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  • Network Server Cabinets - How does the ventilation work?

    - by Nicholas
    Recently I've been looking at a range of network server cabinets with a mesh door at the rear. At the top of the cabinet are ceiling mounted fans with dust filters attached. These fans suck air out of the cabinet - presumably to remove the hot air that has risen to the top. My question is why do these fans have dust filters? What point do they serve? If the air flow is pulled in by these fans through the mesh door, then surely they are not there to protect the hardware inside from dust? Also, there are other minor grilled gaps around the enclosure, how does this kind of ventilation design work?

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  • Cooling Server Closet - No A/C Is Possible

    - by JamesCo
    We're moving into a new office in an old building in London (that's England :) and are walling off a 2m x 1.3m area where the router & telephone equipment currently terminates to use as a server closet. The closet will contain: 2 24-port switches 1 router 1 VSDL modem 1 Dell desktop 1 4-bay NAS 1 HP micro-server 1 UPS Miscellaneous minor telephony boxes. There is no central A/C in the office and there never will be. We can install ducting to the outside quite easily - it's only a couple of metres to the windows, which face a courtyard. My question is whether installing an extractor fan with ducting to the window should be sufficient for cooling? Would an intake fan and intake duct (from the window, too) be required? We don't want to leave a gap in the closet door as that'll let noise out into the office. If we don't have to put a portable A/C unit into the closet, that'd be perfect. The office has about 12 people; London is temperate, average maximum in August is 31 Celsius, 25 Celsius is more typical. The same equipment runs fine in our current office (same building as new office, also no A/C) but it isn't in an enclosed space. I can see us putting say one Dell 2950 tower server into the closet, but no more than that. So, sustained power consumption in the closet would currently be about 800w (I'm guessing); possibly in the future 2kw. The closet will have a ceiling and no windows and be well-insulated. We don't care if the equipment runs hot, so long as it runs and we don't hear it.

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  • Does overheating cause a computer to slow down?

    - by anonymous coward
    It's a pet peeve of mine that people leave the tower of their desktop computers in the small enclosed cabinet part of computer desks. I've heard that heat issues can cause problems with PCs, but is this realistic? Is leaving the desktop in a cabinet area, or above-average-room-temp, a realistic potential cause of slowdowns? (I'm completely aware that there are other contributing factors to computer 'slowness', just wondering if this is a realistic problem, or mostly mental).

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  • Rack Mounting a Server with hot air vents on the top?

    - by Adam
    We just got a couple of HP DL360 G7's, and I notice it has vents on the top. More hot air seems to exit through these vents than it does anywhere on the back. All our servers in the past have always vented all the hot air through the back. How are these servers with top vents supposed to be mounted? Everyone always says airflow is best by not leaving gaps on the rack, but it seems like a server right on top of it would receive a lot of heat.

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  • Getting weather information (from a thermometer and a hygrometer)

    - by EKS
    I have decided, as a arrogant geek, to build my own home ventilation and heating system, and will try to do this as my little project. I have always been annoyed with the lack of good ventilation systems at work, so I accept building my own is arrogant. Does anyone know about a device I can interact with that allows me to get temperature and humidity that I can interact with using C#? I cannot get it from the Internet because I need to get the humidity from my server "room", so I can control the dehumidifier there. Similar with temperature, outside is not that important. It would be a huge plus if the sensors had some sort of wireless access.

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  • Best technique for reusing a Windows system image across configurations

    - by Martin Wiboe
    We are a small company that provides solutions for ventilation systems. Part of the solution is a "controller" which communicates with the ventilation equipment. These controllers are simply Dell computers that come with our Windows 7 system image on them and sometimes some special hardware. We typically do a batch of 10 controllers at a time. We have been using Norton Ghost to apply the system image, but this process breaks because Dell changes the system configuration often, and our Windows image now does not contain the correct drivers. This is especially a problem when they change the RAID controller. To improve this, I see 2 options: use some kind of virtualization and install a hypervisor on each PC. This would solve the driver problem, but probably cause trouble with our special hardware. use some method of adding the proper drivers to our Windows image in offline mode. I haven't got much experience in either of these approaches. How would you solve our problem?

