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  • Does anyone use 12.04 with HD 6950?

    - by Midori
    Back when I first tried to switch from Windows to Ubuntu (6-7 months ago) I had several graphics related problems. The VGA was overheating, graphic glitches, video playing issues, slow/choppy window movements etc. After 2-3 reinstalls, hours of playing with different drivers/settings I decided to return to Windows :\ Now I want to give it another shot. But before I start to format, partitioning, backup and other time consuming stuff I wanted to ask if anyone using the 12.04 with HD 6950. Can I utilize the full potential of it, or the drivers are still not good enough? I know that Linux isn't meant to play games in the first place, but the games I playing (SC2, BLC, HoN, DotA 2) are working with wine as far as I know (or aren't?) and I can't find any reason not to switch from Windows if I can utilize the full potential of my config in Ubuntu. So anyone who got experiences with this VGA in Ubuntu please reply. Thanks in advance :)

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  • PC powers off at random times

    - by Timo Huovinen
    Short Version After experiencing some problems with Mobo batteries my PC started to power off at random times, the power off is instant and sudden and does not restart afterwards, need help figuring out the cause. Facts: Powers off when PC is playing games Powers off when PC is idle Powers off when PC is in safe mode Powers off when PC is in BIOS Powers off when PC is booted through a Windows installation USB Replaced the motherboard battery several times Replaced the 650W PSU with a 750W PSU Replaced the RAM Swapped the RAM between slots Re-applied thermal paste to the CPU Checked if the motherboard touches the case Nothing is overclocked PC Specs PC specs: OS: Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 RAM: klingston 1333MHz 4GB stick CPU: AMD Phenom II x4 955 Mobo: Gigabyte 88GMA-UD2H rev 2.2 Motherboard battery: CR2032 3v HDD: 500GB Seagate ST3500418AS ATA Device Graphics: ATI/AMD Radeon HD 6870 Very Long version Around 10 months ago I built a brand new gaming PC. Around 6 months ago it's time setting in windows started resetting to the year 2010. I swapped the Motherboard battery for a new one of the exact same size and shape and voltage, and the problems disappeared...for around 2 weeks. Then the same problem happened again, time gets reset, I swapped the battery again, and the problem was gone for good and everything was great for about 3 months.. then another problem started happening, the PC started to power off suddenly and without warning at completely random times, sometimes the PC works for and hour, sometimes 5 minutes. So I read on the forums that it might be either the PSU or the motherboard Battery or RAM or HDD or the Graphics card or the CPU or the motherboard or the drivers or a Virus or Grounding issues, or something short circuiting, basically it can be anything... I spent some days researching, and decided to remove the possibility of a virus. I reset the CMOS, cleared all BIOS settings and reinstalled windows 7 after a full format of the HDD, but the random power off kept happening. I then disabled the restart on error option in windows and looked at the event log for error events, but they did not help me figure out the problem. Network list service depends on network location awareness the dependency group failed to start Source Kernel Power Event 41 Task Category 63 Source Disk Event ID 11 Task Category None The driver detected a controller error on device disk I took apart the PC, every little piece, re-applied some expensive thermal paste to the CPU, and double checked that none of the pieces are touching the PC case. The problem was gone, the PC no longer powered off randomly I re-attached the graphics card and all was good for 4 months... then the power off problem appeared again, but was happening at high intervals, the PC would shutdown once in 2 days on average, at random points in time, sometimes when it's idle all day long, sometimes when it's running CRYSIS 2. I checked the CPU temperature, because I know that AMD CPU's have a built in protection mechanism that switches off the PC if the CPU gets too hot, and the Temp was 50C system temp, and 45C CPU after running the PC all day long (I did not do tests to see if there are any temperature spikes, don't know how to do them) Originally the PSU that powered the PC was 650Watts and had one 4 pin cable to power the CPU, I replaced it with a new 750Watts PSU which has two 4 pin cables for the CPU, but the problem remained. I removed the graphics card and let the motherboard use the built in one, but the PC kept suddenly powering off at random times. I took apart the PC completely again, and re-applied thermal paste to the CPU, added lots of insulation, and checked for any type of short-circuit possibility again and again, but the problem remained. The problem was like that for some months. I replaced the Battery a couple of times over the time, changed lots of options in windows, and tried everything I could, but it kept powering off, so I stopped using the PC as much as I used to, just living with the random power offs from time to time, until a couple of days ago, when the power off happens almost immediately after powering on the PC. I replaced the RAM with a brand new one, but that did not help. Took apart the PC again, checked for anything anywhere that might cause it, found some small scratches on the very edge of the motherboard to the left of the PCI express x16 slot. This might cause the problem, I thought, but the scratch looks very