likely, since I failed to download the same file several times from two desktops (one Mac, one Windows). Could this be a wiring problem? If so, is there any way clever/elegant to determine which wiring is faulty with just software? If I can avoid tracing all the wires throughout my entire house it would make my life quite a bit easier.

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  • Computer does not switch on after power outage

    - by cristian
    VOLTAGE DROP OFF FOR PC does not restart The other day my pc was turned off due to power outage. Since that time the computer would not turn on again, no sign of life, it seems dead. I did several tests, changed the power outlet and disconnect the wires ... also I have reseated the cards ... but the result is that nothing changes. What can I do? Could there may be damage to the hardware due to the power outage? Note: the voltage drop is not due to a lightning storm and so is not due to damaged components (burnt card etc ...) Original Text: l'altro giorno il pc mi si è spento improvvisamente per calo tensione.... da quel momento non si è piu' riacceso...nessun segnale di vita...sembra proprio morto. Ho fatto diverse prove, cambio presa di alimentazione, scollegare i fili...insomma ho "mischiato le carte"...ma il risultato è che non cambia nulla. Cosa posso fare? cosa puo' essere successo? Possono esserci danni hardware per il calo di tensione? NB: il calo di tensione non e' dovuto ad una saetta e quindi escluderei danni causa temporale (bruciature scheda ecc...) Grazie mille

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  • Using pre-made patch cables on a punch down block?

    - by Trevor Harrison
    I need to add a 24 port switch to my wiring closet. In the (distant) past, I usually just punched each port of the switch to a 110 block on the wall (using hand-made cables), and cross connect between that and the 110 block that has the runs to each workstation. To save time, I'm thinking of buying 12 pre-made drop cables, cutting them in half (so 24 single ended cables), and punching those to my 110 block. The things I'm worried about are wire type (ie. solid vs. strands) and color scheme. I really don't know if they use different wire types (still?), but I remember that being an issue at one point. Can anyone comment on this? (I definitely won't feel comfortable trying to punch stranded wiring on my 110 block) Also, picking up a random pre-built cable I had laying around, I noticed that the color scheme used didn't appear to be T568B, but T568A, which would clash with the rest of my wall. Anyone know of an online source that specifies these things? I've looked at www.cablesforless.com (which does have nicer prices) and www.cablestogo.com (which seem stupid expensive) so far. Cables For Less doesn't specify wiring scheme, Cables To Go does specify T568B. Both seem to specify stranded wires instead of solid.

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  • How to wire 20 computers and 20 phones and 1 server into LAN?

    - by John Smith
    I have currently 3 switches Two Netgear JFS524 with 24 slots, One Belkin with 16 slots. Server DSL Internet Router. Main question is how to connect switches together, two Netgear's are next to each other, yet one is about 100 feet away and holds about 5 computer and 5 phones. If i connect them with only 1 wire will that limit bandwidth? e.g. all 23 computers will be limited to speed of one CAT5e cable? If i connect switches with 2 cables will this give speed boost? What's the ideal scenario should i just move the third switch next to other two? Will the speed of computer connected to white switch be same as computer connected to top switch? Will moving white switch right next top switch and having 16 wires comming 100 feet instead of 1 wire comming 100 feet make it faster? EDIT 1: I actually have NETGEAR ProSafe GS105 Gigabit switch its only has 4 ports in it though, you think i can have use of it in current setup? Like connect all 3 switches and server into it and keep internet router and phone server on one of the slower switches EDIT 2: Everyone mention gigabit switches, but will they do any difference with 10/100 network cards? I then have to use gigabit cards in every computer too? I could in server perhaps, but users will be 10/100

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  • Domain authentication over OPEN wireless pre-logon (Windows 7 Pro) - No logon servers avail

    - by Shadow00Caster
    I have a plethora of laptops that are joined to an AD domain. I have an enterprise wireless system setup, the users of these laptops will be using an OPEN unsecured SSID which will ultimately have a captive portal that uses Radius-AD auth and firewall rules to allow access pre-captive portal auth to the proper ip's/ports of DC's etc for auth etc. I already have other laptops/users connecting to another SSID with 802.11x and SSO, all works perfectly pre-logon etc. My problem is with this open network, for some reason I cannot get the machines to auth to AD. The laptops connect to the wireless network, I confirm this on the controller and can ping the laptop at startup. I sharked the wires on the 2 DC's that these machines auth to, I can see a DNS SOA update from a laptop im testing with and can ping that test laptop from both DC's. When I try to logon, "There are currently no logon servers available to service the logon request." The shark shows no incoming connections to either DC even though the laptop is connected and pingable. Any help is greatly appreciated.