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  • How to Tell If Your Computer is Overheating and What to Do About It

    - by Chris Hoffman
    Heat is a computer’s enemy. Computers are designed with heat dispersion and ventilation in mind so they don’t overheat. If too much heat builds up, your computer may become unstable or suddenly shut down. The CPU and graphics card produce much more heat when running demanding applications. If there’s a problem with your computer’s cooling system, an excess of heat could even physically damage its components. Is Your Computer Overheating? When using a typical computer in a typical way, you shouldn’t have to worry about overheating at all. However, if you’re encountering system instability issues like abrupt shut downs, blue screens, and freezes — especially while doing something demanding like playing PC games or encoding video — your computer may be overheating. This can happen for several reasons. Your computer’s case may be full of dust, a fan may have failed, something may be blocking your computer’s vents, or you may have a compact laptop that was never designed to run at maximum performance for hours on end. Monitoring Your Computer’s Temperature First, bear in mind that different CPUs and GPUs (graphics cards) have different optimal temperature ranges. Before getting too worried about a temperature, be sure to check your computer’s documentation — or its CPU or graphics card specifications — and ensure you know the temperature ranges your hardware can handle. You can monitor your computer’s temperatures in a variety of different ways. First, you may have a way to monitor temperature that is already built into your system. You can often view temperature values in your computer’s BIOS or UEFI settings screen. This allows you to quickly see your computer’s temperature if Windows freezes or blue screens on you — just boot the computer, enter the BIOS or UEFI screen, and check the temperatures displayed there. Note that not all BIOSes or UEFI screens will display this information, but it is very common. There are also programs that will display your computer’s temperature. Such programs just read the sensors inside your computer and show you the temperature value they report, so there are a wide variety of tools you can use for this, from the simple Speccy system information utility to an advanced tool like SpeedFan. HWMonitor also offer this feature, displaying a wide variety of sensor information. Be sure to look at your CPU and graphics card temperatures. You can also find other temperatures, such as the temperature of your hard drive, but these components will generally only overheat if it becomes extremely hot in the computer’s case. They shouldn’t generate too much heat on their own. If you think your computer may be overheating, don’t just glance as these sensors once and ignore them. Do something demanding with your computer, such as running a CPU burn-in test with Prime 95, playing a PC game, or running a graphical benchmark. Monitor the computer’s temperature while you do this, even checking a few hours later — does any component overheat after you push it hard for a while? Preventing Your Computer From Overheating If your computer is overheating, here are some things you can do about it: Dust Out Your Computer’s Case: Dust accumulates in desktop PC cases and even laptops over time, clogging fans and blocking air flow. This dust can cause ventilation problems, trapping heat and preventing your PC from cooling itself properly. Be sure to clean your computer’s case occasionally to prevent dust build-up. Unfortunately, it’s often more difficult to dust out overheating laptops. Ensure Proper Ventilation: Put the computer in a location where it can properly ventilate itself. If it’s a desktop, don’t push the case up against a wall so that the computer’s vents become blocked or leave it near a radiator or heating vent. If it’s a laptop, be careful to not block its air vents, particularly when doing something demanding. For example, putting a laptop down on a mattress, allowing it to sink in, and leaving it there can lead to overheating — especially if the laptop is doing something demanding and generating heat it can’t get rid of. Check if Fans Are Running: If you’re not sure why your computer started overheating, open its case and check that all the fans are running. It’s possible that a CPU, graphics card, or case fan failed or became unplugged, reducing air flow. Tune Up Heat Sinks: If your CPU is overheating, its heat sink may not be seated correctly or its thermal paste may be old. You may need to remove the heat sink and re-apply new thermal paste before reseating the heat sink properly. This tip applies more to tweakers, overclockers, and people who build their own PCs, especially if they may have made a mistake when originally applying the thermal paste. This is often much more difficult when it comes to laptops, which generally aren’t designed to be user-serviceable. That can lead to trouble if the laptop becomes filled with dust and needs to be cleaned out, especially if the laptop was never designed to be opened by users at all. Consult our guide to diagnosing and fixing an overheating laptop for help with cooling down a hot laptop. Overheating is a definite danger when overclocking your CPU or graphics card. Overclocking will cause your components to run hotter, and the additional heat will cause problems unless you can properly cool your components. If you’ve overclocked your hardware and it has started to overheat — well, throttle back the overclock! Image Credit: Vinni Malek on Flickr     

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  • Determining the required depth and specifications for a server cabinet