superficial, not deep at all, and if the scratch did harm the motherboard, wouldn't it cause it to not start at all? And why did it start to power off a while ago, and then suddenly stop powering off? The scratches could not have vanished??? did chkdsk \d but it powered off when it was at 75% I removed the hard disks, the graphics card, while I fiddled with the BIOS settings, and suddenly the PC shut down while I was looking at the BIOS version. This makes me realize, it is not caused by: HDD, Windows, Drivers or the Graphics card I cleared the CMOS again, updated the BIOS from F5 to F6f beta, but that did not help, it might even seem that the PC powers off even sooner. The shutdown even happened to me while I booted through a windows 7 installation USB and was in the repair console. I removed one of the cables powering the CPU, now only one 4pin cable powers it, and it worked for 30mins after doing that, which makes me think that it's the CPU overheating, and because it gets less power, it overheats slower? The things that I am still considering: CPU overheating (does not seem to overheat, maybe false readings?) Motherboard short circuiting (faulty motherboard?) I desperately need some advice in what is faulty, is it a faulty Motherboard or an overheating CPU? or maybe something else? I have been breaking my head over this problem over a span of 6 months. I'm not sure if this is a good place to ask this question, if it is not, then tell me where I can get some experienced help. More info I have also discovered a mysterious piece that seems to have fallen out of the motherboard i119.photobucket.com/albums/o126/yurikolovsky/strangepiece.jpg What is it? Looks like each time that it powers off the datetime gets reset I also found another forum post tomshardware.co.uk/forum/… except I don't have Integrated PeripheralsUSB Keyboard Function option in BIOS :S Comments summary (asked by Random moderator) Q. tell me, if the computer restarts, is it immediately? Does it take a second and then restarts? Do you see (BSOD) or hear (PSU, short circuit) any suspicious when it happens? After reading trough it, it remains the mainboard that is faulty. – JohannesM A. Immediate power off, all the fans stop instantly, all the light turn off instantly, no sound or anything, and it remains off until I turn it back on. Thanks for the feedback, faulty motherboard is what I fear. Q. Try stress-testing the system with Prime95 and see if errors or shutdowns occur when the CPU is under full load. – speakr A. Prime95 heat stress test peaked CPU heat at 60C after 5mins, it powered off after 30mins of testing in the middle of the test with no errors, Prime95 Heat test or the stress-testing with low RAM usage (small or in-place FFTs) do not report errors while testing for 10-60 mins. The power off does not seem like it is affected by Prime95 at all Makes me wonder if it's a CPU or Motherboard issue at all. Q. I had similar random/intermittent problems with my old board. It gave one of a few different symptoms: keyboard and/or mouse would die and/or the RAM wouldn't work and/or it would shut down. It was in bad shape. One problems was that my old PSU had literally burned the connector on it (browned around the pins), another was that a broken lead inside the layers of the PCB would work sometimes if it happened to be hot or if I bent the board—by jamming a hunk of wood behind it. I managed to keep the board alive for several years, but eventually nothing I did would make it work correctly anymore. – Synetech A. I will try that as the last resort, ok? ;) Q. Have you tried a different power cord, surge protector, outlet (on a different circuit). It's worth a shot just to ensure it's not subpar wiring or a week circuit (dips in power may cause shutdown if the PSU can't pull enough juice from the wall). – Kyle A. yes, I attached the PC to an entirely different outlet on a different circuit and the problem persists. After connecting it to a different outlet after starting the PC it gave me 3 long beeps and 1 short one, then the PC immediately proceeded to boot up normally. Q. Re-check your mainboard manual and all PSU connections to your mainboard to be sure that nothing is missing (e.g. 12V ATX 4-pin/6-pin connector). If you can provoke shutdowns with Prime95, then consider buying new hardware -- a stable system should run Prime95 for 24h without any errors. Prime95 mentions errors in the log when they occur and gives a summary after the stress test was stopped manually (e.g. "0 errors, 0 warnings", if all is fine) – speakr A. Re-checked, there are no more PSU connectors that I can physically connect, except the one ATX 4-pin (there are 2 that power the CPU) that I disconnected on purpose, I have reconnected it but the problem persists. Q. With one PC I had a short curcuit. The power button on the front plate had its cables soldered, but not isolated, and the contacts were very close to the metal case. A heavier touch was enough to cause a shutdown. The PC's vibration could be enough – ott-- A. yes, it seems to switch off with even the lightest touch, I switched on the PC, then pulled out the front panel power cable that connects to the motherboard so the power button does not work anymore, after 5 mins of working like that, with the power button completely disconnected, just sitting idle, the PC powered off again, I don't think it's the power button. Q. I wonder if you dare to operate components without the case, that is remove motherboard, power, disk ( just put the motherboard on a wooden desk). Don't bend the adapters when running like that. – ott-- A. yes, I do dare to do that, but only tomorrow, too tired/late right now.