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  • Are HDMI to VGA Adapters Really Device-Specific?

    - by allquixotic
    There are a lot of devices on the market right now (especially mobile devices) with a Micro-HDMI or Mini-HDMI port and no VGA or D-Sub output. Most manufacturers of said devices sell a cable that looks something like this: I have yet to find a cable like this that claims to work on a wide array of devices. In general, these cables claim to work with one specific device only. The way these cables work, I think, is that analog VGA signals are sent from the HDMI port on the device. This should work for devices that have special hardware on the motherboard/GPU capable of driving this. Is it the case that these cables have to be custom designed for each device? Or, is it rather that any device which possesses this special "signaling of analog VGA over the HDMI port" can be made to work with a cable that is physically compatible (i.e. the HDMI end plugs into the device and the VGA end accepts a VGA monitor cable)? Note that I am not looking for a product recommendation, just a conceptual clarification on what exactly these devices are doing. Also, a few remarks: The cables like the one depicted here are not digital to analog converters. I know about these: they are expensive, and they are the ONLY solution if your device only outputs a digital signal and is incapable of driving analog VGA over the HDMI port. The cables like the one depicted here are not straight crossover cables from VGA to HDMI, either. The crossover cables are designed to send a digital HDMI signal over the VGA port's wires; that is, the wire protocol is HDMI (digital) but the physical pinout is the same as VGA, even though nothing analog is happening. Once again, this is not the behavior that, I believe, the devices which I'm talking about in this question are doing. The cabling and devices that this question is about transmit the analog VGA data over the HDMI port (the HDMI port is in the device outputting the data, and the VGA side is the monitor/projector).

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  • Setup for a live (low-latency) audio video broadcast over Wi-Fi?

    - by Majal Mirasol
    The Upgrade We are capturing audio (from mixer) and video (from a camera) from a main auditorium and passing it to separate rooms within the building. We used to have done this via manual audio/video cables and wires. We wanted to "upgrade" the system and wirelessly broadcast the stream via Wi-Fi. The Problem In our current setup (Wirecast running on A10 on a Wireless-N network), we have the problem of delay. Our streams are delayed from a minute up to five minutes on the clients (laptop/iPad/Android). This had not been a problem from the previous wired connections. Since the wireless network is local, we thought that a delay of less than a second should be achievable. Our Question And so it goes. Anybody there who has any experience for a setup that has both low latency and at the same time user-friendly to clients streaming in the program? Any recommendations would be highly appreciated. (Our current setup in on Windows 7, but setup on a dedicated Linux box is preferred, if achievable.)

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  • Windows XP can use a wired network port, but MacBook (OS X) fails on the same port

    - by Dean Hill
    I wired the Cat5 in my house seven years ago. The wired ports have worked fine with both my Windows XP laptop and MacBook. My wireless network also works fine, but I like to use wired occasionally. One of the Cat5 runs wasn't terminated with a jack, so I recently terminated this wire with a port/jack on the wall end and a standard Cat5 plug on the end that plugs into my router. This is the same setup as my other runs. Unfortunately, the MacBook isn't working well with the new wired port. The OS X Network System Preferences show the IP, Subnet, Router, etc., and everything looks fine. A "netstat -ibd" shows no errors or dropped packets. However, when I open a page in Safari, the status says "Contacting 'www.google.com'" and appears to hang. If I wait for a couple minutes, part of the Google page starts to display, but it is still not the full page load. When I use a Windows XP laptop on the same wired port, everything works fine. An internet speed test shows good results and all web pages load fine. A "netstat -e" under Windows shows no errors. I've used a Cat5 tester, and the cable tests fine (wires 1-8 light up in sequence). I've replaced both the port/jack and the connector twice to make sure I wired things correctly. I'd really like this Cat5 to work with the MacBook (and I'm trying to avoid running a new length of cable). Any ideas what the problem could be?