    - by Bingu Bingme
    I'm trying to understand the considerations ("why") that go into determining the specifications ("what") for a rackmount server cabinet, in order to determine what sort of rack I should purchase for my home use. Since this is for home use, I won't be following certain best practices (eg. hot/cold aisle, not even air conditioning) and may be willing to sacrifice in various areas in order to reduce cost and footprint - but please advise if there are safety concerns or other considerations to note. The most basic specs for a server cabinet are the dimensions (external width x external depth x usable height). Width: commonly 600mm or 800mm (if the use case requires extra clearance around the sides, such as if there is lots of cabling). In my case and most common cases, I'm going to stick with 600mm. Height: Select a sufficiently tall rack to fit my equipment. But how much may I stuff into it? Eg, if there is a 15U rack, can I really populate it with 15U of servers, or should I leave 1U at top and bottom for air circulation? Depth: Racks commonly have external depth of 600mm (network equipment), 800mm, 1000mm, or even longer. I'm trying to see how to fit into the 800mm depth. With reference to http://www.server-racks.com/rack-mount-depth.html, I'm hoping to have the front and rear posts mounted ~ 28.5" (72cm) apart, which would leave only 8cm for front space and rear space. How much rear space (from rear posts to back of rack) do I really need? I won't use cable management arms, so can I mount a 72cm depth server since the power, KVM, network cables won't take up much depth? My most important equipment are all < 60cm depth (4U chassis) and should comfortably fit within the 800mm cabinet. The rest of the equipment are very old 1U servers that range from 65-72cm depth. I might still want to make further use of them, or I might discard them since they are so old. Even if the 72cm servers cannot be powered on in an 800mm rack, I should be able to use them as 1U shelves. But, what server depth can I expect to be able to operate? Or am I forced to upgrade to 1000mm depth racks in order to use any servers deeper than 60cm? With reference to best practices for HP racks, some other specs and installation considerations: There aren't any minimum recommendations for clearance on the sides of the rack. It is recommended to leave 48" front clearance. The 48" front clearance is based on 32" chassis depth, 13" to extend the rack rails and mate the inner/outer rails, and 3" for movement. If I don't use such rails (eg, use shelves instead), it should be sufficient to leave front clearance of chassis depth + 3". It is recommended to leave 30" rear clearance "to provide space for servicing the rack". I'm planning to back the rack into a corner of the room, and wheel it slightly out when I need to access the rear. If the wheeling plan is ok, I still need to know how much rear clearance is required for air circulation and ventilation purposes. Castor wheels and stabilising feet. Since I'm backing the rack into a corner of the room, I'll only be able to set the stabilising feet on the front corners. Thoughts on safety? The rack that I'm considering has front glass doors with side ventilation slits and fully perforated rear doors. I'm hoping this will be a good balance between temperature and noise (only ventilation slits facing out the front, while the rear is facing the walls). Or is the sound of high-rpm fans going to escape through the front slits anyway and destroy my sanity?

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  • How do I get fan control working?

    - by RobinJ
    I know there something called fancontrol, that enables you to control the speed of your system's ventilation. I'd like to let my fans spin a bit faster as my laptop is heating up very easilly. All tutorials and stuff I've found are for old versions of Ubuntu and don't seem to be working anymore. Can anyone explain to me or give me a good link on how I can get it working on Ubuntu? Something different with the same effect is also fine.

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  • Compact DIY Office-in-a-Cart Packs Away Into a Closet

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    Many geeks know the pain of losing a home office when a new baby comes along, but not many of them go to such lengths to miniaturize their offices like this. With a little ingenuity an entire home office now fits inside a heavily modified IKEA work table. Ian, an IKEAHacker reader and Los Angeles area geek, explains the motivation for the build: I had to surrender my home office to make room for my new baby boy ;) I took an Ikea stainless steel kitchen “work table”, some Ikea computer tower desk trays, two steel tabletops, and two grated steel shelves to make an “office” that I could pack away into a closet. Hit up the link below to check out the full photo set, the build includes quite a few clever design choices like mounted monitors, a ventilation system, and more. Home Office In A Box [IKEAHacker] HTG Explains: How Antivirus Software Works HTG Explains: Why Deleted Files Can Be Recovered and How You Can Prevent It HTG Explains: What Are the Sys Rq, Scroll Lock, and Pause/Break Keys on My Keyboard?

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  • How do I clean a computer from dust?

    - by Jonas
    As computers become faster and generate more heat it gets more important to have good ventilation, but that also increases the amount of dust sticking to the components of the computer. It's of course better to make sure the computer never gets dusty by vacuum cleaning around it (not in it) frequently. But what to do if it's already to late? I've heard that vacuum cleaning the computer itself is very bad, since it can cause static electricity that hurts the computer. So, Does anyone have any tips for how to remove dust from your computer?

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  • How do I clean dust from a computer?

    - by Jonas
    As computers become faster and generate more heat it gets more important to have good ventilation, but that also increases the amount of dust sticking to the components of the computer. It's of course better to make sure the computer never gets dusty by vacuum cleaning around it (not in it) frequently. But what to do if it's already to late? I've heard that vacuum cleaning the computer itself is very bad, since it can cause static electricity that hurts the computer. So, Does anyone have any tips for how to remove dust from your computer?