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  • Gaming blew fuse and causes funny smell: how to overcome?

    - by George Tomlinson
    I've been gaming for a while now. When playing certain games this PC goes into overdrive. The fan/fans start/s to sound like a jet engine it/they get/s so busy. Also I have smelt burning when this has happened. The fuse blew on the 4 socket adapter I was using recently. On the following thread someone said this could be due to the PSU not being strong enough to handle the load, in what it seems could be a related issue someone had, although the person who posted this question did say that blowing a fan on their PC stopped it crashing in that case: http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answers/id-2047543/gtx-650-overheating-issue.html. This is exactly what they said: Your GPU isn't overheating. 70+ before it would shutdown and cause a restart. Make sure your PSU is strong enough to handle your new system at load and possibly run Memtest to check your RAM (although not BSOD'ing and just shutting down points to the PSU). This (the PSU part) makes more sense to me than it being to do with dust etc, since it seems a more plausible explanation of why the fuse blew. The PC has no problems except when playing certain games: i.e. TERA Rising and WoW with add-ons (I think WoW is ok as long as I don't have more than 1 add-on (Healers Have To Die)). I'm just wondering if anyone knows or can suggest what I might be able to do to be able to play these games without this problem occurring. The PC's spec is this: Display: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 650 8GB RAM (6 available) Processor: AMD FX (tm) - 8120 Eight-Core Processor - 3.1 GHz, 4 Cores, 8 Logical Processors I have read on another post that forcing vsync in the Nvidia Control Panel helped with what seems could be a similar problem, so I plan to see if that solves it, God permitting. EDIT: I tried the Vsync thing, and it seems the situation may have improved, although this may be due to something else: i.e. maybe the PC was working harder yesterday, due to just having downloaded a few things or lots of things running. I'm still noticing the funny smell when playing TERA. It's not so much burning: it's more like glue. The smell might have had a burning element to it in the past, but I think it's always had a glue element. EDIT 2: the PSU is an 'ATX Switching Power Supply', Model E-500ATX. Other info it gives on the PSU is 230V, Current 10A and Frequency 50-60Hz. It also has some other info which I can supply if necessary. Putting the PC plug in the wall socket instead of the power strip seems like it might have reduced the load on the PC quite a bit: I think it sounds less stressed. it has been off for a while whilst I took the side panel off though, so I'll wait to see what happens before getting too excited. EDIT 3: hmm. So here's the latest: just playing TERA. The fan's running quite fast again. Hard to tell whether switching to the wall socket has made a difference in terms of strain on the PC: I don't know if one would expect it to. Still seems like it might have helped though. Oh and there didn't seem to be much dust in the PC, although I didn't disconnect any components. I'm still getting the glue type smell. ASIDE: reminds me of someone on a PC near me at the library once who was actually sniffing glue right there in front of everyone while on the PC and he started talking about how he was sniffing glue. lol. That's no joke. EDIT 4: So the questions now are: Question 1: Is the smell something I should sort out? (If so, how might I do this?) Question 2: is it necessary to take any steps to prevent blowing another fuse (and if so which step/s?).