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  • Convert a cassette tape recording to digital format

    - by Electric Automation
    Has anyone been successful with transferring audio cassette tape recordings to a digital format? I would like to preserve old cassette tape recordings of my grandparents to some digital format: MP3, WAV, etc... The quality of the tapes are mediocre. I think I can handle the quality restoration but getting the audio from tape to digital is my question. Below is a list of the hardware that I can work with: Cassette Deck: I have a Technics stereo cassette deck model RS-B12. It has separate left and right IN and OUT RCA type jacks on the back. In the front it has a headphone phono jack, plus left and right mic input phono jacks. On the computer side: -I have a Windows Vista PC with no additional software other than what came with the machine from Costco. No sound editing software that I can see. There is no sound card on the PC. On the front panel there is a mini-phono mic input jack and there are several different types of in/out mini-phono jacks on the back. In addition, USB and Firewire. I also have access to a new (2009) iMac with a mini-phono input jack for a powered mic or other audio source and GarageBand that has come with the computer. In addition, USB and Firewire. What are my options for getting these cassette recordings into a digital format? Whats the best format? What sort of wires would I need and will I want to utilize the USB or Firewire or can I simply use the audio inputs on the PC (or Mac) to receive the audio stream?

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  • Convert a cassette tape recording to digital format

    - by Optimal Solutions
    Has anyone been successful with transferring audio cassette tape recordings to a digital format? I would like to preserve old cassette tape recordings of my grandparents to some digital format: MP3, WAV, etc... The quality of the tapes are mediocre. I think I can handle the quality restoration but getting the audio from tape to digital is my question. Below is a list of the hardware that I can work with: Cassette Deck: I have a Technics stereo cassette deck model RS-B12. It has separate left and right IN and OUT RCA type jacks on the back. In the front it has a headphone phono jack, plus left and right mic input phono jacks. On the computer side: -I have a Windows Vista PC with no additional software other than what came with the machine from Costco. No sound editing software that I can see. There is no sound card on the PC. On the front panel there is a mini-phono mic input jack and there are several different types of in/out mini-phono jacks on the back. In addition, USB and Firewire. I also have access to a new (2009) iMac with a mini-phono input jack for a powered mic or other audio source and GarageBand that has come with the computer. In addition, USB and Firewire. What are my options for getting these cassette recordings into a digital format? Whats the best format? What sort of wires would I need and will I want to utilize the USB or Firewire or can I simply use the audio inputs on the PC (or Mac) to receive the audio stream?

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  • My New Dell Workstation T-7500 gives electric shock

    - by Dan
    Just bought Dell T-7500 Workstation. When installation technician came to Install the workstation, he got an electric shock when he touched the Start Button. He also got shock when he touched Front Panel. No shock when touching rest of the Chassis. He called Dell Support & tried to troubleshoot by taking out various wires etc but did not help. I touched the same places & I also got shock. We checked everything possible including connecting to various outlets but it didn't solve the problem. Installation subcontractor said that they are not supposed to troubleshoot anything on new system, just install it & they made notes & left. I called my sales guy & it was weekend so he said he will take care of it on Monday. Here are my concerns : (1) Why does that happen ? Although it is a mild shock & it won't kill you but might damage other parts of workstation ? (2) Is this common for workstations ? (3) What should I do ? Of course Dell will try to troubleshoot again but should I let them do that OR ask for a New System ? (4) Wheat would happen if I continue using it till the new system arrives ? Thank You.

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  • Possible DNS Injection and/or SSL hijack?