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  • How do I debug an overheating problem?

    - by Tab
    Hello guys. I have a problem with my Laptop (Dell Inspiron 1564 Core i5 4GB Ram VGA ATI Mobility Radeon HD 4300 running Ubuntu 10.10 32bit). It shuts down abruptly without even a lag in the application I am working with before shutdown. I think it's overheating problem. Actually the laptop is hot all the time when I am running Ubuntu. When I switch back to windows, even with intense load it won't shutdown or show any problem as long as I keep proper ventilation (when the air openings are blocked it does the same). Actually on Ubuntu i don't usually do things that need much CPU power, usually surfing internet, coding web pages and sometimes playing with python and ruby. I am not enabling desktop effects so no GPU load except the normal GNOME gui. Now as I am writing the Processor load in the panel monitor applet is 0%, Memory 11% by programs, 22% by cache. And i have CPU Frequency monitor for each of the 4 cores set to 1.20 Ghz (the lowest possible value, i am not sure if this applet does really limit CPU usage). Running sensors in terminal gave me temp1: +26.8°C (crit = +100.0°C) temp2: +0.0°C (crit = +100.0°C) hddtemp /dev/sda at the terminal gave me /dev/sda: WDC WD3200BEVT-75ZCT2: 46°C All that fine but the laptop is Really hot i can feel it in the keyboard, mouse pad is painful to touch, and the fan is always spinning. I am also placing 2 small fans running on USB under the laptop right now and the laptop is lifted over the fans so it's well ventilated. When I am running windows it doesn't get that hot except when there is a really big load on the CPU and this is keeping me away from using Linux for everyday tasks. Actually I don't care much for speed as I can deal with low speed it's not going to shutdown abruptly. So please if you can help me and tell me what are the possible causes, where should I start ?

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  • HP Pavillion dv6 laptop - 15 beeps on startup and a black screen?

    - by dunc
    Usual story - girlfriend's step-brother's laptop is broken. I don't know a huge amount about what occurred before it broke, but I do know the following: When you try to turn the laptop on, it beeps 15 times exactly. The screen remains black. The LED on the Caps Lock key flashes continuously. If left on, the laptop never boots - as far as I can see. If left on, on a stable surface with decent ventilation for a relatively short period of time, the laptop (below keyboard, but not where the RAM/HDD are) gets very hot. I've tried doing what most websites appear to recommend for similar problems, which is to disconnect AC and battery then hold the power button down for a minute before reconnecting the AC and trying to turn the laptop on - no difference. EDIT I've also tried re-seating the RAM, to no avail. Any ideas? Thanks in advance,

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  • Low CPU performance with low usage and clock - Windows 8.1

    - by Daniele
    I recently deleted everything from my PC and reinstalled Windows 8.1 from scratch. When I first booted into Windows everything was extremely slow though the CPU usage was very low (about 1%). After installing some drivers the problem seemed to be solved, I was able to use my PC normally. Today I installed a game and I noticed a strange behavior: the game was playable but the performance worsened more and more in the time. This is the situation BEFORE opening the game (normal): This is AFTER some minutes inside the game (low CPU usage and clock): Some information about my system: PC: Sony Vaio S13 (SVS13A1C5E) OS: Windows 8.1 CPU: Intel Core i7-3520M 2.90GHz GPU(1): Intel HD Graphics 4000 GPU(2): NVIDIA GeForce GT 640M LE I tried searching for new drivers and other solutions but noting worked and I don't know what is the cause. I did not checked the temperatures but the fans are not running fast and the PC does not look overheated. Update: Max CPU Temp: 66°C, Max GPU Temp: 61°C The strange thing is that the GPU load is 99% (GPU-Z) and the fan is almost silent. Update 2: I had troubles with Sony Vaio software, I can't get the FN keys and the STAMINA/SPEED switch to work (it is a physical switch to enable/disable the Nvidia card and change the Power Profile). I'm saying this because I remember that before reinstalling Windows there was an option in the Vaio Control Center (now it is not there anymore) that allowed me to choose from something like "priority to performance (ventilation)" or "priority to silence". The current behavior looks like a "priority to silence", but I can't get the stamina-speed switch to work and so I don't see similar oprions in the Vaio Control Center. I don't know if the problem is related to this.