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  • Late 2008 Unibody MacBook Pro, Snow Leopard EFI 1.8 downgrade

    - by SiLo
    Question: Does anyone know of an EFI downgrade for user on 1.8? I have found a 1.7 to 1.6 downgrade, but once on 1.8 this downgrade no longer works. Background: After upgrading to Snow Leopard, and installing the EFI 1.8 update (as recommended by Software Update), I have lost the ability to burn discs. This also includes when using external burners and when booting into Vista using Bootcamp. Other seemingly related problems to the EFI I have are, chronic overheating, random temporary beachball lockups, longer boot times. These 'other' problems have been solved for other users who experienced these problems on EFI 1.7, but were able to rollback to 1.6. I am looking for a solution that does not require sending my computer back to Apple.

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  • What are good values for PSU voltages?

    - by earlz
    Hello, I have an odd computer I'm trying to fix that will crash only during the setup of an OS(crashes on every OS I've tried so far) It's not overheating and it is stripped down as much as possible and I've tried multiple harddrives, and memtest86+ can run on it for 3 hours without a crash or fail. So, I was a bit stumped and was looking in the BIOS for possible causes and found a hardware monitor that shows PSU voltages. They are: VCORE: 1.432V 3.3V: 3.136V 5V: 5.273 12V: 12.144V I thought the 3.3V looked a little low, but I'm not really sure on how "bad" that is. So, what are the good ranges for the voltages on each CPU rail?

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  • Run a pc on battery for 3 days?

    - by Zen 8000k
    I am looking for a low power, low end pc able to run 24/7 without overheating and a way to support it in case of power failure. Power failures can be up to 72 hours. The pc dosen't need a monitor or keyboard. A modem must also be protected in case of power failure. When i say low end, i don't mean crap. The cpu needs to be x86 and have at least 1k cpu in this chart: http://www.cpubenchmark.net/index.php What's the best way to do this?

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  • PSU requirement question for my PC setup.

    - by user69474
    I understand that sometimes there may be a situation where the PSU is way more than required but in this case of mine, I'm not too sure. Sometimes when I play games, my computer will crash and restarts itself, 10 mins into the game. Once I received a message that says something like the power is overheating or something like that. Ok, so I have a 500W PSU. I have: 1x Internal DVD writer 1x SATA 250GB HD 1x Nvidia 8500 GT 2GB RAM. As I'm planning to get an additional 250GB SATA HD, I wonder if I need to increase my PSU as well -- in full knowledge of the previous crashes experienced before. Should I upgrade my PSU to 650W perhaps, or is that excessive?

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  • Intel Core i7-4960HQ vs. 4850HQ (Haswell) [on hold]

    - by Timothy R. Butler
    I'm looking at the new MacBook Pros and trying to decide between the Core i7-4960HQ (2.6 GHz) and i7-4850 (2.3 GHz). I've found some synthetic benchmarks comparing them, but I haven't found a lot of data, so I'd appreciate any pointers to good comparisons for the Haswell family (especially these two processors). My cursory analysis seems to suggest there isn't a huge gain from the extra 300 MHz. I'd like to determine not only whether this is generally true, but also to figure out if the gains that are made in performance come at too high of cost. Is the 2.6 going to be pushing the limits of what can fit in a thin laptop without overheating? I've looked at some of Intel's documentation, but have not been able to determine what the normal and maximum operating temperature differences are for the models. In the past, there have been times that Intel's fastest models in a given range ran especially hot and/or consumed significantly more power compared to slightly slower models. Do those concerns factor into the current generation?

