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  • Multitasking on iOS4 and its stated battery efficiency

    - by eml
    Apple stated that the reason multitasking didn't arrive before iOS4 is because they hadn't figured out how to do it right. Jobs stated at Apple WWDC 2010 that they now do and that they solved the problem of preserving battery performance regarding multitasking. Is iOS4's multitasking "feature" indeed more efficient regarding battery performance compared to Android? Have the Android developers managed to "do it right" too?

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  • cpu fan keeps getting faster after removing battery

    - by super_sonic
    Hi all, I have recently pulled the battery out of the motherboard on an old Acer desktop to reset the bios, but when I put the battery back in after about 3-4 hours, and start it up, the cpu fan just keeps getting faster and faster, like it won't stop at all. Does anyone know of a way to fix this problem? Cheers!

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  • Broadcom bcm4311 rev2 Full disabled on battery

    - by Antonio BG
    Ok this is my problem... My problem begins while ago when I installed ubuntu 10.10. (is the same with 11.04,11.10...) My wireless card is disabled if the power cord is unplugged, and the only way to fix this is rebooting my pc WITH the power cord plugged and if I use lspci command, it doesn't show me the wireless card. is like if I've removed the wireless board from my laptop port. I've searched a lot of solutions for bcmw4311 issues, but none of them fix my problem because when apply one of the fixes, if I unplug the cord, my wireless card it just gone away... I have dual boot on my pc(w7,ubuntu), I've tried with full installation just to see if this is the problem, but not, is the same. On windows all work correctly with and without power cord.. so this is not a hardware problem, is more like a kernel problem. anyway I can use wireless with power cord plugged, but c'mon this is a laptop not a desktop pc XD haha any help is welcome

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  • Dell Latitude D510 Runs From Battery But Not AC Adapter

    - by Jason George
    I have a Dell Latitude D510 that went belly up around two years ago. It will run from the battery, however, the wall adapter will neither power the machine nor charge the battery. Once the battery is dead, the machine is dead. Since it died I've searched repeatedly for solutions. I've tried a new AC adapter and even removed and replaced the DC jack thinking one of the solder joints might be bad. Both to no avail. After two years of searching I finally found the answer today. Since it's such a simple fix and I had such a hard time finding it I wanted to post the info for others (as it is apparently a common issue with the D510). -----SOLUTION----- It seems this is commonly caused by a cracked solder joint at pin 1 on an inductor filter pair (FL2) near the power jack. Pins 1 and 4 are ground and pins 2 and 3 are power. There should be 20V from 1 to 2 and 3. Anything less indicates a cracked joint that is increasing resistance and dropping the supply voltage. Repair simply requires reflowing all four pins with a little added solder for security. Detailed instructions can be found here. Dell Latitude D510 solder problem

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  • Smart Phones Shockingly Energy Efficient; Lead to Decreased Household Power Consumption

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    Given how often our smart phones and tablets spend plugged in and topping off their battery reserves, it’s easy to assume they’re sucking down a lot of power. Analysis shows the lilliputian but powerful devices are surprisingly efficient and may be decreasing our overall power consumption. Courtesy of energy-centric blog Outlier, we’re treated to a look at the power sipping habits of popular smart phones and mobile devices. The simple take away? They use shockingly little electricity over the course of the year–you can charge your new iPhone for a year of regular usage for under a buck. The more complex analysis? The proliferation of tiny and energy efficient devices is displacing heavier energy consumers (large televisions, desktop computers, etc.) and driving a more efficient gadget-to-consumption ratio is many households. Hit up the link below to read the full post. How Much Does It Take to Charge an iPhone [via Mashable] 7 Ways To Free Up Hard Disk Space On Windows HTG Explains: How System Restore Works in Windows HTG Explains: How Antivirus Software Works

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  • How to prevent laptop screen brightness from changing when un/plugging battery power

    - by Nomad
    When I am using my laptop, I continually adjust the screen's brightness based on the lighting conditions in the room (e.g. how much light is coming in from windows, etc.). But if I unplug the laptop or plug it back in, Windows looks at the default brightness setting in the power profile for "on battery" or "plugged in" and changes the brightness accordingly. This is a jarring experience and then I have to hunt down the ideal brightness for my current situation again, rather than getting on with my work. I would like to make it so that plugging or unplugging the battery is not a trigger that adjusts the screen brightness at all. The screen brightness should only change when I adjust it myself. Does anybody know how this might be accomplished?

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  • 13-inch Macbook Pro Battery Not Charging

    - by hkhalidz
    I have a 13 inch Macbook Pro. From last night on, it says 'Battery Not Charging'. The charger's light is always green and if I remove the charger it turns off(means the battery is completely empty). I tried reseting the PRAM and SMC, but not dice. I also tried using different chargers with out any success. The Macbook Pro is from the new generations and is over a year old. The Power Information section indicates 458 for the Power Cycles. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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  • CPU clock scales down so computer is unusable after switching to battery

    - by Ryan
    When I am plugged in my laptop runs great however when I unplug it and I'm on battery power my CPU clock speed scales down pretty much all the way. I know this is happening by monitoring the clock speed. When plugged in it will usually stay between 1000MHz and 3000MHz but when I unplug it it quickly scales down to less than 500MHz and will get as low as 100MHz and it will NEVER scale up at all on battery power. After I plug the power back in it will then begin operating normally in about a minute. I have tried setting the MIN and MAX CPU performance in power options to 100% and have tried messing around with cooling settings which seemed to be a problem with HP laptops. I have a Toshiba Satellite M500-ST6444 running Windows 7. The BIOS is up to date. I have tried two versions.