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  • Cooling for a small server room

    - by John Zwinck
    I have a server room about 12 feet square with an unfinished ceiling (exposed ducts and wiring). It houses a few servers (about ten, 1U and 2U) and some networking gear (four 1U switches, three routers, three modems, two cable boxes). With the door closed, it runs around 80 degrees Fahrenheit with half the servers turned on. When I turned on all the servers it reached 86 before I chickened out and propped the door open. The room is adjacent to air-conditioned office space, but does not itself have dedicated air conditioning. The ventilation for this room seems to be limited to one duct coming in at ceiling level, with a powered fan to draw air in, and one duct at ceiling level to allow air to flow out (it seems like it may just go into the drop ceiling cavity in the adjacent room). The adjacent office space stays fairly cool, but I'd prefer not to leave the door propped open all the time. There is both 110v and 208v service in the room, and plenty of power available. But there are no windows, and no floor drains (in a pinch we might be able to run a condensation hose through a small hole we'd drill in the wall to a nearby sink area, but only if absolutely necessary). I've considered portable A/C units, but I'm not sure on sizing and a lot less sure how we would run the exhaust hose(s). I suppose we could point one at the existing room exhaust duct (air return), but substantially modifying the duct is probably a no-no. I've also considered installing a fan box in the door of the room, but I'm concerned that this will only drop the temperature a little. Even right now, with all the equipment on, the room is at 83 degrees with the door open. And the main building A/C turns off daily at 6 PM to conserve energy, so the adjacent room temperature rises at night. How would you cool this room? Let's say the goal is to bring the temperature with everything running from a steady state of around 90 degrees down to 75 (equivalently, to offset the heat produced by ten 1U servers).

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  • How do you gracefully upgrade mission critical systems to wildly disparate systems?

    - by Ernie
    In the span of the 12+ years of my career, I have yet to overcome this hurdle and I suspect the answer simply isn't easy or even possible, so I ask everyone here for their experience. Say that you're running into egregious problems that can only be fixed by moving from one platform to another - either from making a mistake in choosing the platform that was chosen years ago, or simply growing beyond what the system was originally designed for. You know for certain that the cruft that has built up over time will invariably mean that it will be nearly impossible to test for all the things that will certainly lead to tech support hell - which we all know leads to the loss of customers. Not that customers aren't already complaining about the egregious problems that already exist! The best possible way that I've discovered so far is to maybe devise a plan for the changeover, test it on a few clients, test it on a dozen clients, test it on a hundred clients, then finally finish the changeover for everyone and pray that you've worked out all the bugs with those first hundred and twenty, and that the animal by-products will not hit the ventilation system in the most spectacular fashion possible. However, that doesn't mean that it won't anyway. So say that you're moving from Exchange to Exim (or even just Sendmail to Exim). How do you handle it?

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  • What are my options in replacing the noisy fan in my Linksys Cisco SRW2008P managed GigE switch?

    - by Fred Sobotka
    My first managed GigE switch, the Linksys SRW2008, was a dream, until it started randomly chattering on various ports. That started while I was on the road all the time, which made it take forever to diagnose, but that's a different problem. When I finally determined that the switch was bad, it was still covered by warranty by Linksys/Cisco, so I opened an RMA ticket and returned it. Unfortunately, Linksys/Cisco "upgraded" my replacement switch to a SRW2008P, which has Power over Ethernet features I never planned on using. That by itself wasn't so bad, but it's my guess that the inclusion of PoE functions in this model required a tiny, super-loud internal fan to keep everything cool. This wasn't something I wanted or asked for, but, now that I am stuck with it, I am investigating options for replacing that little internal fan with something far quieter. For example, if I attach a larger fan to the outsite of the chassis, I think it could push enough air to replace the stock fan that is currently there. Any advice on carrying this out? I have no interest in melting my switch due to insufficient ventilation.

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  • Server specification recommendation

    - by foo
    To cut the story short, I can't buy an item (server/cpu/motherboard/ram) that costs more than USD 330. However, I can combine them, meaning, I can buy a CPU that costs USD 330 and motherboard that costs USD 330. With this limitation, I can't buy a powerful 1U server which will definitely costs me more USD 330. With that in mind, I was hoping to build a powerful desktop PC which will be used as a database server. However, through my experience, desktop PC doesn't last very long, usually the motherboard will just die by itself after 1 or 2 years. So, what would you guys recommend me to buy with this kind of budget? Every item must be <= USD 330. Will be used as a MySQL server. RAID would be nice. 1TB is pretty big for my data. I do not need external graphic card (onboard would do just fine), mouse, keyboard, monitor. Linux friendly. One ethernet port is good enough. It's important that those hardware is made of components that will last long (at least 3 years or something). The server will be placed in an air conditioned room, but a good ventilation for the server is always preferred. I won't overclock it. Intel processor is preferred. Thanks in advance.

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