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  • Ubuntu: Take actions when system temperature gets too high

    - by Josh
    One of the CPU fans on my Compaq Presario laptop running Ubuntu 9.10 seems to have bit the dust. The fan is deep within the case and I intend to replace the laptop in the next 6 months so it's not worth replacing it. I have the laptop on a cooling pad and most of the time the system is fine, CPU temps around 90°-110°F. Occasionally, however, I'm seeing random lockups which I believe is due to the system overheating. How can I configure the system to: Lower the CPU speed when the temperature reaches a certain level? (I.E. 110°F) Shutdown the system when the tempature reaches a critical level? (And what would that be? 130°?)

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  • If a managed network switch were to overheat, would you consider it no longer reliable?

    - by Scott Szretter
    Here is the scenario - I have a network switch, one of several in a stack. It's fan failed. Soon, there were reports of users with network issues. After quickly replacing the fan, the users were fine, network issues were resolved. I assume the unit was overheating, and thus failing somehow. Today someone suggested to me, that I should not assume the unit is 100% reliable anymore. So what do you think, would an overheat condition (less than 1 day with the fan stopped) potentially cause permanent damage that could at some point come to the surface as future network failures/issues? If it matters, we are talking managed switches such as 3Com/HP SuperStack , ProCurve or PWR-Plus.

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  • Computer randomly shuts down with a fading alarm power button and CD drive

    - by Shad
    I am currently experiencing something very very odd. Having build my PC myself, I have never had any issues (or anything heat related). A few moments ago my computer shut down very randomly and everything goes blank, when I looked down on my case's power button it was fading on and off in such way I've had never seen before. I noticed the CD drive all of a sudden also started blinking randomly. What do you guys think this problem is related to? It is definitely not a overheating issue and I am pretty sure my 600 watt power supply didn't blow because right now I am able to turn it on and boot up the PC but 20 seconds later it shuts down (sometimes doesn't shut down for 2 minutes). I have no idea what this is... My specs are (built by myself): i5 3570k (unoverclocked) GTX 560ti Asrock Z77 Pro4-M motherboard 8GB Vengeance RAM 600W Corsair power supply 500GB of Seagate HD Case: Corsair Carbide 300R

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  • bad ram or bad motherboard

    - by user39508
    I have a computer which crashes after about 5-45 seconds of operation. It can run memtest86+, and it doesn't display any errors, but it doesn't prevent it from crashing within the time frame listed above. The heat sink appears to be installed correctly, and I don't think it is related to overheating. The motherboard is connected to the ram and a monitor, nothing else is installed. The processor is an atom 330, running memtest86+ 4.0. Any insight into if the ram is bad or if it is the motherboard/psu/cpu? Thanks!

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  • Ubuntu: Take actions when system temperature gets too high

    - by Josh
    One of the CPU fans on my Compaq Presario laptop running Ubuntu 9.10 seems to have bit the dust. The fan is deep within the case and I intend to replace the laptop in the next 6 months so it's not worth replacing it. I have the laptop on a cooling pad and most of the time the system is fine, CPU temps around 90°-110°F. Occasionally, however, I'm seeing random lockups which I believe is due to the system overheating. How can I configure the system to: Lower the CPU speed when the temperature reaches a certain level? (I.E. 110°F) Shutdown the system when the tempature reaches a critical level? (And what would that be? 130°?)

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  • Windows 7 Green Load Bar Stuck and never finish loading,

    - by Levan
    Here is my issues, which i am currently having, in my windows 7, When i go to one specific folder, .Please take a look, This is not my file, but just to get an idea, there is 10 file max no more than 500 MB, i am not able to remove it, or cut it, or move it, it starts that green bar loading and never finish, The problem is, after getting into this folder, my SONY VAIO starts, overheating and if i did not restart, nothing can stop it to be cool down . I have reinstalled windows 2 weeks ago, i don't think this should be issue regarding it. Please, help me what the hell i should do with this GREEN BAR< to stop this headache,

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  • Saving each layer of a Photoshop image to separate files

    - by BadKnees
    I have a PSD file with all icons in separate layers as vectors. I would like to save them in different sizes to use in iPhone, iPhone4 and iPad. I tried Files Scripts Export Layers to Files That took about 15 minutes to save each layer while the computer was overheating from the work. Tried with two different computers, one with CS4 and the other with CS5. Same result. And that doesn't allow me to set sizes. Seem like most icon packs, like pictos, glyphish and iconsweets are distributed in this way, in one PSD file. Is some easy way to get them out of the PSD and into PNG files?