    - by Anthony
    So if I go to my site without indicating the protocol, I'm taken to: http://example.org/test.php But if I go directly to: https://example.org/test.php I get a 404 back. If I go to just: https://example.org I get a totally different site (a page about martial arts). I went to the site via https not very long ago (maybe a week?) and it was fine. This is a shared server, as I understand it, and I do not have shell access, so I'm limited to the site's CPanel to do any further investigations. But when I go to: example.org:2083 I'm taken to https://example.org:2083, which, if someone has taken over the SSL port, could mean they have taken over the 2083 part as well (at least in my paranoid mind). I'm made more nervous by the fact that the cpanel login page at the above address looks very new (better, really) compared to the last time I went to it over the weekend. It's possible that wires got crossed somewhere after a system update, but I don't want to put in my name username and password in case it's a phishing attempt. Is there any way to know for sure without shell access to know for sure if someone has taken over? If I look up the IP address for the host name, the IP address matches what I have on a phpinfo page I can get to over http. If I go to the IP address directly on port 2083, I get the same login mentioned above (new and and suspiciously nice). But the SSL cert shows as good when I go this route. So if that's the case (I know the IP is right, the cert checks out, and there isn't any DNS involved), is that enough to feel safe at that point of entry? Finally, if I can safely log in via the IP, does anyone have any advice on where to check first on CPanel for why the SSL port is forwarding to a site on karate? Thanks.

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  • Router block some sites

    - by Mahesha999
    Hi I was using ADSL Modem/Router earlier. The device is quite old Pronet PN-ADSL 101 E/U model (pics: http://bit.ly/P2YaWy, http://bit.ly/OA700l) Since it had only one RJ45 out, I bought new Wireless Router TPLink TL-WR941ND. It has 4 RJ45 out and 3 wireless antennas. I configured my old router in bridge. Now, if I have to connect my pc to Internet through the old router, I have to enter username and password. Then I connected the RJ45 output of old router to the WAN in of new router. and ran the CD of new router. It configured the new router in PPPoE by saving the username and password in router to dial automatically. So now I have to just plug in the wires in my new routers any RJ45 out. I am able to access the Internet when I connect through new router (both wired and wirelessly), but some sites are getting blocked. Most notably yahoo.com (though ymail.com is working), Microsoft.com. msn.com. These sites work perfectly fine when I connect my pc directly to my old router and enter username and password manually. (However others like google.com. facebook.com works fine when connect through new router) So here these some sites need some parameter set but I am unable to find them out. Can anyone help me. My friend said he also faced same problem. Surprisingly he advised me to see if the same websites will work through Opera turbo mode and boom they worked. So what could be the problem?

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  • Strange battery behavior on laptop

    - by EpsilonVector
    My laptop is behaving rather strangely lately, and I was hoping to get some idea as to what may be causing such symptoms. The problem: When charging, very minute or so it loses connectivity with the AC adapter for a split second, and regains it back immediately. When this happens the little light that indicates the computer is plugged in does flicker off and back on, but I checked the adapter by replacing the battery on my laptop, and this indeed solves the problem, so it is probably the battery which is at fault, not the adapter (I also tried to move the adapter's wire around just to make sure it had nothing to do with torn wires). I suppose that the obvious solution is to get a new battery, but as far as battery defects go- this is a rather strange one; it loses connection with the adapter, but still powers the computer, and changing the power setting to a balanced plan (was maximum performance) seem to have solved the problem too. Is there a chance this is not simply the battery, but some kind of other electronic defect? And if not, what can cause it to behave so strangely? PS I tried to recalibrate it- didn't help.

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  • How to test/debug bad network wiring?

    - by Jack Lloyd
    I recently bought a place already wired with Cat 5E (8 ports, leading to a central closet). However attempting to get link, nothing works. On closer examination, it was obvious that the ends in the closet were wired backwards (brown on pin 1, etc). The jacks that I've pulled out of the wall do look to be correctly done. However, testing with a network cable tester shows zero link between any of the jacks and any of the ports in the closet - I had expected to just see a 1/8, 2/7, ... 8/1 mismatch, but instead get nothing at all. The runs are accessible and look neat, though they take some bends that seem quite sharp and are in some cases much longer than they need to be (the person who put this in was a professional electrician but I suspect this was the first time he ran network cabling). My best guess at this point is that he either bought bad cable, or put so much tension on it that he snapped wires. Though it seems surprising/unlikely that I wouldn't get at least one active wire on one of the 8 lines. So, my question: is there anything else I should try or test before I go ripping out everything and running new cable?