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  • Prevent runaway threads and ultimately physical overheating and battery drain on Android [migrated]

    - by foampile
    I was wondering if there is a system monitor app that will raise (audible) alerts and offer app closure if it detects runaway threads on Android that cause physical overheating and battery drain. E.g., I just had to turn my phone off because there was a runaway thread that I think was constantly trying to refresh FB where there was very poor connection, so it was going in a virtually endless loop. But I get that with other apps too and not just Facebook. I'd like to actually shut apps down when they're detected. I am not kidding, I nearly burned my fingertips when I touched my phone -- it was on for only 2 hrs and the battery was almost dead. It is because 4G is very poor inside my office building and I checked Facebook walking between my vehicle and the building this AM. After that, the app kept trying to refresh continuously without success and overheating the phone.

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  • Laptop screen turns off on removing power cord

    - by YatharthROCK
    After a recent upgrade to Windows 8.1 Pro from W8, my laptop's screen turns off as soon as you remove the power cord. It turns back on with no issues when you plug the power back in. Keyboard and mouse input is processed while the screen is off. My settings tell the screen to go off after 2 minutes of inactivity on battery. I was having a battery issue from before where my laptop would should down after 5 minutes of running on battery (despite showing 60% left), but I think that's unrelated. Any other info will be provided on request. Can anyone help me figure out what's going on? How can I stop this behaviour?

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  • APC ups es 700 randomly overload

    - by Matteo Mosca
    First of all, I live in Italy, Europe, so keep this in mind for Volt/Watt considerations. Standard voltage in Italian apartments is 220V. In my living room I have 2 APC ups, one being an ES-550 and the other an ES-700 They each have 4 slots for surge protection only, and 4 slots for surge protection + battery backup. Just to give all the information, they both got their battery replaced less than one month ago. The ES-550 works fine, without any problem. On the battery I have connected: Pc Monitor Sony Bravia 46'' 4th slot is empty The ES-700 has the following on battery: Xbox 360 Ps3 (standby when not used) Wii (standby when not used) Netgear 8 port switch (always on) Here's what happens: the ES-700, randomly, but mostly at night when I'm sleeping, goes like "overload", with the constant beep. If I try to shut it off keeping the power button pressed, nothing happens. The only thing that works is unplugging random stuff (sometimes unplugging 1 console works, other times I have to unplug all 4 devices). Every time this happens the problem is "real", meaning the 4 devices become unpowered, so it's not just an "alarm no working properly" problem. While I'm sleeping, of course, the power usage is what described on the list, 2 devices on standy, 1 off and 1 on. Today it happened again while I was playing with my Ps3. I unplugged it, problem went away. I plugged it again, and it kept working fine. I just can't figure out what's the problem. The only additional info I can provide is that this behaviour started after a big power outage last december 26 (a blackout that lasted almost all day) but the "surge protection" part of those UPS should be there for those problems, to leverage peaks when power goes away or gets restored. Another funny thing is, althought it might not be related, for a couple of days after that event the Wii was unable to power on, I thought its power transformer was broken, but then it suddenly started working again. I can be sure it's not the Wii overloading the UPS because the overload happens even if I leave the Wii unplugged. Any suggestion is really appreciated, and I can provide any additional info, if needed, that didn't come to mind right now. Thanks.

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  • Advantages of a 130W vs 90W ac adapter?

    - by David
    I purchased a Lenovo T420S laptop with a 90W/20V AC adapter P/N 42t4426 through my IT department. Subsequently, I ordered a replacement adapter and received a 135W/20V AC adapter P/N 45N0054. The 135W version is about twice as big and heavy as the 90W version. Is there an advantage to the 135W version like faster battery recharging? Are there any negative effects (other than weight), like reduced battery life?

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  • What is it that kills laptop batteries?

    - by Mala
    There are many superstitions on what you must never do lest your battery become worthless - and by worthless I mean hold about 16 - 24 seconds of charge. This has happened to every laptop I have ever owned, and I just got a new one, so please help me sort out fact from fiction. Here are some of the things I've heard: Do not keep your laptop fully charged. You must run it completely down every so often. Do not use your laptop plugged in to the wall. Only plug it in when it needs charge. If you will not be using your laptop for a long period of time, don't leave it at full charge. Do not leave your laptop running 24/7. The first two I know to be complete fiction: this was true of old batteries such as you might have had in an iPod in 2003, but modern batteries function better when kept at or near full charge. Devices even have circuitry to prevent you from completely depleting your battery, as this is dangerous. The third point sounds probable, and I'd be interested to know if it was true. However, it doesn't really apply to me because I'm not really the type to leave my laptop alone for a day, much less a "long period of time" The fourth seems most likely of the above, but only because of causality: I have always done this, and my batteries have always crapped out on me. I've generally treated a laptop like a desktop with a battery backup, and that I can move from one room to another if necessary. The fact that my batteries tend to last less than 30 seconds has further entrenched this behavior. Should I be trying to break this habit? Are there any other things that ruin laptop batteries? I love that I can actually use my new laptop unplugged :) I'd like to keep it that way. Update: Additional question: If the computer will be used for an extended period of time plugged in, does it make sense to remove the battery first? Update 2: I know people with laptops older than mine, who actively use their laptops as much as I do, and their batteries still hold about an hours' charge while mine holds less than 30 seconds, hence my belief that something I'm doing kills them.

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