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  • Laptop won't load an OS or even an OS setup.

    - by Talasan Nicholson
    My fiancé's laptop started to crash and would get BSOD errors to the point that she couldn't even boot up because it would either take forever or just crash. So I figured I'd try to reformat, as it's done this before and this was the solution last time. On Windows 7, it will not go passed the "Setup is starting..." screen. On Windows XP, it crashes once the setup is about to start (BSOD). I shut it down and let it sit for 5+ hours, in case it was overheating, but it's doing the same thing anyway. By now, I figure it's something to do with the hardware but I hope not. Any ideas?

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  • PC reboots regularly

    - by Bob
    Windows XP RAID 5 drives Intel Dual Core processor 2 GB Ram I am running a processor temperature monitor. It does not appear to be overheating. I do not have virus. The PC freezes and reboots. I do not think it is software related, because it will reboot if it is doing nothing. Could it be the power supply? Might i need to replace it? How do I diagnose this? Is this the kind of question that is appropriate here? I am not sure.

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  • Steps to install solely ubuntu 13.04 on Dell inspiron 14z ultrabook with SSD+HDD

    - by rishy
    I have tried a few things like disabling the Intel smart response, choosing AHCI in BIOS. But there are certain problems I am still facing. I can't see my SSD during the installation of ubuntu (I am planning to install Ubuntu on my SSD and other files on HDD). When I run Ubuntu my laptop gets overheated and battery backup reduces to 90 minutes. (I guess it's related to my graphic driver ATI Raedon HD 7570). Cooling fan seems to run at its fullest, it was working much better in windows. So, overall I wanted to know what are the exact steps I need to follow to install Ubuntu on my SSD and then use my HDD to keep other files, How can I get rid of overheating and battery backup problem?

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  • Can a processor upgrade cause BSOD?

    - by Daniel
    I Had the following hardware setup: Phenom II X4 945 Asus M4A97 4GB DDR2 OCZ Radeon HD5850 OCZ Agility 2 120 GB Windows 7 x64 Pro Fully updated (latest drivers and windows update patches) Then I bought an used Phenom II X6 1090T and installed it without formatting. Since that my computer started BSODing almost every time I'm playing any game and with different error messages, like: page fault in non-paged area bad pool header the video memory manager found a problem error in dxgmm1.sys(or something like that) And when it doesn't BSOD the game simply crashes. I have tried: Updating BIOS Reseting BIOS to defaults Reinstalling Video Drivers Installing the latest DirectX All that's left is to do a full format and I don't want to do that since it's going to be a lot of work to fine tune windows to my preferences again. So is my "new" processor defective or do I really need to format the computer? Update: I use a (properly installed) custom cooler from Coolermaster and both the BIOS and the Open Hardware Monitor(Application) attest the CPU is not overheating, so I guess the CPU its defective and since I bought it from a guy over the Internet I'm probably screwed

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  • HDDs randomly falling off raid

    - by michael
    I really need help on this it's Saturday long weekend.No customer service help:( .I recently build new server/light duty desktop.Main purpose is only file sharing.Raid configuration :Adaptec 6805 ,8x 3TB HDD WD Red,Intel RES2SV240 expander,Raid 6,set in Intel mobo DZ 77GA-70K.I upgraded firmwares, but I'm having strange problem. During Build Verify segment 7 got missing.I just reinsert drive into hot swap bay and it started to rebuild Array.After rebuild was done another segments 0 and 5 gone missing while build/verify.I reinserted drives and now I'm praying that raid is going to rebuild successfully from remaining 6 drives,because i already transfer some data on it(I know it was bad idea).I checked S.M.A.R.T on missing drives , it only says link failure and aborted commands on one of them.No Errors on HDDs.Connections and cables are good.I added 2 fans blowing on RAID controller because it was getting too hot, so I guess overheating shouldn't be issue.What can be possibly wrong? Thank you for help.