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  • Find whether TV supports S Video

    - by Vik
    Hello Freinds I have a TV (some unknown model) which has 3 sockets to insert 3 wires red, yellow and white. A DVD Player can be connected to the TV using sockets and the TV displays that the TV is in AV mode when DVD is running. Now i have a Desktop which has a S Video Port and i have a wire to connect the S Video port from my computer to those red, yellow and white sockets using appropriate pins. Now i have searched all over the remote and it does not switches to S Video Mode, it has only 2 modes of operation i.e. 1 Cable Connection (Third Party DTH Receiver receives channels and i pay subscription) and 2 AV Mode. It does not have S Video Mode or any other mode. Now my question is whether i can connect the S Video cable from my desktop to the above described TV or i should look for a new TV if i wish to connect the S Video from Computer to TV or there is any sort of converter that can help? I did tried connecting the S Video cable from Desktop to TV, but it did'nt worked. TV kept on displaying Blue Screen of AV Mode. Regards

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  • Replacing the LCD panel in a netbook (Asus Eee PC 1005)

    - by neilfein
    Yesterday, I was cleaning up and dropped my Asus Eee 1005PE. The screen is cracked inside (i.e., cracks are visible only when on), and no longer works properly. I booted up with another monitor attached, and the computer itself is fine, but needs a new screen. Best Buy wants at least $250 to repair it (that includes their $150 fee to breathe in the same room as the unit), and Asus was of no help at all. (They're incredibly cagey and won't provide any money numbers at all, not even the cost of the part.) If replacing the LCD is no more trouble than replacing memory or a hard drive, I can do that. It's within my means to buy the part (18G241010402, a TFT LCD), but I'd like to know more about the procedure involved. My question: How does one replace the screen in this unit? Do I simply open the case and swap out the unit, or do I need to disassemble anything else to get to the screen? I don't want to order the part and then end up in a situation like this. Is the case screwed shut, or is it like an iPod where they glue things closed? I know enough about my abilities with a soldering gun to not attempt to solder tiny wires, would any of that be involved?

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  • Notebook display problem (multiplication)

    - by SubniC
    Hi, I'm having some troubles with the display of a LG E500 notebook. The thing is that without any known reason the display starts to show the screen divided in eigth parts and each part show the display image as if I had a matrix of eigth displays :) I thought it could be some kind of refresh rate problem or driver related, but it is happening at boot-up as well and the BIOS. I got the computer completely unassambled yesterday and I check all the wires and connectors looking for something broken or unconected, but without luck... You can see a picture here of the problem (sorry for the low quality, but I think it illustrate the problem. EDIT 1: I uploaded a new pictrue, here you cans ee the problem better :) There are three horizontal lines that you can see just between the windows. You can see the grey line at the first moment you turn on the computer and the after the duplicated screens show up just like if they where arranged over a grid (over the horizontal lines...) I hope it makes any sense. Do you know what could be happening? or can you tell me what would you do? Thank you very much for your help.

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  • Curious enigma of a network cable / connection / quality

    - by Foo Bar
    So, the situation is like this: I'm renting an apartment in a large house and I'm sharing internet with the landlord who lives downstairs. The internet is (in my best guess) optical 20/20Mbit. I don't know how it's all wired in his flat (haven't been there / seen it). Anyway, in my flat comes a cable which seems to be connected directly to the optic to ethernet router (and the password is the default one, so I have access, he he). There was a switch connected to that and to wires that go around the flat, and the wiring is terrible. It's even mixing phone and ethernet, and from what I see some cables are even interconnected!? Anyways, this cable that comes to my flat is very short. I can barely connect my computer on it, but if I do, I seem to get decent speed / performance. Not great, but decent. If, however, I connect switch to it (tried 2 different switches and a wifi switch) it's all blinking but I can't even connect to 192.168.1.1 (the router). DHCP fails, ping is losing 80-100% of replies. So I connected this cable directly to the other cable which goes to my work room, with a connector that has two female jacks and no electronics. Now when I connect my computer in my room, again, the performance is decent. When I connect WRT54GL (with tomato, DHCP disabled) to it and I plug a cable in this WRT and to my computer... the performance is gone. Download seems okay on Speedtest, but upload is .2Mbps and it's connecting forever. So what kind cable troll am I having here? Any ideas?

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