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  • My laptop keeps hard resetting

    - by cgoddard
    I have had this laptop for a long time (five years at least) and it hasn't had the best treatment over the years. But over the last few months, it has been randomly completely shutting down, no blue screening, no steady shutdown, just black screen, then BIOS. I think it might be happening as I do a save, but cant be sure, but recently it has been getting very annoying. I did initially think it was an overheating issue, but the speed that it comes back online is staggeringly fast for it to have cooled down sufficiently. plus it has got incredibly hot before with no issue (since its been doing this). Does anyone know what might be going on? Dell Inspiron 640m, running Windows 7.

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  • How to recover data from a failing hard drive?

    - by intuited
    An external 3½" HDD seems to be in danger of failing — it's making ticking sounds when idle. I've acquired a replacement drive, and want to know the best strategy to get the data off of the dubious drive with the best chance of saving as much as possible. There are some directories that are more important than others. However, I'm guessing that picking and choosing directories is going to reduce my chances of saving the whole thing. I would also have to mount it, dump a file listing, and then unmount it in order to be able to effectively prioritize directories. Adding in the fact that it's time-consuming to do this, I'm leaning away from this approach. I've considered just using dd, but I'm not sure how it would handle read errors or other problems that might prevent only certain parts of the data from being rescued, or which could be overcome with some retries, but not so many that they endanger other parts of the drive from being saved. I guess ideally it would do a single pass to get as much as possible and then go back to retry anything that was missed due to errors. Is it possible that copying more slowly — e.g. pausing every x MB/GB — would be better than just running the operation full tilt, for example to avoid any overheating issues? For the "where is your backup" crowd: this actually is my backup drive, but it also contains some non-critical and bulky stuff, like music, that aren't backups, i.e. aren't backed up. The drive has not exhibited any clear signs of failure other than this somewhat ominous sound. I did have to fsck a few errors recently — orphaned inodes, incorrect free blocks/inodes counts, inode bitmap differences, zero dtime on deleted inodes; about 20 errors in all. The filesystem of the partition is ext3.

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  • Downclock CPU reaching critical temperature

    - by Draga
    I have an HP tx1250 laptop. It always had serious overheating problems and although usually it runs fine I'm now running a continuous test for my dissertation, this brings the CPU temp close to the critical and from time to time the computer shutdown for reaching it (checked the log). I use to have the same problem on Win XP but I noticed Win Vista and 7 downclock the CPU when is necessary to cool it down so I was thinking if the same is possible on Ubuntu 12. The only program I've found that may do the job is computer temp ( http://computertemp.berlios.de/ ) but it doesn't seems to work under Ubuntu 12. The inside of the laptop is fairly clean, the thermal paste is quite recent, I'm keeping it lifted from the desk and judjung by the sound of the fan that's running fine as well. The pc in now running between 78 and 91 degrees C but about once a day it shut down for reaching 95. I need the results of the test it's running pretty soon so it's important that it runs non-stop. I've though to set the maximum clock of the CPU to slightly less the maximum but then these tests I'm running would take much more time. Thanks! PS: first and last HP laptop for me.

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  • Why are my hard drives failing?

    - by WishCow
    I have a small Ubuntu server running at home, with 2 HDDs. There are two software raids (raid1) on the disks, managed by mdadm, which I believe is irrelevant, but mentioning it anyway. Both of the HDDs are Western Digital, and have been used for around 2 years, when one of them started making clicking noises, and died. I figured that maybe it's natural after 2 years, so I bought a new one, and resynced the raid arrays. After about a month, the other drive also died. I didn't get suspicious, since both drives have been bought at the same time, it's not that surprising to see both of them near each other, so I bought another one. So far, 2 old drives failed, and 2 brand new in the system. After one month, one of the new drives died. This is when it started getting suspicious. Since the PC was put together from some really old parts (think AthlonXP), I figured that maybe the motherboard's SATA controller is the culprit. Of course you can't switch parts easily in an old PC like this, so I bought a whole system, new MB, new CPU, new RAM. Took the just failed drive back, since it was under warranty, and got it replaced. So it is up to 2 failed drives from the old ones, and 1 failed drive from the new ones. No problems, for 1 month. After that errors were creeping up again in /var/log/messages, and mdadm was reporting raid array failures. I started tearing my hair out. Everything is new in the system, it's up to the third brand new HDD, it's simply not possible that all of the new drives that I bought were faulty. Let's see what is still common... the cables. Okay, long shot, let's replace the SATA cables. Take HDD back, smile to the guy at the counter and say that I'm really unlucky. He replaces the HDD. I come home, one month passes and one of HDDs fails, again. I'm not joking. Two of the brand new HDDs have failed. Maybe it's a bug in the OS. Let's see what the manufacturer's testing tool says. Download testing tool, burn it to a CD, reboot, leave HDD testing overnight. Test says that the drive is faulty, and I should back up everything, if I still can. I don't know what's happening, but it does not look like a software problem, something is definitely thrashing the HDDs. I should mention now, that the whole system is in a shoebox. Since there are a load of "build your own ikea case" stuff, I thought there shouldn't be any problems throwing the thing in a box, and stuffing it away somewhere. The box is well ventilated, but I thought that just maybe the drives were overheating. There is no other possible answer to this. So I took the HDD back, and got it replaced (for the 3rd time), and bought HDD coolers. And just now, I have heard the sound of doom. click click whizzzzzzzzz. SSH into the box: You have new mail! mail r 1 DegradedArrayEvent on /dev/md0 ... dmesg output: [47128.000051] ata3: lost interrupt (Status 0x50) [47128.000097] end_request: I/O error, dev sda, sector 58588863 [47128.000134] md: super_written gets error=-5, uptodate=0 [48043.976054] ata3: lost interrupt (Status 0x50) [48043.976086] ata3.00: exception Emask 0x0 SAct 0x0 SErr 0x0 action 0x6 frozen [48043.976132] ata3.00: cmd c8/00:18:bf:40:52/00:00:00:00:00/e1 tag 0 dma 12288 in [48043.976135] res 40/00:00:00:4f:c2/00:00:00:00:00/00 Emask 0x4 (timeout) [48043.976208] ata3.00: status: { DRDY } [48043.976241] ata3: soft resetting link [48044.148446] ata3.00: configured for UDMA/133 [48044.148457] ata3.00: device reported invalid CHS sector 0 [48044.148477] ata3: EH complete Recap: No possibility of overheating 6 drives have failed, 4 of those have been brand new. I'm not sure now that the original two have been faulty, or suffered the same thing that the new ones. There is nothing common in the system, apart from the OS which is Ubuntu Karmic now (started with Jaunty). New MB, new CPU, new RAM, new SATA cables. No, the little holes on the HDD are not covered I'm crying. Really. I don't have the face to return to the store now, it's not possible for 4 drives to fail under 4 months. A few ideas that I have been thinking: Is it possible that I fuck up something when I partition and resync the drives? Can it be so bad that it physicaly wrecks the drive? (since the vendor supplied tool says that the drive is damaged) I do the partitoning with fdisk, and use the same block size for the raid1 partitions (I check the exact block sizes with fdisk -lu) Is it possible that the linux kernel or mdadm, or something is not compatible with this exact brand of HDDs, and thrashes them? Is it possible that it may be the shoebox? Try placing it somewhere else? It's under a shelf now, so humidity is not a problem either. Is it possible that a normal PC case will solve my problem (I'm going to shoot myself then)? I will get a picture tomorrow. Am I just simply cursed? Any help or speculation is greatly appreciated. Edit: The power strip is guarded against overvoltage. Edit2: I have moved inbetween these 4 months, so the possibility of the cause being "dirty" electricity in both places, is very low. Edit3: I have checked the voltages in the BIOS (couldn't borrow a multimeter), and they are all seem correct, the biggest discrepancy is in the 12V, because it's supplying 11.3. Should I be worried about that? Edit4: I put my desktop PC's PSU into the server. The BIOS reported much more accurate voltage readings, and also it has successfully rebuilt the raid1 array, which took some 3-4 hours, so I feel a little positive now. Will get a new PSU tomorrow to test with that. Also, attaching the picture about the box: (disregard the 3rd drive)

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